JST Connector LEDs, ETC Question

[jedimastergarcia87]

So I'm wondering, most of my electronics will be the MWS's, is there much soldering needed at all? It'll be the main LED, switch, and battery pack. I know only thing that'll need soldered is the buck puck but wanted to make sure. Not really sure how the MWS stuff works. Its gonna be a stunt set up for now so. Thanks for the info on that. =] If the new BH27 would be added to the MHS builder I'd show what the main hilt will look like.

[WookieeGunner]

My understanding is the whole purpose of MWS is that the soldering is done (and Tim does list an MWS buck puck). It's just a matter of connecting the pieces, no soldering.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Nice. So basically being lazy about it. Lol. In all seriousness if no one hardly has any soldering skills made it easier for them. Tim rocks. :P This makes me feel more confident in my build then. I'll probably just do everything all at once then. And I didn't realize about the MWS buck puck either actually.

[bigkevin61]

If you are doing Sound, with the MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module V2 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Pre-Wired-Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V2-P835.aspx), the Description lists the connectors as such:
This is the MWS pre-wired version. These boards come wired with JST connectors for the following connectors.
1x Main LED (Blue- White+ JST)
1x Switch (momentary only) (Yellow JST)
1x Battery (Black- Red+ JST)
1x Speaker (Green JST)
1x FoC lead (Orange Wire)

Keep in mind that the Nano Biscotte does not regulate current to your LED (like say the Petit Crouton does), and you would still have to solder the proper resistor between the JST Connector and LED in the "LED Module", for your particular LED and Battery setup, in order to protect your LED. (FYI: The Nano Biscotte cannot be powered with a battery solution with greater then 5.5V)
Also this does NOT come wired for a AV Switch with an LED.

If you are going to build a "stunt" saber (no sound), you have a couple of different options. If you want to go "100% solder free", it could be done with these:
Rebel Star Pre-Wired LED & MHS Heatsink Module (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx)
For ALL BUT Red & Amber, a 1,000ma, or for Red & Amber 700ma MWS BuckPuck (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-BuckPuck--P748.aspx)
A Latching Switch like this: MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Nickel (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Long-Latching-16mm-AV-Switch-Nickel-P901.aspx) OR a Momentary Switch like this: MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Nickel (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Short-Momentary-16mm-AV-Switch-Nickel-P878.aspx) WITH this: MWS Momentary to Latching Converter (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Momentary-to-Latching-Converter-P932.aspx) (the Momentary & Converter I recommend, as it has the "out" JST Connector for the AV Switch LED)
And either a 4AA Battery Holder with JST connector (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AA-Battery-Holder-with-JST-connector-P723.aspx) for use with 4 "normal" batteries, or a Li-Ion Pack like this: 7.4v Li-ion 1050mAh 14650 Battery Pack (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74v-Li-ion-1050mAh-14650-Battery-Pack-P759.aspx), and also MWS Recharge Port (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Recharge-Port-P877.aspx) for easy recharging.
NOTE: Both Battery Solutions in this case are in excess of 5V, as the BuckPuck needs >5V to work, and the DynaOhm resistor wired in the pre-wired AV Switch needs >~5.5V to work properly. The 7.4V Li-Ion, or 4 Alkaline (4 x 1.5V Each = 6V). Nickel type batteries have lower Voltages (typically 1.2V each) and 4 x 1.2V Each = 4.8V, and wouldn't work in this setup.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Yeah I'm doing all MWS but my blade will be a green blade so the 1000 buck puck. And just doing the regular guarded switch with a red button for a pre quels era style look. Only other thing I'll be wondering is when the new LEDs come out is if they'll be able to handle the same power source and such because I'm wanting to try the new lime green if TCSS gets it in right away.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Thanks for all the info on that by the way. =]

[bigkevin61]

Thanks for all the info on that by the way. =]

No Problem, I researched all this a year ago when planning out my saber (sill in process), before deciding (against sound advice) to go "all in" and try a really complicated build that required me to solder.
With that being said, soldering is not a skill that is impossible to learn. You can find decently priced Soldering Irons (there have been a few threads on that topic), and with a bit of practice on junk wire and parts (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) you can expand your options. If you do eventually try your hand at soldering, PRACTICE first. I'm new at soldering, but even I cringed at some threads with "noobs" trying to slap a saber together with very little idea of how to solder correctly (once again, there are some good threads and links here that helped me immensely!)

My Practice was what you see as my avatar. "Competition Legal" Tardis Pinewood Derby Car, with lights and sound! Some Radioshack parts (LED, wire, Battery Pack for the light, and a speaker, as I wired a stereo plug connector for a ipod shuffle), with a Radioshack Soldering Iron (I have since upgraded!)

[jedimastergarcia87]

We have one and have people around that actually know how to solder but I only really care to have a stunt saber for now. Like before I'll probably upgrade to sound later on. Just wish the new blade holder would get in the darn builder. u.u

[jedimastergarcia87]

And you and my brother would get along. Lol. He LOVES Dr. Who. :P

[bigkevin61]

Just wish the new blade holder would get in the darn builder. u.u

I was almost done getting my order together (for my son's saber), when I saw new BH. I too would love to see it in the builder, and was seriously thinking about getting it anyway, but ended up sticking with the original design.