First saber build, Need a little input

[Macekataran1]

Ok, Step one i ordered a hilt, A bane from saberforge.

Now, i would like to rig it up with a momentary switch (blue) a Tri Cree, which i have some questions about, and rig up a recharge port and an Aux button which will be used at latter time. For the moment Aux is just pluging a hole.

Now my questions:

on the Tri Cree I want to order a custom where all three are Royal Blue, After looking at the newbie section, I've determined that the Voltage @ 1A or 1000mA is 3.41v. were i to hook them in series the voltage is 10.23v. I obviously cant run that from a 7.4 battery. So is this where this item comes in? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Constant-current-LED-driver-P609.aspx

also using this would i still need resistors in place?

And which 7.4 battery module to i need to get?

So to finish out what else im shopping for:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Heatsink-module-for-1-ID-tubes-with-center-hole-P1011.aspx

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Recharge-Port-P877.aspx not running to a buck puck

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Blue-Ring-Switch-P925.aspx ok on this item, if a momentary is not applicable would i need to get the converter to make it possible?

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Kill-plug-style-2-P570.aspx and would this actually work as a kill key in this configuration? If not , how would it need to be rigged?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18deg-Tri-RebelCree-Star-Lens-P778.aspx

and http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Custom-Tri-Cree-LED-P1035.aspx with all three in royal blue? unless that is gonna be far to dark... Is there some where to look at the color samples?

And could someone point me towards the right 7.4v module? ANd i do want to get a charger so that i can just hook up a cable and charge the saber with out ripping it apart.

Im sorry for being a pest, But i could really use some help here.

[Miraluka]

I don't have a bane so I have no idea what battery pack would fit inside. Is there a reason you specifically want a 7.4v pack?

Did you order it empty? I'm assuming you did because I think all banes come with recharge ports.

If your bane doesn't have a soundboard, yes, you would need a mom/latch converter board.

"and would this actually work as a kill key in this configuration? If not , how would it need to be rigged?"
What configuration?

[Macekataran1]

uh, ok..

Im not running a sound board. which is why i was wondering if i can rig up a kill key to keep from battery drain. If I'm running the Constant current Led driver, that set up for Momentary switch then why do i need a converter?

As far as a 7.4v pack, two things, 1) a sound board will be added latter ( either an ingniter 2 or a sabercore 7.5) 2) Im wanting to run a tri cree where all three leds are Royal blue and a momentary switch that is illuminated. 12 mm blue.

I ordered the bane with no electronics, drilled for champion, and nothing glued.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The place that you mentioned where you purchased your saber from isn't mentioned in these parts. Also, we don't have a lot of experience with the sound cards you mentioned, those aren't things sold here.

To answer you questions, you will need the converter unless you want to constantly hold down the momentary switch to keep your saber lit up. You can use a kill key/ recharge port to prevent power drain.

im not sure what will fit in the hilt you mentioned, so I can't recommend what kind of pack you should use. I WILL tell you that depending on what pack you wind up with, it'll probably be more likely that you will be able to run two of the blues in parallel (appropriately resistors, of course) and you would be able to skip the constant current driver.

[Silver Serpent]

The LED driver won't work in the configuration you described. From the store page: "* Can drive up to 23V of series connected LEDs (from minimum input = (output voltage + 1.1V))." With the LEDs in series you got 10.23 forward voltage. You'll need a source voltage of 10.23v+1.1v=11.33v to power that.

I would personally wire the LEDs in parallel. That way, they'll all run just fine off your battery pack (or even a single cell). You'll want to be sure you're using one of the larger cell sizes, like an 18650 or 18500, so that it'll support the 3A draw from all three LED dice. If you still want to use the LED driver with the dice in parallel, be sure you get the 3A version.

You can always wire in a recharge port to act as a kill key.

[Bark]

If OP went with a 7.4V pack, could he just wire 2 of the 3 main LEDs in series and the third in parallel to save an amp and run-time, rounding up to a 1ohm 2w resistor on the two LED dies in series circuit and a 4.7ohm 5w resistor on the single LED die circuit? (Actual resistor values --- Series: 0.58ohm, 0.58W --- Parallel: 3.99ohm, 3.99W)

(A lot of the other stuff in OP's post confuses me, so I'm just thinking in terms of a simple 7.4V battery powering three LED dies as mains.)

[Thalan the Exiled]

If OP went with a 7.4V pack, could he just wire 2 of the 3 main LEDs in series and the third in parallel to save an amp and run-time, rounding up to a 1ohm 2w resistor on the two LED dies in series circuit and a 4.7ohm 5w resistor on the single LED die circuit? (Actual resistor values --- Series: 0.58ohm, 0.58W --- Parallel: 3.99ohm, 3.99W)

(A lot of the other stuff in OP's post confuses me, so I'm just thinking in terms of a simple 7.4V battery powering three LED dies as mains.)

Thia solution aeems to be the best option. As for using thd constan current driver I am not sure but I don't think you would need the mom/latch converter since it is set up to use either type of switch. But the only thing it would provide would be some effects and for ths price I would just get a sound card and be done with it. Or save the money and use the resistor set up described in the above quote but for it you would need the mom/latch converter.

[Macekataran1]

My intention is to go ahead and get a number of the "little items" that im gonna need any way no matter if i go with or with out sound. Price wise, sound is gonna have to wait a bit.

So the list, was items that i was considering installing into this saber.

The wiring solution THat Bark suggest, sounds great and I shall rig the saber up with that idea.

The saber in question, does not come with electronics, but it does come with a blade plug. I have no idea if that means a heatsink is gonna be in it or if it is just part of one , particulary the "Upper" half for mounting the plug.

From there, I want to install a Momentary switch for two reasons, 1) i like the blue ring look, 2) they don't offer the same color in 12mm, which is what i under stand is what is gonna fit the saber hole. Thanks to Thalan and Forgetful Jedi, i know i need the lactching to momentary converter.

just below it is the recharge/ kill key port. ANd thanks to Silver Serpent and Forgetful jedi , it looks like i can.

As i do not have the saber in hand, wont have till next month, Im going off of what I have read, and from other sabers made from saberforge. Most, if not all of them have 1" ID.

Im wanting to get the biggest battery in 7.4v range that will fit for 2 reasons. 1) i will be aquiring a sound board a later date and 7.4 is gonna be what is required. 2) i want the longest time i can out of it but with the birightest i can get the Leds to run safely.

Hope that clarifies my goal.


Thanks for the input. If i am doing something that wont work, please let me know. I do intend to get much better at this. and start building from scratch as i am able to.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK. After seeing that, you are not going to get a very large battery pack into that. Since this sounds like your first hilt, I would really wait until you get it in hand. I have a strong feeling what you "want" and what you are going to "be able to do" are going to be 2 different things. Two dice in series (with a nominal resistor) is likely what you're going to have to deal with for now.

Also I removed the link as it is against the house rules.

[obi2kenobi14]

how are you guys council members? what does that even mean

[Macekataran1]

Sorry i posted the the website to the item that was in question, I should have sent pics of it instead.

And next question. Where or how would some one go about making some friendly suggestions?

As it turns out, A lot of the stuff in the store doesnt come with measurements as far as OD and ID. now im speaking about the electronics.

Also, when you read Hilt electronics, the sound board and the leds are electronics, But leds are in the hilt electronics and the sound boards are under sound, so why are they separate? I would think they both should be under electronics, one folder grouping leds and one for sound.

I do understand about waiting and seeing. 11618 This is what i am getting, for others that are curious.

[Silver Serpent]

how are you guys council members? what does that even mean

When over 2000 posts you reach, a Council Member you might become.

Or some number around there. It's been a while. It doesn't mean anything, just flavor for the boards.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

When over 2000 posts you reach, a Council Member you might become.

Or some number around there. It's been a while. It doesn't mean anything, just flavor for the boards.

Uh, no post count has nothing to with it. Tim made us Council Members because we have proven to be such a big help to him with answering questions on the forum and helping out other members that we have earned the distinction. We also have limited moderator abilities.

[Silver Serpent]

I'm fairly certain I don't have any moderator powers of any kind. Best I can do is click the "Report" button for spammers and the like. The "Council Member" title might be bestowed specifically by Tim, but I'm pretty sure the "Jedi Council Member" title I have is just post-count related.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'm fairly certain I don't have any moderator powers of any kind. Best I can do is click the "Report" button for spammers and the like. The "Council Member" title might be bestowed specifically by Tim, but I'm pretty sure the "Jedi Council Member" title I have is just post-count related.

Yours is SS. The other one is a carry over from a long time ago in a far far away galaxy. :D

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I'm fairly certain I don't have any moderator powers of any kind. Best I can do is click the "Report" button for spammers and the like. The "Council Member" title might be bestowed specifically by Tim, but I'm pretty sure the "Jedi Council Member" title I have is just post-count related.
Funny thing is, i never really noticed I have both.

[Macekataran1]

ok, so update.

Still waiting on hilt, however I am gonna run an NB v2, ive already got the modular wiring for it, the led, switch, speaker, battery, and recharge port. all of it is under the modular section. I have decided for the first time build to keep it simple. 1 rebel star Royal blue, 940mW @ 700ma 3.2V run @1000mA. Nana Biscotte V2, a mometary ring swtich Blue in color 3V @ 20mA.
I have pre wired the Switch and the 20mA dyna Ohm Variable resistor on the positive terminal, tested it and looks good.

Questions start popping up at this point. Battery wise, I ordered a 3.7V 2600mAh single. Looking at the formula from NB manual, I am now concrened that the Battery will have to much amperage. Since my led will only be running 1000mA or 1A. But after looking none of the packs are set like this. So, Im confused a little. Could someone clear that up a little, is the 26000mAh gonna fry the board and led or what?

Also to my understanding My Power led and the switch led are actually gonna be parallel so how does that affect me?

Sorry for being kinda dense, but it is a real chore having to find documentation on this stuff. Maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to have datasheets for every thing the store sells, that way it is in one easy to find place. Just a suggestion.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You'll be fine. The 2600 mAh is just a measure of the "stamina" of the battery. A 2600 mAh battery, in theory, will drive your LED @ 1A for 2.6 hours. The battery *could* fry your LED IF you do not but a resistor on it, to make sure it gets the correct voltage (3.2V) and amperage (1A).

[Macekataran1]

1 ohm 2 watt resistor should do, According to Led resistor calculator http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

I have them on my wish list, when THe NBv2 comes around again Ill order all the stuff together, along with a kill key , and lens holder i missed the first time round.

[Miraluka]

You'll be fine. The 2600 mAh is just a measure of the "stamina" of the battery. A 2600 mAh battery, in theory, will drive your LED @ 1A for 2.6 hours. The battery *could* fry your LED IF you do not but a resistor on it, to make sure it gets the correct voltage (3.2V) and amperage (1A).

I've never seen anyone use the word stamina to explain battery amperage. That's lovely. Good way to describe it.