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enigma1861
01-27-2015, 09:43 AM
10803

Ok. So, while awaiting the arrival of my NB 2.0 and other parts, I'm drawing out how I'm going to wire everything up for a purple blade and flash on clash with a cree XPE-2 red-green-royal blue LED.

I'm trying to utilize the MWS harness in the same manner that Madcow demonstrated in his "build a basic saber with sound" videos. As noted in Madcow's youtube post, the current harness is different from the one he used in the video.

Here is the harness I will be using:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/NB-V2-MWS-Header-and-Wiring-Harness-P961.aspx

The only thing I'm not sure about is whether or not I can connect the black wire from the harness to the (-) terminal of the battery holder and connect the adjacent yellow wire to the (battery -) terminal on the NB. The ground wire from the switch and the (-) wire from the power extender would then be connected to the corresponding pin that would connect to the harness where the black and yellow wires come together.

Sorry for the long-winded post, but I'm trying to be as specific as possible.

Also, if this post would have been better suited in the "LED hilts and wiring discussion", then I apologize.

Thanks.

MaraRavenwood
02-03-2015, 08:40 AM
I've been working on a similar design for my white saber. I'm still a noob, but from just looking at what you have drawn up, I would suggest that you draw your diagram again without the space between the NB pins and the section of wiring harness on the left. If you look at the picture of the harness, only one side has wires. The side without wires goes directly into the line of holes in the NB.

enigma1861
02-04-2015, 11:36 PM
That is how the harness was originally intended to be used, yes. However, Madcow came up with a really cool way of using the harness for the NB 2.0:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pOpUSCsXXhk

I'd recommend watching all of these videos, especially if you consider yourself a Noob. Madcow is to saber building what Bob Ross was to painting. He explains things very well.

The harness he uses in the video is older than the one TCSS recommends now. Also, the order of the wiring is slightly different now than what he shows in the video - hence my long OP.

For the record, I followed my drawing pretty much to a T. The only thing I changed was I ran a black wire from the - battery post and connected it to the black wire on the harness. I 'Y' soldered a third black wire to this connection, then soldered the 3rd black wire and the adjacent yellow wire from the harness to the - pad of the board. I might could have done without the 3rd black wire, but I wasn't sure.

Everything worked fine.

Also, FYI I dont know if you plan on using the longer battery/speaker holder that accommodates the NB, but I found the fit to be too tight when I tried using the clear T8 tubing to keep everything from touching the inner wall of the hilt. I solved this by cutting the T8 tube in half lengthwise and using it to cover just the NB side of the holder.

Oh, and I also found that i had to change the 'I' sensitivity from 53 to 70 in the config file for the light meat sound font. Dark meat, I set to 65.

Good luck Ravenwood. Hope this helps.

Alkide
01-16-2016, 07:44 AM
This was really helpful enigma! This is the exact same build I was going for with the purple blade and foc. I have two questions though. What is the PCT next to the +Red and how do I "bridge" the royal blue and red negatives?