New guy odd setup/ request

[31bravo]

Ok guys here's the story I'm new to this but a good friend of mine has a 7 year old son who is terminally Ill with a rare inoperable brain tumor. So come his 8th birthday January 26th we are planning to take him to Disneyland and he will have his own lightsaber. Because of his age and condition we are wanting to make a very small and light weight expensive flashlight. So please help me in anyway you can. He's wanting a small Yoda (his favorite character) like saber that just lights up and do to only having motor control on one side of his body will be a single handed saber.

Body:
Pommel style 1
4 inch extension tube
Blade holder style 23 w/ tap service 8-32

Electronics:
Spst latching guarded switch
700ma Buck Puck
Rebel star LED & mhs heat sink in royal blue
LED "tcss style" battle blade 28-32 inches undecided

I know the obvious thing I am missing is a battery which is why I need some advice I was thinking of running a A23 style battery setup here are the specs:
A23 12v 55 mah each I'll be using 4 of those dimensions for the battery holder is 1.41 inches long, .98 inches high and 1.04 wide. I'm just not sure this will provide enough power

My other thought was a E90 battery setup:
E90 is 1.5v 400 mah each the 4 of those would be 12v 1600 mah the holder measures 1.45x1.08x1.08


Any other input is greatly appreciated as I'm green the the ways of lightsaber building.

[snilam]

First of all my heart goes out to that child and his family. Any little joy you can bring him at this time priceless. I have a 3 yr old son and could not even imagine the hardship.

could you use 4 AA with the holder in the store, it would make swapping batteries on the fly a lot more convienient. Also I would use the show blade instead of the battle blade. it will be brighter and lighter. They are plenty strong. Only need the battle blade if you are full force contact dueling.

[31bravo]

My concern was fitting inside such a small space. We will be doing to battle blade because he plans on fighting with it (with assistance).

[Silver Serpent]

Don't let the name fool you. The show blades are still tremendously durable. The battle blades are significantly heavier, and may give him trouble. My wife and I do full force sparring with the thin-walled blades and they still show no damage (other than a few scuff marks) after 3 years.

I'm not sure what batteries you're looking at, but a 12v pack is more than you'll need. I would switch the BuckPuck to the 1000mA version, and use a 7.4v li-ion pack. Or you could use a 3.7v li-ion pack and a resistor, and it'll take up less room in your hilt.

[Ty_Bomber]

Right. You could also opt for a mhs v2 since it has smaller diameter parts. You can easily fit a single 18500 or 18650 battery in there with a recharge port on a stunt setup.

[31bravo]

So you guys think the 4 pack of AA batteries will fit fine since the switch will be located in the pommel?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I think your better alternative is to use 1 14500 Li-ion battery (AA sized) which is 3.7V and a resistor. You can use a 2AA holder and use one dummy cell. You can always feet extras handily (though I doubt you would constantly fight for more than 30 minute at time). THAT would likely be your best bet.

[Gnar-Gnar Gin]

I would definitely recommend the MHS v2 for a one handed saber, especially for a child...

I'm sorry to hear the story, It's not a easy situation to deal with...

I use MHS v2 for my sabers, and can fit a 18650 3400mAh battery and a nano biscotti in a 5 inch section of MHS v2, so you could easily make a stunt work,

or you could do a 6-7 inch v2 main body with v2 pommel and v2 emitter and get a full saber with sound for the little guy...

[31bravo]

What's wrong with a single AA battery holder and the 14500? Knowing this kid he would want to have it on for a long time like 1-2 hours at a time. But I think just keeping extra batteries around would be a better option.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

A single 14500 holder would be good, if you have one. If you use a 14500 (which is AA sized) depending on how you run the LED, you may only get an hour of runtime.

[31bravo]

And the resistor would be a 1.4watt 1 ohm resistor using the 1000ma buckpuck right? Or am I doing the calculation wrong

[Gnar-Gnar Gin]

And the resistor would be a 1.4watt 1 ohm resistor using the 1000ma buckpuck right? Or am I doing the calculation wrong

A resistor is not needed with a buck puck,

A 3.7v battery from the shop needs a resistor as it is not powerful enough to power the buck puck...
a 7.4v battery can use either option, but doesn't need to use a resistor

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You wouldn't need the buck puck. The resistor would be .47 Ohm .5W IF we are still talking about a blue blade.

[31bravo]

Ah ok great. Thanks guys looks like.i just need to.place an order now

[31bravo]

Well some electronic parts have started to come in and we might be making a few changes. We might try and do a fully functioning I guess you call it a shoto with a NB V2 and a single 18500 with the bass speaker. However looking at the manuals and others diagrams I'm a bit confused does the led need a resistor when using a NB? Some Diagrams have one and some do not. Though on the manual it shows a 3 ohm 5 watt resistor.

I have yet to order any body parts as of yet just a 9v, inline switch, buck Puck and the single led rebel for testing/ measuring.

[Gnar-Gnar Gin]

For simplicity's sake, use a resistor... you can look up the drive parameter, but life is a lot easier if you just resist the LED

[Silver Serpent]

Don't use a 9v battery. While they have plenty of voltage, they don't put out enough current to run a high-powered LED. At best, you'll have 5-15 minutes of a dim blade.

Use li-ions or AA sized alkaline batteries instead.

[31bravo]

The 9v is just for testing while I get the rest of the parts in it will not be the final product. I will be using a 18500 for final assembly.

[Gnar-Gnar Gin]

the problem is you need a dif resistor for the 9v vs. the 18500 if memory serves me correctly...

[31bravo]

I'll be using a buck Puck for testing since I will be using it in a second build anyways.

[Silver Serpent]

Well, keep your fingers crossed that the 9v battery can put out enough current to run the BuckPuck.

[31bravo]

Yeah we will see so question for the holders on the NB and 18500 in an extension piece will I need the 1.25 or the 1.15? For this style http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4-Fluted-double-female-threaded-connector-P403.aspx

[Silver Serpent]

That piece has the standard ID of 1.25".

[TwinMill]

I didn't see anything about guarded switch hole service mentioned in your first post, but if you're still using a 4" extension
as the main body of your lil guy's saber, you probably want to add it since it isn't a standard hilt.

then again, maybe that was already part of your plan, which would render this comment moot.
I'm sure he's gonna love the saber cuz you're doing it from the heart.

[31bravo]

Well since I'm going to be using sound I will be using a tactile switch with a single holder and drilling my own hole.

[setelf3of5]

I am glad to see sabers being built for more than just because: I want another one, or I have to finish my collection. I am sure this will be an amazing saber for him, and TwinMill said it right: I'm sure he's gonna love the saber cuz you're doing it from the heart.