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Yorginsnarff
09-07-2014, 04:25 PM
Hello, Forums! I have followed advice and have taken notes. I now ask that one of you experienced saber builders tell me if my wiring diagram will work.
NOTES BEFORE HAND: I AM A LEFTY! I'M SORRY IF THE DRAWING IS BAD!
NOTES BEFORE HAND: I AM NOT USING THE FoC BOARD! THAT IS WHY NOTHING IS CONNECTED TO THE ORANGE WIRE!
Parts List:
1. Nano Biscotte V2: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V2-P806.aspx
2. Nano Biscotte V2 Wiring Harness: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/NB-V2-MWS-Header-and-Wiring-Harness-P961.aspx
3. LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx (CYAN/BLUE)
4. Battery: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Li-Ion-18650-37V-2600mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-Module-P672.aspx
5. Recharge Port: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Recharge-Port-P877.aspx
6. Switch: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Blue-Ring-Switch-P921.aspx
7. Switch Resistor: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/20mA-DynaOhm-Variable-Resistor-P847.aspx
8. Speaker: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-28mm-Speaker-P77.aspx
9. LED resistor: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1ohm-2w-resistor-P21.aspx
10. Kill key/switch/plug: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Kill-plug-style-2-P570.aspx
11. JST Connecter(s)
For LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JST-Male-connector-24AWG-BlueWhite-P957.aspx
For Recharge Port/Battery: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JST-Male-connector-24AWG-RedBlack-P963.aspx
AND http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JST-Female-connector-24AWG-RedBlack-P964.aspx
For Switch: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JST-Male-connector-26AWG-Yellow-P951.aspx
For Speaker: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JST-Female-connector-26AWG-Green-P956.aspx
AND A WHOLE BUNCH OF HEAT 10414SHRINK!
I have attached a picture with the items drawn to my liking. Please tell me if it is correct and if it will work. A legend IS included so you can tell just what the heck you're looking at XD.
(Please tell me if the image didn't upload)

ALSO: Does anyone know when the Nano Biscotte V2 will be restocked?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-07-2014, 04:45 PM
Well, the diagram looks OK. The only minor thing is you should use a .47 Ohm .5W resistor for your main LED. Other than that everything else seems to be in order.

You should strongly consider some type of chassis system to prevent everything from rattling around inside your hilt.

The NB should be back in a couple of weeks, they are being produced as we speak.

Yorginsnarff
09-07-2014, 05:32 PM
thank you very much! And yeah, I am going to put the electronics in a padded housing so everything is safe. I'm going to put a soft substance inside the hilt (probably those fake cobwebs that are sold in halloween stores) and shove those in, just so that when the saber comes into extreme battle, the electronics will be fine :D

Yorginsnarff
09-08-2014, 09:47 AM
would this suffice?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/47ohm-5w-resistor-P947.aspx
I'm very sure the answer is yes XP

Silver Serpent
09-08-2014, 10:27 AM
That is the correct resistor.

Yorginsnarff
09-16-2014, 10:14 AM
Quick question :D
Ok so the switch I'm looking at has 4 connections. For the yellow JST connector I'm using, do I only need the connections with the + and - labels?

Silver Serpent
09-16-2014, 10:26 AM
The (+) and (-) terminals on your switch are for the switch LED. The other two terminals are for the switch mechanism itself.

Yorginsnarff
09-16-2014, 10:39 AM
oh! Then may you please direct me in the right direction? How would I wire the switch for the LED to work AND the switch mechanism? WHILE USING THE WIRING HARNESS AND JST CONNECTERS! XP
Thanks :D
Which part goes to the Nano Biscotte V2?

Silver Serpent
09-16-2014, 11:38 AM
Well, that kinda depends on what you how you want the switch LED to operate. Three options are readily available.

1. Power indicator. The Switch LED turns on when you pull the kill key and remains on all the time. See page 12 of the NBv2 manual.

2. Power indicator that turns off during Deep Sleep. As above, except the LED turns off when the saber enters "Deep Sleep" mode, even if the kill key is not inserted. See page 13 of the NBv2 manual.

3. On/off with the blade. The switch LED turns on when the blade does, and turns back off when the blade is off. For this, just wire the switch LED in parallel with the main blade LED. You will need to splice the (+) of your switch LED to the White wire in the NBv2 harness, and the (-) to the Blue wire.

These options will require the use of a soldering iron. TCSS does not carry a y-splitter for the MWS system. You will also need an appropriate resistor for the switch LED. You have the DynaOhm in your parts list, and that will do the job just fine. For options 1 and 2, the source voltage is a 3.3v pad. In option 3, the source voltage will be the voltage of your battery pack.

Option 3 is what most people seem to choose, and it does not require you to do any precision soldering on the board itself.

Yorginsnarff
09-16-2014, 11:58 AM
Thank you very much! You have been very helpful!

Yorginsnarff
09-20-2014, 04:55 PM
Ok so quick question. The Rebel Star LED and Heatsink Module comes pre wired with a JST connector. The colors are red and black. If I am to use the NB V2 Wiring Harness, with a male connector, would it be ok if I connect the White wire from the Male JST connector to the Red wire? (After wiring resistor) I would then proceed to wire the Black wire to the Blue wire, correct? Or should I just buy a male Red/Black connector, and hook that up to the White/Blue wire on the Wiring Harness? Would that work better?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-20-2014, 08:46 PM
The colors of the wires don't really matter. What matters is that you know which part plus into which connection. ;) The color coding was implemented to help newer people out.

Yorginsnarff
09-21-2014, 09:30 AM
cool! Thanks! I'm not exactly new to circuitry, but starting a lightsaber project is bigger than I usually go. In areas I'm not perfectly familiar with, I like to get all of the details. But that is pretty much it! Once my saber is done, if I get the parts anytime soon, I'll be sure to post some pictures! And I've heard that I need to also watch my wallet... I'll keep a lookout ;)

Yorginsnarff
09-21-2014, 10:04 AM
ok so this is my switch wiring diagram. Will this make the switch perform it's function AND light up? I am using option 3 that you recommended. The yellow wires are connected to the JST leading to the NB V2 Wiring Harness. Legend, as always, is included.
10451

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-21-2014, 10:26 AM
Where's the rest of the diagram? The close up is nice, but I would also like to see the ret of it.

Yorginsnarff
09-21-2014, 11:28 AM
alrighty! I'll start working on it! Expect it within the hour ;)

Yorginsnarff
09-21-2014, 12:13 PM
ok I hope this is readable... I'll make a new one if it isn't ;).
10452

Yorginsnarff
09-22-2014, 10:15 AM
Ok labeled wiring schematic, as requested. This one may explain things in a slight bit better way ;)
alrighty, eagerly awaiting your response and advice. Thanks!10454

Silver Serpent
09-22-2014, 10:35 AM
You have the FoC and ACT pads reversed.

Assuming you wire the recharge port correctly, the rest of it looks fine to me. The recharge port has three terminals, a shared Positive, the Negative to the battery, and the switched Negative for the saber electronics.

Yorginsnarff
09-22-2014, 10:56 AM
Oh! I see what you mean!
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Recharge-Port-P877.aspx
This is the recharge port I am going to use. It seems that the three connections are already wired. The female connection goes to my battery, and the male connection to the board, right? The shared positive is already soldered, as with the two negatives ;)
Thanks for the advice!

Silver Serpent
09-22-2014, 12:01 PM
You're using the prewired recharge port? You'll be fine then. It'll already be wired up properly.

Yorginsnarff
09-22-2014, 12:40 PM
thank you very much! You and Forgetful Jedi Knight are both very helpful! :D

Yorginsnarff
09-23-2014, 11:44 AM
Ok so just to make sure, because I am very paranoid :3.
The saber sound will work, along with the Switch LED AND for the switch to perform it's function?
Lol thanks. Once I have this down, I'll be good :D
Thanks!

Silver Serpent
09-23-2014, 12:01 PM
Yep, looks good. Everything should work fine.

Be sure you remove the SD card while you are soldering, and put it back in with the kill key inserted into your recharge port.

Yorginsnarff
09-23-2014, 02:31 PM
thank you so much for the advice! :D

Yorginsnarff
09-28-2014, 10:43 AM
ok so quick question. Not really important to the saber, just a quick stock question. The Nano Biscotte V2 is a very popular sound board. Does Erv have to make double the amount of soundboards for the pre-wired and the regular NB V2? Or is it just first come first serve?
Also, when will they be re-stocked? It would also be a good idea to put an "In stock" bit so that customers can see how many are left in stock.
Thanks!

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-28-2014, 10:47 AM
They will be restocked when Tim gets them in. When they run out, they are "out of stock". There have been delays, because I believe there are some small improvements being made, which mean re-designing, new PCB's etc, etc. Patience is a virtue.

Yorginsnarff
09-28-2014, 10:49 AM
Thank you! Yes, I know about patience :P. Thank you for the quick response. :D

Yorginsnarff
09-29-2014, 03:29 PM
ok so I just realized something XD.
If I am to wire the switch with the LED's splicing off the white and blue wires, how would I heatshrink that? Can I slide a larger heat shrink OVER the JST connectors and do the soldering then?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-29-2014, 03:42 PM
You would slip one heat shrink over the (say 2) black wires, solder, and then move the heat shrink into place.

Yorginsnarff
09-30-2014, 03:21 PM
That would work with the spliced wires? I can't imagine slipping the heatshrink over a JST... would I just buy the adhesive heatshrink and cut it then shrink it? Keep in mind I'm working with a y-splice...
lol thanks ;)

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-30-2014, 04:25 PM
I know what you're working with you put the heat shrink on first (or after you cut the wires), splice and re-solder and then adjust the heat shrink in the right place and apply heat to shrink it.

Yorginsnarff
09-30-2014, 06:00 PM
oh! I see what you mean now!
Lel thanks X3

Yorginsnarff
10-01-2014, 02:00 PM
Hi! Would this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Blue-Ring-Switch-P717.aspx
fit inside the SECOND SWITCH option of this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-Style-5-7-Fluted-double-female-threaded-connector-P406.aspx
WITHOUT an activation box?
Thanks.

Yorginsnarff
10-01-2014, 02:04 PM
SORRY! I meant THIS SWITCH: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Blue-Ring-Switch-P921.aspx

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-01-2014, 02:06 PM
The NB doesn't use 2 switches.

Yorginsnarff
10-01-2014, 02:10 PM
sorry. My wording was bad. I was asking (simply XP) if this switch here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Blue-Ring-Switch-P921.aspx
would fit in this hilt: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-Style-5-7-Fluted-double-female-threaded-connector-P406.aspx
which option would I use?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-01-2014, 02:29 PM
sorry. My wording was bad. I was asking (simply XP) if this switch here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Blue-Ring-Switch-P921.aspx
would fit in this hilt: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-Style-5-7-Fluted-double-female-threaded-connector-P406.aspx
which option would I use?

Yes, but you would need to tell/have Tim drill the 12mm recessed AV hole for you instead of the 16mm AV hole. I am guessing the price would be the same, but you need to check with Tim.

Yorginsnarff
10-01-2014, 06:21 PM
ok, thank you :D

Yorginsnarff
10-02-2014, 10:53 AM
ok so instead of using a DynaOhm for the switch, can I just use a 39 Ohm 1/8 watt resistor? If not, what resistor would be correct?
Thanks

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-02-2014, 10:56 AM
ok so instead of using a DynaOhm for the switch, can I just use a 39 Ohm 1/8 watt resistor? If not, what resistor would be correct?
Thanks

Allow me to introduce you to Ohm's Law:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17109-Tutorial-FJK-s-quot-Down-and-Dirty-quot-guide-to-Ohm-s-Law

Yorginsnarff
10-02-2014, 10:57 AM
Thank you :D

Yorginsnarff
10-02-2014, 02:48 PM
ok so a 36 ohm, 1 watt resistor, then?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-02-2014, 03:05 PM
ok so a 36 ohm, 1 watt resistor, then?

You sound like you are guessing.

Yorginsnarff
10-02-2014, 03:06 PM
nope. Did the calculation. I say the question mark mainly because TCSS doesn't have it. So I'm probably just going to buy it at Radio Shack if the DynaOhms aren't back in stock in time ;)

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-02-2014, 03:09 PM
nope. Did the calculation. I say the question mark mainly because TCSS doesn't have it. So I'm probably just going to buy it at Radio Shack if the DynaOhms aren't back in stock in time ;)

What did you use for the values, because you should have come up with something like 18 Ohm, 1/4 W (which is in the store).

Yorginsnarff
10-02-2014, 03:14 PM
I used 3.7 for the source voltage, 3.0 volts for the forward voltage, and 20 mA for the current. I guess I messed up along the way XD

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-02-2014, 03:21 PM
If you are only going to go with 3.0V for the Blue, it's 39 Ohm, 1/4W. Blues usually have a higher Vf than 3.0 BUT you should work with that number.

Yorginsnarff
10-02-2014, 03:26 PM
so basically, just get the 18 ohm 1/4 watt? Sorry if I'm being a bit stupid... just really tired, lol XP

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-02-2014, 03:28 PM
No, get the 39 Ohm 1/4 W and come back when you're more awake. ;)

Yorginsnarff
10-02-2014, 04:59 PM
ok lol. Thanks. Your patience is impressive XD
Also... 50th post! :D

Yorginsnarff
10-03-2014, 11:42 AM
Ok, so I think I found the correct resistor. Ugh... I don't want 500 of them though. Is this the correct one? I'm not really good with resistors right now. I'll definitely read up on them more later to not annoy you guys XD

http://www.ebay.com/itm/39-ohm-1-4-watt-carbon-film-resistor-5-tolerance-5-pcs-/231343845148?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35dd2aef1c

Silver Serpent
10-03-2014, 12:33 PM
Those look like the right resistors.

In the future, if you're having bad luck with math and miscalculations, you can always use an online resistor calculator. I have one in my signature for just such occasions. It will round up to the next standard resistor value.

Knowing Ohm's Law is certainly helpful though. Especially when you're away from a computer or the internet is down.

Yorginsnarff
10-03-2014, 01:47 PM
Thank you very much! Now to wait for the NB V2 Pre Wired to get back in stock. (need the pre-wired b/c my soldering iron is too big to do the smaller connections. Can't buy another b/c of my budget...)

Yorginsnarff
10-10-2014, 02:33 PM
ok so I have a lot of my parts, but I need a chassis now...
will these discs: www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-NB-and-1850018650-pack-S3-P813.aspx
work with the pre-wired Nano Biscotte V2? (seeing as it has the wiring harness, which makes one end more bulky...)

Silver Serpent
10-10-2014, 02:42 PM
Not without modifications. You can make them work with a set of needle files and a little patience. Or just slide them both on from the non-header side, and it might work that way.

Yorginsnarff
10-10-2014, 02:49 PM
ah I see! Thank you very much!

Yorginsnarff
10-11-2014, 06:23 PM
Ok so I was re-looking everything... and I have a question that may already be answered, I just need to check.
The rebel star and heat-sink module: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx
has this LED: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.aspx
correct?
If so, wouldn't the resistor be a 1 ohm, 2 watt resistor, instead of a .47 ohm, .5 watt resistor as mentioned earlier?
I used this website: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
I am using the Royal Blue, thus it has to be run at 1000 mA... I checked the LED, and it said that I had to run it at 3.2 volts max.
Am I correct to use a 1 ohm, 2 watt resistor? (Values: Source Voltage: 3.7 Volts, Forward Voltage: 3.2 Volts, mA: 1000 mA)

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-11-2014, 06:28 PM
Online calculators tend to be overly cautious. If you do the math yourself, you'll find that the .47 Ohm 1/2W will be fine. Also the Blues can be run at 3.3V. There is a reason why the store carries certain resistors, and that's because certain people "did the math" themselves and recommended what resistors should be carried for common setups (like yours). ;)

Yorginsnarff
10-11-2014, 06:40 PM
thank you very much! :D

Yorginsnarff
10-12-2014, 08:08 AM
okay, so I found this resistor on radio shack... I think it's the right one (MAIN LED .47 OHM, 1/2 WATT RESISTOR): http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12550748
This is the right one, yes?
Like I said... I'm overly cautious on my first saber :P

Silver Serpent
10-12-2014, 11:20 AM
That one will work.

The online calculator in my signature has a tendency to always round up, for safety. Doing the math yourself can get a little better results.

Yorginsnarff
10-12-2014, 12:25 PM
Thanks! :D

Yorginsnarff
10-12-2014, 03:11 PM
Do you know how long the flutes are on this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-Style-5-7-Fluted-double-female-threaded-connector-P406.aspx
and also how long the (male) threaded bit on this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-choke-style-1-short-P317.aspx
is? Thanks...
I can't figure them out and I'm drawing schematics...

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-12-2014, 03:35 PM
The flutes are approx. 3 1/4" long and the threaded end is .4"

Yorginsnarff
10-12-2014, 03:40 PM
thanks! Last question regarding the handle and choke: the flutes and the end (Pommel end) have a gap. How big (inches, please) is that gap?
thanks!

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-12-2014, 03:47 PM
It's a little over 1/2" the half inch is where the other threaded part would go - so don't make plans to include that "space" in anything.

Yorginsnarff
10-12-2014, 03:54 PM
thanks! :D

Yorginsnarff
10-13-2014, 12:10 PM
Alrighty... I was at Radio Shack today and I saw a .47 ohm, 5 watt resistor. My question: Would this work? Does wattage matter? Because I need a .47 ohm 1/2 Watt resistor, but would a .47 ohm, 5 watt work?
Thanks

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-13-2014, 03:32 PM
Alrighty... I was at Radio Shack today and I saw a .47 ohm, 5 watt resistor. My question: Would this work? Does wattage matter? Because I need a .47 ohm 1/2 Watt resistor, but would a .47 ohm, 5 watt work?
Thanks

A 5W will work (you can always go up, but not down), however it is a bigger physical resistor.

Yorginsnarff
10-13-2014, 03:41 PM
thank you so much!

Yorginsnarff
10-13-2014, 05:03 PM
Does the tolerance matter? I found this one:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062289

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-13-2014, 05:14 PM
Does the tolerance matter? I found this one:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062289

Just get a pack of these and call it a day: http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=13384949&kw=.68%20ohm%201/2w&origkw=.68+ohm+1%2F2W&sr=1

Yorginsnarff
10-13-2014, 05:54 PM
I would... but I can't pay for shipping... it's 7 dollars, excluding tax...
I'm looking for something that I can just walk in and buy :/
would that other resistor I listed work still?
lol sorry if I'm bugging you

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-13-2014, 06:04 PM
Technically, they probably would, though it is wire wound, and not carbon film. Just walk into the store and try to find something that is 1/2W and preferably under 1 Ohm, and you should be good.

Yorginsnarff
10-13-2014, 06:11 PM
lol ok

Yorginsnarff
10-14-2014, 12:14 PM
OK LAST TIME ABOUT RESISTORS AND I'LL BE DONE WITH IT I PROMISE!
I'm going to Cables and Connecters soon, and I finally found my resistor! :D
(Look at Picture) PLEASE TELL ME THIS IS RIGHT! (I'm a little out of it today XD)
10537

AAAND you can't see that...
it says: ".47 Ohm 1/2 watt Metal Film (FlameProof) Resistors (2pk)" lol
Thanks for all the help and patience to all who helped me on this matter XD

Silver Serpent
10-14-2014, 12:27 PM
Sounds right to me.

Yorginsnarff
10-16-2014, 12:21 PM
Hi! This blade is just a standard, put it in your blade holder, right: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-TCSS-style-Battle-blade-1-OD--P155.aspx
I don't need an LED string blade... I just need to know if this is the type you just shove in your blade holder and hold it in w/ a blade retention screw. Thanks!

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-16-2014, 12:25 PM
Hi! This blade is just a standard, put it in your blade holder, right: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-TCSS-style-Battle-blade-1-OD--P155.aspx
I don't need an LED string blade... I just need to know if this is the type you just shove in your blade holder and hold it in w/ a blade retention screw. Thanks!

That is correct.

Yorginsnarff
10-16-2014, 12:28 PM
thanks :)

Yorginsnarff
10-16-2014, 03:37 PM
Does anyone know how long exactly it takes to charge one of these: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Li-Ion-18650-37V-2600mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-Module-P672.aspx
Thanks!

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-16-2014, 03:48 PM
Does anyone know how long exactly it takes to charge one of these: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Li-Ion-18650-37V-2600mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-Module-P672.aspx
Thanks!

Not exactly. They take a long time maybe an hour or two.

Yorginsnarff
10-16-2014, 04:34 PM
Thanks again! :D

Yorginsnarff
10-16-2014, 05:40 PM
... ok so I was testing out the Rebel Star (BEAUTIFUL!) and my speaker magnetized to my battery?!
are they both fried?

the back of the speaker touched the back of the battery... the wires weren't touching.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
10-16-2014, 05:42 PM
No, they should be ok. Keep them separated.

Yorginsnarff
10-16-2014, 05:43 PM
whew! Thanks so much! And I'll be sure to do that! Thanks again! :D

Yorginsnarff
10-28-2014, 08:37 AM
ok, so I got my Nano Biscotte yesterday, and the swings kind of break every so often and the sound sometimes cuts out... I'll post a video later. I did some tinkering with the sd card, but I don't know what went wrong. The clashes are fine, it's just the swings :/

Yorginsnarff
10-28-2014, 11:35 AM
Nevermind i fixed it! :)

DarthFender
10-29-2014, 06:43 AM
Would you mind posting what you did to correct the issue, it may help future builders. Thanks.

Yorginsnarff
10-29-2014, 11:35 AM
sure.
1. Download default NB V2 SD card setup from Plecter Labs
2. Make sure you unzip it and have it on your desktop.
3. After you're sure you have it, delete the files on the SD card
4. Drag the files from the download into the blank SD card
5. Put the SD Card Back in and you're done!

This worked for me... be sure to back up your SD card :)

Hope this helped :D

Link: http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/article_info.php?articles_id=107
The thing you have to click is:
► Original archive - Nano Biscotte 2.x - Light Meat + Dark Meat + Configuration File)

Yorginsnarff
11-04-2014, 09:32 AM
okay! I'm back with a few questions!
so my wiring works and I'm very pleased with it! Thanks for all of the helpful advice to y'all!
So I have designed a chassis based on previous advice.
The picture is attached. Please tell me if ANY ideas are better. I am just throwing ideas around ;3

Here's the plan:
10595

Here's my parts list:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-NB-and-1850018650-pack-S3-P813.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Stainless-4-40-all-thread-P770.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2-Aluminum-316-OD-spacer-P785.aspx

Silver Serpent
11-04-2014, 11:24 AM
That's the typical way to build a chassis with the parts here in the store. Don't forget the 4-40 hex nuts to hold everything together.

Depending on how far you slide the chassis discs, you may need to modify the one nearest the wiring harness. The harness won't fit through the slot without modifying the chassis disc.

Yorginsnarff
11-04-2014, 11:52 AM
Thanks! I was only planning to slide the second chassis up to the harness, not slide over it ;)
Thanks for the missing part, too!