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mvanwalks421
12-16-2014, 12:51 PM
After hours of reading through the forum, I have come back enlightened with only 2 questions for everyone on here (I'd also like to point out that the responsive time has been almost immediate for my previous questions, thank you for that everyone).

1. What type of battery source is best for me to use? I plan on running a Green Luxeon Rebel Star (3.4v, 1000mA), and am not quite sure which amount of provided voltage would be the best. 4.5v/4.8v, 6v, 7.2v, 9v? I plan on using a buckpuck; I do not have any questions for that.

Once I've found out which battery voltage would be best (I am staying away from lithium ion and anything rechargeable), which battery pack would I use?

2. Which wire gauge should I use? 24, 25, 26?

Thanks in advance.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-16-2014, 01:10 PM
Actually the Li-ion 7.4V pack would be ideal for you to use. I have no idea why you would be against using Li-ions.
You need at least 5V to adequately run a Buckpuck.

The wire gauge really doesn't matter for your purposes. if you are doing complicated builds, 26 gauge is better to go with.

Silver Serpent
12-16-2014, 01:11 PM
With your specifications, the answer is 6v (4x alkaline), and either 24 or 26 gauge wire is fine. The 26 is going to be a bit more flexible and easier to work with in tight spaces.

The BuckPuck requires a minimum of 5v, so the 4.5/4.8v options are out.
The 9v option is right out, because 9v batteries don't put out enough current to power any of the high-powered LEDs.
7.2v is 6x NiMH, and you stated you're not using rechargeable. It would take up a ton of room in any case.

4xAAA or 4xAA alkalines will power your BuckPuck properly. You'll eat through AAA batteries like candy, so I'd recommend AA if you can fit them in the hilt.

The li-ions were a little scary the first time I worked with them. Soldering directly to a battery is a little nerve-wracking when you know what they'll do if ruptured. With TCSS now carrying premade packs, I see no reason not to use li-ion even as a first time builder. It's your choice though, and you can always upgrade your saber to use li-ion later, when you're tired of buying alkalines. :)

mvanwalks421
12-16-2014, 03:23 PM
Extremely helpful, the both of you.
If I use a 7.4v lithium-ion battery, which milliampere-hour and cell type is preferable?

e.g., would this (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74v-Li-ion-1050mAh-14650-Battery-Pack-P759.aspx) suffice?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-16-2014, 03:30 PM
It depends on what you can fit into your hilt. The mAh is only relevant to runtime.

mvanwalks421
12-22-2014, 07:08 PM
Hey back.
I've decided to run either AAAs or the 7.4v li-ion, since those packs will fit in my saber just fine without compromising the design. Any idea on about how long AAAs would last me? I'm using a standard Luxeon Rebel from the shop, no sound, no LED accents, nothing else.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-22-2014, 07:17 PM
AAA's don't last very long at all.

mvanwalks421
12-22-2014, 07:20 PM
So I've been hearing. Very hesitant to even use them.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-22-2014, 07:24 PM
So I've been hearing. Very hesitant to even use them.

Most don't recommend them for a reason. ;)

mvanwalks421
12-22-2014, 07:29 PM
I suppose while I'm in the lightsaber mood tonight, I am looking to get a little help with wiring my AV illuminated switch. Now, I plan on neglecting the LED prongs as I just want to avoid any sort of light other than the blade. Which two of the six prongs should I put my wires to? NC1, NC2, NO1, NO2, C1, C2?
10695

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-22-2014, 07:45 PM
As long as it is a latching switch, wire the leads to C1/NO1 OR C2/NO2 this way there will be power when you push down on the switch.