New to saber building

[MrMcCrunch]

Hi everyone. I'm wanting to build my own saber. These are the parts that I have so far. I have most of the body pieces figured out, I just need help with the electronics.

Hilt Pieces:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHSV1-Blade-Holder-Style-17-P417.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-Extension-Blank-Style-3-P762.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-Style-1-7-Double-female-threaded-connector-P126.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Pommel-style-1-P175.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-6-P569.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machined-button-for-Covertec-clip-P161.aspx

Misc Parts:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Insert-style-1-P262.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/6-32-socket-Head-Cap-Screw--P169.aspx 4x (In case I lose one)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-3-black-thumb-screw-P546.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-14-socket-head-P107.aspx 2x (In case I loose one)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/24-gauge-wire-25-Spool-P737.aspx 2x (One blue one white)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18-Adhesive-lined-heatshrink-tubing-P32.aspx 2'

Electronic Parts:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHSV1-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Latching-Green-Ring-Switch-P429.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/20mA-DynaOhm-Variable-Resistor-P847.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Panasonic-Li-Ion-18650-37V-3400mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-P853.aspx

Services:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Drill-Tap-Hole-P193.aspx 2x (One for the blade holder and one for the covertec button)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Box-2356-Mounting-holes-service-P572.aspx

Service Notes:
This is for the Box Mounting- "Centered at 1.875" from the end of the Hilt Style 1 (7"Double female threaded connector) on the side that will connect to the blade holder." Edited with better instructions.

This is for the Drill & Tap Holes- "First one will be on the blade holder. I would like this to line up with the Box mounting service in this order. The second on will be on the Hilt Style 1 (7" Double female threaded connector). It will be on the opposite side of the hilt than box mounting. This will on the back of the underside of the hilt. So on the 'front' of the saber is the box mounting and the blade holder screw. On the 'back' of the saber is the second drill and tap hole for a covertec button."

What I was needing help with is figuring out what size battery pack I need. How much wire/shrink tube I should get. As well as any resistors I might need. Also I want to know if I need to reword my service notes. I tried to be as descriptive as I could.

Thanks so much,
Nathan


EDIT: Changed a few things based on advice, and added a few things.

[Generic Jedi]

The 1/2" thumb screw, for blade retention, is too long. Try one of the 8-32 x .3" thumb screws. You'll also need a 8-32 x 1/4" socket head screw for the covertec button. What is the other screw for (8-32 x 1/2" button head)?

For the box mounting service, you may want to specify which end, either blade holder end or pommel end. Also, I think the edge of the box has to be at least 0.75" from the end. It should be centered at 1.875" from the end.

How much wire and heatshrink you'll need will depend on your build.
As far as batteries go, the greater the mAh the longer the run time. Use a 3.7 volt battery with resisters, or a 7.4 volt battery with a buckpuck.

[Miraluka]

Deciding which battery pack to use depends on your electronics and how much space you have in your hilt. If you're using a single Rebel, I would just use a single 18650 3400mAh. If you don't need that much run time, you could get a cheaper battery. Your resistor for your blade LED depends on what battery you use and what LED you end up using, but for your AV switch you can just get a dynaohm.
as for wire and heat shrink... It's not expensive and always good to have extra, especially if you're going to build more sabers in the future. If you're just building a stunt, grab 2 colors of wire. I buy the 25' spools because it's easier to manage and I know I'll end up using it all. Then you can grab a few feet of heat shrink. I use 1/16" and 1/8". You will probably use less than 1' of heat shrink but again, nice to have extra.

[obi2kenobi14]

hey how bright would a tri cree with a 3.7 volt battery and 2.7 resistor be? on a scale of 1 to ten.

[MrMcCrunch]

The 1/2" thumb screw, for blade retention, is too long. Try one of the 8-32 x .3" thumb screws. You'll also need a 8-32 x 1/4" socket head screw for the covertec button. What is the other screw for (8-32 x 1/2" button head)?

For the box mounting service, you may want to specify which end, either blade holder end or pommel end. Also, I think the edge of the box has to be at least 0.75" from the end. It should be centered at 1.875" from the end.

How much wire and heatshrink you'll need will depend on your build.
As far as batteries go, the greater the mAh the longer the run time. Use a 3.7 volt battery with resisters, or a 7.4 volt battery with a buckpuck.

I removed that random screw, I have no idea why I had that. I also changed the box mounting notes.


Deciding which battery pack to use depends on your electronics and how much space you have in your hilt. If you're using a single Rebel, I would just use a single 18650 3400mAh. If you don't need that much run time, you could get a cheaper battery. Your resistor for your blade LED depends on what battery you use and what LED you end up using, but for your AV switch you can just get a dynaohm.
as for wire and heat shrink... It's not expensive and always good to have extra, especially if you're going to build more sabers in the future. If you're just building a stunt, grab 2 colors of wire. I buy the 25' spools because it's easier to manage and I know I'll end up using it all. Then you can grab a few feet of heat shrink. I use 1/16" and 1/8". You will probably use less than 1' of heat shrink but again, nice to have extra.

I added some wire and heat shrink. As for the battery, I have no clue as to what kind to use. Should I use a Li-ion battery? Or should I use a battery holder for use with AA or AAA? I really don't need the saber to have an incredibly lengthy run time.

The description for the switch says "There is no internal resistor on these so you need to use the correct resistor in order to not fry the LED. The LED has a forward voltage of 3.3V and runs at 20mA. 4.8V would use a 82ohm 1/4 watt resistor, 6V would use a 150ohm 1/4 watt resistor." And the description for the LED module says "All reds and amber should be ran at 700mA and all other colors should be ran at 1000mA." So for the module it should be run at 1000mA?

I really wish I had payed more attention in science when we went over this stuff. So if I used the 3.7V k3400mAh battery would I need a resistor? Sorry if I seem like I'm being useless. It just will take me time to try and figure this stuff out.

Thanks for both of ya'lls help so far.

[Miraluka]

If it were me, I'd use Li-Ion. I like to use the 3400mAh 18650s but everybody has their preferences. And in general, I like sabers to have good run time if they can.

For the switch, you can use THIS resistor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/20mA-DynaOhm-Variable-Resistor-P847.aspx)

For the module, what color are you using? Green? If you're using green, yeah, 1000mAh (1A).

[MrMcCrunch]

Yes I am using a green color. So if I use this (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Panasonic-Li-Ion-18650-37V-3400mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-P853.aspx) battery, how does one recharge/replace it once it dies? Also I should be good following this (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?326-MHS-LED-kit-tutorial-(Resistor-variant)) tutorial right?

[Generic Jedi]

You can use a recharge port (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switchcraft-21mm-Power-Jack-P822.aspx) to recharge the battery. You'll also need a charger. Find them in the Batteries and Packs section under Li-ion Chargers.

The tutorial will work. And the DynaOhm for your switch LED. The DynaOhm MUST be placed on the positive wire. It's also marked IN and OUT. In is from your battery. Out goes to your switch LED.

Don't forget to put a resistor on your main LED. There is a tutorial on Ohm's law for that somewhere around here.

[MrMcCrunch]

You can use a recharge port (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switchcraft-21mm-Power-Jack-P822.aspx) to recharge the battery. You'll also need a charger. Find them in the Batteries and Packs section under Li-ion Chargers.

The tutorial will work. And the DynaOhm for your switch LED. The DynaOhm MUST be placed on the positive wire. It's also marked IN and OUT. In is from your battery. Out goes to your switch LED.

Don't forget to put a resistor on your main LED. There is a tutorial on Ohm's law for that somewhere around here.

I found [URL="http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17109-Tutorial-FJK-s-quot-Down-and-Dirty-quot-guide-to-Ohm-s-Law"this[/URL] guide on Ohm's Law. When I did the math it confused me.


R <Ohms> = (VfBattery - (VfLED1 + VfLED2)) / I

Where:
Vf Battery = Battery Voltage (usually either 3.7V or 7.4V)
Vf LED1 = Forward Voltage of LED #1
Vf LED2 = Forward Voltage of LED #2 (If you have a second in series)
I = (in Amps) Current you wish to run your LED at (Reds and Red-Oranges are usually 700 mA and Blues, Greens and Whites are usually 1A)

The second part of the formula is as follows:

P <Watts> = R * I^2

Where:
R = the resistance value from the first calculation
I = (in Amps) Current you wish to run your LED at (Reds and Red-Oranges are usually 700 mA and Blues, Greens and Whites are usually 1A) - This value needs to be squared in your calculation.

So for the first calculation "R = (VfBattery - (VfLED1 + VfLED2)) / I" I need to use the forward voltage for the switch and the LED right? if so: R = (3.7 - (3.3 + 2.75)) / 1 = -2.35 that doesn't seem right. But if I don't include the switch: R = (3.7 - (2.75)) / 1 = .95 = 1 Ohm then P = .95 * 1^2 = .95

So that would be a 1 ohm 1 w resistor? I don't feel like any of that is right. Also the only guide I could find on how to wire a recharge port had broken image links. Do you or anyone else know of a good tutorial for that?

[Miraluka]

Yeah if you use that battery, you need a recharge port, and a charger like this one (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/37V-Li-ion-smart-charger-with-21mm-plug-P890.aspx)

Madcow has this tutorial for wiring recharge ports (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17005-Video-wiring-a-recharge-port)

Recharge ports aren't really complicated but if you don't want to use one, you could use batteries like these (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-2400mAh-18650-Lithium-Battery-2-pack-P517.aspx) with a battery holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18650-Single-Cell-Holder-P886.aspx) and a charger like this (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-TR-001-All-in-One-Charger-P346.aspx)

I know the batteries I linked are out of stock right now but you get the idea.

As for the main LED resistor, yeah, I would just grab the 1ohm 2W resistor Tim sells.
You don't use the switch LED along with the blade LED in your calculation. You would only use both if the LEDs are wired in series but yours will be parallel.

[Generic Jedi]

Your second calculation, the one without the switch LED, is correct. Like Miraluka said, the 1 Ohm, 2 Watt resistor is fine.

[obi2kenobi14]

nobody will awnser?

[Taki117]

hey how bright would a tri cree with a 3.7 volt battery and 2.7 resistor be? on a scale of 1 to ten.

About the same as with any other configuration. What drives the LED is current, as long as you are pumping 1A through it the Voltage isn't going to matter much as far as brightness is concerned. The reason we Limit voltage is because the LED can only handle so much before it blows so as long as it is resistored properly (You would need a smaller resistor for a 3.7V battery vs a 7.4V battery) then they should be about the ssame brightness. Note that with a Resistor, as your battery drains the blade will get dimmer, with a buckpuck this isn't the case.

[Generic Jedi]

MrMcCrunch, I've been thinking about where you're placing your blade retention screw. If you haven't already, you may want to watch Madcow's blade retention screw video (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nGqiw4dorDs) on YouTube.

[MrMcCrunch]

So in the notes are we able to provide a link to an image where we show how we want to service to be done? If so then I feel like I could explain it much better. I know it isn't that accurate of a description. But I feel like this is easier to explain.

http://i.imgur.com/eTCJxZ0.jpg

[Miraluka]

I don't see why you wouldn't be able to send that link in your comments but you could probably just say something like "centered, 1/2" under the lower lip of the blade holder"

[Generic Jedi]

If you really want a thumb screw lined up with the box mount, you could file the screw down so it doesn't extend inside the blade holder. It would just be decorative. Use another screw on the opposite side, like in your picture, for blade retention.

If two thumb screws don't feel right, use an 8-32 x 1/4" set screw (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-14-Set-screw-P420.aspx) for blade retetion. It holds the blade and doesn't stick out of the blade holder.

[Miraluka]

If you really want a thumb screw lined up with the box mount, you could file the screw down so it doesn't extend inside the blade holder. It would just be decorative. Use another screw on the opposite side, like in your picture, for blade retention.

If two thumb screws don't feel right, use an 8-32 x 1/4" set screw (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-14-Set-screw-P420.aspx) for blade retetion. It holds the blade and doesn't stick out of the blade holder.

yeah but asking for it to be lined up is a fairly common request and it's doable. No need to worry about extra screws that way if he/she doesn't want them. I'd only start bothering with things like that if I had already received the parts and had forgotten to request that they be lined up or something like that.

[Generic Jedi]

What I meant was two drill and taps in the blade holder. One on the "short" side of the blade holder for blade retention. One on the "long" side of the blade holder, lined up with the box, for a decorative greeblie.

I made the suggestion because that was the original design.