Design Critique

[darth_chasm]

Hi All,

New to the forum. I wanted to get opinions on the design below while I scour the forums learning. The general plan for the saber is to have blade and sound, mostly display, I may run down the block swinging it at 1am a few times but no dueling.

At this stage, I'm interested in opinions and/or suggestions on the aesthetic. It will most likely receive a nice aging and is meant to be more so on the Dark Side. Color in the image is not final.

I do understand that I'll need to make adjustments once I figure out the guts of it. I have built sink tube sabers with electronics (hilt LEDs, no blade or sound) in the past, so I feel I can move onto something more in depth.

Have at it and don't feel you need to be nice.

11281

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

So far, so good. It will depend on what you decide to put inside. I am curious as to what all of the circles are. I have a good idea of what they are, but I want to hear it from you.

[darth_chasm]

Thanks for the input.

Preliminary planning for fasteners and controls so I can get a sense of what's going on...and in. I don't recall but I don't believe they are entirely accurate size-wise. The three smallest holes are blade retention, and shroud fasteners. Other holes are main switch, aux switch, recharge, and R.I.C.E. Like you said, depends on what I eventually do inside, so I may have to move and/or delete as needed.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yeah, the "whats" are important, as will be the "where" in that design. if those bigger holes are switches, as it stands right now, they wouldn't fit, depending on the switch type.

[darth_chasm]

Definitely a concern. I'll have to do more digging on switch dimensions etc.

My aim is to avoid activation boxes and to get the switches as high up the hilt as possible. While I love the look of the boxes, I don't find them practical for a gripping surface. Perhaps I could offset the holes a bit. I'm not hell bent on their centers being aligned.

Once again, thanks for you feedback. Much appreciated.

[Zacharyah]

I worry about shrouds over choke sections. Great way to get your finger pinched. It looks great, otherwise. I like the emitter

[darth_chasm]

Interesting and valid point Zach. I hadn't thought of that.

I was trying to get some visually interesting details up near the emitter. Maybe moving the vent holes up and only shrouding the emitter is the way to go. I'll have to think on it some.

Thanks for the input.

[darth_chasm]

Here's a revised version. I actually like this much better.
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[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I like it, though the rear shroud work will be a challenge.

[darth_chasm]

Very true.

I figure I have a few options there. I'm leaning toward option 1 so I can get the best piece possible.

1. Ask TCSS to machine it for me
2. Sink tube + Dremel
3. PVC + Dremel
4. 3D Print

[Johannes Huber]

Actually, I don't think that the curving shroud shroud be too bad. The last few shrouds I've done have had strong curving elements (if you want I can send you the links via the board messenger so they don't clutter up the thread)and a lot of the trick that I use is just having a good template (learned from all the generous posters here and elsewhere. The card board "holder tube" on the inside of a toilet paper roll is almost an exact fit for the MHS shroud material so I draw the template there and then mirror the one side so it's symmetrical and away I go...) and that the flex shaft (or dremel) is just for taking it close to the design lines not for cutting exactly to the template. After that, it's just using files and being patient. I've never had good luck using the sink tubes for shrouds but that is just an aesthetic choice, but the shroud material that Tim sells works well, it just takes patience. One could also use a large miter box and a hack saw which I often do for a 45 degree precise angle and that isn't bad either. A little sweat equity but it's so very cool when you finally finish up the shroud yourself that I think it's worth it. I'd say give it a try for yourself and if you run into major trouble (and I certainly have so far on some builds) then see if anyone here can help. Also, I know you like the new version but I really like the first design too, maybe we can convince you to do both. Great designs! Good luck.

P.S. Madcow has a video on making shrouds that should take a lot of the worry out of trying one.

[darth_chasm]

Hi Johannes,

I'd definitely like to see what you have.

Funny, I was RE-watching all of Madcow's videos last night. I've made shrouds in the past in the same way you've described with sink tube and pvc. Same thing, time and patience and the result is not bad, but definitely not ideal. The problem now is that I am very limited on space and tools... tiny NYC apartment. Thats why I'm leaning toward TCSS doing it for me. Yeah it will add cost, but I'm sure to get a great piece out of it.

I still like the first design and may try it one day, but I think this new one may be a little easier for me for a first go at sound.

I'm actually in the middle of revising the second design. I've started mapping out the internals and am getting a good sense of how things can POSSIBLY fit, so Im replacing the 1.15" ID grooved extension with a 1.25" ID blank that I'll ask TCSS to do similar to Hilt Style 3. This way, I can utilize the chassis disc system in the rear hilt. And rather than the activation box, I'm going for two tiny tactile switches utilizing this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-double-tactile-switch-ring-P897.aspx to achieve my original goal of minimal obstructions.

This is definitely a process but I'm loving it!