AAA battery holder question

[FencerScott]

Hi all, I'm a first time builder. I'm so glad I found this forum! But there's one question I can't find the answer to, either here or on the TCSS store page.

I'm using 1" pvc pipe for the central portion of my saber, with 1 1/4" Pipe sections for overlay details. It's going to be a simple build, with only battery holder, LED, switch and resistor. Depending on how it turns out, I may upgrade to sound later.

Anyway, I can't find the dimensions of the 4AAA battery holders. Will any of them fit within a 1" inner diameter PVC pipe? Or do I have to solder two 2AAA holders together? I've soldered before, but never two battery holders, so I'm a little apprehensive about that ...

Thanks in advance, and like I said, I'm glad I found this place - lots of great ideas and tutorials here!

FencerScott

[Silver Serpent]

You can fit a 3AAA battery holder in a 1" PVC pipe. I don't believe you can fit a 4AAA pack in there unless they're in a 2x2 configuration.

If you have to go in a 2x2 setup, I'd upgrade to AA for more runtime. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AA-Battery-holder--P134.aspx will work nicely.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I happen to have both of those parts here and unfortunately, no the battery pack does not fit inside the 1" i.d. pvc. The 4AAA holder is too wide across the corners, and it doesn't look like you could remove enough material from the corners to make it fit without getting to the spring contacts. you may have to use the two 2AAA holder solution you suggested, or you could step up to a rechargeable battery pack.

[Thalan the Exiled]

Yeah your best bet is to go with a 7.4v li-ion pack. You will get better run time. And if you can get away with a single 18650/18500 you can save a ton of space. I used a 18650 in my PVC saber which is mainly 1" pipe and I have enough room in there for a ton more stuff.

[FencerScott]

Thanks so much! You're saving me a ton of grief and money in ordering parts. So, if I build with a Li-ion pack, I'll need to work in a recharge port, too, right?

I'm marking off places for set screws and the blade holder at the moment. If I understand other posts on this forum, I should allow 1 1/2 inches of depth for the blade holder, another couple of inches for the LED assembly (lens, heat sink, lens holder, and blade stop), and 4 inches for the 2x2 AA battery holder, or however long the 18650 is. Do those measurements seem about right?

Again, thanks. I was inspired to do this after my 4 year old did the "build your own lightsaber" thing at Disney World and then I saw Jay-gon's PVC saber instructions on Pinterest. I think I'm going to be addicted to this, once I figure out what I'm doing!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

My pvc saber tutorial is on pinterest? Interesting. I've never posted it there, must be someone else did.

[FencerScott]

They must have. I found it here:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/470204017320571862/

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Nope...not my tutorial. Mime is here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?3266-Jay-gon-s-PVC-Hilts-Full-tutorial-on-last-page&p=138540&viewfull=1#post138540

[FencerScott]

Oh, my bad. I found both of them almost at the same time. Must have been confused. Sorry. :(

[Jay-gon Jinn]

No worries...that's a good tutorial, more in-depth than the one I wrote.

[FencerScott]

If you don't mind me asking, I was looking again at your tutorial for PVC sabers for children. You run a Rebel star at 350ma off 2 AAA with a resistor. TCSS says amber lux rebels should be run at 700ma. Like I said, I'm brand new at working with LEDs, and I'm wondering if running them at half capacity shortens the life of the LED or has any other adverse effects, other than a dimmer blade. Your picture at the end looks pretty bright.

I'm probably going to be making a PVC saber soon for my son, and I'm wondering if I should go the same route with his when I do.

Thanks again.

[Silver Serpent]

It's a pretty old tutorial. Some of the older LEDs were rated at 350 mA, but could be driven much higher for more brightness. Even some of the current LEDs will list ratings at 350mA. The difference is less light, less heat, and a little longer lifespan for the LED.

For a child's saber, you don't want it stupidly bright if the blade is removable. Kids WILL shine the naked LED in their eyes (or someone else's eyes) and possibly cause damage. My son's PVC saber has the blade semi-permanently attached with a set screw so that he doesn't hurt his eyes.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yep, what Silver Serpent said...I used those at 350ma because of the safety issue with kids. also, those didn't use resistors, but a micropuck driver that maintained a constant current of 350ma over the life of the batteries. It was more expensive thatn resistors, but also solved the problem of not being able to fit anything larger than a 2-AAA holder in them.