Wiring question. Please help.

[Falon Cadress]

I have a SF warrior tier 12 watt Acolyte that I would like to swap the standard switch out for a 12mm blue LED av latching switch. I've been told that I need to use a resistor, but that's where my knowledge ends. I don't know **** about wiring. Can anyone please help? What kind of resistor, and how does it get wired in etc. Can anyone give me any info, diagrams, schematics, or other help? I'm dumber than an inbred nerf herder when it comes to electronics.

[hapki]

I was the same way when I first stumbled onto this website. It takes a lot of reading to figure it all out. Fortunately, the tutorial videos on this site, as well as the related discussions, are very helpful. There are also lots of useful you've videos on circuits, resistors, etc. as far as resistors, y need to consider how much juice the LED needs, how much your battery provides, etc. look up Ohm's law on this site. That's what you need to figure it out.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

First, Welcome to the forums.

The resistor you need will depend on what type of battery solution your current saber has. Once you have the switch, the resistor would be attached to the (+) LED lug. You can use a 1 or 2 cell AA battery holder (if you have one) to figure out which is which.

[Bark]

12mm latching switch? I don't see that. I see momentary but not latching in TCSS store.

Forgetting a possible problem you may have with momentary vs. latching, here's a short-short version that I think will give you what you want:

1. Buy a DynaOhm resistor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/20mA-DynaOhm-Variable-Resistor-P847.aspx) and the switch(???) you want.
2. Print out this picture (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/SMRNRc.jpg).
3. Cut out the current switch and wire the now loose wires to the switch posts, not the LED posts, of the new AV switch.
4. Find the main blade wires, both positive and negative, and tap into both with new wire, i.e. a Y-Split. (DO NOT BREAK THE MAIN BLADE CIRCUIT! You are just tapping into them with new wire. The LED in the AV switch will feed off of the power going to the main blade.)
5. Wire the new negative tap wire to the LED- post of the AV Switch.
6. Wire the new positive tap wire to the DynaOhm+ (also known as DynaOhm IN) post.
7. Solder a wire from DynaOhm- (also known as DynaOhm OUT or even just blank) post to the LED+ post of the AV switch.

[Miraluka]

If you want to use an AV switch with a SF hilt, You're going to need a momentary to latching converter board.

If you want to use a 12mm switch, you need the converter board. These aren't available in latching style.

If you want to use a 16mm switch, you need to drill out a bigger hole. If you want to use a latching switch instead of a converter board, you're going to need a bezel because latching switches are too long to fit into an SF hilt. Keep in mind, the bezels from TCSS are meant for MHS V1 OD and aren't going to fit perfectly on SF hilts. Especially not an Acolyte or other "apprentice" hilts.
If you do decide to use a 16mm switch, you're going to need a 16mm or 5/8" drill bit. They are larger than what is normally included in a set of drill bits so you'd need to buy them separately.