Back to square one

[Nick43107]

1134211343
Well back to Square one i Gotta Rebuild The Bottom end now UUUUUGGGGHH:mad:

[Nick43107]

Okay so on my main channel I have the red LED on the second and third channel I have green and blue, now when I press the Auxiliary switch it switches to green, BUT it's no where near as bright as the RED LED, and the two lighter colors don't work very well cuz there too light of color

[DarthMace]

Check in the configuration file. Make sure the "fled" value is 1500 (the number right next to "fled") Also, it may be helpful to read the section in the board manual about flash on clash, and flash on clash mixing.

[DarthMace]

What happened?

[Noyl Wendor]

@ Nick43107 I'm guessing you had some threads lock up on you? :(

[Nick43107]

The bottom of the hilt isn't long enough to cover the saber chassis, on top of which the tri Cree LED only the red is bright but blue and green aren't as bright and the rest of that is explained in another thread, and yea I haven't trimmed up the wires enough, but I have to have a longer bottom end hilt part or irony have the sturdiness of the hilt

[Nick43107]

Be honest though would it just be easier just to buy a LED like this one11349

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The bottom of the hilt isn't long enough to cover the saber chassis, on top of which the tri Cree LED only the red is bright but blue and green aren't as bright and the rest of that is explained in another thread, and yea I haven't trimmed up the wires enough, but I have to have a longer bottom end hilt part or irony have the sturdiness of the hilt
Which reminds me, you should keep all of your issues with your saber in one thread, it's much easier for us to help you if it's all in one place.

[DarthMace]

Well, that LED only has one color........

Personally, I would try to exhaust all options with my current setup before completely changing it.

[Nick43107]

I know I should exhaust every option, but I'm just curious to see what would work

[Nick43107]

Yea I know I'm sorry, this post was only for having trouble getting the HILt together to be sure is sturdy

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Threads merged - FJK

[Nick43107]

So I got to looking at the manual and this is what I found 11351

[Nick43107]

It's says for "PROPER" color mixing and it even has the same colors I have in the manual RED GREEN BLUE

[Quixotic Jedi]

It's says for "PROPER" color mixing and it even has the same colors I have in the manual RED GREEN BLUE

Okay, I'm new to this thread and a little confused by your issue. I have a question I don't think has been asked yet so here it goes. How did you wire your LED?

You say that you have it wired as in the manual page you posted, but the way that shows is you have the blue led on channel one, the red led on channel two and the green on channel three, which would make the setup blue, red, green and not red, green, blue as you state. It also shows a color Color Extender board, do you have one of those wired into your setup?

I think that in order to help you figure out why your FoC is lighter than your primary blade color we'd have to know how you have your LEDs wired, ie which color is on which channel, and what power levels you have set in your config.txt file, or the levels set in whatever color profile you currently have set for whatever font you're working on. In addtion to that we'd need to know how your focmix is set up, but first things first.

Now, if you can't remember how you wired your LED there's a couple simple tests you can do if you have the RICE program. Or if not it means a lot of swapping your sd card in and out. But that's possibly best left for later.

[Nick43107]

I don't have the color extender, I have the RED LED wired to the main power source for the LED on the sound board, I have the BLUE AND GREEN on the second and third channel that's wired to the LED, I turn the saber on and the green and blue LEDS are more dimmer then the RED LED

[Nick43107]

I do not have my saber wired up like it shows in the manual for the color extender

[Quixotic Jedi]

Ok, now this is starting to make sense. Without the Color Xtender board you won't get true color mixing. You vary your second and third channels using different valued resistors so once you have those calculated for the power levels you want and wired up that's all the power you're gonna get to those two dies. It's a very clunky way to color mix in my opinion. I would suggest you get yourself a CEX and wire it up like in the manual. Then you'll have a much easier time mixing your blade and FoC colors.

I'm not saying it can't be done without the CEX, but it's way simplier with a CEX, and much better in my opinion.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok, now this is starting to make sense. Without the Color Xtender board you won't get true color mixing. You vary your second and third channels using different valued resistors so once you have those calculated for the power levels you want and wired up that's all the power you're gonna get to those two dies. It's a very clunky way to color mix in my opinion. I would suggest you get yourself a CEX and wire it up like in the manual. Then you'll have a much easier time mixing your blade and FoC colors.

I'm not saying it can't be done without the CEX, but it's way simplier with a CEX, and much better in my opinion.

While having a CEX is better, if he has the right resistors on the various LED dice, he should be able to do a decent job color mixing. The key issues are does he have the right resistors on each die AND does he have the configurations set properly.

[Quixotic Jedi]

While having a CEX is better, if he has the right resistors on the various LED dice, he should be able to do a decent job color mixing. The key issues are does he have the right resistors on each die AND does he have the configurations set properly.

Those are the big questions now aren't they.

[Nick43107]

So I need to buy the CEX then correct? 50 bucks won't hurt anything, if anything help me speed the process up on the build

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

So I need to buy the CEX then correct? 50 bucks won't hurt anything, if anything help me speed the process up on the build

Not necessarily, especially given your build's current state. I would start with the questions I posed earlier. What resistors do you have on each die, and what do your configurations look like.

[Nick43107]

The risistor for the red LED is thru the main power For the LED on the board blue and green are ran directly

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The risistor for the red LED is thru the main power For the LED on the board blue and green are ran directly

How about some specific information here. Resistor values, type of battery, etc.???

[Nick43107]

7.4 lithium ion battery no risistors to the the green and blue LED

[Nick43107]

Now how bout if I did not want to have Color mixing option what should I do? Buy a LED with BLUE and white on white???

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

7.4 lithium ion battery no risistors to the the green and blue LED

No wonder the Blue and Green are dim, you likely blew them out. What board are you using (not that it really matters at the moment)?

Edit: Is this the CF7 you mentioned elsewhere?

[Nick43107]

Yes the cf7 sound board is what I'm messing with, and no it wouldn't surprise me if I did blow them, okay so would it be best if it just bought a new LED then since the one I have shot?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yes the cf7 sound board is what I'm messing with, and no it wouldn't surprise me if I did blow them, okay so would it be best if it just bought a new LED then since the one I have shot?

Yes, and this time restore them properly if you are not going to use a CEX. ;)

[Nick43107]

Okay cool, but if I wanted too, could it be possible that I could use the color CEX to increase brightnes or is that not how that works?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Okay cool, but if I wanted too, could it be possible that I could use the color CEX to increase brightnes or is that not how that works?

You can to a small extent, but that's not really how it all works.

[Nick43107]

I'm just trying to get a Feel for what I could possibly do,
What would you recommend, single blue die and 2x white dies OR 2xblue die and 1 white die??

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'm just trying to get a Feel for what I could possibly do,
What would you recommend, single blue die and 2x white dies OR 2xblue die and 1 white die??

Recommend? For what? Color mixing won't really help you out much for a standard 2 color dice / 1 color FoC setup. It also sounds to me like you are not sure what you want for yourself. I strongly recommend that you think about what you want your blade color and FoC color(s) to be and once you have that figured out, we can go from there.

[Nick43107]

Okay but what I'm saying is I don't want color mixing, I just want a Main color with flash on clash, I could careless about color mixing it, but since I had the LED for the color mixing I wanted to try it,
So blue die with white and white or blue 2x die 1x white die.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Okay but what I'm saying is I don't want color mixing, I just want a Main color with flash on clash, I could careless about color mixing it, but since I had the LED for the color mixing I wanted to try it,
So blue die with white and white or blue 2x die 1x white die.

What color main blade do you want? That little piece of information matters.

[Nick43107]

well id like to do blue or ive been thinking about maybe doing yellow but if i cant achieve yellow ill stick to blue

[Jay-gon Jinn]

If you want a blue blade with a white FoC, then use a BBW Tri-Cree or Rebel. For yellow, you'll need to do color mixing to get it...either by using the CF's functions for that (which is much easier) or by using a RGW custom led, and mix the red and green to get yellow.

[Nick43107]

ehhh i think ill just stick with blue with white flash on clash on, im done messing with color mixing..