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View Full Version : Ulic Ramirez's Saboteur (Shoto Basic Stunt Saber)



Ulic Ramirez
03-03-2015, 09:32 PM
After several failed wiring configurations, I finally finished my Shoto lightsaber build. Here are some things I learned along the way that others might find useful if they want to build a Shoto.

First a couple of pictures of the wiring-
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Helpful tips-
1- Target blade and hilt lengths: A Shoto is a small blade used in the off hand to compliment the main lightsaber similar to a large Tanto or Wakizashi. The blade length should range between 12 and 24 inches. The hilt length should be 8-10 inches. Any larger and it enters the territory of a full size saber. Any smaller and the hilt will have trouble holding the electronics.
2- Resistor: Space is very limited. The 10 watt resistor that the store sells is recommended for a standard size hilt. For a Shoto, you will want a 3 watt or 5 watt resistor.
3- Wiring: For the length that is necessary to change the batteries, I recommend speaker wire. It has better flexibility and won?t fight you as much. I used 24 gauge speaker wire.
4- Components mounted into pommels without MPS inserts: Switches attached to a pommel without a MPS insert (Pommel style 1 & 2) will mean that the batteries will have to come out with the LED housing by removing the blade holder. Trying to remove the batteries through the pommel or any of the remaining joints will require twisting the wires which will eventually lead to them breaking. I have not yet built a saber using a MPS Pommel, so I don?t know if they have the same problem or if the insert can rotate freely.
5- Final assembly: I used the strongest double sided tape that 3M makes to attach the non-wire end of the battery holder to the heat sink thus creating a pseudo chassis. Some electrical tape was used to secure wires alongside the battery holder. I threaded the majority of the parts through my pre cut insulation tubing and aluminum body before attaching the lens, lens holder and the aluminum cap that houses the LED. To attach the body, I put the LED housing face down on the table, held the pommel suspended stationary with my left hand, and used my right hand to twist the remaining aluminum body parts into place. This kept the wires from moving during final assembly. With some minor planned twisting (? to ? of a turn) of the speaker wire, the remaining parts were gently inserted. Once the blade holder was screwed on, it was finished.

Here is what the finished saber looks like. 8? hilt with 16? blade (14.5? after subtracting what the blade holder covers).
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Thanks again to Silver Serpent and Cire Yeldarb for checking my parts list and Madcow for the how-to videos. Big thanks to Tim and TCSS for offering such an amazing range of products and services. Media blasting was a great alternative to powder coating for my first DIY saber. Looks like I am definitely done with buying pre-fab sabers elsewhere, yay!

I hope this was all useful.

Askew Wai
03-04-2015, 04:00 AM
That's a great looking saber! Great choice of parts. The pommel looks like an eyeball.

Starwinder
03-04-2015, 06:43 AM
Nice job and great look with the media blasting.

JediCarpet
03-04-2015, 07:01 AM
I like the texture and the rings that offset it. The blue blade goes well with it.

I built a shoto myself recently and I used the MPS with the AV switch on the bottom, mostly to match my on side saber. It does rotate fairly freely, but because I had to drill holes in the pommel insert to let the sound through (used an old kenner sound board. Might swap out for a Hasbro) there are some rough drill points that I need to take the dremmel to...right now it sticks, but if I use something to hold it I can take the pommel off without twisting the wires. That's why I went for that style vs the one you did. I also had to put a small length of pipe over the bottom of the switch to raise the nut up so the nut wouldn't catch on the thing that holds the insert in. And the nut has lock-tight on it, which is why I didn't take the insert out to drill more holes in it and why I currently have the sticky insert problem :)


When you say 12-24" are you measuring the length of the entire tube or the length of what extends out of the saber?

Yoshi-Taka
03-04-2015, 08:16 AM
Ahh, media blasting.. my oldest ally in this hobby.

Looks good. The trim rings are a nice touch.

craig139
03-04-2015, 09:53 AM
Nice saber! OUt of curiosity, why use the resistor rather than a Buckpuck? And what is media blasting?

Ulic Ramirez
03-05-2015, 03:45 AM
When you say 12-24" are you measuring the length of the entire tube or the length of what extends out of the saber?

I am counting the length that extends from the saber. Of course I am only going with some of the generally accepted definitions as well as my opinion. If the blade was shorter than 12 in. then it would probably be considered a light-knife and would also need a shorter hilt (a 10 inch blade might look a bit silly on a 8 inch hilt) and proportionally redesigned electronics. A blade of just over 24 inches might be considered appropriate for a youngling, a jedi of slightly shorter stature, or a jedi seeking slightly more mobility and dexterity than the full size saber offers.

Perhaps the best test of a Shoto's appropriate blade sizing would be a "pass through test". Holding the saber in the off-hand with an inverted grip, swing the blade under your extended off-hand arm. If it clears easily without striking your torso, then you are good to go. Hopefully, nobody trying this test has tyrannosaurus arms, because even a light-knife will fail with that reach :D

Nice to know that the MPS inserts naturally rotate freely. It will help with my next saber which will probably have a pommel mounted recharge port.

Ulic Ramirez
03-05-2015, 04:30 AM
Nice saber! Out of curiosity, why use the resistor rather than a Buckpuck? And what is media blasting?

Many considerations to take into account for the resistor decision.
1- Internal space available: The resistor is smaller and allows for better flexibility for getting everything inside the saber. I had less than 6 inches of space available.
2- Battery life versus an even brightness, and how this relates to battery types: Resistors allow for a more complete draining of the batteries with the blade dimming near the end of battery life. Whereas BuckPucks allow for more consistent brightness, but also don't allow you to completely drain the batteries. Since I decided to use Alkaline batteries, the resistor was the better choice to ensure that I wasn't tossing out batteries with salvageable juice still in them. If I had used a rechargeable 7.4v Li-ion battery, then I would probably go with a BuckPuck.
3- Cost: After realizing that I might not get things right on the first try, the Alkaline batteries with resistor option seemed less risky. Also they are proportionally matched cost wise, as is the combination of Li-ion with BuckPuck. Pairing Li-ion & Resistor or Alkaline & BuckPuck seems quite unbalanced.
4- This was my first DIY saber. I wanted to go old school with wiring to refresh my soldering skills before taking on anything more ambitious.

Media blasting is the process that takes the glossy surface of the bare aluminum and turns it into a gritty matte finish. It changes both the texture and the light reflective qualities of the bare metal. In a way, it is like a non-paint paint job. I think it is done with water and grit (sand?) or possibly solvents (acid?)--though I am not entirely certain. All I do know for certain is that I like the results.

8-)

craig139
03-05-2015, 05:27 PM
Thanks!