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Lilac
12-09-2014, 05:18 PM
Dear Diary,

as being a Star Wars fan since my father took me out to see Episode 4 when I was a little boy and the movies were relaunched in the 90s,
a real, metal, solid and home built lightsaber is amongst the greatest wishes I have ever had since then.

Now working in a company that employs some real hardcore Star Wars fans (I consider myself one of them), we quickly found out about the whole Sabersmith community and the MHS system.
I am pretty convinced that the MHS system offers a good start for me - thanks to Tim for this great line of products!

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The old school and "vintage" looks of the 1st Trilogy series definitely seem to be the way to go for me - and design comes first when building your own Lightsaber which also reflects a lot about your personality... I think.

But it also has to work like a real lightsaber. A good soundfont, direct and realistic response while swinging, a really, really bright blade, Movie-Flicker and Flash on Clash - no spoken quotes needed. This is aimed to be straightforward, realistic and duelable. A Crystal Chamber would be thrilling but too much for the start... or isn't it?

I read an article about Sabercolours a while ago, which stated that green blades were rather those of the "negotiators" and blue ones those of the "soldiers". I liked this idea because it somehow fits the characters in the movies.
I wanted to go for a green blade for some time now but currently, I also like the idea of having a mix between green and blue. I read green one look the brightest to the human eye so this would be a point. We'll see...

Currently, a Crystal Focus v7 tri-cree seems to be the way to go but it also seems a little over the top. I want the most realistic sounding saber when it comes to swinging and also a bright blade.
Today I found that the Crystal Focus v7 soundboard seems to fit into the hilt of my design, which I first doubted.

Now I decided to call it "STERLING", referencing the british weaponry roots of Obi Wan's Lightsaber.

This is how I want it to look (Still have to pick one):

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I plan to add some "heavy duty" aging to it, I made some experiences with that while aging electric guitar hardware.

What do you think?
Would the Crystal Focus be right for me?
Can you determine if all the electronics will fit inside the 1.15" hilt?

I will continue to post the steps of my project in this post and hope it will help someone else on his way!

All the Best,
Lilac

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-09-2014, 05:34 PM
First, Welcome to the Forums.

Well, I think that your design seems a bit "short" length wise. Usually hilts are in the 10-12" range, and you are missing the gear on the bottom just before the pommel. Right now, I think you should maybe start off with a smaller and easier sound board, like the NB.

Ty_Bomber
12-09-2014, 05:42 PM
A few notes on the design:

The pommels don't attach to each other the way they're pictured there. The knurled section will need to be added to the end of the large pommel as with custom work with the appropriate fee, but the look should be doable. You will want to email Tim for a quote.

The design is extremely cramped. I personally would have a very difficult time getting anything to fit in that extension. I would recommend a prizm soundboard for this saber. It offers full color mixing like cf, multiple soundfonts like cf, great audio fidelity like the cf, and the sensors are extremely accurate if you properly tune it. Major plus side is it only runs off a single cell battery, preferably an 18650 or 18500 battery, which is going to save you a ton of room in the hilt.

I really like the bottom design, by the way.

Lilac
12-10-2014, 05:13 AM
Thank you so much, this has already been some great advice for me and made me figure out what the next steps should be!

I did some research on the PRIZM, I am correct that the PRIZM basically is a RGB compatible PC? My understanding was that I don't really need to tune the colour with RGB LED's but use a blue and a green LED to mix the colours, am I wrong? I thought the third LED could then be used as the FoC LED.
Would you say the PRIZM/PC is as accurate when it comes to response to movement as the FC? Is it just that the FC has more of the bells and whistles ( like 16 swing sounds vs. 8 )?

I am pretty impressed by what the CF is capable of. The Saberfont demos for this system had the most accurate swing I have seen so far and I really like the spin.
@Ty_Bomber, you wrote that you would "have a hard time", getting everything in - do you think it's impossible? Could you recommend a battery for a CF tri-cree saber?
I have about 5.1" in length with a 1.15" diameter - this would have to fit the speaker, SB, battery and wiring. As long as it would somehow be possible, making the hilt longer is not really an option... I feel it just doesn't look right.

Oh and thanks for the info on the pommel cap!

Damn this is complex :mad:

Thanks guys!

Obi1
12-10-2014, 08:26 AM
Guten Abend!
Well, those look really great, as close as anyone got to an Obi-Wan using TCSS parts. Thanks for sharing them, I got some Inspiration looking at them already.
As to cram-fu challange, Ty_Bomber is fully right, looking at the design - while it Looks great - it does not lend itself to a CF Setup, you migth want to really look at a Prism. One reason is: Prism has everything a superb saber needs, that extra which differentiates a CF from a Prism you are not going to cram in into that cramped space anyway.
I can't wait to see the completed saber, Keep posting as you go on with your build.

Ty_Bomber
12-10-2014, 10:53 AM
Part of the reason I suggested the Prizm (which is a PC optimized for color mixing on the fly). The PC and the Crystal Focus 7 also support color mixing with the addition of the satellite color extender. Since the Prizm has native color mixing, it doesn’t require the add on board, and since it only requires one battery to operate, you save significant space in your hilt, which will absolutely be required with this design.



Would a Crystal Focus7/two-cell battery pack and color extender install be impossible? No, but it would be beyond my skill, and probably yours. Not to sell you short, but it is extremely easy to over-estimate the space inside a hilt, and your ability to wire everything in soundly, trust me.



I would not argue that the sensitivity on the CF7 is without compare, and spins, stabs and combos are fun. But the Prizm’s sensors are the same as used on the CF6, which was also without equal just one year ago. I have never heard anyone express disappointment by responsiveness of the board, especially after fine tuning it with RICE.



In the end, I think that it would be too frustrating to attempt to install a fully featured Crystal Focus into this particular hilt design. You could potentially damage your board or the saber during the install trying in vain to get it to fit. I recommend a PC 3.5/Prizm install for now with the Panasonic 3.7V 3400mah 18650 pre-wired battery pack. You should be able to fit everything in that hilt, but it will still be challenging. If things come easily, you could always build another saber, or upgrade your current one to a CF once your skills are up to the task.



Hope this helps.

Lilac
12-10-2014, 03:29 PM
Thanks so much to all of you helping me out with my beginner questions, this is absolutely great!

So I have been thinking about the design and worked on a way to add an extra 2" to the hilt. I assume it doesn't change much about the fact that CF will be hard to realize as a first build on this saber. I once trained japanese and chinese sword focused martial arts and believe that I will miss the spin sound effect a lot with the way I handle these things. But I see the point. Thanks for making that so clear! :-)

I think I have decided for the top design from the picture in the 1st post and made an alternative 2" longer design... which I also like because it takes it just a little away from the compactness of the previous idea but it also adds an interesting bit of elegance to it. I today read that placing the speaker just some inch away from the pommel cap enhances the sound of the overall saber - would you agree?
Tomorrow I will try to figure out how to calculate how far the battery "Ty-Bomber" recommended will take me in a triple LED setup.

@Obi1, which extras of the CF (which I wouldn't need) exactly are you thinking of? I am still trying to fully understand the differences between all the Soundboards. :-)

This is the new design in comparison to the original, bot regular & internal view.

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snilam
12-10-2014, 04:57 PM
I would say you are still on the small side. What kind of switches are you using? If av switches you are going to have issues as they take up alot of space aswell. Also are using this as a single handed, hand and ahalf, or twohanded saber? What you have is definately a single handed saber? Obi uses more of a hand and half two handed style (im not super literate on saber forms). This is just my opinion but you still need to be a little bigger, especially with that box on the side can make it feel awkward in the hand being that short.

Ty_Bomber
12-10-2014, 05:38 PM
Here is a comparison chart of plecter boards.

http://plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/CompareBoards/plecter_boards.php

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-10-2014, 05:48 PM
I'll save you a little work, depending on which 18650 you get and which color(s) you use, you should get a little over an hour of run time. Even though you did add 2" (which is not much at all), you should be able to fit a Prizm, battery and speaker in there.

The CF more sound banks, and some gesture detection based sounds (like stab) that the other boards don't, and slightly better motion detection. I will agree with Ty_Bomber that an install like that with a CEX is impossible. Even without the CEX, you would more or less need to have an advanced skill level. Ane even then you would only be able to get 14650 pack in there (if you're real lucky). I think the Prizm and a single 18650 would be a bit easier for you to do. Though switches will still be a bit of an issue for you to do.

Lilac
12-11-2014, 10:49 AM
I would say you are still on the small side. What kind of switches are you using? If av switches you are going to have issues as they take up alot of space aswell. Also are using this as a single handed, hand and ahalf, or twohanded saber? What you have is definately a single handed saber?

I haven't decided on the switches yet. I am pretty sure that I am not going to use the ones TCSS sells, simply because I don't like the colour glowing switches and the choice of non glowing switches is rather small.
I found a German shop who sells hundreds of different quality momentary and latching switches. See links below for some favourites:

http://www.reichelt.de/Drucktaster-Druckschalter/MS-131-RT/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=13136&GROUPID=3277&artnr=MS+131+RT
http://www.reichelt.de/Drucktaster-Druckschalter/RAFI-120-104/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=110865&GROUPID=3277&artnr=RAFI+120.104
http://www.reichelt.de/Drucktaster-Druckschalter/T-1212-A/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=105698&GROUPID=3277&artnr=T+1212+A
http://www.reichelt.de/Drucktaster-Druckschalter/TP-42-W0/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=105670&GROUPID=3277&artnr=TP+42+W0
They also sell the ones TCSS is selling, the shop is known for high quality electronic accessories.

The way I use this saber will be mostly one handed, the space between pommel and activation box gives enough space for a second hand the way I would use it.

Thanks to Ty_Bomber again for the link, this has shed some light.

And thanks also to Forgetful Jedi Knight for the battery runtime estimate and your contribution to my knowledge :-)
The saber will be Green or a Green/Blue mix, depending on what is practical to do.

Silver Serpent
12-11-2014, 10:56 AM
If you don't want your switch to light up, you can simply not hook up the LED in the switch. The LED terminals are completely independant from the switch mechanism.

Lilac
12-11-2014, 12:16 PM
Really? Good point, I didn't know that :D
I think I still want to look for something else, the switches TCSS sells mostly look a bit too "prequel-saga" like to me... I was looking for something with more of an "industrial" style.
But I am also not even sure where exactly to put them yet.
Am I right that I will basically need three switches? On/Off, Blasterblock & blade lock?

Silver Serpent
12-11-2014, 12:37 PM
The Nano Biscotte board uses a single momentary switch.

The Petit Crouton uses two switches; one that is either momentary or latching, and an auxilliary switch that must be momentary.

You will not need more than two switches. There are lots of different switch styles out there. Find something you like, that is compatible with your sound board, and you'll be fine.

snilam
12-11-2014, 12:38 PM
2. one for activation, one for aux. Aux switch will serve as lockupand blaster block. A tap will engage blaster block a hold down will engage lockup

if you are still looking at doing a really short hilt i would recommend tactiles for space saving sake.

Lilac
12-12-2014, 11:40 AM
Thanks for the clarification regarding the number of switches needed, that makes things a little easier.

I think I will figure out where to place the switches when the basic hilt parts arrive and I can get a feeling for the whole thing. I will order the parts in January and take the rest of the time to prepare myself best for all the wiring stuff and to figure out which blade I should get.

Thanks to everyone so far, you have been a great help. I will let you know when there is anything new to show!
Info for everyone interested: price for all the hilt parts including powder coating - a little over 200$ (no electronics and blade)

Best,
Lilac

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Lilac
03-17-2015, 03:49 PM
Just a little update on this thread, parts are ordered!

The stop of powder coating during the winter months slowed down the process a little bit and now that Powder Coating from the Custom Saber Shop is completely cancelled I was a bit frustrated. But I am now planning to do all the finishing myself and after talking to some people who are familiar with finishes like that, I am actually in good spirits again :-)

The Parts should arrive in a couple of days and I'll post some other updates then.

Lilac
03-23-2015, 04:31 PM
So we (my friend is building one too) picked up the parts today and I wanted to give everyone who's reading this thread a little update.

But first of all, because I was reading through this thread again in the last days, I wanted to point out that this is not supposed to become an Obi Wan saber. It seems I was a little misleading about that. This is definitely Obi inspired but I didn't want to make one just like his.

I also want to tell everyone who might be reading who has not yet started building a lightsaber that the parts you get stock from the custom saber shop are truly amazing. Tim has done a great job with these and once you hold them in your hand you'll instantly be motivated to keep going! Sure, if you are able to machine them yourself you'll get your saber to look even better - but these are a great, amazing start.

We ordered just the basic hilt parts yet, since we plan to get the blades, LED's and soundboards from European sources to save tax. Unfortunately, the activation box style 7 (the Graflex styled one) was out of stock so I am currently missing the clamp from the original design. I am thinking about getting one from eBay but the only one I found is about 60$, which feels too much for me now - is that a common price?
Anyway, just so you know that the parts are not complete yet...

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We bought a basic blade plug just to have something to start with. I plan on doing something with coils from a magnetic motor... we'll see.
What I really love about the MHS parts is that you get some nice extras out of the box which I did not expect to be there. I always thought that having the additional holes around the emitter on the blade holder light up when the saber is activated would be neat. I planned to drill holes so that the light would shine through but when I unpacked the part, I found that there already was a machined channel for the small holes to light up. I really loved that attention to detail.

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This last pic is a little mockup on what I want the finish of the finished saber to look like. I am thinking about a slightly weathered gold/brass - grey/black finish. As I said the activation box is missing on this picture. This would go over the first rib towards the pommel. And there are no switches and ports just now - I will have to think about these next.

Thanks everyone for reading!

Cheers,
Lilac

San Tala
03-25-2015, 09:14 AM
Looks pretty sweet!

Lilac
04-01-2015, 04:36 PM
Thanks San Tala!

I am currently trying to find the time to make a detailed internal drawing to see how much space there really is. Rough measurements suggested a CF7.5 would fit but it would be extremely crammed - I want to try it nonetheless :-)
I'll keep you updated on the progress. To start with all the finishing, which I wanted to do before I wire everything up, I still need the Graflex Clamp. I have been searching for one for a couple of days now - they seem to be rather expensive.

Whatever, I hope the next days will shed some light.

Here's a sketch of what I want Sterling to look like.

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Thanks for all your support so far!
I am really excited to start the build!

Lilac

Lilac
04-04-2015, 10:18 AM
I did a 1:1 internal drawing of the hilt today to see how much space I actually have for the parts. As I posted earlier, I want to try to get a CF7.5 in there.
I was hoping for some comments from some experienced saber smiths around here on how realistic these ideas really are. From what I see it should be possible. I know I did not include the wiring, switches or jacks so far. I would think there should be enough space for 2 tactile switches and the two jacks (RICE and Charge).

What do you think?

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Forgetful Jedi Knight
04-04-2015, 11:32 AM
I think it's a bit too ambitious. You forgot some type of chassis, the switches you use will be important, as would the placement of the recharge port/RICE port.

Lilac
06-03-2015, 04:37 PM
Just some little updates here.

I have ordered a blade from SaberProject and drilled and tapped the hole for the blade retention screw - first time, pretty exciting!

I found some parts to build a blade plug from, I am probably going to to something about the top part.

I am currently waiting for some parts to get back in stock when TCSS has moved - I wish them all the best, you guys are great!

Thanks to everyone for reading or commenting on this thread, I really appreciate that.

Cheers,
Lilac

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Lilac
06-28-2015, 05:35 AM
TCSS seems to stock many parts again now, so I was able to place another order for internal parts.

In the meantime, I spent some time with the finish:

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Lilac
07-22-2017, 07:19 PM
This has turned out to be more of a long-term project.

Since the last post I have ruined a NB board, ordered a new one and repainted the parts with spray paint because I didn't really like the look of the brush paint.

I also experimented a bit with the weathering and I am very happy with how it turned out. It would have been smart to seal the gold colours with a layer of clear-coat but I didn't - which caused a bit of the gold to come off when I rubbed off the black weathering coats. I am still happy with how it looks now. I wanted the saber to look like something that was made around the Episode III/IV timreframe but with a different colour scheme than the usual Metal/Chrome/Black styles. The weathering became a little more harsh than I originally wanted but I like that it now looks like it's been left on a desert junkyard for 20 years.

I still need a good location for the activation switch. That is the next step before starting to work on the electronics. Any ideas? The chassis is ready.

I'm excited to finish this thing now.
Cheers guys!
Lilac

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hapki
07-23-2017, 01:57 PM
Very nice. I like the weathering and coloring.

Therion Jinn
07-23-2017, 04:32 PM
Looking good

rlobrecht
07-24-2017, 06:21 AM
Nice work.

Denz
07-25-2017, 05:29 AM
Looks great!

-Denzil

Lilac
07-26-2017, 11:47 AM
Thanks very much, guys!

I figured the best place for the switch would be at the front end of the deep ribbed section. In order to fit the tactile switch holder ring in there I had to cut and sand the choke section down.
It now fits perfectly. Next step is to find the exact location for the switch hole and drill it.

BTW: has anyone ever drilled top down into the small black tactile switches and installed a small screw for a button? I'm thinking about doing that but it might be too fragile.

Cheers,
Lilac

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Lilac
07-27-2017, 11:10 AM
I have worked on some more little details today.

For a long time, I had the idea of putting a circle like spring inside the last groove of the ribbed section as some sort of vent in the area where the Graflex Clamp goes. I have since looked for a spring that might fit and found one today.
Still needs a bit of tweaking but I like the detail.

Cheers,
Lilac

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Lilac
07-31-2017, 01:11 PM
Activation switch done! This was huge to me because it required to most amount of work (meaning filing, sanding and drilling) on the hilt itself. I am not too familiar with that kind of work.
I will try to drill into the switch button to fit a very small screw or something as a button. I don't really like how it looks now.

Next up is electronics and some little details.
Cheers guys!





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Rampant
07-31-2017, 04:10 PM
For the switch, check out darth_chasm's tutorial for a great, simple way to add a brass cap to the switch. Would work perfectly with your setup there.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?18426-Walk-Through-Decorative-Brass-Heads-For-Tactile-Switches&highlight=custom+brass+switch

Lilac
08-01-2017, 01:33 AM
Amazing, thanks!
If only the Fotos were still online...