Switch help with 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch

[ActionBastard6969]

good morning. so i have my saber all wired up and working.
(battery to switch + switch to led along with battery to led with a resistor)

when i press the switch in, the led goes off. when i press the switch out it lights up lol. i would like it the opposite way around, so when u press the switch in, the led would go on. also i notice that the switch can light up but mine wont.

did anyone have this problem?

i am using a 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch.
if you click this link and look at the schematic i have my battery pack soldered to the "C1" and then my led soldered to "NC1"

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Latching-Red-Ring-Switch-P413.aspx

can anyone tell me how to fix my switch to get it lit up as well as switching on and off properly lol.

much thanks.

[Silver Serpent]

Move the wire from NC1 to NO1. A quick fix.

[ActionBastard6969]

i will try that later today when i get home from work. thank you =)

[ActionBastard6969]

ok so I wired the switch how you told me ( I have battery pack to switch (C1) then (no1) to led and the battery pack to resistor to led )
it is turning on correctly now so im pressing in to light it up butt now im not sure what to wire up to make the button light up haha

I tried to hook the LED terminals to the pack + led but then it just stays lit.

still lost haha sorry XD
def lots fun trying to figure it out tho.

[TwinMill]

Here's a quick diagram I drew up, I think it's accurate for what you are wanting
(if I read right, you want the switch led to turn on / off synchronized with the blade?)
Note the second set of wires going from the battery to the + & - tabs on the switch.

You didn't say what battery you're using, but that would affect how to make the
switch LED work. (see R2 on diagram)

3.7v battery needs 82 Ohm, 1/8 W.
7.4v battery needs 270 Ohm, 1/4 W.
...At least according to the resistor calculator in Serpent's sig.

The Dyna-Ohm resistor is also a good choice for any battery sold here, it's self adjusting
to always provide the 20 mA needed by the switch led. A word of caution, it is polarity
dependent, so if you connect it backwards it won't work.
10639

edit: I know the location of the switch terminals aren't accurate, but this was just a
quick MS Paint drawing.

[Silver Serpent]

That diagram is incorrect TwinMill. You need to move the switch LED+ to the other side of the switch. The way you have it, the switch LED will remain on all the time.

[The Yin]

When I first worked with one of these switch I was confused as well.
This is a diagram of how I wired mine up with a PC sound board: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?15084-PC-wiring-diagram
That might not help since there is a lot going on in that diagram, but for your setup you can try this:
10640

Hopefully this doesn't confuse you more, but here is how it is wired:
First thing to realize is that this switch is actually 2 switches in one. Which is cool, because you can run to circuits with the one switch. In this case one switch will turn on the LED in the switch, and the other will turn on the Blade LED.
Basicly C1 or C2 is where the power goes in to the switch.
NO1 or NO2 (Normally Open) is where the power comes from the switch when the button is pushed DOWN, and no power when it is up.
NC1 or NC2 (Normally Closed) is where the power comes from the switch when the button is UP, and no power when it is down.

Soooo, since we want both the Switch LED and the Blade LED to come on when the button is down, we will want them connected to NO1 or NO2.
The reason I used both C1/NO1 and C2/NO2 is because the Switch LED will need a resistor (the orange scribe).

So basically you have to wire NO1 to the LED Terminal+, and then wire LED Terminal- to the battery-

[The Yin]

Or this: since you've got the Blade LED on C1/NO1. You can connect NO1 also to the LED terminal +, and then have a resister after the LED Terminal- on the way to the battery Negative.
10641

[Silver Serpent]

Yin's 2nd diagram is correct.

[ActionBastard6969]

wow, ok that was a pretty clear explanation =) also thank you so much for those diagrams, im still trying to pick up on all this electrical work.
unfortunatly i didnt get a chance to try this out lastnight but i think i will have time to wire things up. thank you all so much again for taking the time to explain things to me =) i will let you know how it goes

[TwinMill]

That diagram is incorrect TwinMill. You need to move the switch LED+ to the other side of the switch. The way you have it, the switch LED will remain on all the time.

I totally see what you mean. I was so tired that night, way past my usual bed time. Almost can't believe I missed a seemingly obvious detail like that.
~(_8(|) D'oh!!!

[hapki]

I'm glad to see this. I didn't know what NO and NC meant. This is useful information.