View Full Version : New here - keen to capture parts for first saber build

05-28-2015, 06:13 AM
Asked many questions (some not very well) and gotten many great answers so far.

Put in my first order for parts (sans the NB2 until it comes back into stock.)

05-28-2015, 09:36 AM
To answer a couple of your questions, or at least (hopefully) shed a little light on the situation...

Nice blade holder. If you purchase a Cree star or Rebel star module, (on the modular wiring system
page) the thermal pad will already be included and installed. The set screw would work for blade
retention, and be inconspicuous, I have a thumb screw in my blade holder and like the look of it.

So many choices for switches. If you're after a clean look, perhaps a short AV switch, with machine
recessed AV switch hole service.

These are the converters you're looking for:

2.5 to 7v momentary to latching converter
choose this one if you get a 3.7v (single cell Li-ion) battery.

4.5 to 20 volt converter
Or get this one if you opt for a 7.4v Li-ion battery pack.

or for a few $ more, you could get a pre-wired converter
(just select the one for whichever battery you buy)

The pommel, insert, & MPS clip are fine. I didn't see mention of it, but with the covertec, you
will probably want to get this covertec clip (to hang the saber from your belt)

05-29-2015, 12:57 AM
Thanks TwinMill the prewired converter sounds like the go for me, thinking the 7.4v Li-ion version, would I also need some sort of battery holder? I understand being in Australia TCSS cannot post the Li-ion batteries to me but hope equivalent are available somewhere here or ebay etc.

The 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Green Dot Switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Short-Momentary-Green-Dot-Switch-P586.aspx) looks to be custom designed for me and thank you for the heads up on the Machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machine-recessed-16mm-AV-switch-hole-P552.aspx).

Just saw the Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switchcraft-21mm-Power-Jack-P822.aspx) & Recharge port hole service (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Recharge-port-hole-service-P452.aspx) thinking this could be a nice feature.

If I requested a Drill & Tap Hole (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Drill-Tap-Hole-P193.aspx) for both the covertech and blade retention screw could I forgo the drill and tap set and the tap handle?

Anything else I have missed that is essential for making my first saber?

05-30-2015, 03:45 AM
For your colors, Lime green is a fun blade color, just sucks that there aren't lime green switches. Your switch and blade will be noticeably different. It's still cool, just making sure you know. This is a Rebel Lime green blade, you can see the green switch on the pommel.
Still awesome =]

You can use the set screws for blade retention, but life is so much easier when you don't need a wrench to switch between a blade plug and a blade. Soooo much easier. Even when I don't like the way thumb screws look, I use them because life is that much easier. Just my opinion, though.

If you're interested in a recharge port, remember you don't have to pay for a recharge port hole service. You could just use MPS insert style 6 instead of style 1. It has a threaded hole in it for you to screw a recharge port into. Be warned though: putting switches or ports into the pommel can be a pain because you can twist your wires when you screw it together.

Definitely buy helping hands for your soldering iron. I use a set that has a sponge holder, solder stand and magnifying glass built into it. I also like having brass wool. A wet sponge will work for cleaning your soldering iron but the brass makes my life easier.

The 1/8" heat shrink is good to have if you're forking your wires but for normal stuff, I use 1/16". It's not as bulky. Fits over the wire better.

05-30-2015, 02:10 PM
That is beautiful and it has the blade colour I really want, basic idea is to try and make something reminiscent of Arca Jeths lightsaber:11404

This is what I came up with so far using the wonderful builder and taking into account I might be able then to add the recharge port in the pommel which would be amazing!11405

Thanks for the tip on the heat shrink and soldering station as well.

I did some googling and saw 3D printed internal chassis for holding everything together inside which looks like a great idea especially when it comes to adding a sound board, speaker and battery.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
05-30-2015, 02:13 PM
Welcome to the Forums.

If you are going to be "adding on" later, just make sure you will have enough room for everything you might want.

06-18-2015, 02:26 AM
Ok kinda back to the drawing board, a friend offered to help me put my saber together complete with sound so been reading up a bit and trying to follow all the info here but love to get a bit more guidance.

For a lime green (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx) Rebel Star the built kit module doesn't specify the forward voltage so I had a look at what I think is the actual Rebel Star LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.aspx) and see the Lime is rated at 2.75v running at 1000mA. So if I have a 3.7v battery and use the LED Calculator (http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz) The wizard recommends a 2W or greater 1 ohm resistor. The color code for 1 ohms is brown black gold...

Trying it again with a Cree Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cree-Star-LED-MHSV1-Heatsink-Module-P998.aspx) no forward voltage supplied I just look up the White Cree XP-E2 CopperNova (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/White-Cree-XP-E2-CopperNova-P1003.aspx) and find Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.15v using a 3.7v battery The wizard recommends a 2W or greater 1 ohm resistor. The color code for 1 ohms is brown black gold...

Did I do this correctly?

06-18-2015, 05:32 AM
your math looks right. I'm getting a little over half an ohm when I do it, but 1 ohm is much safer for the Cree, not so much the Rebel (.95 ohm for the Rebel, good enough). What sound card are you planning on? I would start there because then you might want to customize your Emitter (LEDs) by using a Tri-Cree LED, it's a little more wiring, and a little more work, but worth it in my opinion since you can do FoC, among other things.

06-18-2015, 06:49 AM
Looking at the Nano Biscotte 2.

FOC Sounds amazing but think I will hold fire a bit and look at Tri-Cree and more complex wiring when I finally do my Luke ROTJ (gotta have something to look forward too :) )

Still head scratching on how it all fits together!

06-18-2015, 08:33 PM
What do you mean? You're gonna hold off on using the NB? Or you're just gonna hold off on using FoC? :confused:

06-19-2015, 01:10 PM
What do you mean? You're gonna hold off on using the NB? Or you're just gonna hold off on using FoC? :confused:

No FoC for this build but definitely a NB. :)

06-25-2015, 03:12 AM
Put in my order for the following:

Blade Holder Style 7 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHSV1-Blade-Holder-Style-7-P187.aspx
Custom Mill Work http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Custom-Mill-Work-Fee-P739.aspx
Drill & Tap Hole 8-32 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Drill-Tap-Hole-P193.aspx
Blade Retention Screw 8-32 x 1/8" Set screw http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-18-Set-screw-P108.aspx
Allen Wrench 5/64" Allen wrench http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/564-Allen-wrench-P56.aspx
Main Body Hilt Style 1 (7" Double female threaded connector) http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-Style-1-7-Double-female-threaded-connector-P126.aspx
Drill & Tap Hole 8-32 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Drill-Tap-Hole-P193.aspx
Choke MHS choke style 3 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-choke-style-3-P313.aspx
Pommel MPS Pommel style 7 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Pommel-style-7-P386.aspx
Pommel Clip MPS Clip http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx
Pommel Insert MPS Insert style 6 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Insert-style-6-P263.aspx
LED Unit (Lime) Rebel Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx
Resistor 2W or greater 1 ohm resistor http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1ohm-2w-resistor-P21.aspx
Covertech Machined button for Covertec clip http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machined-button-for-Covertec-clip-P161.aspx
Covertech Socket head 8-32 x 1/4" socket head http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-14-socket-head-P107.aspx
Allen Wrench 9/64" Allen wrench http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/964-Allen-wrench-P59.aspx
Switch MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Nickel http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Short-Momentary-16mm-AV-Switch-Nickel-P878.aspx
LED Switch Wire 2 Wire quick connector http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2-Wire-quick-connector-P38.aspx
Powerjack Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switchcraft-21mm-Power-Jack-P822.aspx
Heatshrink (various)
Kill Key Kill plug style 2 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Kill-plug-style-2-P570.aspx
Chassis Thread (several) Stainless 4-40 all thread http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Stainless-4-40-all-thread-P770.aspx
Chassis Discs Acrylic Chassis Disc for NB and 18500/18650 pack - S3 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-NB-and-1850018650-pack-S3-P813.aspx
Speaker Mount MHS speaker mount V4 - For 28mm Speakers http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V4-For-28mm-Speakers-P661.aspx
Speaker Premium 28mm Speaker http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-28mm-Speaker-P77.aspx
Spacers (various)

Amazingly got all of those things with the sale discount which is great.

Definitely getting a Nano Biscotti 2 when available.

I do have another question though, being in Australia I was unable to order a battery through TCSS, I hope this isn't too bad form to ask but is this battery acceptable for my saber with a 3.7v setup? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111652206067?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. I also already have a couple of SF chargers so figured this would be compatible.

I ordered some connectors as well with the hope I can add those to a battery http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JST-Male-connector-24AWG-RedBlack-P963.aspx

Silver Serpent
06-25-2015, 04:54 AM
Those batteries will do just fine. The whole issue with international shipping of li-ion batteries is a pain for everyone that doesn't live in the US. The Panasonics are a good reliable brand.

06-27-2015, 02:32 PM
Can I bug you all again to check I understand using a light up momentary switch with a NB2?

The site clearly shows plug the yellow female JST from the NB2 prewired board (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Pre-Wired-Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V2-P835.aspx) into the red/black (un resisted) male JST from the prewired Momentary (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Short-Momentary-16mm-AV-Switch-Nickel-P878.aspx) and warns the highlight LED currently does not have a matching connector.

Can I simply cut the JST off the resisted red/black wires from the switch, splice/solder the black negative together with the other black negative to the activation switch circuit and solder the red positive to that spot on the board?


Jay-gon Jinn
06-27-2015, 03:13 PM
Looks like the way you have it in your picture/diagram would work, but your switch led will be on as long as there is battery voltage/current applied to the board.

06-27-2015, 05:08 PM
I like the idea of the switch being lit when there is power available to start the saber which leads me to the next question when I want the power to be fully off If I set the power up like this will it stop the power drain?


Forgetful Jedi Knight
06-27-2015, 05:15 PM
You would have to have the kill key plugged in to completely kill the power, and basically prevent the drain.

06-27-2015, 06:11 PM
Thanks again to both of you, I think that's how I want my saber to be setup, kill key in and no power at all, kill key out and lit activation switch.

Next question if I am only planning on using the one LED (or an LED with exactly the same resistor requirements) is it normal to solder the resistor in the NB2 wiring harness? And the resistor is on the white wire I hope?


Forgetful Jedi Knight
06-27-2015, 06:16 PM
Resistors normally go on the (+) but would work on either side.