AAAAAAHHHHH! THEY WORKED!!! *ahem* I mean...thanks. =)

[Kagetora]

So, with all the overtime I have been working lately, it took forever to get my first hilts together. But I finally managed it, and...they worked. I almost wept. :D

First, an enormous, ridiculously humble THANK YOU to Forgetful Jedi Knight, Silver Serpent, and Jay-gon Jinn. Your patience with my parts list and wiring diagrams bordered on the saintly. I know how tough it is with new people...part of my job is training apprentices. I can't really say thanks enough.

Also, thanks to Tim for his patience with my e-mails, and also for being a superb machinist. Everything fit together like it was...well...made to. Really quality workmanship. Top shelf.

So...I started with this:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3921/14430962844_96c8cef6de_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nZdsud)

Well, more than that, actually, as you'll see later.

The first part was to actually get the hilts together, as I didn't want to be drilling, tapping, using oil, etc. with a bunch of electronics and wires in the way. I started by cutting the brass parts.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/14408960126_56c5f4f100_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nXgFR1)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3871/14428732091_b60e98a92b_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nZ22mX)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3850/14430956474_d6ac972b1c_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nZdqAo)

The original plan was to etch the brass with muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide, then add patina to certain parts with ammonia fumes, but it wasn't going the way I wanted to. Everything I tried for a mask on the test parts ended up failing, things just weren't getting done the way they should be, etc., so I opted out of the chemicals and went for a "brushed and polished" look instead:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5494/14452257553_70a31e8845_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o26AEn)

I made the brass parts, put them on my hilts, drilled and tapped the holes, and then did a final polish and a spray-on lacquer seal for the brass, to keep it looking good.

And, after all that work, a few weeks of my evenings and weekends, the moment of truth. I installed the electronics today.

I learned a lot. :p

Especially about cram-fu. If I do this again at some point, different choices will be made.

Anyway, I took my stuff to the soldering station at work (better than my apartment), and started pulling wires, soldering, crimping, shrink-tubing, etc. I followed my FJK/SS/JGJ-approved wiring diagram, and then packed my stuff up and took it home. Four hours later.

Nervous all the way home...will it work? When I pull out the kill plug, and plug in the charger, will it explode? How long does it have to charge before I can turn it on? WHEN WILL I KNOW IF ALL OF MY EFFORTS WERE IN VAIN!?!?!?!

So, I get home, put the brass shrouds on, and pull out the kill plugs to start the charging....

AND THE GREEN ACCENT LED LIGHTS UP, AND IT MAKES A BOOT-UP NOISE. I almost wet myself. Maybe I did. A little. :oops:

I push the button. It turns on. I weep a bit. I insert an unfinished blade and play with it in my living room.

Then I do the same thing to the other one. It works too.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2923/14430948704_7225581afd_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nZdohq)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5484/14432071075_b6351b2b00_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nZj8VD)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5077/14430760912_05fe541b64_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nZcqsC)

And with the lights on (please pardon the unfinished blades...no diffusers, fingerprints, dust, etc.):

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/14432069495_eedd73ce9c_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nZj8sp)

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2937/14245465278_49cace4651_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nGPJwj)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5481/14452252973_ee522c52a6_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o26zip)

Again. A humble thanks for all the help. :D

And now...

--Finish the blades.
--Drill and tap the blade set-screw holes.
--The clash sound works great. The swing sound is a bit...insensitive. I may pull the SD cards out and try editing the file to change that.
--Wait until the extra parts I ordered from Tim show up...then do some more brass work, remove the pommels, and screw together a saber staff... :twisted: Then I can have either a pair, or a staff. WHEEEEE!

I apologize for the length of this thread and all the extra pictures. I am just VERY excited. :D

~~Kage

[JakeSoft]

Those are very nice looking sabers you've constructed. Good job. What did you use for the sound boards?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ahhhh, one more happy, satisfied and uninjured Padawan to add to the list. :D

Congrats!!! I'm glad everything worked out for you. :)

[Kagetora]

Those are very nice looking sabers you've constructed. Good job. What did you use for the sound boards?

Nano Biscottes. I went simple for my first build...the parts list thread is here:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?16638-Yet-another-parts-list-from-a-first-timer!-Rejoice!-*sigh*-Seriously-thank-you

[Kagetora]

Ahhhh, one more happy, satisfied and uninjured Padawan to add to the list. :D

Congrats!!! I'm glad everything worked out for you. :)

Would never have happened without your help. :D

[Kagetora]

Oh, hey...another question. Now would be the time to plug both of them in and charge them up fully, right? :D

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Oh, hey...another question. Now would be the time to plug both of them in and charge them up fully, right? :D

If you have 2 chargers, otherwise one at a time will be fine. ;)

[Starwinder]

Congrats on finishing your first(s) - they turned out great!
Let the addiction commence! ;)

[Sevinzol]

Nice shroud work

[DarthMarr]

very pertty! Looooooove the shroud work. where did you get the brass tube? ive looked everywher and couldnt find any with the specs. that tim gives the mhs sleeve material.

[Kagetora]

very pertty! Looooooove the shroud work. where did you get the brass tube? ive looked everywher and couldnt find any with the specs. that tim gives the mhs sleeve material.

Thanks!

Online Metals has brass tube in .04" thickness (1.5" OD, 1.42" ID). It won't slip over MHS parts...you notice all of my parts are cut lengthwise. After you do that, it slips right over and you can drill and tap screw holes. I used #2 - 52 screws and a tap to attach it.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1561&step=4&showunits=inches&id=84&top_cat=79

[Silver Serpent]

Congrats on completing your sabers! They look great.

It's a really wonderful feeling when you ignite a new saber for the first time. It never gets old, no matter how many you build. :)

[craig139]

Neat looking sabers!! As they are identical, would you be connecting them together for a dual saber? Or just using them two handed?

[Ty_Bomber]

Awesome sabers.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Very nicely done, congratulations on taking your first steps into a larger world!

[Kagetora]

Neat looking sabers!! As they are identical, would you be connecting them together for a dual saber? Or just using them two handed?

I have some parts coming to connect them. I had designed a quick-detach set of pommels (not a new idea by any means, obviously), and also saw the one's Tim makes, and then I decided not to go that route. I keep thinking that the shorter blades on the staff will make the individual sabers look goofy when detached, and the normally longer blades on the single sabers would make them grossly too long when connected together. I'd rather not carry around a golf-bag full of blades and swap them out all the time. :p

So, I just ordered a slotted double-male extension and two .75" regular extensions, one for each end of it. Tim filled me in on a tip about sanding down the female ends of the two .75" extensions a little bit at a time, then screwing things together to test, so that I can make the two hilts line up exactly. I'll do that, then do some brass work on the center extension to match everything, and I can have my pick...two individual sabers with the pommels on them now, or remove those and screw together the staff. Easy. And less expensive than custom-machined parts or the quick-disconnect that Tim sells.

[Kagetora]

Thanks for all the encouragement, everyone. :D

Now, I have a question for you. I still have to drill and tap the set screws for the blades. I think I have three options:

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2934/14437896991_edc7b5d328_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nZPZLt)

A: Right on the "front," above the activation switch, with a gold knurled knob/screw (blade length selector?)
B: Right on the "back," in the hollow the shroud makes, with a 1/4" allen-key set screw
C: UNDER the shroud on the back, with a hidden allen-key set screw. I would have to unscrew the blade holder slightly (1/8 turn or so), put the blade in and tighten down the screw, then screw the blade holder back in.

I'm torn. "A" seems more...traditional, somehow, but I am afraid it will ruin the way the hilts look. They are reasonably sleek now, with nothing really "sticking out." "B" solves that problem, sort of, but then its just a visible screw in the back. "C" seems like a good way to hide things, but I am afraid that will turn out to be too...fiddly. Possibly even annoying.

I'd love to hear opinions and suggestions!

[craig139]

Which pommel style is the quick disconnect?

[JakeSoft]

Which pommel style is the quick disconnect?

There is no wrong answer; that's the beauty of saber building. I think you'll find option C impractical, but it has the advantage of allowing you to do the other options later if you don't like it. You could easily drill a non-hidden hole on the front or back of the blade holder after you've already drilled a hole hidden under the shroud.

[ghoti115]

Now, I have a question for you. I still have to drill and tap the set screws for the blades. I think I have three options:

A: Right on the "front," above the activation switch, with a gold knurled knob/screw (blade length selector?)
B: Right on the "back," in the hollow the shroud makes, with a 1/4" allen-key set screw
C: UNDER the shroud on the back, with a hidden allen-key set screw. I would have to unscrew the blade holder slightly (1/8 turn or so), put the blade in and tighten down the screw, then screw the blade holder back in.

I'm torn. "A" seems more...traditional, somehow, but I am afraid it will ruin the way the hilts look. They are reasonably sleek now, with nothing really "sticking out." "B" solves that problem, sort of, but then its just a visible screw in the back. "C" seems like a good way to hide things, but I am afraid that will turn out to be too...fiddly. Possibly even annoying.

I'd love to hear opinions and suggestions!
I like the idea of a knob/screw set up as you described in A, agree that the placement of the screw may change the look you are trying to achieve. B seems like the better choice if you want to keep a sleek style to the hilt. C does look like it will take more effort than it is worth just to remove the blade. If you are limiting to just these three choices, I would say B seems to be the best.

I just want to put another idea into your head and ask why you aren't considering using a knob/screw for option B? If it's a matter of the placement, would you consider placing point B onto the shroud? It would let you have the the traditional look while also keeping the "front" looking sleek. Another idea may be to use a Covertec Button Thumbscrew (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-Covertec-Button-Thumbscrew-P825.aspx) there. Placing it over the shroud would also give you some color options. You could use sliver to match a majority of the hilt or black to the rings around your hilt.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

There is no wrong answer; that's the beauty of saber building. I think you'll find option C impractical, but it has the advantage of allowing you to do the other options later if you don't like it. You could easily drill a non-hidden hole on the front or back of the blade holder after you've already drilled a hole hidden under the shroud.

From a design perspective, it does matter. ;)

If you are going to use a traditional thumb screw, your best placement bet would be "A". I could see/understand option "B" if you were using a set screw that didn't stick out at all, and interfere with the shroud design. Option "C" just looks like you slapped the screw anywhere.

[Silver Serpent]

Hiding the screw under your shroud, as in Option "C," is only a good idea if you rarely intend to remove the blade. I've done it myself on my saber cane, and I never remove the blade unless I need to repair something. Removing the blade any other time is a pain in the rear.

[Kagetora]

Ugh. Another 14-hour workday, and I'll be back there in 9 hours. Another day of nothing accomplished. :-|

I appreciate the opinions! At this point, I think I am leaning toward option "B." A flush-mount set screw on the back, just above the shroud. I like to hold my sword hilts with hands spread, one high (partially on the blade holder), and one low. Or just up high with one hand. I think the knob would get in the way. So, set screw it is.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Loving the shroud work. Pointy pommels though? :P That's just me but I would've gone something more Jedi looking. I kinda like the blades how they look actually to be honest, kind of transluscent in a way which is different. I like different in sabers. I know you plan to finish them, just an idea I'm throwing out there.

[Kagetora]

Loving the shroud work. Pointy pommels though? :P That's just me but I would've gone something more Jedi looking. I kinda like the blades how they look actually to be honest, kind of transluscent in a way which is different. I like different in sabers. I know you plan to finish them, just an idea I'm throwing out there.

:D The best thing about all of this is if I get tired of the pointy pommels, I order a couple different ones with inserts and screw them in. Tim has a great system.

[MandoJoe]

Those shrouds are fantastic. I love the fact that the finish on them makes them look more organic. Personal preference here? I'd leave them as is and not polish them at all. They'd look great polished too, but something about it just screams "living force" to me.

[Kagetora]

Those shrouds are fantastic. I love the fact that the finish on them makes them look more organic. Personal preference here? I'd leave them as is and not polish them at all. They'd look great polished too, but something about it just screams "living force" to me.

Thanks! And, yes, they are done as far as polish goes. I like the "brushed" look with the highly polished edging. I put some spray lacquer over them to keep them from corroding too quickly while being handled.

I'll tell you this...polishing brass is not an easy task. I had 600 grit sandpaper, a wire wheel and my dremel, felt polishing wheels with polishing compound for it too...its hard to get it evenly shiny and pretty. Plus, as you are polishing, you are removing material, and you might find "flaws" in the brass, which then have to be polished out, thereby removing more material, etc.

I don't recommend it. ;)

If I build another saber and use more brass on it, I am going to try the brushed look all over it, with a shiny pattern in it carved out. I'll need a better work space for that though...a bench vise, and some small metal-carving chisels. And some practice pieces. :D

[Kagetora]

Oh, and the extra parts from Tim arrived: :D

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5554/14450220166_00eb240f0a_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o1Va21)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3852/14471968334_6340746b3f_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o3QBZq)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3888/14286869827_fdb4548d92_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nLtWDR)

[craig139]

That looks awesome!!! Congratulations!