PDA

View Full Version : Tonfa Revival



Marquis
06-18-2015, 08:35 AM
Interest in Tonfas seems to have died down somewhat, but I have a Cathar Character in Saga Edition that shoots a heavy blaster with her left hand and uses a lightsaber defensively with her right. Mostly relies on force powers on the jedi side of things, but will mix it up with the saber when its the best solution - i.e. bypass damage reduction.

So I came up with a tonfa design... sorry to see that the tonfa adapter seems perpetually out of stock.
11527

I've faked the tonfa handle. I'm also considering using some a pipe tee to strengthen the tonfa grip and some sleeves to give the long portion of the handle some sense of lightsaber resistant components.

The dimensions seem accurate for a tonfa, both 'handles' roughly the same length and the long end coming to a few inches shy of my elbow. A medium length blade would still produce a formidable offensive weapon while allowing considerable maneuverability and spinning.

Other than a strong resemblance to a STTOS Starship Nacelle, I'd be happy to get some feedback.

Bcom976
07-10-2015, 06:14 PM
I would really love to be able to make an actual Guard Shoto lightsaber. It'd be a rare thing to see especially at conventions.

Bcom976
07-10-2015, 07:40 PM
I just don't know how I would actually put together the tonfa..

Marquis
11-17-2015, 07:43 AM
Design update 12415 12416

Before anyone freaks out over the pistol grip, my Jedi plays during an era where there is a lot of hunting and killing of Jedi going on. I figured it might be possible to disguise the tonfa with a pistol grip. I'm hoping my brother can 3D print some pieces so that it slips over the tonfa handle and clips onto the main assembly like a microphone.

Chassis Internals:
I'm planning on using the Crystal Focus 7.5, which can use the PC disks with some slight modification. Plenty of space in this for batteries, but placement could be tricky.

Do I need 2 18650 batteries for the CF 7.5?

Is there enough room below the switch and recharge port for the 5.25 2 battery pack?
If I use 2 seperate 18650 batteries, do I have to wire in a protection circuit?
Is the inside diameter of the Tonfa handle the same as the MHS V1 items (Can I put 1 battery in the shaft and one in the grip)?


What is missing?
Chassis components: Batteries, Cree-Tri-XP-E2, TRSL Lens, Recharge port, 2 Switches, RICE Port (Internal), MHS V3 Heat Sink, premium speaker

Chassis Structure: 2x 4-40 thread, matching nuts, 2 chassis discs per battery (or pack), assorted spacers, speaker mount v5 (2 batteries?), tons of wiring stuff.

Also if someone could recommend a short blade. I'm leaning towards Amber in color.

Thanks for your feedback.

Cire Yeldarb
11-17-2015, 12:45 PM
I like how the saber looks in those proportions with the pistol grip... however with that main barrel area being 18-19" long (much longer than any normal pistol) I think you'll find that with the grip scaled as big as it is it will be incredibly uncomfortable to hold, especially in one hand...

I would shorten the barrel by taking out at least that fluted extension, and then scale the pistol grip down to the proportions you have after that, and I think you'll find it slightly easier to hold...

Brent
11-17-2015, 12:51 PM
If you also plan to keep it in a holster, you might want to change to a different blade holder. The one you have on there will constantly get caught when pulling it out.

Marquis
11-18-2015, 09:12 AM
Thanks for the feedback Brent and Cire. The barrel size is only slightly longer than a 9mm beretta with a 5 inch silencer and another 5 inches behind the grip - not unusual for a sci-fi gun. It is also about the size of a trooper's blaster. The point isn't to actually use it as a gun (though my gm was surprised to learn I was making this and he may give me a stun shot for it). The point is to make imperials think it is a gun and not a lightsaber, even with relatively close inspection. Excellent point on the blade holder/holster drawing issue. I've changed back to a tapered slotted blade holder.

If anyone has feedback on the electronics and chassis stuff, I'd love to hear it.

Cire Yeldarb
11-18-2015, 10:42 AM
I get the barrel length, my comment was more about the largeness of the proposed pistol grip in the hand being slightly uncomfortable. Anyways sorry, I had completely forgotten about your questions:


Design update 12415 12416

Do I need 2 18650 batteries for the CF 7.5?
They can be 18650's or they could be the 14500 or 14650 packs. as long as they are 7.4V packs that is the important part. (unless you want to try the 3.7V hack)

Is there enough room below the switch and recharge port for the 5.25 2 battery pack?
Probably not. Which is why personally I would just go with side-by-side 14*** 7.4V pack if I were going to be making a CF build, because the 18650 7.4V packs are just so loong!
If I use 2 seperate 18650 batteries, do I have to wire in a protection circuit?
If you are saying if you put one 18650 in one place (say under the CF) and the other wired to it, but in somewhere else (like the handle), that could work, but yes, you would need the right protection circuit for your homemade pack.
Is the inside diameter of the Tonfa handle the same as the MHS V1 items (Can I put 1 battery in the shaft and one in the grip)?
That I do not know, sorry. Might be a question to email Tim about.


What is missing?
Chassis components: Batteries, Cree-Tri-XP-E2, TRSL Lens, Recharge port, 2 Switches, RICE Port (Internal), MHS V3 Heat Sink, premium speaker, CF (obviously), resistors for your switch LEDs if applicable

Chassis Structure: 2x 4-40 thread, matching nuts, 2 chassis discs per battery (or pack), assorted spacers, speaker mount v5 (2 batteries?), tons of wiring stuff. That all depends on what you plan to do for the battery question

Also if someone could recommend a short blade. I'm leaning towards Amber in color.
You can get blade material cut to almost any length needed in the store and then add the diffuser tube or wraps yourself.

Marquis
03-01-2016, 02:41 PM
Some pictures as I've worked out most of my design and I'm starting to proceed with building.

13447134481344913450

Currently using some red acrylic discs for spacing. The white printed plastic pieces will hold the speaker, the circuit boards and battery, and the RICE port. You can see the kill plug and switch opposite the tonfa grip, and the other switch in the tonfa cap. By unscrewing the ribbed section I'll have access to the RICE port, which is held in place using the speaker holder and double threaded adapter. That worked out quite nice.

I'm thinking of putting a 12AX7 tube and an LED near the RICE Port for some special "crystal chamber" stuff.

Cire Yeldarb
03-01-2016, 03:14 PM
Nice! looking forward to seeing this completed

TheSilverDark
03-04-2016, 07:37 PM
That's quite a pleasing build!

Marquis
03-25-2016, 04:30 PM
13644 So here's my wiring diagram and layout strategy. After copying all the separate wiring schematics from the CF manual into a single picture, I took a second pass to streamline the layout and help see where the wire would actually run and how many splices I would need.

I'm using 2x2, 2x3 and 1x1 crimp connectors in order to be able to disconnect the switches, charging port, CREE, and Data Port. I might use them on the speaker, but it isn't that big a deal to leave the speaker connected and it saves a lot of space - the connectors are bulky. The 1x1 connectors will fit through the hole into the tonfa grip.

More Pictures to come after I get the wiring all done. I'll have all the components on the bench. Then I'll be ready to start the Patina process.

Marquis
04-04-2016, 09:29 AM
Wiring complete. I urge everyone to follow the troubleshooting guide in the Wiring and LED section - specifically: START SIMPLE. Also really check your switch connections before you solder. My problem was that I wired my on/off through the LED connection and vice versa for the vandal with the ring switch.

So here's a picture, all the parts, all the wires, all disconnected. It lights, it hums, it's ready for the next phase: Patina.
13684

I've had some experience wiring with 20-24 gauge wires. I wired 4 panels of 6 Neutrik Jacks (combo XLR and RTS, 6 wires per jack) through two walls. Nice because you can use them for XLR, Instruments or headphones. I've also wired up an 8 room recording studio/office with Cat 5. The wires and wall plates were in place, but they were never connected on either end. I cut a bunch of short cat 5 cables to connect a simple patch bay in the electrical room and hooked up all the jacks. Still I managed to screw up that one switch connection that messed everything up.

hapki
04-04-2016, 05:29 PM
That's awesome. I like the ribbed choke. I'd never thought of that. It looks great.

Marquis
04-14-2016, 12:45 PM
13765

So my first and second attempts at using Alukot to apply a patina to the aluminum parts. My original plan was to mask everything, put rubber stoppers in the end to protect the insides and cut away the masking where I wanted the dark to go. Didn't work out so well. I ended up scratching the aluminum with the x-acto knife and didn't get a really clean edge. But in the process I discovered it was really easy to wipe off the Chemical coloration while everything was wet.

It is also fairly easy to do when it is dry, so be careful.

Attempt 2. Dip the grooved piece into Alukot 65 (2 cups alukot, 4 cups water) and wait 75 seconds. BTW, at 40 seconds it still looks awesome. Pull it out, dunk it in the water to stop the catalyst, wipe off the raised parts (mostly) and leave some nice dark grooves and a few smudges. I call those "wear."

On to the ribbed grooved choke. You same basic procedure. The result is a dark, flat brown. It might pickup a little shine when I seal it. But before that happens both pieces, along with the rest of the aluminum parts, are going for a dip in the Alukot 50 for a nice coppery bronze finish. That's my plan for tomorrow. Then sealing it up on the weekend when it is supposed to be an ideal 70 degrees. More pics then.

Marquis
04-15-2016, 11:57 AM
2nd Dip complete. Here's all the external parts. I'll probably have to do some light finger buffing to get the seams to match up.

13789

Should anyone else choose to use this method, I'd go with a single chemical, lighter than your dark color. Dip it for 50% longer than the recommend time, then wipe off what you want to be light colored, then dip it again for the recommend time period.

Marquis
04-17-2016, 11:55 AM
4 coats of spray1382413825 lacquer, hanging to dry in my kitchen.

hapki
04-17-2016, 06:40 PM
Very cool. I like that color/texture.