Saberstaff with core assembly too ambitious?

[Hermitjensen]

Hi, fairly new to saber building (as in never even considered it until last week) so dont 100% have a grasp on what im doing.

My hope/dream for my first saber is double saber (or saberstaff as some call it) with only LEDs for the most part, dont really want sound effects and blades for first build yet (probably will later down the line).
I pretty much figured out a hilt design i want with the MHS builder thing (2 main body parts 2 blade holders and an adapter piece to make it a saberstaff).
My only real concerns with my plan is this...I really want this thing to be detailed and look amazing outside as well as inside...
so i kinda want to make the entire internal structure and electronics be able to be removed as one piece (if possible) with a like "real" crystal chamber that lits up. I got the idea from a video on youtube and i think the person is on these forums. I would like attach the "core assembly" to the coupler/adapter piece so i could just screw the hilt covers on and off over the core. And if its relevant to anything I would really like the blades to be either both yellow (or orange but havent really seen orange LEDs in my searches here) or one yellow and one blue, idk havent really decided yet.

So i guess my main questions are these:
1) what exactly would/should i get/need for the electronics side of this? for instance i know i want 4 LEDs, 2 for the future blades, and maybe two small LEDs (that i can pick up myself) to light up the "crystal chamber". but asides from that i dont know what i should get.

2) is my plan to get a single core assembly valid? will it be too big of a pain?

3) is this way too ambitious for a first build?

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can give to this poor noob of a builder lol always wanted a lightsaber as a kid (who doesnt?) and only recently found out places like this site exist.
If any pictures of my hilt design are required i will gladly try and post it.

[Ty_Bomber]

The g core system you are referring to is rather advanced. As someone with a number of builds under my belt, I can tell you it is beyond my skill. Is it too ambitious as a first build? Perhaps, but that greatly depends on your skill level with machining and electronics. Based on your questions I would wager that this is a new experience for you, in which case I would suggest tempering your expectations. This isn't to discourage you, quite the opposite. But this is something you slowly build towards, developing your knowledge and skills over time with each build until you are comfortable with taking on a project with that level of detail. Trying to accomplish it with a minimal amount of experience can quickly lead to disaster, cost a fortune in wasted time and parts, and turn you off to the whole hobby, which no one wants.

You can do it, but give yourself a few builds to develop that skill set.

[snilam]

I would first tackle a regular build first, then increase your skill and move forward. You can always recyle parts for future builds. Also not only does it take some amount of experience and knowledge but also some metal working equipment you may or may not have to pull off the more advanced builds. If you were wanting a reveal saber i would maybe suggest doing just a partial reveal with the chassis parts available in the store.

[Hermitjensen]

yeah i figured the g core thing was a bit ambitious for my level lol something to toy around with once i actually build the hilt itself i guess.
and thanks for the tip about the chassis parts, didnt really know/understand what that was now i have a pretty good idea, and that actually fits the image in my head for what i want i think.
So scratch the plans for the g-core system for time being. gotcha
So then just original question of the LED electronics. What specifically do i need? for 2 blade LEDs and two smaller LEDs (and just saw it in shop, but is it worth getting two of the LED module things instead of building it myself?), im guessing a battery pack/holder, and a button, anything else?

and one more question since i forgot in original post. The amber LEDs, are they considered yellow-ish? and im guessing the Red-orange LEDs are more red then orange?

[Ty_Bomber]

You will need the LEDs for each blade, like the crees or the rebels (crees are much brighter, BTW). I would suggest learning to wire it yourself. A single die led is easy enough. You'll need star thermal tape for each led, a lenses for each led, and a heatsink.

For the accent LEDs, small 5mm yellow LEDs would do just fine. Tim sells them in the store. You could also source some 5mm LEDs off site, but I will allow you to source those yourself.

Amber is a little warmer than yellow. More goldish in the crees, more orangish in the rebels. True yellow is usually done by mixing red and green LEDs in a tri star, but you'd have try different resistors to find tune it to the shade of yellow you want. Red orange is really just red. Like lava red, with very little orange.

[Hermitjensen]

Thanks for the info!

So i guess i'll go with the amber crees and and probably some off site LEDs (once in shop not exactly style i want).

Now my electronics math is a bit rusty so, what battery pack should i go with to adequately power 2 crees (just forget about 2 other LEDs for now)? not really thinking of going with one of the rechargeable kind, unless there is a very specific benefit to them?
If my math is right (which it probably isnt lol) a 4 AA battery pack would work? unless a AAA one is better? im going to admit i dont know current output of batteries very well.

[Ty_Bomber]

If you're going with the single crees, I would opt for 2 18650 batteries, one for each led. At 3.7 volts, you would need a resistor for the amber dice, probably a 1 or 2 watt. Add a couple latching switches., battery holders, and a charger and you're done.

[Hermitjensen]

Sweet think i have everything i need in basket now, now to wait till i can afford that which hopefully will be soon once finals are over lol.

Thank you so much for putting up with my endless questions lol and providing great information!
Once i get the parts and put it together (barring me not messing that up horribly lol) ill try and put a picture up.

[Hermitjensen]

Ok i hate to bring this back but...
Is there an advantage to the 18650 battery over just using AA or AAA battery packs?
Im only worried about the cost and all, just trying to see if i can slim things down a bit, and between $42 for batteries and charger vs like $3 for AAs... i would prefer the AA/AAA but unless there is a something i dont know about the difference/performance between them?

(and if in fact there isnt a problem with AA/AAA, would i need a new resistor value to make this work correctly?)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, they last longer, are rechargeable, they can have a much longer run time, etc. etc.

[DarthMace]

Well, the only real benifit of Li-ion batteries is that you can recharge them, and they take up less space. Since this build doesn't have sound you should be fine using 2 AAs per amber LED.

Yes, you will need a different resistor with the AA batteries. Here is a good calculator: http://ledcalc.com/ Set the input voltage to 3 volts, and the LED voltage to 2 volts, with 1000ma of current.

I calculated that you will need a 1.2 Ohm, 2 watt resistor for each LED.

[Hermitjensen]

ok thank you guys for the info and speedy response!
Will probably go with that then.

I must say i love this community already lol. Very nice, informative, and quick to help.

[TwinMill]

In your first post, you said you weren't interested in blades just yet.
Are you planning on or have you bought a couple hilt safety plugs?
(You know, to avoid blinding yourself / other people)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-Hilt-safety-plug-P571.aspx

[Hermitjensen]

Yeah i did remember those...but now im conflicted on either the blades or plugs...or both.
At this point i really just want to get the blades so i might just go that route instead.

[DarthMace]

I would go ahead and get the blades. It will save on shipping in the long run, and you will want to actually swing the saber around, after all that work you put into it. :)

[Hermitjensen]

My thoughts exactly :)
may get plugs too for when just showing i off to friends around campus without blades.

quick question, you say i need 1.2 ohm 2 watt resistors. I only see 1.2 ohm 3 watt resistors in store (unless im blind) would those work the same? just not sure of the wattage rating changes things or if thats just its limit.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

My thoughts exactly :)
may get plugs too for when just showing i off to friends around campus without blades.

quick question, you say i need 1.2 ohm 2 watt resistors. I only see 1.2 ohm 3 watt resistors in store (unless im blind) would those work the same? just not sure of the wattage rating changes things or if thats just its limit.

The wattage would be a minimum. You would be fine with a 3W resistor.

[Hermitjensen]

ok thank you, thats what i thought but wanted to be sure.

now that blades were mentioned i have to ask...difference in corbin style and the TCSS ones?
and what the quad and double wrap mean?
and so far my hilt is 18.25in and i believe im set on getting 26in blades? is that about right for a staff?

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Since you seem to be building a resistored stunt that does not have a soundboard/driver the Corbin blade style would not give you any functional advantage now, but might if you upgrade later.

FYI: the Corbin style blades have a special striated diffuser film [originally produced by Corbin Das] inside which, in combination with a soundcard/LED driver capable of Pulse Width Modulation dimming of the LED, can produce a kind of pseudo extend/retract illusion [more visible with the pseudo-retract imo]...the TCSS style blades have a translucent plastic diffuser tube inside instead of the Corbin film.

The quad and double wrap refers to how many layers or 'wraps around' inside the blade tube for the Corbin film in Corbin style blades. Some people using Corbin style blades like the stronger 'core effect' and bright base-flare of light near the bladeholder with a double-wrap that simulates the look of Original Trilogy movie posters but others prefer the greater evenness in light brightness down through the length of the blade and less bright base flare of a quad-wrap.

Other people prefer the TCSS style blade and yet others prefer a translucent white polycarbonate blade instead of clear poly-c with diffuser...its mostly a matter of personal aesthetic taste really.

[Hermitjensen]

Ok, sorry to kick another dead horse but just wanted to ask one last question before the sale.

For this saber staff im attempting, i am planning to get the coupler that has slots to see through, and I have a (strangely shaped) quartz crystal and a 5mm blue LED.
Now if i did my math right which most likely i didnt lol
If i used a 6v, 4 AA (or AAA) battery setup for one half of the saber only, could i run that blue 5mm LED with a 100ohm resistor and the cree with a 3.9 ohm resistor in parallel? or did i use that LED calculator (and my knowledge of electronics) incorrectly?
I just want to give this saber something besides the blades to light up and this was the first to come to mind.