Wiring and Parts check

[setelf3of5]

Thank you all for taking a look. Having this all checked after all my study is greatly appreciated.

Meet the 'Redeemer'

Wiring Diagram:

10418


Parts list:
Hilt style #3
Pommel style #10
Choke style #1
Blade holder Style #15

Internals: (Wiring and solder obviously)

PC V3
Power Xtender 2.0
Li - ion 3.7 2600 18650
Kill plug style #3
2.1 mm Recharge Port
3.1 R.I.C.E. Port Style #2
Vibration motor
luxeon Tri-Rebel (Royal Bl, Royal Bl, White)
Luxeon 18deg Tri-Rebel Star Lens
Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
1.25" Sink tube LED/Blade holder
Luxeon star thermal tape
MWS Long Latching 16mm AV switch (Bl Ring)
MWS Short Momentary AV Switch (Bl Dot)
5 jst quick disconnects
Machined Button for Cover-tech clip
1" thick walled PolyC 40" long (Blade)
Bullet shaped tip for blade
8/32 X 1/4" socked Head screw for Blade holder
MHS Speaker mount V4
Premium 28mm speaker
MPS Clip
MPS V2 pommel insert style #1
Tall Bezel for illuminated switch
Super lube synthetic grease
aluminum 3/16 tube
stainless steel 4/40 all thread
stainless steel 4/40 hex nut
Acrylic chassis disk for PC & 18500/18650 pk S2
Acrylic chassis disk for NB 18500/18650 pk S3 (for Power Xtender)
Chassis Disk Style 1
USB to 3.5mm R.I.C.E.
3.7mm Li - ion Charger

Again Thanks to everyone who looks and comments any and all advice is MUCH appreciated. My next goal is ordering parts.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

you do not need a power extender with the PC 3.0. The manual will show you how to wire it on page 28 for a simple FoC set up. You also have two resistors on the main led's which you have wired together in series, which you do not do, and don't need in the first place. The Petit Crouton has a built-in driver that will control the current for the led's without the need for resistors. The current is adjustable via R.I.C.E. or on the SD card. Also, where the manual says to bridge the pads for the on board power extenders, it does not mean you bridge them together like you have drawn. You only bridge the pads together for each power extender separately, and then you use the appropriate resistor in-line to the white FoC die on the Rebel.

The switch led you have wired to the FoC1 pad isn't going to work, either. That needs to be wired to one of the accent led pads, like the secondary switch is in your diagram.

Unless you plan to remove the power regulator from the board, in the 3.7volt hack as described on page 33 in the manual, you are going to need a 7.4volt battery pack to power it.

[setelf3of5]

you do not need a power extender with the PC 3.0. The manual will show you how to wire it on page 28 for a simple FoC set up. You also have two resistors on the main led's which you have wired together in series, which you do not do, and don't need in the first place. The Petit Crouton has a built-in driver that will control the current for the led's without the need for resistors. The current is adjustable via R.I.C.E. or on the SD card.

(( I will make these changes.))

Also, where the manual says to bridge the pads for the on board power extenders, it does not mean you bridge them together like you have drawn. You only bridge the pads together for each power extender separately, and then you use the appropriate resistor in-line to the white FoC die on the Rebel.

((Only the pads are bridged....they are not bridged together its only "labeled" to describe the pads are bridged...I can remove the lines.

The switch led you have wired to the FoC1 pad isn't going to work, either. That needs to be wired to one of the accent led pads, like the secondary switch is in your diagram.

((Ok I will make this change))

Unless you plan to remove the power regulator from the board, in the 3.7volt hack as described on page 33 in the manual, you are going to need a 7.4volt battery pack to power it.


I will make a change to the 7.4 battery pack...the online resistor wizard was telling me that it needed the 3.7 volt...but I originally wired for 7.4

I will do a new diagram and re post...thank you Jay-gon Jinn!