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bigkevin61
11-29-2014, 10:41 PM
1) I know you can Mix (with a more advanced Soundcard, or 'manually' with resistors) an RGB LED (like a tri-rebel) using R&G. I'm looking to avoid this, as I'm using a NB2 and the process of fine tuning resistances is more work then I would like to undertake, even just in parellel, with two resistors (unless I'm mistaken and it really is just that easy)
I've bookmarked Obi1's "Color mixing with a NB1.0" Thread, and while I get the idea (and you could get practically ANY color), I'm a bit new to the whole electronics thing, and he didn't post "noob" level instructions!
2) I've searched for 'orange blades' in the forums, and the most recent results (with pics) are 2-3 years old (and I know the LED technology had changed).
3) a google definition search of the color 'Amber' suggests and orangey look, but I see pretty Yellow looking Blades using Amber LEDs (more forum searches). Leaving "bins" out of the discussion (I've read up on that here as well, and I know you can't choose), typically, how "orange" does an Amber Rebel look?
4) there are also "red-orange" rebel LEDs, and I also wonder how "orange" they are (or are they more red)?
5) I've looked into sourcing an LED directly from Luxeon, and I wonder if red-orange is too red, and Amber is to yellow, could you get a Red-Orange/Amber/White tri-rebel, and wire the two in parallel, to get a decent orange (and save white for FOC)?

I rather learn from those who may have more experience with this then I, as popping off $20 custom Tri-Rebels is a bit expensive for trial & error testing!

Thanks!

amwolf
11-30-2014, 05:57 AM
You might wind this thread interesting from over @ FX; the basic theory would be the same for the tri-rebs while the led color would have slight variations from the LEDEngine discussed. http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=35731.msg481818#new

The amber rebels are very yellow. I've not used a RO yet.

Yoshi-Taka
11-30-2014, 07:02 AM
I've only used orange by colour mixing. But mixing Amber and Red makes a fantastic orange for a blade. It seriously looks like Sunkist and it's rad.

And yes, it really is that easy. Wire it in parallel, put a resistor on each positive (both dice can use the same type of resistor), let it run. Last time I used it was with an NBv1.

Ty_Bomber
11-30-2014, 09:27 AM
I've actually found the ambers to be very orange, myself. Like really orange. If you want more of a blood orange, mix with red, but I think you will be happier with amber (they tend to look more golden/yellow on camera).

Whi-ja
11-30-2014, 10:49 AM
I've ordered some LEDs advertised as 5W pure orange; they should be here in a couple of weeks. I'll let you know if they are any good as a single-color orange solution and what their forward current / voltage requirements are. Otherwise, I'd say go with the Amber-and-Red mix that was suggested earlier.

Obi1
11-30-2014, 01:53 PM
I also think that the best orange you are going to get when you mix red with amber. In my mixing scheme I used so far always RGB, and while mixing red with green gives you an orangish color, it's still not the rigth hue somehow. On the other hand I have an amber LED module, it's already very promising, a bit red added to it shall make it real agressive orange/fiery.

bigkevin61
11-30-2014, 09:41 PM
You might wind this thread interesting from over @ FX; the basic theory would be the same for the tri-rebs while the led color would have slight variations from the LEDEngine discussed. http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=35731.msg481818#new

The amber rebels are very yellow. I've not used a RO yet.
Thanks amwolf! I signed up to the FX Forums a while ago, but sadly I cannot remember my ID/Passowrd combination, and I'm rarely on a PC to go through the "forgot your password" steps. (I'm mostly on a mobile, and the TCSS forums are friendly for that!)


I've only used orange by colour mixing. But mixing Amber and Red makes a fantastic orange for a blade. It seriously looks like Sunkist and it's rad.

And yes, it really is that easy. Wire it in parallel, put a resistor on each positive (both dice can use the same type of resistor), let it run. Last time I used it was with an NBv1.
Also Thanks Yoshi-Taka! I'm much more comfortable giving a Red-Amber-White custom LED a try, if it has been done before and looks good! As a side note, I'm sorry to hear you are on hiatus, as your Pony-Saber series is what convinced me I can take a shot at doing this myself! (The original thought was to make a Daughter a "pony" themed saber, as she is REALLY into that show, and seeing what you did was of great inspiration! Unfortunately life happens, and that idea was tabled) Now you have me curious, and I'm going to have to look through your builds again, as off the top of my head, I can't remember seeing an orange...


I've actually found the ambers to be very orange, myself. Like really orange. If you want more of a blood orange, mix with red, but I think you will be happier with amber (they tend to look more golden/yellow on camera).
Also also Thanks Ty_Bomber! I was reading up an Ambers and it seems that Bin-ing is an issue with them, similar to Cyan, where you can get quite a swing in color between the different bins. It is interesting to hear that in one person's experience, it looks orange, and in other's (amwolf's) they look yellow.


I also think that the best orange you are going to get when you mix red with amber. In my mixing scheme I used so far always RGB, and while mixing red with green gives you an orangish color, it's still not the right hue somehow. On the other hand I have an amber LED module, it's already very promising, a bit red added to it shall make it real aggressive orange/fiery.
Also, also, also Thanks Obi1! I've wired up a RGrB led with a CF7 with an Color Extender, and using the RICE port, changed the LED config to get to an "orange", but I would agree, it does look like something is "missing". Not as much "pop" as I would like.
My son wants an orange blade (hence this thread) BUT I have more family members to build for (eventually). I can see my daughter wanting one that can be changed (Sorry, the CF7 is for dad ONLY!), so I would love to try what you did in the "Color mixing with a NB1.0" Thread. Would you mind if I PM'd you some questions of that once I get to that point? I'm trying to learn as much about electronics (without taking an class), and I do follow your process, but I'm not sure on a few points...

Yoshi-Taka
12-01-2014, 09:33 AM
Also Thanks Yoshi-Taka! I'm much more comfortable giving a Red-Amber-White custom LED a try, if it has been done before and looks good! As a side note, I'm sorry to hear you are on hiatus, as your Pony-Saber series is what convinced me I can take a shot at doing this myself! (The original thought was to make a Daughter a "pony" themed saber, as she is REALLY into that show, and seeing what you did was of great inspiration! Unfortunately life happens, and that idea was tabled) Now you have me curious, and I'm going to have to look through your builds again, as off the top of my head, I can't remember seeing an orange...

Thank you, sir. I actually used the exact LED you described - a RAW (red-amber-white). If you want, I can hook it back up and get some pics and a video for you. And before you say anything, no it's not an inconvenience. I make the offer because I don't have a thread here in which I used it. Also, since you're wanting to make a saber for your daughter, I can give you the recipe for my secret pink blade.

EDIT:
Too late, already did both.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/SA-JtK/IMG_0065_zps72af68c6.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/SA-JtK/IMG_0066_zps3697b2ba.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/SA-JtK/IMG_0067_zps1a6c584a.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/SA-JtK/IMG_0068_zps97c05b61.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/SA-JtK/IMG_0069_zpsf98104c2.jpg

Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hs4oLo-PDvI

Red-Amber-White LED here. RA wired in parallel, both have dice each have a 2W 2 ohm resistor, and runs perfectly fine on a Nano Biscotte V1 and V2 (I've used it with both. Also used it with a PCv3 wired in series to the same exact effect). The orange glow is exactly how the blade looks in person. Watch the video, stare at my bathroom tile, and that's the colour of the blade. Or go to a store and look at a bottle of Sunkist; same exact colour. I hope this helps!

FenderBender
12-01-2014, 01:06 PM
We've been mixing true orange for years. You CAN get great shades of orange mixing R and G. Put a 1ohm 2W on the RED, and a 3ohm 1W on the green and bam! Orange.


http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/AJFenderBender/2014%20Pictures/100_4438_zpsb3779dd2.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/AJFenderBender/media/2014%20Pictures/100_4438_zpsb3779dd2.jpg.html)

Obi1
12-02-2014, 04:15 AM
Sure you can drop a pm. Just be patient, sometimes I jsut oversee that small icon saying I have a new message...

bigkevin61
12-02-2014, 09:17 PM
Thank you, sir. I actually used the exact LED you described - a RAW (red-amber-white). If you want, I can hook it back up and get some pics and a video for you. And before you say anything, no it's not an inconvenience. I make the offer because I don't have a thread here in which I used it.

EDIT:
Too late, already did both.

...

Red-Amber-White LED here. RA wired in parallel, both have dice each have a 2W 2 ohm resistor, and runs perfectly fine on a Nano Biscotte V1 and V2 (I've used it with both. Also used it with a PCv3 wired in series to the same exact effect). The orange glow is exactly how the blade looks in person. Watch the video, stare at my bathroom tile, and that's the colour of the blade. Or go to a store and look at a bottle of Sunkist; same exact colour. I hope this helps!

WOW. Thanks, that was AWESOME. (That bathroom reminds me of an apartment I rented MANY moon ago, with the white tile and all)
I see how you can describe the color as "Sunkist". I wonder if there are any other beverages used as color descriptors... "I have a Mountain Dew Blade"...
I think that "kind of orange" would work well for the build, as I have some parts PC'd (and accented) with the Jollipop Copper Orange.
As for that saber, isn't that your "Absolute Zero" saber? I thought that had a white blade. Do you build your sabers with easy LED Swap-ability?

Yoshi-Taka
12-02-2014, 09:48 PM
WOW. Thanks, that was AWESOME. (That bathroom reminds me of an apartment I rented MANY moon ago, with the white tile and all)
I see how you can describe the color as "Sunkist". I wonder if there are any other beverages used as color descriptors... "I have a Mountain Dew Blade"...
I think that "kind of orange" would work well for the build, as I have some parts PC'd (and accented) with the Jollipop Copper Orange.
As for that saber, isn't that your "Absolute Zero" saber? I thought that had a white blade. Do you build your sabers with easy LED Swap-ability?
I had been drinking Sunkist earlier in the day and then I compared the colours and thought "huh. My lightsaber blade is a soda."
Yes, that's Absolute Zero. It had a white/blue blade but I rewired my orange LED for this thread. I swapped it back to a normal blue blade afterword.

To answer your second question, I use JST connectors for everything. They make life MUCH easier, especially because I swap out blade LEDs frequently (I've also been known to gut my sabers frequently. One day it'll be a stunt, then it'll have sound, then it'll be a stunt again... I can never make up my mind. JSTs make that super easy to do.). It also helps that I don't ever have to stuff much into a saber - typically a Nano Biscotte, the one battery, a speaker, a recharge port, and a short AV switch. Plenty of room for all that in a Main Body piece. Just some food for thought.