First build in a long time

[akaert2002]

Im building my first saber in years. I have never done any sound, but that is not the part I question.
I am going with the green Rebel Star Pre-Wired LED & MHS Heatsink Module for the ease of it. It says it should be ran at 1000mA. Im assuming they want a buckpuck, but I have no clue about them. How are they wired? Everything I remember has you wire straight to the led.
Next question, I will be running a av switch and maybe 1 accent light for now, maybe 2 in the future. What should do for power?
Last is I'm confused by the resister calculator.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure I will come up with more.

[TwinMill]

If you check the 1000 mA buckpuck page: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/BuckPuck-1000mA-4-wire-P364.aspx it is a fairly straightforward wiring.
The wires are labeled and color coded, so it's pretty difficult to get wrong. On it's description page, it claims to take the place of a resistor. I'd probably
still want to add at least a small resistor for safety if I was building a stunt saber. (A resistor is cheaper to replace than a burned out LED module.) The
buckpuck does require a minimum of 5 volts, so you have at least a few choices... A 7.4v battery pack, a 4AA battery holder and alkaline batteries
(although replacing them would quickly get expensive) Another possibility is using a 2AA battery holder and a pair of 3.7v 14500 Li-Ions.

When I first built my saber (before upgrading to sound) I used a single 14500 Li-Ion battery and connected it to the LED with a 1 Ohm, 2 Watt
resistor (on the positive side).

[Silver Serpent]

I'm going to agree with everything TwinMill stated, except that you don't need a resistor with the BuckPuck. The BuckPuck will properly regulate current to your LED, and you won't have to worry about it burning anything out. Just be sure you get the proper BuckPuck (1000mA or 700mA) for your LED.

I generally recommend resistors for simple builds. They're less expensive than the pucks, take up less room, and let you use a single li-ion battery instead of needing two. A puck is nice, but it tends to fill up your hilt very fast for a minimal increase in battery life.

[akaert2002]

Would I want the 4 or 6 wire buckpuck?

[Silver Serpent]

Either is fine. The extra two wires can be hooked up to a resistor or a potentiometer to dim the LED, or they can be ignored. Your choice. :)

[akaert2002]

Ok thanks for the info. As im looking at parts and stuff, Im planing on using the pc 3.5 card. Is says nothing about the main power on button if it needs to be a momentary or latching. I am assuming momentary. This is the first time I am using a card.

[Ty_Bomber]

If you're looking at a PC board, you won't have to worry about buckpucks. The board will regulate the current of the led, or you will be running off a single cell anyway, in the event you're using a Prizm PC 3.5.

[Silver Serpent]

From the PC 3.5 manual, page 6:

Handles momentary or latching for blade activation

The aux button must be momentary, but the main switch can be either. Don't forget to check the setting in the config file before you try to turn on the saber the first time.

[akaert2002]

If you're looking at a PC board, you won't have to worry about buckpucks. The board will regulate the current of the led, or you will be running off a single cell anyway, in the event you're using a Prizm PC 3.5.

So are you saying no buckpuck is necessary? Then would I need a resister?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

So are you saying no buckpuck is necessary? Then would I need a resister?

Not if you are using a PC or Prizm. You might need a resistor depending on which board, how SPECIFICALLY you have things wired. You will need resistors for the Prizm, and for dice wired to the FoC pads.

[akaert2002]

My plan is the PC 3.5. FoC pads?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

My plan is the PC 3.5. FoC pads?

Read the manual (several times).

[akaert2002]

What are FoC pads?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

What are FoC pads?

Read the manual!!