Ravenwood Saber

[MaraRavenwood]

Hey, guys. This is where I will be posting all of my pesky questions for my first saber build. (I hope I'm putting this in the correct section.)

A little background. I bought the parts for and assembled my hilt last summer (7/2014). (First thread is here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?16842-Nervous-noob-please-quiet-my-fears) Funds have now become available so that I can start on the electronics. (Yay!) But first let us review what have been accomplished to date.

This is my completed hilt parts list:

Hilt
Hilt style 3
MHS choke style 3
MPS pommel style 4
MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 12
MPS insert style 7
MPS clip
Activation box style 9
16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary White Ring Switch
2.1mm Power Jack
Kill plug style 5 (color: none)
4-40 Button Head Screw
Machined button for Covertec clip
8-32 x 1/4" socket head screw
Covertec clip
8-32 x .3" anodized thumb screw

Services - Powder Coat
Pommel powder coating (PM41) - Sun Gold
Choke powder coating (CH31) - Sun Gold
Blade Holder powder coating (B122) - Sun Gold
Main body powder coating (SH33) - Warlock Gray

Services - Drilling
Box 9,10, and 17 Mounting holes service
Drill & Tap Hole - 8-32, covertec clip
Drill & Tap Hole - 8-32, blade retention screw

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[MaraRavenwood]

Electronic Design Features
0. White blade color
1. Momentary on/off switch (purchased)
2. White ring on on/off switch set to "on" while kill-plug is out
3. Rechargeable battery
4. Recharge port via 2.1mm power jack, with kill plug (purchased)
5. Standard sounds (activate, hum, deactivate)
6. Flash-on-clash
7. Speaker in pommel

I think those are all of my requirements. First, let me say that I know this is an ambitious first build, but do have a bachelor's degree in electrical engineering, so it's not like I've never soldered before. Second, why did the shop have to be out of NBv2 the day I'm ready to start purchasing parts? Anyway, I'm in the research phase watching the videos available on YouTube to help figure out what I'm doing.

Thanks in advance for all the help and checking my designs to ensure I don't screw up! :D

[Robust Stardust]

Greetings Ravenwood! That's a very elegant saber design you have there. I really enjoy the sun gold powder coating, and the darker bands add a nice rhythm. Looking forward to following your build!

[setelf3of5]

Welcome to the forums! As stated above... this is a very elegant and sleek looking saber. I look forward to seeing your work.

[MaraRavenwood]

Thanks! I'm actually thinking about replacing the sun gold pieces (it is more mustard yellow in person than on the powder coating colors page). If anyone knows anybody who would interested in buying my emitter, choke and pommel with speaker grill insert, let me know!

[MaraRavenwood]

Anyone have any pictures of translucent brass powder coat? I've looked in the galleries but haven't found any samples.

[MaraRavenwood]

Actual saber question: I was told that I can't use the Rebel Star LED Heatsink Module for what I want to do. What LED do I need?

[Mark1972]

Hi i have a pic of trans gold of the TCSS build site i think its a cool color.

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[MaraRavenwood]

So I want a white blade. I'm assuming that TCSS does not carry this (that I have seen), so I need to go back to the source and buy this: http://www.luxeonstar.com/cool-white-5650K-sinkpad-ii-20mm-tri-star-led-235lm. Your thoughts?

[Robust Stardust]

Yeah, from what I understand, for a white blade--and if you want flash on clash like you mentioned above--you would need a Tri-Rebel or a Tri-Cree. If you want the FoC to be a different color than the main blade, you could order a Tri-Rebel configured white/white/green (or your favorite FoC color), and wire the white LEDs in series for a bright main blade.

TCSS does have single die Cree XP-E2 LEDs, and white is in stock...just no flash on clash with that route: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/White-Cree-XP-E2-CopperNova-P1003.aspx

Hope that helps! (And that I'm not misunderstanding this complex saber art!) :D

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

So I want a white blade. I'm assuming that TCSS does not carry this (that I have seen), so I need to go back to the source and buy this: http://www.luxeonstar.com/cool-white-5650K-sinkpad-ii-20mm-tri-star-led-235lm. Your thoughts?

You might want to wait. Although the Rebels aren't being stocked anymore, their replacements should be on the way fairly soon. ;)

[Robust Stardust]

You might want to wait. Although the Rebels aren't being stocked anymore, their replacements should be on the way fairly soon. ;)

That's exciting news, FJK! :D

[MaraRavenwood]

FJK, will those be the SinkPAD-II Rebel Tri-Star, or a different LED altogether?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

FJK, will those be the SinkPAD-II Rebel Tri-Star, or a different LED altogether?

They will be the new Tri-Crees.

[MaraRavenwood]

Oh, good to know. Time to go download a new datasheet! :)

[MaraRavenwood]

I've been looking and haven't found any documentation for tri-Cree LEDs. *grumble* Anyone got a part number?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I've been looking and haven't found any documentation for tri-Cree LEDs. *grumble* Anyone got a part number?

Be patient, once they are in house, Specs will be posted. You can look at the singles in the store for an idea of what's to come. ;)

[MaraRavenwood]

Be patient, once they are in house, Specs will be posted. You can look at the singles in the store for an idea of what's to come. ;)
Thanks. (Patience is not my strong suit.) Already waiting for the NBv2 to be back in stock. Hopefully both will come in at the same time. I'm trying to draw up my wiring diagram so that I can finalize my design and order everything I need at once. I'm also tracking down as many datasheets as I can for my lab book as I work through this.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Thanks. (Patience is not my strong suit.) Already waiting for the NBv2 to be back in stock. Hopefully both will come in at the same time. I'm trying to draw up my wiring diagram so that I can finalize my design and order everything I need at once. I'm also tracking down as many datasheets as I can for my lab book as I work through this.

If you are using a NB, the math should be fairly simple. ;)

[MaraRavenwood]

If you are using a NB, the math should be fairly simple. ;)
Agreed. Simple math. I went from knowing pretty much nothing about lightsaber circuits to my first draft of a wiring diagram in two hours. Did the divisions for the resistor values, but not full node voltage/current loop analysis. It will be easy, but I want to check it against the specs for all of the parts. Need datasheets to do that. I will order parts after it looks good on paper. :)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Agreed. Simple math. I went from knowing pretty much nothing about lightsaber circuits to my first draft of a wiring diagram in two hours. Did the divisions for the resistor values, but not full node voltage/current loop analysis. It will be easy, but I want to check it against the specs for all of the parts. Need datasheets to do that. I will order parts after it looks good on paper. :)

All you need is to figure out the correct resistor values. The rest is not necessary.

[MaraRavenwood]

So if the power extender is putting out 1.5A and the white LED takes 1A, are people 1) throwing in another resistor, 2) ignoring the extra 0.5A that the LED is getting for FoC, or 3)something else? With space at a premium, the fewer resistors the better.

[Silver Serpent]

The PEX doesn't exactly put out 1.5A. That's just the maximum safe draw of power through it. The PEX just acts as a switch, allowing the battery power to flow through to the FoC die when it is activated by the control signal.

[MaraRavenwood]

So, don't worry about the amps, just check the voltages to see if I need a resistor in there. Thanks!

:Edit: I mean throw a resistor in to get the 12V PEx output down to 3.1V for the white LED and use 1A for the resistor calc.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

So, don't worry about the amps, just check the voltages to see if I need a resistor in there. Thanks!

:Edit: I mean throw a resistor in to get the 12V PEx output down to 3.1V for the white LED and use 1A for the resistor calc.

I have no idea where you are getting 12V from. You appear to be confusing yourself with a lot of extraneous data that isn't really relevant to your situation.

[Silver Serpent]

Yep. The output voltage to your FoC die from the PEX is going to be equal to your battery pack.

[MaraRavenwood]

From the description for the Power Extender in the shop: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Power-Xtender-20-P652.aspx


Dimensions : 0.55"x0.36"
Input voltage : 0-5 volts max. Switches at 3.3V
Output voltage/current : 12V / 1.5A

I'll change that output voltage to my Vbatt. Thanks.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

From the description for the Power Extender in the shop: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Power-Xtender-20-P652.aspx



I'll change that output voltage to my Vbatt. Thanks.

That's what the rating of those components are. Again you appear to be making things harder for yourself than they need to be. The only relevant "facts" you need are: your battery solution (voltage), your LED(s) and what they run at (voltage and amperage). That gives you what you need to calculate the resistor(s) you need, and that's really all you need.

[MaraRavenwood]

Here's my first wiring diagram.
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[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Here's my first wiring diagram.
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OK, I'm not a huge fan of trying to run 2 main LEDs off of 1 resistor, but then again, I'm not paying for the LED. ;) Also, the 3.1 is a median value, so if say you used 3.2 in it's place, you may find resistor values that are easier to obtain. The diagram looks good overall, I'm happy to see you are putting a lot of thought into this.

[MaraRavenwood]

OK, I'm not a huge fan of trying to run 2 main LEDs off of 1 resistor, but then again, I'm not paying for the LED. ;) Also, the 3.1 is a median value, so if say you used 3.2 in it's place, you may find resistor values that are easier to obtain. The diagram looks good overall, I'm happy to see you are putting a lot of thought into this.

Thanks. I'm not a huge fan of tying those LEDs together, either; but I figured using the wiring example in the NB user's manual was a good place to start.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Thanks. I'm not a huge fan of tying those LEDs together, either; but I figured using the wiring example in the NB user's manual was a good place to start.

It is. What you would want to do is to put a smaller resistor on EACH (+) going to the LED, after the "Y" split off. Do that, and I think your life will be much easier.

[MaraRavenwood]

I bought a sound card while they are in stock. Practicing my Jedi meditation while I wait for a white-white-white LED to become available.


Nano Biscotte Sound Module V2
Power Xtender 2.0
Premium 28mm Speaker
MHS speaker mount V6 - For 28mm Speakers
Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery
3.7V Li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug
18650 Single Cell Holder
9" Electronics shield for 1.25" ID tubes
12 Colored Discs
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
Variety of wire (24AWG and 26AWG) and heatshrink

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Practice your soldering skills, you should.

[MaraRavenwood]

Practice your soldering skills, you should.

True. I haven't done any soldering since my son was born. That was seven years ago. ;)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

True. I haven't done any soldering since my son was born. That was seven years ago. ;)

Yeah, this is almost like music school. Some advice and a LOT of practice. ;)

[MaraRavenwood]

I've changed my design slightly. I'm now looking at a purple blade with the RGB tri-cree LED. As a housekeeping thing, I've also drawn my LEDs running in parallel. See attached picture.

10874

I'm planning on purchasing:

Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
MHS Heat Sink V3
Star thermal tape pad (out of stock)


The resistors I am planning on buying are as follows:

Rs - 20mA DynaOhm Variable for white ring LED on AV switch
Rr - This is for the red LED, and I'm not sure what would make the best purple, so was going to get the 1.2ohm/3W, 1.5ohm/5W, and 2.2ohm/5W and experiment to see which one I like best.
Rb - 0.47ohm/0.5W for blue LED
Rg - 0.47ohm/0.5W for green LED

I'd appreciate some feedback on my resistor selections. My resistor calculations are on my wiring diagram. Thanks!

Edit: Alternatively, should I leave out the 0.47ohm resistors and set the value for the blue and green LEDs with the drive parameter on the NBv2 as stated in the user's manual on p. 21?

[Silver Serpent]

No issues with the wiring diagram that I can see. The 0.47 ohm resistors are fine, and I would use them instead of adjusting the drive parameter personally.

Experimenting with the red resistor will work fine. You could also pick up a potentiometer and dial in the proper shade of purple, then measure the resistance and get that value resistor.

[MaraRavenwood]

No issues with the wiring diagram that I can see. The 0.47 ohm resistors are fine, and I would use them instead of adjusting the drive parameter personally.

Experimenting with the red resistor will work fine. You could also pick up a potentiometer and dial in the proper shade of purple, then measure the resistance and get that value resistor.

Thanks, SS! :D