Pictures of parts... first build, does this look right?

[Lleutiegr]

Hello!

Building my first simple sabers, one Sith for me and one Jedi for my spouse, and I went ahead and got the first round of parts. I expect to make another order (because I've been waiting on inventory, and also like a dumbass I ordered the wrong switch holes and need to get recessed instead). I wanted to get your feedback to make sure I'm on the right track.

Notes:
- planning to add unconnected wires to the white LEDs for future flash-on-clash installation. I won't do any of that now, but I want it to be wired right for later.
- I was thinking I'd use quick connectors to be able to remove the LED module once I build it. Am I on the right track?
- do I have too many lenses? I'm not sure where all of these go.
- I thought the Single Cell Holder would be a "sled" that fit in the hilt so the battery doesn't rattle around, but it looks like I was wrong. Is there a different piece that's a "sled", or am I using this wrong?
- I'm surprised by how clear the blades are. they also don't seem to match the tips. did I order one the wrong color? Do I need to put something in the blade to diffuse the light properly?
- I realize have no idea how this charger plugs in to this battery pack. O.O do I need an adapter to plug in to the red pluggy thing?

Here's the photo of all the parts:

11542

Bigger photo:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-P3npErhlLRM2FlNXdTb0RKanM/view?usp=sharing

Parts List:

1 Hilt style 3 - Machine 16mm AV switch hole
1 Hilt Style 5 (7" Fluted double female threaded connector) Machine 16mm AV switch hole
2 1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long (32 inches +$0.50)
1 MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 23
1 MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 16
2 MPS Clip
1 MPS Pommel style 4
1 MPS Pommel style 7
2 MPS Insert style 6
1 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary White Ring Switch
1 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Green Dot Switch
1 3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger
1 8-32 x 1/2" button head screw
2 1ohm 2w resistor
14 1-3/16oring 1-3/16" ID Black O-ring
2 Super Lube Synthetic Grease
2 Bullet shaped tip for 1" thick walled blades
1 1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing
2 2 Wire quick connector
1 Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) location: blade holder style 16. in one of the inner most grooves.
1 Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) location: blade retention screw hole on blade holder style 23
1 Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
1 18650 Single Cell Holder
1 Red/Red/White Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
1 Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (Green/Green/White)
2 Cree XP-E2/XP-L Lens Holder
2 18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
2 Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
2 Star thermal tape pad
2 JST Extension Blue/White 24 AWG
2 MHS Heat Sink V3


I know I need:

Exchange the two hilts for the same parts with machine recessed 16mm AV switch holes
1 more li-ion 3.7 volt battery pack
1 more battery holder (or two "sleds"?)
1 more retention screw
Return one set of these lenses?
I will definitely add a choke section to mine as soon as it comes in stock.

What else would you suggest?

Thanks so much for your help. With your advice I'll be killing Jedi in no time.

Best,

Lleu

[Generic Jedi]

You don't need a lens holder with a tri-rebel/tri-cree led.
You don't need the 18650 single cell holder with that battery. Look at the acryllic disks in the chassis parts section.
You need the diffuser wrap for your blades. Find it under the blade supplies section.
You need a Tamiya to JST adapter to charge the battery, unless you get a recharge port. I think both will be under batteries and packs in the clips and holders section. If you get the recharge port, don't forget the kill plug.

[Silver Serpent]

A local option for diffuser wrap in the blades is clear cellophane. You can usually find it in hobby/craft shops. See Jay-Gon's wonderful tutorial on assembling blades: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?7274-How-to-construct-an-LED-Blade-(or-at-least-how-I-do-it)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You'll want two more resistors, it's not a good idea to run two led's with only one resistor...both led's need their own, and since you have two Triple Cree XP-E's, I'm assuming you want to use two led's to light the blades of your sabers. I would suggeast checking the calculations for the red cree's resistor values and get two for that...I'm not sure a 1ohm is enough due to the voltage drop necessary for that led from the 3.7v of the battery.

If you plan to recharge the batteries outside the saber, this adapter is what you'll need: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Tamiya-to-JST-charger-adapter-P701.aspx

If you add recharge ports to each saber (easily done since you have the pommel insert for that), you'll need this one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-plug-adapter-for-smart-charger-P36.aspx

2.1mm recharge jacks are here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switchcraft-21mm-Power-Jack-P822.aspx

Or if you decide to add the 2.1mm charge ports, you skip the adapter and get this charger instead: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/37V-Li-ion-smart-charger-with-21mm-plug-P890.aspx
I'd get two, that way you can charge both sabers at the same time. ;)

Go with Silver Serpent's suggestion of getting clear plastic gift wrapping. it can be found in dollar stores, and even your local Wal-mart in the card aisle. Follow my tutorial he linked to, and you'll have a bright blade.

It looks like the switch holes in your sabers are for the 16mm switches, instead of returning them, you could use the mounting bezel instead. Just a thought.

[Lleutiegr]

Very helpful, thank you! I can do this. :)

Ok. The only part that's a little unclear is the chassis. I can identify the right discs for my battery pack, I think the FOC will add just fine in the future, but how should I measure the various lengths of the narrow tubes? Just add up sections to go from the the pommel to just below where it narrows? Seems like a good idea to build it solidly for stage combat...

[Generic Jedi]

You can use the acrylic disks for either the nano biscotte and 18500/18650 battery, or the petite crouton and 18500/18650 battery. Make sure to get the disks for 1.25" internal diameter (1.15" internal diameter if you want to put your battery in a ribbed section).

[Silver Serpent]

but how should I measure the various lengths of the narrow tubes? Just add up sections to go from the the pommel to just below where it narrows?

That's pretty much how I do it. Don't forget to add in the width of your chassis discs as well, since they'll take up some of that length.