About to take the plunge...

[HugeC]

Hello all!

A few weeks ago my daughters and I took a class at our gym called "Saberfit" where we got to play around with lightsabers and learn how to use them. Now here I am ordering a saber! I am going to start with a "stunt" saber with the option to upgrade to a sound board later. Before I order $250 worth of stuff, I wanted to run the parts list by you veterans to make sure what I have will work and that I haven't forgotten anything. Without further ado, here's the stuff in my cart!


MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 24
MHS choke style 3 Long
5" Fluted double female threaded connector
MPS Pommel style 8
MPS Insert style 11 (fits AV switch)
Rebel Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module (red-orange LED)
MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Nickel
7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack
MWS Recharge Port
MWS BuckPuck (700 mA)
JST Extension Blue/White 24 AWG
7.4V Li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug
8-32 x 3/8" Set Screw (blade retention screw)
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (38 inches)
Recharge port hole service (Style 1)
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)


Here are the special instructions for the recharge port: "On the 5" fluted double-female connector, place the recharge port hole in the end of one of the grooves (or as close to the end as possible)."

And for the blade retention screw hole: "On the Style 24 blade holder, place the hole on the largest diameter part, towards the front."

So what do you think? Will that all work to make a stunt saber?

Here is a picture of the planned saber: 10834

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

First off, Welcome to the Forums.

Well, my question to you would be where do you plan on putting your switch and the battery pack?

[HugeC]

The switch will go in the pommel, and the battery pack should fit snugly into the choke according to the reviews on the products. It looks like the switch should basically take up the entire pommel on the builder software. Here's a picture: 10835

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK. Good for the short term, as long as you secure the battery pack somehow.

[HugeC]

Hmm, how would you secure the battery pack? Maybe some putty or something to keep it from coming out? O-rings around it to make it fit perfectly snug in the choke?

I figure I should put some padding around the buckpuck too (along with the electrical tape like it says on the product page).

I just realized that if I want to upgrade to the Nano-Biscotte sound card, I'll need a different battery as well. The voltage on the one I picked is OK for a buckpuck but too high for an NB. :/ If they had it in stock I think I might just go for the NB from the get-go.

Thanks for the advice, BTW!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yu could always get the 3.7v battery and simply use a resistor, and ditch the buck puck. This way you're halfway there for the next upgrade. The NBs should be back in stock in a few weeks.

[HugeC]

You know, that is a great point! I would need a resistor anyway if I went to the NB. (At least, so it seems from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCqUo8Fit3Y)

I should also get a momentary switch and use the momentary-to-latching converter. Or just wait til the NB is back in stock and do that. Patience, must have patience! :P

Also, if I'm going to use sound, I'll need some holes in the body somewhere for the sound to come out... Hmmm. Might need to rethink the hilt a bit.

[Wickedreamz]

Go with sound from the start, trust me lol. If your not comfortable using an NB for your first sound board try looking for a MR board.

For sound venting the pommel already has a hole in the bottom but you will need a pommel insert to protect the speaker

[HugeC]

Well, since I'm putting the AV switch in the pommel, there aren't any speaker holes there, the switch takes up all the room. I guess I could move the switch and get a different pommel insert with holes, but from using a saber in class, I don't like having the switch on the handle, it gets in the way. (Of course, that was a guarded style switch, so maybe a recessed AV switch would not be as bad...)

I was thinking of getting some additional holes drilled into the 5" fluted connector. I was going to have the recharge port there, so if I got 2 or 3 more holes drilled at the same position it would look nice and symmetrical. Then I could mount a speaker using the V4 speaker mount.

Alternatively, I could get some holes drilled into the pommel piece, use a V5 speaker mount, and put the recharge port at the other end, near the choke. Decisions decisions! :P

Thanks for all your suggestions guys! If you have any advice on whether the above ideas are good/bad, I'd sure appreciate it!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I think you may need to completely redo your design assuming that it will have sound. Ideally, you will need to look for a new spot for your switch.

[HugeC]

Will the problem be getting the switch wires past the speaker mount? With the momentary switch it looks like there should be enough room for the resistor to fit in the pommel if I move the recharge port next to the choke:

10841

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Will the problem be getting the switch wires past the speaker mount? With the momentary switch it looks like there should be enough room for the resistor to fit in the pommel if I move the recharge port next to the choke:


10841

That will be one of your problems. A muffled sound will be another. You may want to consider a switch box that will hold both the switch and the recharge port. Also, getting wires past the battery to the LED will be something else to consider. Plus, if you plan it right, the speaker mount will also help secure your sound card and/or battery.

[HugeC]

That will be one of your problems. A muffled sound will be another. You may want to consider a switch box that will hold both the switch and the recharge port. Also, getting wires past the battery to the LED will be something else to consider. Plus, if you plan it right, the speaker mount will also help secure your sound card and/or battery.
Hmm, ok. I would much rather have the switch in the pommel if I can manage it. Would it be possible to just file some grooves in the speaker mount so the switch wires can fit past it? I can always get on my dad's drill press and make some holes in the pommel to let the sound come out.

For the battery, I was thinking of using some 1/4in packing foam and leaving a little gap for the JST extension that goes to the LED to fit past it. If I use this battery (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Panasonic-Li-Ion-18650-37V-3400mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-P853.aspx), it seems like that should work. If I used one of the combo speaker/battery holders, I'm not sure the recharge port would fit.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yes, you can put grooves into the speaker mount, but like I said, the sound will get muffled.

[HugeC]

Oh, ok, the wires will muffle it, gotcha! Hmm. So either I move the switch to a more conventional location, or deal with muffled sound. Argh! I shall meditate upon this wisdom.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Oh, ok, the wires will muffle it, gotcha! Hmm. So either I move the switch to a more conventional location, or deal with muffled sound. Argh! I shall meditate upon this wisdom.

The wires, AND the switch itself.

[HugeC]

You know, something else occurred to me. In order to get the pommel onto the 5" fluted section, I'd have to screw it on while the switch wires were going through those grooves in the speaker mount. Would that even work? Seems like the wires would get all twisted.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

It *could* work, though it wouldn't be easy. Now you see why I've made the suggestions that I have.

[HugeC]

OK, I think I am going ahead with my design, and if it doesn't work, FJK can say I told you so! :P I put all the stuff I'm going to order on my wishlist, which is here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ViewWishlist.aspx?WishlistId=43422

I'm going to try doing what Jay-gonn Jin did (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12408-Wire-Routing/page2) to get the switch wires past the speaker mount. I plan to order the speaker/battery holder combo (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-and-2x-AA-battery-holder-P766.aspx) even though I'm not going to use the battery holder. I figure it will give me a place to mount the NB, and I can tuck all the wires and JSTs into the battery slots. Plus it's one less thing for me to solder (the speaker).

To assemble the thing, first I'd run the switch wires through the speaker holder and connect everything except the recharge port and main LED. Then slide some tubing over the speaker/battery holder/NB and screw the fluted connector over that stuff so it (hopefully) stays still and won't twist the switch wires. Next connect the recharge port wire and run the LED and battery wires through the choke and screw that on. Connect the battery and stuff it into the choke as far as it will go (I plan to use some foam padding and attach something to the battery so I can pull it out again if needed). Finally, connect the main LED, pop it in, and screw on the blade holder. Whaddya think, will that work?

Oh! For the resistor I used this site (http://www.led.linear1.org/1led.wiz) to calculate what I'd need. 3.7V source, 2.3V for the red-orange LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.aspx) at 700mA gave me a 2.2 ohm 2+ watt resister, so I went with the 2.2 ohm 5 watt one. Does that sound right?

I think the only things I should have to solder are the LED resistor and the splice to run power to the switch LED. Plus I'll need to drill some speaker holes in the pommel, but maybe I can ask Tim to do that? I'd rather not mess with the drill-press if I can avoid it. :P

I realize my sound is still going to be muffled, but I'd rather live with that than a switch on the handle! Hopefully it will still sound OK.

[HugeC]

Argh, just realized this post should have gone in the Parts List subforum. Doh! If a mod wants to move it, that would be cool.