The Bonesaber

[DarthScohin]

Hello everyone I'm glad to be apart of the community of Jedi, and Sith alike. I'm starting my lightsaber build realativly soon and would like any constructive critisim on building it. I am looking to do a sound stunt saber using the petit crouton. My base build looks like this. I would also like some input as far as if I can use this part http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V6-For-28mm-Speakers-P892.aspx with a petit crouton or how I'd go about making it easy to swap out.
10724

Internal minus the speaker and battery of course is this(I just used the AV switch for visual reference as I will be using a Latching Guarded Switch)
10725

I'm looking to add Instamorph claws and pleather around the choke and in the ribs.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

"Stunt" saber means without sound. Also, the speaker holder you shown works with a Nano Biscotti sound card, not a PC. What are instamorph claws? And how exactly would you attach those to the parts you mentioned?

[Ty_Bomber]

That part is made for standard v1 parts with an inner diameter of 1.24" so you will not be able to fit it in the rear of that saber. Your forward grip section of your hilt is also not long enough, as that chassis requires at least 5" of length to fit.

[DarthScohin]

Oh Ok, I didn't know that they're two different things (stunt and sound) What recommendations would you have to secure the sound board/battery/speaker in the hilt?
Instamorph is a type of moldable plastic. I'll probably do super glue
Also would you recommend the corbin blade?

PS: It's also okay for me to have a hilt that's not necessarily for battle as I'll mainly have this one for cosplay.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You can put whatever kind of blade you want on the saber. You just have to remember, that if you put a "show blade" on, it's not going to handle a lot of hard hits too well.

You can go through the chassis parts section of the store and piece together what you need. With that said, you don't have a lot of room on the inside of your saber, and depending on what battery solution you choose, you might not have room to fit everything in there the way your hilt is currently designed. As Thank you._Bomber pointed out, you also picked some pieces that have a smaller than usual inside diameter.

[DarthScohin]

I was worrying about the ID do you know what size battery would fit in such a build? I was thinking of putting the speaker at the start of the choke if possible

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I was worrying about the ID do you know what size battery would fit in such a build? I was thinking of putting the speaker at the start of the choke if possible

If you use the Prizm sound card, you might be able to squeeze a single 18650 battery underneath the card. It will be tight. Your speaker would have to go at the back of the hilt, by the pommel.

[DarthScohin]

Ok, is the PC too big to fit in general, I have a friend who is willing to 3D print a couple of acrylic disks to fit

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Unless you know how to do the 3.7V "hack" on the PC, you would need a 7.4V battery solution, which you don't have the room for. You may want to seriously consider redesigning your saber.

The Prizm is essentially a variant of the PC, minus the voltage regulator.

[DarthScohin]

Well fooey, and the PRIZM is out of stock. Thanks FJK

PS: If I added a 2" extension in front of the ribbed section between the 4" connector? or do I need more length than that?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well fooey, and the PRIZM is out of stock. Thanks FJK

PS: If I added a 2" extension in front of the ribbed section between the 4" connector? or do I need more length than that?

Most boards should be back in stock soon (couple of weeks). You would likely be better off with using a 6" extension piece instead of the 4" (less seams). Also having the switches (plural) there makes your life more interesting. Also, other than as a design element, I don't know what use the choke would be to you.

[DarthScohin]

Yeah the choke was for design element, and switches? another switch I would need?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yeah the choke was for design element, and switches? another switch I would need?

Yep. You may want to download the manual, and read it over a few times. ;)

[DarthScohin]

Is the AUX switch required then? I wasn't aware that it was....man my N00B is showing

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Pretty much. It allows you to switch between fonts and it triggers some of the cool special sound and light effects.

[DarthScohin]

Hmm, I could work that I'll look over the designs for it, overall how long is a standard lightsaber or the TL for it.

[snilam]

I would say most typical saber are between 11" and 14" long tip to tip but I use the word typical very cautiously as sizes can swing vary far from this

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Usually from 11-13" is standard.

[bigkevin61]

I am looking to do a ... saber using the petit crouton.

If you are going to want a saber that leaves "little" room inside, I would ask why you would want a PC or PRIZM soundcard? If you want that level of card for the extra features, (color changing, accent LEDs, RICE configurability), I'd go with the PRIZM, as it gives on board color control (the PC requires a color extender), and it uses a "smaller" battery (3.7V for the PRIZM, vs 7.4 for the PC [recommended])

If you are not looking to utilize the PRIZM/PC features, I'd say look into a Nano Biscotte. It would still give you FOC (with the right tri-star LED), and is much smaller with space and battery (3.7v recommended).

[DarthScohin]

I wouldn't be against a NB at all in fact it sounds ideal really. I was hoping I'd have the saber built by the end of the month for a con tbh. Seeing that the NB is out of stock I may just build my saber without the sound then add sound later for Comic Con in the summer

[setelf3of5]

Something every saber smith lives by is don't rush. Waiting as you have said and upgrading later is the best idea. Take your time, there are other hobbies that can be rushed. This is not one.

[DarthScohin]

I'd like to thank the community for being so helpful. I'll be doing a red lightsaber what led driver would you all recommend

[DarthScohin]

Can this LED Driver do Red? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Constant-current-LED-driver-P609.aspx

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Can this LED Driver do Red? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Constant-current-LED-driver-P609.aspx

Yes, However, if you plan on adding sound "later" just use a single cell Li-ion and a resistor, and you can save yourself some money, because depending on the sound board you pick later, you won't need the driver.

[DarthScohin]

Oh ok, So going back as simple, LED to resistor and switch to Li-ion Cell as is shown in the beginners tutorial? You said this battery http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Li-Ion-18650-37V-2600mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-Module-P672.aspx ? I think I'll go with the NB seems simple small for the fully finished build

PS: Need momentary switch?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You would need a momentary switch for the NB, IF you purchase the momentary now with the pololu board, just remove the pololu board when you're ready to upgrade to the NB.

[DarthScohin]

Ok dumb question what is a "pololu board"? Are you saying latching works with the resistor LED?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok dumb question what is a "pololu board"? Are you saying latching works with the resistor LED?

It makes a momentary switch act like a latching switch.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Momentary-to-latching-converter-25-70v-P928.aspx

[DarthScohin]

Ahh! ok it all makes sense to me now, goodness Thanks FJK.

[DarthScohin]

So I'm Ordering my electronics (Already got the switch) tomorrow and the blade I want to make sure I order what I need, I feel like I'm missing something?
Corbin Battle Blade 1"(36"TL)
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (Red)
1ohm 2 watt resistor
Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module

[Silver Serpent]

I would recalculate the value of that resistor.

A recharge port is nice, unless you want to remove the battery when you recharge it.

[DarthScohin]

That's odd because that's what the chart on the site told me? Also now that the NB is in stock what other things will I need other than the recharge port? Ps could one wire a micro usb or does that not work

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

That's odd because that's what the chart on the site told me? Also now that the NB is in stock what other things will I need other than the recharge port? Ps could one wire a micro usb or does that not work

You would want a 2 Ohm, 1W resistor.

[DarthScohin]

Ok 2omh 1w? And just the 2.1 recharge port

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok 2omh 1w? And just the 2.1 recharge port

As opposed to what?

[DarthScohin]

Micro USB?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Micro USB?

To do what? Charge a saber? Ummmm, no. Use a 2.1 recharge port.

[DarthScohin]

Ok Sounds good I was just curious if that were an option. 2ohm 1w resistor between the LED and switch then switch, speaker, LED to the soundboard (watching Madcow's video for the upteenth time)

Will this Speaker mount fit at the end of the saber?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V5-For-28mm-Speakers-P887.aspx

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yes it will fit.

[DarthScohin]

Alright so, If one has a latching switch and a NB (which don't work together obviously) how does one transform a latching to momentary or does one need to get a momentary?

[Silver Serpent]

One needs to get a momentary. You can convert a momentary to a latching, but not the other way around.

[DarthScohin]

I'm so excited i have my electronics coming in tomorrow and ihave two days off next week to work on them. I've devised a plan to use thread screws to have the recharge port in the choke I'll be sure to post pics in this thread and post the final results in a week or so