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CET
07-13-2015, 02:48 PM
I've never done anything like this, so I have a great deal of trepidation and I really want to get it right!

Here's a wiring schematic I created based on parts that I've ordered and have on my wishlist. Will this work, or do I need to make any changes?

In case it's not clear, I have 4 sets of wires coming off of the buckpuck into the sound card and leds.
11609
11608

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-13-2015, 03:06 PM
If you are using a NB, you don't use a buck puck with it.

DarthScohin
07-13-2015, 03:06 PM
You don't need the buckpuck, and I'll let others give they're input

Scarecrow
07-13-2015, 03:14 PM
Wrong battery. NB Power supply : 3.4 to 5.5v / 2A (with the High-power LED). SINGLE li-ion cells (18650 or 14500)

CET
07-13-2015, 06:01 PM
Thanks guys, you rock!

OK, so no power supply at all and a single battery instead of a battery pack? What's the rationale behind this?

If there is no power supply, how does the wiring change? I assume the LEDs go through the sound card somehow?

This is pushing 3.7V. Since I'm running 2 LEDs as well, will it be enough?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74v-Li-ion-2600mAh-18650-Battery-Pack-P699.aspx

I selected this one initially because it pushes 7.4V
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74v-Li-ion-2600mAh-18650-Battery-Pack-P699.aspx

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-13-2015, 06:12 PM
The battery is your power supply. As previously stated, the NB can only handle up to 5.5V in voltage. In other words, it was designed to work with a single 18650 battery. You should read through the NB manual a couple of times, and you'll see how it all works. ;)

Silver Serpent
07-13-2015, 06:19 PM
The battery is the power supply. You need a 3.7v battery pack (typically a single cell, though it can be multiple cells in parallel)

The LEDs will be run through the board. You'll need to wire them in parallel since you can't give them enough voltage for series without cooking the NB.

I would advise reading through the manual a few times. The wiring diagrams are in there.

edit: FJK beat me to the punch

CET
07-13-2015, 09:57 PM
Glad to hear the NB comes with a wiring manual. Thanks guys! I'll post pics when it's done.

Jay-gon Jinn
07-14-2015, 08:57 AM
Glad to hear the NB comes with a wiring manual. Thanks guys! I'll post pics when it's done.
Just and FYI in case you are unaware, the NB doesn't come with a printed manual, you have to download it from the store.

CET
07-14-2015, 09:02 AM
I would not have noticed that, thank you!

Jay-gon Jinn
07-14-2015, 04:14 PM
I would not have noticed that, thank you!
You are welcome! I would download it and get started on it, there's a lot of information in it, and you'll want to have a good idea of what you're doing before you get started wiring it up.

CET
07-21-2015, 05:14 PM
I've been reading up and I'm wondering if I need to include any resistors. I've read about people burning out led's and switch lights because they didn't add resistors or have the right ones. I saw TCSS has a LED resistor chart, but I don't understand it.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-21-2015, 05:26 PM
Resistors are always a good idea. You may want to read through and study this, especially if you plan on building sabers in the future.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17109-Tutorial-FJK-s-quot-Down-and-Dirty-quot-guide-to-Ohm-s-Law

Yorginsnarff
07-21-2015, 05:41 PM
I've been reading up and I'm wondering if I need to include any resistors. I've read about people burning out led's and switch lights because they didn't add resistors or have the right ones. I saw TCSS has a LED resistor chart, but I don't understand it.

so, I have a nano biscotte (v2), 3.7V li-ion setup, and I'm using a .47 ohm, 1/2W resistor. Works great. No issues so far ;)

CET
07-22-2015, 12:37 PM
OK, so If I'm running Rebel Star LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHSV1-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx) and a 3.7V battery, I come up with a 0.7 ohm, 0.7 W resistor.

R=(3.7-3)/1
R=0.7

P=0.7*1^2
P=0.7

For the crystal chamber LED I'm running a 5mm white LED (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/531). I come up with a 0.4 ohm, 0.4 W resistor.

R=(3.7-3.3)/1
R=0.4

P=0.4*1^2
P=0.4

Does this look right?

I'm assuming I should NOT run these in series.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-22-2015, 12:41 PM
The first one is correct, though you will have to "round up". The second one partially depends on if you are using a sound card or not, and also the current is wrong. 5mm LEDs only take 20 mA. ;)

CET
07-22-2015, 01:28 PM
I plan on running them both through the NB.

You're right, it is 20mA. That could have been bad! I re-did the math and the result I get is a 20 omh, 1/4 W resistor.

You've been very patient and helpful with me. Thank you!

Robust Stardust
07-22-2015, 10:34 PM
OK, so If I'm running Rebel Star LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHSV1-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx) and a 3.7V battery, I come up with a 0.7 ohm, 0.7 W resistor.

R=(3.7-3)/1
R=0.7

P=0.7*1^2
P=0.7


Also (please correct me if I'm wrong), but if you are planning on using a deep red Rebel Star that you linked to (which have a max current of 700mA), then the amperage value in this first calculation should be 0.700 (700mA) so as not to overdrive and burn out the main LED. This would slightly change your first resistor value.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-23-2015, 05:19 AM
Also (please correct me if I'm wrong), but if you are planning on using a deep red Rebel Star that you linked to (which have a max current of 700mA), then the amperage value in this first calculation should be 0.700 (700mA) so as not to overdrive and burn out the main LED. This would slightly change your first resistor value.

If he "rounds up" as I suggested, a 1 Ohm, 1W would work even at 700 mA. ;)

But now that I look at it again, the Vf for that Deep Red looks pretty high. it should be more in the 2.3-2.4V range IIRC.

CET
07-23-2015, 12:45 PM
Sorry, I guess I'm throwing some confusion here. My current build is my first saber, which will have a white blade and crystal chamber.

I am planning a second build with a red blade and crystal chamber, so I may have accidentally linked to that. However, this thread is strictly about my first build (white blade/crystal).

My wishlist currently has:

.47ohm 1/2w resistor x 1 (Blade)
18ohm 1/4w resistor x 2 (Crystal chamber and Anti Vandal switch)

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-23-2015, 12:50 PM
If you are using a Cree as the main LED, then you'll be fine.

Robust Stardust
07-23-2015, 08:57 PM
If he "rounds up" as I suggested, a 1 Ohm, 1W would work even at 700 mA. ;)

But now that I look at it again, the Vf for that Deep Red looks pretty high. it should be more in the 2.3-2.4V range IIRC.

Ah yes, quite right! That Vf of the deep red Rebel would put the resister in the realm of a 2 ohm 1 watt resistor, if I'm not mistaken.
And like you say, a Cree would be the most elegant solution in this case, resistor-wise.


Sorry, I guess I'm throwing some confusion here. My current build is my first saber, which will have a white blade and crystal chamber.

I am planning a second build with a red blade and crystal chamber, so I may have accidentally linked to that. However, this thread is strictly about my first build (white blade/crystal).


Oh, my bad! Please disregard my correction for the Rebel's amperage (although it might come in handy for your second build with the red Rebel!). Best of luck :D