Will 23mm quad rebel and optic work with tcss parts?

[snilam]

Just curious if the 23mm quad rebels and optics will work with the tcss blade holders/heatsinks? I'm sure there is a reason why I don't see them being used so I was just wondering what was that reason. I'm sure there are wiring issues as well since most boards are set up for 3 channels. Also are there available current issues since say for instance the PC 3.0 has 2.5A and say a quad blue would probably goes past this? But then again LEDengin has 4 dies. Anyway if anyone could shed some light that would be awesome.

[Silver Serpent]

They work just fine. I think you have to sand the optics a bit so they fit, and modify the heatsink first, but the quad Rebels work fine in MHS. They're just not sold at TCSS (yet) so we don't discuss them a whole lot.

[snilam]

OIC. Im still going to use a tri. I was just curious more than anything

[Silver Serpent]

If you can wire up a Tri-Rebel, you'd be able to wire up a Quad. It's just a few extra calculations for figuring out current and voltages, and making it all work with your battery pack.

Tri-Rebels are plenty bright for most people, and with the RGB Tri-Rebels, the PC 3.0, and the Color Xtenders, the typical sabersmith rarely needs a 4th LED die.

...then again, sometimes you want the brightest, battery hogging-est saber you can build. :)

[snilam]

I was just pondering if having 2 royal blues and a single deep red would make a nice purple and 4th for a green or white for your foc. But I dont know know if the extra cost of shipping from getting straight from phillips would be worth it. So I think I would just wait for tim to get rBGB tri's back in.

[Johannes Huber]

Actually, the 23mm lens will fit right into the MHS lens holder (the 25mm is the one that needs sanding...)and the quad will fit into the heatsink quite nicely. If you look at my first build "Velocity", I used the combination of quad reb and 23mm lens for that and it went together very easily.You can also check out FenderBender's LEDEngine soldering tutorial and you'll find you can do the same setup with a quad reb allowing for a "seriallel" set up to save power if you use a 7.4V lithion setup. In experimenting with both the quads and the tris, I found it gets even easier to solder them if you heat them up on something like a Mr. Coffee mug heater first. If you want to set up a seriallel layout for the quad (one could do it with 2 of the dies on a tri as well...), just let me know and I'll send you a photo of how I did it if you want. I should mention that there is an oddity about the brightness of the quad vs. the tri in my personal experience (others may have had other experiences...): The amount of "perceived brightness" between the two doesn't seem that great to me unless one gets into overdriving, that's where the cool colored quads can get ridiculously bright at around 1500 mA (I fully lit up 2 large rooms next to each other, but I would wear eye protection for this if you are fooling with the "naked" LEDs). The larger current does, however, decrease lifespan (although I haven't run into it yet) and up the heat produced so one needs to think through how one handles the heatsink so it will disperse enough of the heat... Also, one can't apparently overdrive amber of red rebs without cooking them.... good luck either way!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Johannes brings up a point I have been making for years. "More" isn't always "Brighter" or "Better". I know it's a hard concept for many to wrap their heads around, but it's so true.

[snilam]

FJK that makes sense. I also figure the "brighter" the less color saturation also. So thats also a concern to me.

johannes thanks for the info very generous of you. If I do decide to go quad I will definately hit you up. I think im still just leaning toward regular tri since the benefit is little to none from what im gathering.:D