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airsoftmode
12-04-2006, 02:50 PM
Hey, i picked up a mace windu hasbro saber and took the sound driver, motion sensor, speaker, and clash detector out. I was wondering, can I use the leads that normally powered the hasbro lightbulb to power my led? And if so will I need a resistor between the LED and the sound board to regulate voltage. FYI I want to use a 5w blue led in my saber and that requires aprox 6.8 forward voltage for optimal brightness. O one last question, which battery holder should i use, it has to fit in the MHS. Thanks a lot for the insight guys.

Firebird21
12-04-2006, 03:18 PM
You can't run it off of that Sound Board, but can should run a relay with that setup. Do-Clo can fill you in on all of that info.

As far as the battery in concerned, I would suggest the battery pack Tim sells and installing a recharge port. (After spending $40 in non-rechargables I'm never going back) Or a 4AAA battery holder with rechargeable batteries.

Info on Recharge Ports (http://thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1732&highlight=recharge+ports)


As for the exact power requirements of the 5w LED I am not the one to ask. James and Do-Clo have more knowledge in that area. But I think that Tim’s pack will be sufficient.

Edited to remove my own stupidity.

xwingband
12-04-2006, 03:20 PM
You will not be able to power the 5W with the Hasbro. Sometimes you can dispense with a resistor and have the Hasbro power it, like with a 1W or 3W, but there is no way the board will take that much voltage that is needed for the 5W.

You are going to need a voltage regulator to bring the voltage down or a seperate power pack all together for the Hasbro. In fact a seperate one is the best solution for wasting less batteries throwing off heat (a regulator will get hot). Hasbro's are extremely finicky when pushed past their normal voltages.

AAA's in a square fit fine. AA's can only be three in a triangle or two across. 9v's fit fine.

Jedi Belinos
12-04-2006, 03:20 PM
simple answer is no the mace board will not drive a 5w LED. check out this thread (http://thecustomsa.web133.discountasp.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=581&start=270). This will give you a longer answer.

Basicaly this board will only handle 3v and power a 1w LED or bulb.

airsoftmode
12-04-2006, 03:54 PM
ok.... bummer, so it looks like my best option would be a seperate power supply for the board and my led, is there any way i can wire the switch tim sells to complete both circuits at the same time, so i can turn the led and sound on with one switc? Also would 2 9v batteries be able to power the led and the board (so basically one 9v for each)?

Firebird21
12-04-2006, 04:21 PM
is there any way i can wire the switch tim sells to complete both circuits at the same time, so i can turn the led and sound on with one switc?


With a relay.

Jedi Belinos
12-04-2006, 05:03 PM
Also would 2 9v batteries be able to power the led and the board (so basically one 9v for each)?

You don't want to put any more than 3v on that soundboard.

airsoftmode
12-04-2006, 08:53 PM
ok, whats a relay?

xwingband
12-04-2006, 08:59 PM
Does the Mace board have the flash on clash? If so, don't worry about it. The relay wouldn't work that way.

Firebird21
12-04-2006, 09:04 PM
ok, whats a relay?


A Relay uses the power from one power source to apply power to a device using another power source. An electronic switch.

Example: You can use the sound board to control the relay, the relay switches on the power directly from the battery to the LED.

Jedi Belinos
12-04-2006, 09:14 PM
It sure does have the flash on clash. I would just look under the hasbro sound board thread that I linked to earlier and see how James3 wired his up. This is the way mine will be wired in shortly. Basically you end up with the wire that went to the bulb just being there or you can just take it off completely.

Firebird21
12-04-2006, 09:17 PM
...the wire that went to the bulb just being there or you can just take it off completely.



I wouldn't do that for one reason... It makes it difficult to change your mind later and use the board for something else. It's a PITA to try and solder the wires back onto the board when it's not necessary. Just my $.02.

airsoftmode
12-04-2006, 10:43 PM
ok its ghetto but i figured out what im going to do thanks to your advice. Im gonna use two completely dif circuits for the led and sound, and im going to put resistors in both so i can use 4aaa for the sound board and a 9v for the 5w LED (its gonna be a tight squeeze for sure) And ill put two of tims switches in line with eachother so i can put an activation box over them and attatch a plate so i can turn both switches on with one press. Ok thoughts?

Jedi Belinos
12-04-2006, 11:08 PM
I really wouldn't use 4aaas on the sound board. Two is plenty. It won't really like more than 3v anyway. If you search around I am sure you will find many stories of people frying these boards by using to many batteries.

james3
12-05-2006, 06:29 AM
ok its ghetto but i figured out what im going to do thanks to your advice. Im gonna use two completely dif circuits for the led and sound, and im going to put resistors in both so i can use 4aaa for the sound board and a 9v for the 5w LED (its gonna be a tight squeeze for sure) And ill put two of tims switches in line with eachother so i can put an activation box over them and attatch a plate so i can turn both switches on with one press. Ok thoughts?


http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wtf.gif

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_crazyhair.gif

First of all 6 volts to a Hasbro is just asking to fry it.
Second, using a 9 volt to run a 5w Luxeon works but you will be changing batteries every 15 minutes.
Third, Two switches are not needed unless that is just what you want. I use two so that I can play with the saber and not be distracted by the sound. You can either use a switch designed for two circuits or as stated before use a latching relay for the LED.

I also explained not to long ago that with a multi position slide switch you can trigger the sound (momentary) and trigger the LED (latching).

As for the power, a 6AA MHS battery holder would do the trick for all of your needs. Just get the 3 volts off of two batteries in line for the board.

Or for a fun project, use the 7.2 volt rechargable pack Tim has and power the hasbro off of a 2aaa or smaller pack.

airsoftmode
12-05-2006, 10:13 AM
Ok, sounds like a plan. But i think that two switches would look pretty cool so i think im gonna go with that set up, but ill use the 7.2 nimh rechargable pack and a 2aaa pack for the sound board. Thanks for all the help guys

james3
12-05-2006, 10:18 AM
Cool deal. Have fun with your build.

Firebird21
12-05-2006, 01:29 PM
James, I hate to challange your vast knowladge of electronics, but I've been running my hasbro on 6v (4AAA) since March, and it's still working. The only thing I had to do was bypass the fuse.

I'm not claiming that this is the "right" way to do it, but it works and has for 9mo. http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_huh.gif

xwingband
12-05-2006, 01:41 PM
Which board? The ones that are 4.5V to begin with are cool at 6V. I have yet to have a 3V one last that long on 6V.

james3
12-05-2006, 01:51 PM
The only thing I had to do was bypass the fuse.

Big keyword there boss.
Yeah I know it's only 6 volts dc with at most an amp or so. So no big deal right? I have jumped fuses once or twice myself but...

As you know by doing that if for some whacked reason there is a surge or something there is nothing stopping the possibility of total meltdown.

You are also using yours as a driver for the LED as well right? Keep in mind that will help use the extra current your running through there.

I know that the boards have been run at 6 but there is 0 benefit from doing so unless you are wanting to actually drive the LED with it. And then we all whine about the FOC :twisted:

Firebird21
12-05-2006, 01:51 PM
Which board? The ones that are 4.5V to begin with are cool at 6V. I have yet to have a 3V one last that long on 6V.

4.5v 3AAA version. Obi-Wan w/ The Force.

That must be it then, cool.

xwingband
12-05-2006, 02:04 PM
Or the fun after bypassing the fuse when somehow I managed to seperate the sound from the light.

I was like "OMG, OMG, etc..." The sound was on when the light was off... what a headache. :x