Chassis Designs and ideas

[Madcow]

Many people have been asking me to do a Crystal Chassis tutorial vid. And I will at some point. The problem is that there are just SO MANY WAYS to make a cool chassis using the parts available here at TCSS!

This thread is for you to show pics and videos of how YOU did it. After a while the community will be able to come to this thread to see some great examples of what is possible.

Please post pics and videos of chassis mostly built with parts from TCSS, don't confuse new customers by posting about parts you got elsewhere, or had made.

[cvsickle]

Chassis in general or specifically crystal chassis?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Chassis in general or specifically crystal chassis?

Chassis in general, as long as it is using TCSS parts.

[amwolf]

Here's one I did for for a NB and an 18650 with a recharge port. It's about 98% TCSS parts; I chose to use (2) outsourced 4-40 nuts and the accent leds for full disclosure. Everything else is Shop - Tim even modified the one recharge port disk to add mounting holes for the smaller disks that hold the NB/battery. I modified the speaker holder to mount the recharge port disk.

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/ac26/am2wolf/Saber%2019/th_IMG_0218_zps2d55aae8.jpg (http://s882.photobucket.com/user/am2wolf/media/Saber%2019/IMG_0218_zps2d55aae8.jpg.html)

[Sevinzol]

I'm not sure what other people think but I find the chassis parts in the store to be confusing. I think of it as kind of advanced stuff and "I'll try it on a build some day."

Say you want to power a Nano Biscotte sound card with a 18650 rechargeable battery.
- first you purchase Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-NB-and-1850018650-pack (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-NB-and-1850018650-pack-S3-P813.aspx).
- then you need threaded rod and some aluminum spacer, what length spacer? the chassis description doesn't say and neither does the NB info.
Is it
1/2-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer-P604.aspx)
or
3/4-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/34-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer-P605.aspx)
or
1-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer-P606.aspx)

Then what about aluminum discs. Is it chassis disc style 2,3,4 or 5 ? and how does the Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-2-hole-to-3-hole-adapter (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-2-hole-to-3-hole-adapter-S9-P773.aspx) work and is it needed?

I think that some updating of the chassis section of the store, along with a basic chassis parts video, would boost people's confidence in using a chassis in their builds.

[Madcow]

Great start amwolf!



I'm not sure what other people think but I find the chassis parts in the store to be confusing. I think of it as kind of advanced stuff and "I'll try it on a build some day."

Say you want to power a Nano Biscotte sound card with a 18650 rechargeable battery.
- first you purchase Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-NB-and-1850018650-pack (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-NB-and-1850018650-pack-S3-P813.aspx).
- then you need threaded rod and some aluminum spacer, what length spacer? the chassis description doesn't say and neither does the NB info.
Is it
1/2-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer-P604.aspx)
or
3/4-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/34-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer-P605.aspx)
or
1-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer-P606.aspx)

Then what about aluminum discs. Is it chassis disc style 2,3,4 or 5 ? and how does the Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-2-hole-to-3-hole-adapter (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-2-hole-to-3-hole-adapter-S9-P773.aspx) work and is it needed?

I think that some updating of the chassis section of the store, along with a basic chassis parts video, would boost people's confidence in using a chassis in their builds.

Valid input - thank you. I hope that things will be clearer with the examples to be posted in this thread, and upcoming videos.

[cvsickle]

Here's my most recent chassis. Completely store parts. Holds a PCv3 and a CEx along with a speaker. Pommel has a recharge and rice port.
10804.
10805

I cut the rods and brass tubes myself. Also, I am providing this as a bad example of a chassis, as it places the soundcard too close to the center of the hilt. Swing/clash sensitivity isn't very good at that location. Be wary of this when designing a chassis.

[Machinimax]

I would like to post this video I made today in response to this thread. This shows two of my sabers with custom internals that utilize chassis parts from TCSS. One is for a standard MHS saber and the other is a Graflex with a crystal chamber. Feel free to take a look and let me know if you have any questions. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fa0_RzcBGs

[Madcow]

Excellent additions to the collection guys!

[bigkevin61]

Here are a few pics of my first "in use" chassis, in my son's lighhtsaber (Sunfire).

10806 10807

I used a "Speaker Mount V5", with new (done by me) 4-40 thread holes drilled & tapped to align with the "Acrylic Chassis Discs for NB/18500 1.15 ID parts" (since those holes do not match with standard ID parts like the speaker mounts).

The large space between the card and the speaker mount is for SD Card access. In retrospect (and for the next build) I should have "flipped" the card around, placing the SD card facing the front of the saber, and moved the card as close to the speaker mount as possible. I didn't do that in this build, as I wanted to keep the wires off the card as clean as possible (being my first build). I'm not entirely happy with the swing response (even after adjusting the sensitivity), as where the card sits now, it pretty much right under the palm of my son's hand when he is holding the saber.

Next time, smaller gauge wire (to help with the cram-fu), and better placement!

[bigkevin61]

Here are pics of the "version 1.0" chassis for my own personal saber (work in progress).

I'm using a "18650 'Stick' Battery Pack" with "Acrylic Chassis Discs for PC 2.0 and 18500/18650 pack - S2" for the CF7 (same width for both PC3 & CF7 cards), modified (opened and widened) by me "Acrylic Chassis Disc for NB and 18500/18650 pack - S3" for the CE (as the shop doesn't have discs specifically for this), and a "Speaker Mount V5". The Chassis is LONG, as I have an "Acrylic Chassis Disc 2 hole to 3 hole adapter - S9" to hold the battery in place, and another to hold a Bar Graph (for the accent Leds/PLI) in place. That last disc would be cut down to allow a switch to fit.

10808108091081010811

In this design, I'm basically locking in the SD Card, and if access is needed, it would require un-threading of the rod from the speaker mount, and in this design, that would mean complete dis-assembly. Hence the 1.0 version. This was my first attempt (my saber have been WIP for a year) at internal layout. I believe the simplest solution would be to mount the chassis using a metal chassis disc (at the end opposite the speaker), and un-attach the speaker mount, to allow for removal of the speaker only, for SD card access.

Anyway, nothing beats having the parts in hand to see how things work (or don't) with your chassis idea.
Moral of the story? Chassis parts are "relatively" inexpensive, so buy a few more parts (rod, nuts, spacers) then you THINK you need, as you very well may want to modify the design!

[Madcow]

Anyway, nothing beats having the parts in hand to see how things work (or don't) with your chassis idea.
Moral of the story? Chassis parts are "relatively" inexpensive, so buy a few more parts (rod, nuts, spacers) then you THINK you need, as you very well may want to modify the design!

I definitely agree!

[froggyone]

Hope this helps. Sorry for the brightness my computer and cam sits under a shop light. I show how to thread a nut using a dremel onto a 4-40 tube.
http://youtu.be/X-k2Qctxutg.

[Silver Serpent]

That's not a bad idea. Personally, I just cut the threaded rod first, clean up the threads, and then put the nut on. It saves having to spin the nut down the entire length of the threaded rod.

[Er Dan Gill]

This is one that I did to get to the switch nut and SD card. On the oposing end was a spring out of a ball point pen. Pull on the speaker and spin it out of the way for access, and the tightened spring kept the chassis tight up against the hilt so you could work.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x170/ErDanGill/Sabers/Serenity%20V3/DSCN0655_zps0415a5b3.jpg (http://s182.photobucket.com/user/ErDanGill/media/Sabers/Serenity%20V3/DSCN0655_zps0415a5b3.jpg.html)

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x170/ErDanGill/Sabers/Serenity%20V3/DSCN0652_zps0cd5b238.jpg (http://s182.photobucket.com/user/ErDanGill/media/Sabers/Serenity%20V3/DSCN0652_zps0cd5b238.jpg.html)

[RobotCamel]

Here my chassis that I just re-did for my first saber.

I used the "Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 14500 side by side pack" for the PC and a 14650 side by side pack.

The chassis locks in place with Chassis Disc style 5 and a set screw on the bottom side of the MHS Gear piece. So I can just unscrew the bottom half of the hilt a little bit to access the RICE port, which is mounted in place with the "Acrylic Chassis Disc for recharge port".

10971

[froggyone]

Just finished most of chassis tonight. Just waiting for a few parts. http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo183/froggy1734/20150313_220101_zpsdk9ehujj.jpg

[Telgarian]

Are the acrylic chassis discs for the PC 2.0 big enough to hold a Plecter Labs Crystal Focus 7.5?

[Ty_Bomber]

Are the acrylic chassis discs for the PC 2.0 big enough to hold a Plecter Labs Crystal Focus 7.5?

indeed.

[Telgarian]

indeed.

Is that "Indeed they are" or "Indeed, this question needs answering"?

[xwingband]

Indeed as in "Yes, it works."

I'm doing it right now. In addition to TCSS parts I grabbed some nylon parts from my hardware store. A 1.375" washer works for the inside of a Graflex. So not only will it space the chassis, I'm going to use it to "seal" the end for the speaker and it should sound great.

http://architecture.michaelcporter.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/IMG_0439-1024x548.jpg

[Telgarian]

Excellent, thank-you.

[Thegreatmaxby]

Can anyone tell me if I could or should still do a chassis even if I'm not doing sound? I will just have the battery and the led

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Can anyone tell me if I could or should still do a chassis even if I'm not doing sound? I will just have the battery and the led

You wouldn't want the battery to rattle around, would you?

[Thegreatmaxby]

No. Is there nothing different I should do without sound? Also does anyone know if a saberforge LED would work and maybe how to install it? Thanks

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

No. Is there nothing different I should do without sound? Also does anyone know if a saberforge LED would work and maybe how to install it? Thanks

That company is not discussed in these parts.

[Thegreatmaxby]

Oh well is there any LEDs out there that are brighter than a saberforge twelve watt?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Oh well is there any LEDs out there that are brighter than a saberforge twelve watt?

The Tri-Crees that are sold in the store are very bright.

[chocol8milkman]

Newbie here - I'm diving into the deep-end with trying to build a chassis for my first saber. To start, I have a question regarding planning, sketches, and diagrams.

Is there some sort of free/low-cost software that many people use to design/plan their chassis? I know about TCSS MHS tool, but was hoping someone was using something "more involved" to plan out precise measurement for their chassis.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums.

I personally use the ever popular paper, pencil and ruler. It's not too hard, unless you are trying something completely off the wall. The "more involved" is basically just experience - which there is no "instant solution" for.

[darth_chasm]

I use Adobe Illustrator and Autodesk 123D Design. AI is subscription based and moderately priced. You can even do monthly. 123D is freeware.

[chocol8milkman]

I use Adobe Illustrator and Autodesk 123D Design. AI is subscription based and moderately priced. You can even do monthly. 123D is freeware.

Autodesk 123D Design looks great. Landing page has a mock-up of a couple sabers... lol

[Zacharyah]

I use Creo Elements/Pro student edition. It's free, you just have to sign up. I attend a university that doesn't give out .edu email addresses, so I emailed PTC and they didn't even request verification of enrollment status, they just sent me a download link

[Zahc Zi Phan]

I will post a picture or two tomorrow (on duty today) but here is how I did my current crystal chamber, turned out very cool.

Parts needed:
2 regular TCSS chassis discs
2 brass faucet seats from your local hardware plumbing section
1/2'' 20t tap
29/64ths drill bit
4/40 threaded rods
alminum chassis spacers


I took the chassis discs and drilled the large center hole slightly larger with the 29/64 bit, and threaded the new hole with the 1/2" 20 tap. The brass faucet seats now thread into the chassis discs and will hold a crystal of your choosing quite well. Measure and cut the aluminum spacers and insert 4/40 rods. Secure it to your existing chassis system. You can also "connect the dots" between the other holes in the chassis discs with a dremel or drill press to make a channel for wires to pass. If you mar the brass or aluminum parts while doing this, fine grain steel wool can make them nice and shiny again.

If you haven't seen Brass faucet seats, google them. They are fantastic looking little solid brass thingamajigs that really look at home in a crystal chamber. It is almost like they were made for just that. They can be found very commonly at ACE hardware or most chain hardware stores. They come in many different sizes and styles and are between $2 and $8 for two. Pay attention to the threading. It usually says on the box what they are threaded for. They are hollow in the middle, and have the perfect amount of room for a 5mm accent LED.

[JD8a27]

Thanks for this! Just downloaded them and going to start designing! :D

[chocol8milkman]

@RobotCamel - would you be able to do me a quick favor? I like your chassis build and am thinking about doing something similar. Could you line up your chassis with the inches ruler on your cutting mat so I can get an idea of the total length needed? I'm trying to fit all of that into a 5" extension piece... not sure if it'll work

[MikeC13]

Crystal chamber using aluminum discs...

12253122541225512256

[AckAck]

That is a gorgeous chassis setup. I really like your crystal chamber too. And that kill key! I must have one! :)

[MikeC13]

And that kill key! I must have one! :)

Thank you. I made the kill key on my crippled old mini-lathe. I found the little jewel at Michael's...

12260 12261

[rlobrecht]

Here's my first chassis. All TCSS parts, although some are a bit modified.
12306

12307

Some lessons learned:
-zip ties around the spacers won't fit inside the saber body
-heat shrink that will go around a JST connector doesn't shrink tight enough for 2 wires
-too much heat will melt the shrink around a 18650 battery
-acrylic chassis discs are really brittle - buy extras, they are cheap
-cooled hot glue peels off acrylic easily
-the 4-40 nuts sold in the store are smaller than the ones I had on hand or could find locally
-Tim will sell you chassis discs with only the rod holes drilled in them. Thanks, Tim!

Here's what the chassis has from right to left:
V4 speaker mount and 28mm Premium speaker
Chassis Disc style 5
Chassis Disc for Recharge Port (and Recharge port) - custom cut spacers because the 1/2" ones were out of stock when I ordered
1" spacers so I can get to the SD card
Panasonic 18650 battery in the back, MWS NB in the front - the connector had to be shaved slightly to fit
Chassis Disc for NB and 18500/18650 pack x2 with custom length spacers in between
3/4" spacer
Chassis Disc for NB and 18500/18650 pack with the NB slot cut off
solid disc cut into a D shape - these two are glued together
really sloppy glue job holding the PLI on, because I couldn't find small enough screws or taps (which was my original plan)
solid disc cut into a D shape
chassis disc style 2

[CET]

Crystal chamber using aluminum discs...

12253122541225512256

I LOVE that crystal chamber! Parts details please. :-)

[MikeC13]

I LOVE that crystal chamber! Parts details please. :-)

Thank you.

The crystal mounts and a couple other bits were machined on my little lathe. The ball-shaped bits are micro ball ends from my r/c truck parts hoard. The ends are MHS chassis disk #2. And brass tubing for wire passage and spacers.

I disassembled it last night in a quest for more room inside my hilt. I managed to shorten it almost 1/4", but it still looks pretty much the same as before. I'm coming to the realization that even a 1/16th of an inch can make or break a successful assembly!

[CET]

I know what you mean. I've only built two sabers so far and I'm investigating how to ditch my JST connectors.

[NaasadTal]

Since learning of this thread & deciding to build a chassis for my saber, I have been waiting to post something here & that time has come!

I still have yet to put the electronics (speaker, recharge port, panasonic 18650 & Nano Biscotte) in it, but the design of the chassis is complete. This will be going inside a MHS based Starkiller replica. The main Crystal Chamber has a focusing & power crystal in it & the secondary chamber (which will be hidden under the grip) holds an Ultima Pearl for now, I may change this up later so this chamber will remain unlit
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p244/R1-Alchemist/20160717_191231.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/R1-Alchemist/media/20160717_191231.jpg.html)

For those interested, here is my Parts list (all TCSS):
4-40 threaded rods & nuts
Aluminum 3/16" OD tube for the spacers
4 Petite Crouton discs (used for the Crystal Chambers - 2 each)
2 Nano Biscotte/18650 discs
Recharge Port disc assembly
Speaker Holder v4

The Crystals & Sphere came from a local/online shop

Really happy with how this turned out, but would love to hear your input!

[Tom Tilmon]

My latest MHS Chassis, it locks into the blade holder via a gender changer and a 1.2" double female below blade holder. I had to modify that area internally to get my switches and chassis disk 5 to lock in while still allowing room for my switch wires/LED wires to route through the CC:

This one has a red, green, and blue 5mm LEDs mounted in the lowest RC Port Chassis Ring, near speaker holder 4. They get great shine through on the clear chassis disks! It looks great.

https://i.imgur.com/juQfU9e.jpg

[Tom Tilmon]

Nihilus, saber above was inspiration for this chassis:
https://i.imgur.com/ybSRd6a.jpg

[PCModulus]

Here are a couple mods i made to the MHS speaker mount V6 for a customer:

Cover to hide wiring

http://pcmodul.us/jeff/DSC00342.JPG

Custom center section and end cap with kill switch to fit a Heiland flash tube.

http://pcmodul.us/jeff/DSC00408.JPG

http://pcmodul.us/jeff/DSC00409.JPG

http://pcmodul.us/jeff/DSC00410.JPG

And how close it fits

http://pcmodul.us/jeff/DSC00411.JPG

[Play3er2]

wishing there was an acrylic disc for the pico crumble

[MandaloreJedi]

wishing there was an acrylic disc for the pico crumble

The chassis disk for the Nano Biscotti also works for the Pico Crumble.

[Goshivan]

Has anybody built a chassis to hold a CFX and go in a Saberforge hilt? my inside diameter is 1.12 and the discs listed for the CFX say they are 1.25. Would there be enough disc to shave them down enough to fit my hilt?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I don’t think they would fit, or that the disks can be shaved down enough. Also, that company really isn’t mentioned in these parts. ;)

[Goshivan]

yeah I know they aren't the best to talk about but the ASP hilt I got from them was exactly what I was looking for. It is what I have now and can't really afford to upgrade hilts so I have to live with it. Next time I have a question I will try to leave out the name...lol.

[Alderscorn]

Anyone ever use the chassis disks with a removable battery? Or should that system just be used for a battery that will recharge in the saber? I kind of like the look of the disks and posts with a crystal chamber (potentially) but I was leaning toward removing my batteries.

In the same vein - if I have batteries without the wire/connector (the single cell that has a button on one end), could I wire that to have connectors? Or should I just buy them with the cables already attached?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Te chassis disks are normally used with in hilt recharging setup. The speaker holder 6 was more for battery swappable setups.

Get them prewired.

[Alderscorn]

Hmmm...any idea where to get them wired with the jst connector? I've gotten the button top ones at orbtronic but don't see them wired.

[null]

Hey

What battery are you looking for; IIRC you are doing a CFX build right? The store has 18650’s with Dean micro connectors, just snip the off and solder on a JST...

- Steve