im so lost

[minamus]

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I'm very lost on what to do here because i'm very dumb when it comes to wiring. I just pulled these out of an old ultrasaber i had and i don't know what the sound board is. I also could not figure out what i needed as far as resistors and how to add the new type of switch.

Here's how it was setup inside the saber.
Grey cable went to the non-led momentary switch
black and red went to purple LED.

Here's what i want to do.
New Rebel star blue LED instead of purple
Green LED momentary switch.

Since i dont understand the board and dont want to mess with it i'll just use what cables are already there to hook up the new stuff.
I know the 2 grey wires will still go to the activator part of the switch but what would i need to do and what resistor if any do i need for the green momentary switch LED part of the hookups. I also know the ground wire will not change other then adding a extra wire to it for the switch but what would i need to add in terms of resistor and anything else for the new blue LED? Also should i do a split off of the positive wire for one to the switch and one to the blade LED?

I've been trying to figure this out but i just got stumped and dont want to burn either LED out.

I also know nothing of what that green thing is on the positive wire but it says 5RO 5% 5W What is this and do i need it?

[Whi-ja]

That green thing is a resistor that keeps the LED from burning out. You'll need one for your new LED as well - or multiple resistors for the POS connection on each one. If you want a lighted switch, you'll need to resistor that LED as well. Keep in mind your new blue LED (I wd go with royal blue Cree sold here - much brighter - but up to you) requires something like 3.3V and around 1000 milliamps (mA) of current. But the switch LED will use closer to 2.5V and 20mA. It varies depending on the switch, and I'd have to look it up to know exactly for yours is your switch one you bought here at TCSS? Use this chart for the LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/resistor.aspx

Put the resistor for the Luxeon (or Cree) on the red wire between the board and the new blue LED. Connect the black wire to the blue LED "-" pad.

The
Use a resistor calculator like this for the switch: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

The switch LED should have four posts: two marked + and -, and two unmarked. The unmarked posts are to your circuit (the grey wires, it sounds like). The + post goes to your battery (or to the positive on the recharge port if you have one), and the "-" goes EITHER to the post on the recharge port that connects to your board OR if you have no recharge port, it will go to the neg on the battery (there are other ways to do it, but this is simplest for a newbie).

Be aware: the switch LED will be lit whenever your kill key is removed, so it'll draw power and kill your battery fast if you don't have a recharge port/ kill key or some other way to disconnect the battery while the saber is not in use.

Good luck!

[minamus]

The current switch came with the ultrasaber and its just a normal un lighted switch because it was a base model. But what is weird is that there is another resistor right next to the rebel star currently so why would there be another green one as well? You lost me on the kill switch part too?

[Whi-ja]

Okay. Kill switch first. Do you have an in-hilt recharging port in the saber, or do you take the batteries out to charge them?

Think of the blue Luxeon as a big, 60W light bulb. Very bright, eats a lot of power.
Think of the LED in your switch as a little light bulb, 25W, for instance. You have to power them from a battery; you can't plug them into the wall. There is a switch that turns on the 60w bulb (when you turn on your saber). But you want to have a second switch to deny power ("kill") the LED in the switch, or that little light, small as it is, will kill your batteries pretty fast even though it doesn't put off a lot of light, it's still eating the current stored in the battery. If you have a recharge port, then ou want to wire the switch one way. If you don't, you'll have to donut another way.

So, first, do you have an in-hilt recharge port?

As for the resistor, I can't look at the saber from here, but the builder may limit the total POSSIBLE power to the LED with the green resistor in the red wire, and then the second resistor near the LED might fine-tune it for each particular LED. Not the way I'd do it, but it sounds like that's what you've got. There is a way to calculate resistors in series or in parallel, but rather than throw formulas at you, I will suggest that you cut out both resistors and then get out your multimeter and measure the voltage moving between the red and black wires, and adjust your resistor calculations accordingly.

[minamus]

No it will just be regular batteries or rechargeable. No charge port and just aa batteries. I didn't know about the kill switch needed for it I thought the board would handle it lol.

[Whi-ja]

Okay. Then the new switch w/ the LED should have four posts: two marked + and -, and two unmarked. The unmarked posts are to your circuit (the grey wires, it sounds like). The + post goes to your battery, and the "-" goes to the neg on the battery (there are other ways to do it, but this is simplest for a newbie). You cd also run the negative wire from the switch LED to the pad where the neg wire from the battery pack connects to the board.

[minamus]

Ok so what I was thinking of doing is making a split for both the negative and positive writes from the board 1 each to the switch led and blade led. And on each positive the correct resistor for each. Would this be a problem?

[minamus]

Or would i have to wire it to be a series from the switch led to the blade led?