Ulic Ramirez
03-03-2015, 09:32 PM
After several failed wiring configurations, I finally finished my Shoto lightsaber build. Here are some things I learned along the way that others might find useful if they want to build a Shoto.
First a couple of pictures of the wiring-
10950
10951
Helpful tips-
1- Target blade and hilt lengths: A Shoto is a small blade used in the off hand to compliment the main lightsaber similar to a large Tanto or Wakizashi. The blade length should range between 12 and 24 inches. The hilt length should be 8-10 inches. Any larger and it enters the territory of a full size saber. Any smaller and the hilt will have trouble holding the electronics.
2- Resistor: Space is very limited. The 10 watt resistor that the store sells is recommended for a standard size hilt. For a Shoto, you will want a 3 watt or 5 watt resistor.
3- Wiring: For the length that is necessary to change the batteries, I recommend speaker wire. It has better flexibility and won?t fight you as much. I used 24 gauge speaker wire.
4- Components mounted into pommels without MPS inserts: Switches attached to a pommel without a MPS insert (Pommel style 1 & 2) will mean that the batteries will have to come out with the LED housing by removing the blade holder. Trying to remove the batteries through the pommel or any of the remaining joints will require twisting the wires which will eventually lead to them breaking. I have not yet built a saber using a MPS Pommel, so I don?t know if they have the same problem or if the insert can rotate freely.
5- Final assembly: I used the strongest double sided tape that 3M makes to attach the non-wire end of the battery holder to the heat sink thus creating a pseudo chassis. Some electrical tape was used to secure wires alongside the battery holder. I threaded the majority of the parts through my pre cut insulation tubing and aluminum body before attaching the lens, lens holder and the aluminum cap that houses the LED. To attach the body, I put the LED housing face down on the table, held the pommel suspended stationary with my left hand, and used my right hand to twist the remaining aluminum body parts into place. This kept the wires from moving during final assembly. With some minor planned twisting (? to ? of a turn) of the speaker wire, the remaining parts were gently inserted. Once the blade holder was screwed on, it was finished.
Here is what the finished saber looks like. 8? hilt with 16? blade (14.5? after subtracting what the blade holder covers).
10949
Thanks again to Silver Serpent and Cire Yeldarb for checking my parts list and Madcow for the how-to videos. Big thanks to Tim and TCSS for offering such an amazing range of products and services. Media blasting was a great alternative to powder coating for my first DIY saber. Looks like I am definitely done with buying pre-fab sabers elsewhere, yay!
I hope this was all useful.
First a couple of pictures of the wiring-
10950
10951
Helpful tips-
1- Target blade and hilt lengths: A Shoto is a small blade used in the off hand to compliment the main lightsaber similar to a large Tanto or Wakizashi. The blade length should range between 12 and 24 inches. The hilt length should be 8-10 inches. Any larger and it enters the territory of a full size saber. Any smaller and the hilt will have trouble holding the electronics.
2- Resistor: Space is very limited. The 10 watt resistor that the store sells is recommended for a standard size hilt. For a Shoto, you will want a 3 watt or 5 watt resistor.
3- Wiring: For the length that is necessary to change the batteries, I recommend speaker wire. It has better flexibility and won?t fight you as much. I used 24 gauge speaker wire.
4- Components mounted into pommels without MPS inserts: Switches attached to a pommel without a MPS insert (Pommel style 1 & 2) will mean that the batteries will have to come out with the LED housing by removing the blade holder. Trying to remove the batteries through the pommel or any of the remaining joints will require twisting the wires which will eventually lead to them breaking. I have not yet built a saber using a MPS Pommel, so I don?t know if they have the same problem or if the insert can rotate freely.
5- Final assembly: I used the strongest double sided tape that 3M makes to attach the non-wire end of the battery holder to the heat sink thus creating a pseudo chassis. Some electrical tape was used to secure wires alongside the battery holder. I threaded the majority of the parts through my pre cut insulation tubing and aluminum body before attaching the lens, lens holder and the aluminum cap that houses the LED. To attach the body, I put the LED housing face down on the table, held the pommel suspended stationary with my left hand, and used my right hand to twist the remaining aluminum body parts into place. This kept the wires from moving during final assembly. With some minor planned twisting (? to ? of a turn) of the speaker wire, the remaining parts were gently inserted. Once the blade holder was screwed on, it was finished.
Here is what the finished saber looks like. 8? hilt with 16? blade (14.5? after subtracting what the blade holder covers).
10949
Thanks again to Silver Serpent and Cire Yeldarb for checking my parts list and Madcow for the how-to videos. Big thanks to Tim and TCSS for offering such an amazing range of products and services. Media blasting was a great alternative to powder coating for my first DIY saber. Looks like I am definitely done with buying pre-fab sabers elsewhere, yay!
I hope this was all useful.