Advice needed - simple rechargeable circuit with port, light up switch + LED.

[adamhebbard]

Hi everyone.

I'm new here and I'm planning do to a custom saber build. Powder coating is too expensive for me atm so I'm going to leave that one at bay.

I want to have a circuit that contains:

1 x 4 x AA Battery holder (mountable)

1 x recharge port

1 x Light up latching switch

1 x Rebel Star basic Blue LED

I am hoping to do it using the MWS and all JST connected. This way I can have the LED emitter switchable and change the colour of the blade quite quickly if needed.

Do I need anything else? It'd be great to hear some advice.

Many thanks in advance.

Adam H

[solaren]

Welcome to the forums!

You're going to need either a resistor (cheaper, doesn't come in MWS) or 1000mA BuckPuck (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-BuckPuck--P748.aspx) (better, especially for swapping LEDs).

Also, the CREE LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cree-Star-LED-MHSV1-Heatsink-Module-P998.aspx) modules are far brighter than the Rebels and can all run on the same mA, red rebels can only handle 700mA (if that is a possible color you would switch to later).

Typically using 4xAA you replace the batteries when they drain or pull them out to charge in whatever charger they came with. I'm not sure if the MWS recharge port can be substituted for that charger, it is meant for the Li-ion batteries sold in the store (you would need to find a source in the UK as these can't be shipped internationally). Probably easier to just drop the recharge port from your build if you have rechargeable AAs for now and maybe upgrade later.

[adamhebbard]

Hi Solaren,

Thanks for your response! I didn't get an email notification haha. I would be happier getting a Li-ion battery and having a recharge port to avoid constantly replacing or externally recharging the batteries.

Thanks for the tip on the CREE LEDs, they seem like a better choice. Also, I think I've read somewhere that the buckpuck keeps the LED bright and then cuts the power when it runs out instead of gradually letting it fade?

With a buckpuck, Ion battery set up, switch, recharge port and an LED, how complicated is the wiring going to be? I'm struggling to get my head around it atm. Also, the switch box I have chosen doesn't seem to hold anything other than the AV lightup switches, which is fine expect I don't know how to wire them...

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

thanks,

A

[solaren]

Also, I think I've read somewhere that the BuckPuck keeps the LED bright and then cuts the power when it runs out instead of gradually letting it fade?


This is correct, the buckpuck provides a constant current until your battery can no longer support it.



With a buckpuck, Ion battery set up, switch, recharge port and an LED, how complicated is the wiring going to be? I'm struggling to get my head around it atm. Also, the switch box I have chosen doesn't seem to hold anything other than the AV lightup switches, which is fine expect I don't know how to wire them...


All the parts you need come with MWS wiring, the BuckPuck page I linked previously lists all the connections pre-wired, which includes recharge and Accent LED switches. The best thing to do is draw up a diagram using the part photos as a guide and have members check it over for you.

Good luck, and keep asking any questions you need. We love to help!

[adamhebbard]

That's really useful, thanks! Looks like I'll go for a buck puck, except they're out of stock :( Any idea how long it takes for them to be back in?

Looking at the buckpuck, I see exactly how it works now, except for the ARES part. Can you enlighten me at all? I must say, I love the wishlist system so you can save it while you're logged out, it's soo useful for making, saving and keeping a shopping list. I'm choosing parts that are in stock at the moment, so everything except the buckpuck is available.

With the 4 x AA battery holder, will I be able to wire that up and put standard rechargeable AAs in it, or will that cause issues? If it will, are there any Li-Ion batteries that have a mounting like the 4 X AA battery pack?

[adamhebbard]

I've been looking at the buck puck in more detail. I am planning to use this switch.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Long-Latching-16mm-AV-Switch-Nickel-P901.aspx

At the bottom it says - You will need to jumper the accent LED resistor screw terminals with a piece of wire.

I have drafted a very basic wiring diagram. Where would the above line come into this?

Pic below

11181

Thanks again in advance!

[Silver Serpent]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/MWSBPc.jpg

Just connect the two ARES terminals together with a small piece of wire. The prewired switch has a DynaOhm resistor, and you won't need an additional one for the switch LED.

[adamhebbard]

That's awesome! Many thanks. I think I'm nearly ready to order. I'm not getting any powder coating but I might wrap the main handle in leather when it's built just for grip and to differentiate the colour and looks. What do you reckon?

[Silver Serpent]

I've seen a few sabers with leather wrapped hilts. Done right, it makes for a fantastic look. Go for it.

[adamhebbard]

Thanks! I only have one question now. With regards to batteries, can I use 4 x rechargeable AA batteries in this circuit, held in the mountable holder with jst connections, and charge the whole thing without it being taken apart?

[Silver Serpent]

NiMH can be recharged in-hilt using the battery holder. Be advised that if the holder doesn't hold the batteries firmly and make good connection, you may have difficulty charging the batteries. It is safer to remove them first, but not mandatory.

[adamhebbard]

So would a DIY way of securing them to be to tape them into the holder perhaps? With insulating tape obviously. Thanks

[Silver Serpent]

A velcro strap is a good solution. Some holders will hold batteries tighter than others, and they get looser over time.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Thanks! I only have one question now. With regards to batteries, can I use 4 x rechargeable AA batteries in this circuit, held in the mountable holder with jst connections, and charge the whole thing without it being taken apart?

Just an FYI, a buckpuck requires a minimum of 5 volts to operate, and the nominal voltage of 4 nimh cells is 4.8.