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View Full Version : Video: Drill and tap your blade retention screw



Madcow
09-12-2014, 07:50 PM
Some helpful tips on where to place your blade retention screw, and how to do it yourself.

http://youtu.be/nGqiw4dorDs

Obi1
09-13-2014, 12:07 PM
I recall this was one of your Shop Secrets Video, I found them amazingly helpful, thanks so much!!! Especially the one about making a shroud from a sink tube! Keep doing such tutorials, I for one am always keen on learning from the true masters!

ShogunLogan
09-15-2014, 04:41 AM
i was getting ready to do this to one of my sabers and was looking for how to's on tapping screws the other day! thank you.

MrCafe
09-15-2014, 04:10 PM
Thank you for sharing this. Helps out on future projects.

Thorgal Pain
11-29-2015, 06:40 AM
Why is everyone using a screw to fastened the blade, why not use another method? Am i missing something? Doesn't piercing the blade weaken it?
Sorry for the somewhat bad english, im french but i try.

darth_chasm
11-29-2015, 07:12 AM
Why is everyone using a screw to fastened the blade, why not use another method? Am i missing something? Doesn't piercing the blade weaken it?
Sorry for the somewhat bad english, im french but i try.

The screw does not go into the blade. It presses against one side of of it creating a pressure fit.

Thorgal Pain
11-29-2015, 07:19 AM
So theres no reason preventing me to use another method, good to know.
Thank you.

darth_chasm
11-29-2015, 07:26 AM
I believe a lot of methods have been discussed or tried, but the retention screw proves to be the most feasible/economical solution. Good luck with your experimentation and be safe. It would not be good to have a blade flying out and hitting someone or something.

Thorgal Pain
11-29-2015, 08:10 AM
The goal is to have no screws if possible, to have everythi ng thightened by hand.
And no worries, security is a concern.

Silver Serpent
11-29-2015, 02:34 PM
You can use a thumbscrew if you don't want to need a tool when you remove the blade.

OR you can use a set screw if you don't want a visible screw holding the blade in place, but you'll need a small tool to tighten it.

If you'd like to experiment and find a different solution, go for it. The blade retention screw is not the only way to hold a blade in place, but it is the simplest and most economical method to do so, and it holds blades very well.

Thorgal Pain
11-29-2015, 04:00 PM
Well im gonna try a different approach, im a machinist and i have access to a milling and cnc machinery. I was thinking of machining a flexible collar. ( hoping google translate was right on the flex collar ;) )
At this point my biggest set back on almost everything are measurements, inner hilt, parts, LEDs and so on, im finding very usefull info on this forum, just gotta keep searching for it.

** I meant a tapping collet, stupid google **

rlobrecht
11-30-2015, 09:54 AM
stupid google **

Your English is better than my French. Using a collet to retain the blade looks really interesting. Good luck.

Quixotic Jedi
12-01-2015, 10:13 AM
Interesting concept of using a collet like clamping system for holding the blade in place. My biggest concern would be if the aluminium would be strong enough so that you could tighten the blade retention without stripping the threads. It would make a super clean emitter though.

Thorgal Pain
12-01-2015, 02:52 PM
I already used that concept made of aluminum and if you choose the right tread it will be strong enough even more if you get the pieces annodized. Let me check my machinery handbook and i will pass the info.

Jay-gon Jinn
12-01-2015, 10:05 PM
Interesting concept of using a collet like clamping system for holding the blade in place. My biggest concern would be if the aluminium would be strong enough so that you could tighten the blade retention without stripping the threads. It would make a super clean emitter though.It's actually been done before, about ten years ago and it worked just fine...but those particular sabers used 3/4" blades so it was much easier to add the extra material to the collets. I'm sure it has been done since as well, with 1" blades, but I can't recall who it was that had done it.

Thorgal Pain
12-02-2015, 02:29 PM
If you are planing on geting the pieces (hilt) anodized, a regular tread will do but, if not then i would go for an ACME tread, it is thicker ans sturdier than the regular tread but harder to engage the male and female treads togeter.
Cant tell you which to use since i dont know the OD of the male part. Hope this helps.
I forgot to mention that if you decide to get pieces anodized you should check with the company that will do it for type and thickness to adjust your treading accordingly.