PDA

View Full Version : First Saber with sound and I have a few final questions...



DarkMessiah
12-11-2014, 04:29 PM
Ok so first a run down on the build I plan on using: Nano Biscotte V2, powered by a Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh Rechargeable Battery, Switch Craft recharge port, this tri-rebel http://www.luxeonstar.com/neutral-white-4100K-sinkpad-ii-20mm-tri-star-led-230lm wired for FoC, a 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary White Ring Switch, and a speaker. Now my main question is have I connected the power for the power xtender correctly? And also if anyone out there could take a look at my wiring schematic and look for any errors (resistor values ect.) or make any suggestions it would be appreciated.

10658

On the Tri-rebel I have LED 1 and 2 wired in parallel with one resistor for the two of them and the third wired for FoC with its own resistor. Also it may be hard to see but there is a dyna ohm resistoe on the + wire going to the AV switch

10659

Again any comments or tips would be appreciated (:

Side note- I got the resistor calculation off an LED resistor calculator if that matters

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-11-2014, 05:06 PM
1. You have the switch wired wrong. Recheck the manual.

2. What you have in the diagrams is NOT parallel wiring. Also in parallel wiring it is one resistor goes to each LED, NOT 2 share a resistor.

DarkMessiah
12-11-2014, 05:55 PM
On the schematic for the switch are u talking about the placement of the wires on the switch? Plus to plus Ect?

And as for the parralel wiring I was getting this wiring from the multi die led wiring tutorial on tcss YouTube channel , given he didn't actually attach the resistor when he did it but he did link the positive to the positive and negative to the negative for parallel wiring is this not recommended?? Or does it completely not work?

Thank you for the quick reply (:

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-11-2014, 06:09 PM
For the switch I am talking about where you are connecting it on the board. If you connect it in one place the light comes on as soon as you pull the kill key, in another place it comes on when the saber comes on. How you want it to behave will determine where on the board you want it to go.

Regarding the parallel wiring, EACH die of the LED needs a (+) and (-) wire going to it (and a resistor on the (+)) from the board/battery. What your diagram shows looks like serial wiring, which NB's can't handle.

DarkMessiah
12-11-2014, 07:27 PM
I Wanted the av switch to light up when the saber ignites, is the wiring correct in that case?

Ok I had seen that way of wiring it too, it was just that I had been told to watch this video http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8CWIKMi-63c by tcss in which they show a different way.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-11-2014, 07:30 PM
Then you have the switch wired correctly.

I slightly disagree with the way he taught that. He's technically correct, however, you do set yourself up to make more mistakes and possibly do damage to your LEDs if you make any mistakes, or the one resistor fails. My way is safer for beginners.

DarkMessiah
12-11-2014, 07:40 PM
Ok thank you very much for the help (: and is the power extender wired correctly?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-11-2014, 07:53 PM
Ok thank you very much for the help (: and is the power extender wired correctly?

No, the negative to the PEX has to come from the battery negative. Look at the diagrams in the manual.

DarkMessiah
12-12-2014, 02:09 AM
Ok I found this diagram (link below) in the manual and it seems to be basically what i am trying to accomplish however, it still shows the two dice with only one resistor, and if I am not mistaken the wires are misplaced on the led (the FoC +- are directly next to each other shouldnt they be on each side of the third die?)

http://imgur.com/EZW4W8D

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-12-2014, 06:12 AM
Yes they should.

Don Se Wion
12-12-2014, 08:50 AM
Choosing a single resistor for two LEDs in parallel is generally not wrong.
However, this way you are doubling the current passing through this resistor you respect a single LED and will need double the wattage, and you did your math correctly.
The problem with this solution is that internal space is a main concern when building sabers and a 4W (or more likely a 5W) resistor is definitely huge.
I normally prefer to use a pair of 2W resistors (one for each LED) since they are smaller than the 5W and even using two of them you save space inside the hilt.

DarkMessiah
12-12-2014, 01:10 PM
Ok this is what I needed to know, you guys are great thank you (: