Wring problems and learning experiences

[oswaldkefo]

Hello!

So I completed my first saber last Thursday with parts from TCSS and their incredibly helpful YouTube video on assembly. It was the most basic saber, 4AAA batteries, standard latching switch, a resistor I picked up at Radioshack, and one Amber all-in-one LED from the site (so great).

Shortly thereafter the body of my first saber got damaged so I was going to put the guts in a new build but I wanted to change out the switch and battery pack but keep the all-in-one LED. This is where my problem is.
I can get the switch LED to light up but when I connect the main LED it does not light up. Now, I know I am doing something wrong, but I dont know what. I checked other posts but those had different configurations (sound, buckpuck (i dont even know that is), etc) so I wasnt sure which wires applied to me and which didn't.

If you guys could help me I would greatly appreciate it :)


Pictures!
http://i.imgur.com/qq1pS31.jpg
my wiring for this lightsaber

http://i.imgur.com/X8WwXf2.jpg
this was my first build just showing the LED is still working

PS I know I did a Frankenstein job with the wires, sorry.

[Martyn]

Just to confirm :) Is that a dynaohm on the main LED? If so then it limits the current to around 20mA (way below what your main LED needs) and is intended for accent LEDs like the one in the switch.

[Sevinzol]

I can't tell by the photos but I'm guessing you're switch is wired up wrong.
I did notice what looks like a break in the insulation between the switch and the blade LED on the red lead.
Check stuff for continuity. Check that the main LED isn't fried.
get a better pic of the wiring on the switch

[Silver Serpent]

That is definitely wired incorrectly. You have what appears to be a DynaOhm on your main POS+ line from the battery, which is limiting ALL your current to just 20ma. You also have another DynaOhm on your main LED. The amber Rebel LEDs take 700mA.

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a464/Eremith/Sabers/th_medicineman01.jpg (http://s1038.photobucket.com/user/Eremith/media/Sabers/medicineman01.jpg.html)

It's an old diagram, but it'll work. The orange dot is the resistor for your switch LED (DynaOhm goes here). Negative from battery goes to C1 on your switch, and the NO1 terminal on your switch connects to the LED- terminal on your switch AND goes to the main LED. You can use a resistor or a 700mA BuckPuck for your main LED.

[oswaldkefo]

it certainly is. I will change that out thank you!

[oswaldkefo]

That is definitely wired incorrectly. You have what appears to be a DynaOhm on your main POS+ line from the battery, which is limiting ALL your current to just 20ma. You also have another DynaOhm on your main LED. The amber Rebel LEDs take 700mA.

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a464/Eremith/Sabers/th_medicineman01.jpg (http://s1038.photobucket.com/user/Eremith/media/Sabers/medicineman01.jpg.html)

It's an old diagram, but it'll work. The orange dot is the resistor for your switch LED (DynaOhm goes here). Negative from battery goes to C1 on your switch, and the NO1 terminal on your switch connects to the LED- terminal on your switch AND goes to the main LED. You can use a resistor or a 700mA BuckPuck for your main LED.



So if I use a resistor (minimum of 700VA) instead of a buckpack, the Negative wire would go switch-resistor-negative terminal on the main LED and the postive wire would go directly from the battery to the main LED?

[Silver Serpent]

You are correct about resistor placement. It could also go on the positive line between the main LED and the battery. Either one or the other will work. Don't try to do both. :)

The bit where you said "minimum of 700VA" doesn't make any sense for a resistor. Resistors are measured in ohms and watts. There is a resistor calculator in my signature that will give you an appropriate value to use on your main LED. Rebel Ambers run at 3.2v and 700mA. If you're using a 4x alkaline battery pack, your source voltage is 6v.

Another thing to keep in mind: recommended wattages are a minimum. You can always use a higher wattage resistor than what is recommended, and it won't hurt anything. Don't go overboard, since higher wattage resistors take up a lot more room in your hilt.

[oswaldkefo]

That was exactly what I needed! I just finished the wiring and it works like a charm! Thank you for that diagram and your patience!

Pictures for those interested
http://i.imgur.com/qkTaCyG.jpg - saber off
http://i.imgur.com/GuNp8cc.jpg - saber on
http://i.imgur.com/xf6bIzX.jpg - saber on with blade (just at that beautiful color!)
http://i.imgur.com/nJi1g4p.jpg - my first saber posted just for fun


I really like the simple, clean look for the hilt plus dat amber just looks amazing!!

Thank you for all your help guys (especially Silver Serpent) I could not have done it without you! Now I am going to start a third saber with a rechargeable battery and accent LEDs so I am sure I will be back at some point!

[Silver Serpent]

Clean and simple. Good job! It's always a good feeling when you fire up a saber for the first time.

When you're comfortable with your soldering skills, consider building one with sound.

[oswaldkefo]

hey sorry to bug you but i have a follow up question. It worked great for a couple days but then I turned it on and it stayed on. Switch and main LED even though the switch was in the off position. I had not messed with the wiring since I put it together so I dont know why it is doing this.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You either have a short somewhere, or something in your wiring came loose.

[oswaldkefo]

sooo i just took it apart, desoldered everything, and then put it back and it still is constantly lit up. Can anyone narrow down where the problem could be? I would assume it be the switch but, like I said, I took all of that apart and then soldered it back

[Silver Serpent]

Check the switch contacts with a multimeter. Occasionally a dud switch gets through the manufacturer, and they can break in either the "Always On" or "Always Off" position. It's not common, but it can happen.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

We would also need good close up pictures of your wiring to help look things over for you.

[oswaldkefo]

I just ordered a buck puck, to see if that might help simplify things for me. I will try and upload pictures of the wiring once I receive it and hook it up.

I really appreciate all the kind support from all you guys! It's really rare, and pleasant to find a helpful community which does not rail on newbies.

[oswaldkefo]

Good news! Got my parts and put it together and now it works! Thank you guys so much for your help.