WIP My Padawan Lightsaber

[Private Browser]

Greetings,

My first shipment of saber parts has arrived and I have started working on my first lightsaber, however I would very much appreciate the input from more experienced saber builders.

Here are a couple pictures of my progress so far,

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee180/Benguitar2/b2a2666c53f0e69fe1bf8ea01510010f_zps116e5ea4.jpg?t =1400301113
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee180/Benguitar2/75dcc452b3a261ee4d0a23587f0ce2d8_zpsabcc1990.jpg?t =1400301121

Nothing is wired yet, however judging by my rusty soldering skills I will definitely be utilizing the CSS quick connect system.

I have a few questions,

1st - Is it possible to adjust where the threads on your blade holder (or any piece) line up? As you can see the emitter is slightly off centered on my saber and I was wondering if I put an o-ring in between the emitter and the hilt if I could tighten it down and hopefully have them fall more in line?

2nd - What are some good home made metal aging practices? I am thinking about purchasing an extra piece or two for my saber and I would like to add my own personal touch?

3rd - Clear coating? Should I clear coat my hilt pieces before I wire everything up to prevent the aluminum from turning pink when it tarnishes?

4th - I would like to build a saber where I can remove almost all of the internal components easily using the disk and rod system, other than the switch and the LED/heatsink is this possible to do on a saber using the Nano Biscotte board and quick disconnects? If so, what would you recommend for a good place to start with mounting things, I am currently using the 4AA battery case, as I like the idea of being able to swap out replacement batteries quickly instead of having to recharge a battery over the course of a couple hours.

5th - Do I need to use/can I use an auxiliary switch with the NB?

6th - Can somebody explain in detail why rechargeable batteries seem to be preferred? I like the idea of being able to quickly swap batteries without having to recharge them, (could be handy when attending an event) but I'm worried about over charging a rechargeable battery, and so on? Also, what kind of battery should I be using/ what would you recommend?

7th - The buck puck, I'm using a Rebel Star Royal Blue and a Rebel Star Cyan (not in the same saber, I'm actually helping my brother build his first saber as well) and I was wondering how the buck puck falls into play here? Does it take place of the resistor and you still must use it even if you are using a sound board like the Nano Biscotte?

Thank you very much for reading, I will try to keep this thread updated as I go along.

Hopefully this will show the progress of my first saber build well.

---Ben

[Ty_Bomber]

1st - Is it possible to adjust where the threads on your blade holder (or any piece) line up? As you can see the emitter is slightly off centered on my saber and I was wondering if I put an o-ring in between the emitter and the hilt if I could tighten it down and hopefully have them fall more in line?

1. I have no experience in this regard, as I always drill and tap my own holes.

2. I like aluminuim black, which is a mild acid, but you can also try paint and wipe method, or baking the pieces in olive oil for a rusted/coppery look.

3. I clear coat my pieces to protect the paint, but I am unnaware of aluminum tarnishing or turning pink...

4. Yes, it is possible, but keep in mind that those disconnects take up a lot of room in the hilt, and it adds up fast. You could always have rechargable 14500 (AA) sized li-ion batteries that you can charge out of the hilt, though this would provide far too much voltage for the nano. I would recommend the acrylic discs for a 3.7v 18650 and Nano Biscotti, with a rechargable pack on quick disconnects for the 18650. This will allow you to swap out the battery easily for charging, optimal voltage for the soundboard, best in class runtimes, and still maintain a very rigid and sturdy chassis. You will need to buy two 18650 batteries, however, and an appropriate charger.

5. No aux effects for the nano, I am afraid. You will need a Petit Crouton for those lovely (and in my opinion, neccessary effects). The nano gives you two fonts to choose from, which include 1 boot, 8 swings, 8 clashes, 1 ignition and 1 retraction sound. PC gives you 3 fonts to choose from, which include 4 boots (startup sounds), 8 swings, 8 clashes, 1 ignition, 1 retraction, 4 blaster blocks, 1 force sound, and one lockup sound. The PC is well worth the premium.

6. Rechargable batteries pay for themselves. It is that simple. They also last much, much longer on a single charge. A single 18650 can run a nano for few hours, easy. Alkalines will only run the high powered leds we use for literally minutes. Trust me. Why make a costco run for alkalines whenever you want to play Jedi? Also, use lithium-ions. They have the best runtimes, are the most stable, and generally the gold standard. NimH are also rechargable alternatives, but drain quickly in comparison.

7th - The buck puck is a constant current driver, delivering a constant current (and therefore, brightness) to the led during the live of the battery. If you are running a stunt with 4 alkalines, or a red blade, it's usually a good idea. If you are sticking with the recommended 3.7V li-ion battery with the LED you just listed above, skip it. The voltage of your battery and recommended voltage of the blues and cyans are so close, it won't be neccessary, and will take up precious, precious space in your hilt. If you're using a Nano, again skip it. Don't use it if you don't have to.

These were good questions, I hope it helped. If you keep this up you will be in good shape in no time. Cheers.

[RavenXp]

Well, I can answer some of that from my patrolling the forums learning what I need for my first build. A buckpuck isn't needed if your using a control board such as the PC or NB. As for the batteries, I think it has mostly to do with runtime. Alkaline batteries don't seem to have the longevity of a lithium ion pack (best guess from reading). Also I think there would be an issue of batteries coming loose in the hilt if you swing hard enough. I wouldn't worry too much about over charging the lithium ion pack (protected) from the store. It has a built in failsafe board.

Ty beat me to it :-P

[amwolf]

In regards to your first question, it is possible to sand the LED assembly a smidge if you need to make a very small adjustment to close a tiny gap at the blade holder. Yours... is not a small adjustment. The best way to make sure stuff lines up is to let Tim know when you order the parts that you want the switch hole to line up with the high point on that blade holder, and the space between the slots to line up with the switch (this may take a custom work request). All the associated parts have to be ordered at the same time. Doesn't help you at the moment.

Consider the switch placement a key design element (axiality is over rated) - it's placed there for a reason. You've got some cool shroud options available; revel in the asymmetry!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Basically, what the others told you is accurate.

Regarding the switch placement and getting things lined up, in the future you should mention it to Tim first, so first he can work it out for you.

[Private Browser]

No worries, I was just wondering if it was something that was possible, however I am kind of digging the asymmetry.

Here is a PDF of what I have so far for my second order, (yes most things are doubled for two sabers)

I also know that I am missing the power connectors, as they are sold out, however I think I can find them locally at Radio Shack.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17584472/My%20Cart.pdf

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

If you are going to buy PC's, they typically need the 7.4V packs, unless you plan on doing the 3.7V hack on them.

[Private Browser]

If you are going to buy PC's, they typically need the 7.4V packs, unless you plan on doing the 3.7V hack on them.

Fixed,

New dropbox link

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17584472/My%20Cart2.pdf

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Fixed,

New dropbox link

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17584472/My%20Cart2.pdf

If you are using the hilt in the first post to put all this into, you may want to try again. That battery pack isn't going to fit with everything else. ;)

[Private Browser]

If you are using the hilt in the first post to put all this into, you may want to try again. That battery pack isn't going to fit with everything else. ;)

Extension time..?

I now see why people's hilts are so long..

Editing,

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17584472/My%20Cart3.pdf

Swapped 18650 for 14650, and swapped disks to match.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Extension time..?

I now see why people's hilts are so long..


Well, most new people don't have a good idea of what will and won't work. That plus they tend to think that Lightsabers are like a TARDIS, small on the outside, and considerably larger on the inside. ;)

[Private Browser]

Well, most new people don't have a good idea of what will and won't work. That plus they tend to think that Lightsabers are like a TARDIS, small on the outside, and considerably larger on the inside. ;)

Indeed :)

[RavenXp]

Which is why I sketched out all my parts onto graph paper to see if it'll all fit when designing the saber I'm currently building. Didn't want to spend $600+ and not have enough room. That's my advice for your next build, draw it out.

[Private Browser]

Which is why I sketched out all my parts onto graph paper to see if it'll all fit when designing the saber I'm currently building. Didn't want to spend $600+ and not have enough room. That's my advice for your next build, draw it out.

Great idea, do you treat each cube on the graph paper as 1"?

I think figure something out, I'm considering putting an extension above my hilt to store the battery, while I store the PC and speaker by my pommel.

[RavenXp]

I used a 1:1 scale, the parts are small enough to fit on a standard sheet of paper.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Great idea, do you treat each cube on the graph paper as 1"?

I think figure something out, I'm considering putting an extension above my hilt to store the battery, while I store the PC and speaker by my pommel.

While I'm all for planning things out on paper, what you really need to get use to is figuring out the actual sizes of various things which are 3 dimensional. You likewise need to invest in a ruler that handles inches and metric measurements, and know how to translate one to the other. Let's try a simple quiz...

The battery pack I dissuaded you from getting, do you know how long it is in mm? In inches?

In any extension piece, do you know how much actual usable space you'll have?

[RavenXp]

While I'm all for planning things out on paper, what you really need to get use to is figuring out the actual sizes of various things which are 3 dimensional. You likewise need to invest in a ruler that handles inches and metric measurements, and know how to translate one to the other. Let's try a simple quiz...

The battery pack I dissuaded you from getting, do you know how long it is in mm? In inches?

In any extension piece, do you know how much actual usable space you'll have?

He's not wrong, I won't know if my sketching is going to work for sure till I have the parts or a PVC mockup. I'm learning a lot about saber building from SS and FJK's forum posts, thank you.

[Private Browser]

Here is a rough drawing of parts inside the saber,

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee180/Benguitar2/PadawanV1_zps0ea0ac4c.jpg

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I see a choke has magically appeared. :D

The RICE port (hole) comes out of the hilt where?

Also, how are you securing the chassis within your hilt?

How many quick disconnects do you think you'll have in total?

[Private Browser]

I see a choke has magically appeared. :D

The RICE port (hole) comes out of the hilt where?

Also, how are you securing the chassis within your hilt?

How many quick disconnects do you think you'll have in total?

Yes, I wanted to add a choke anyway,

The rice port will stay inside the hilt, I got the idea from Genesis Customs, from a hilt he did once. I will probably hot glue the R.I.C.E. port to the hilt internally.

I will open the choke and connect the R.I.C.E. cable. Less drilling on my end.

Chassis, as in the disks? I didn't think they needed securing if the rods are at the right length they should receive pressure from the male/female threads on each end which should hold them in place? How else could I secure them?

One disconnect from the LED to the board, one from the recharge port to the board/battery, so only 2 for now.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Chassis, as in the disks? I didn't think they needed securing if the rods are at the right length they should receive pressure from the male/female threads on each end which should hold them in place? How else could I secure them?


Chassis is the whole speaker holder, chassis disks cylinder (with battery and board). What usually happens is people tend to use something like speaker holder 5 that has a lip which can be secured between 2 pieces this way the rest doesn't move, assuming you connect the disks to the speaker holder via the rods.

Securing the RICE port via hot glue is iffy, and again, I think you might find that you have less space than you think. ;)

Isn't playing 20 questions with me fun? :D

[Private Browser]

Chassis is the whole speaker holder, chassis disks cylinder (with battery and board). What usually happens is people tend to use something like speaker holder 5 that has a lip which can be secured between 2 pieces this way the rest doesn't move, assuming you connect the disks to the speaker holder via the rods.

Securing the RICE port via hot glue is iffy, and again, I think you might find that you have less space than you think. ;)

Isn't playing 20 questions with me fun? :D

Quite fun indeed.

Personally I would love the ribbed extension, but I don't want a hilt that is 14" long!

Perhaps I will look into mounting the R.I.C.E. port on the hilt, or to the internal disks.

I was planning on using the rods to connect to the speaker holder, and then the disks that would hold the battery and board.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

My point was, what would prevent the whole assembly from sliding up and down the hilt, if it isn't "secured" so that it doesn't slide up and down, and say hit your switch, or something?

The whole idea behind RICE is so that you don't have to keep opening up the hilt, to make manual changes to the SD card to change settings. Though planning for easy access to your SD card is ALWAYS highly recommended. Tearing sabers apart isn't that much fun. ;)

[Private Browser]

My point was, what would prevent the whole assembly from sliding up and down the hilt, if it isn't "secured" so that it doesn't slide up and down, and say hit your switch, or something?

The whole idea behind RICE is so that you don't have to keep opening up the hilt, to make manual changes to the SD card to change settings. Though planning for easy access to your SD card is ALWAYS highly recommended. Tearing sabers apart isn't that much fun. ;)

I've come to the conclusion that the current layout needs to be scrapped as there is no way to achieve what I want with this layout and I don't want to add extension tube after extension tube just to fit all my components because the ignition switch isn't in an optimal spot.

I wasn't aware that the ignition switch can really screw up a layout of hilt components.

I will try to come up with some drawings when I get home from work today, I'm thinking along the lines of utilizing control box(es) to help with mounting the switches and ports.

Padawan regret I have..

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Padawan regret I have..

More you will have. Pay for it, your wallet will. Survive it all, you shall. ;)

[Private Browser]

More you will have. Pay for it, your wallet will. Survive it all, you shall. ;)

It damn.

;)

I might be able to still use the hilt, but I want to draw it out and get your opinions.

[Private Browser]

Alright, lets give this a reviewing.

Starting from left to right, I'll go through and name the pieces.

Pommel - Style 1
Bass Speaker & Enclosure - Style V4
Chassis Disc - Style 2 with holes
Rods
14500 Li-ion battery
Petite Crouton
Acrylic Disc for PC & 14500 x3
Nickel Power Switch
Chassis Disc - Style 2 with holes
Double ended male connector - Style 1
3" Female to female extension
Nickel AUX Switch
Recharge port
R.I.C.E. Port
Emitter - Style 17 with heatsink

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee180/Benguitar2/Padawan_Re-build_1_zps619eb63b.jpg

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Much better, and it would probably be easier for you to install. You should strongly consider using a 14650 pack - it'll give you a slightly longer run time, and you have the space allotted for it already. For an auxiliary switch, you could use the small one you had previously mentioned, it is a lot smaller.

Is this going into your existing hilt, or a "new" one?

[Private Browser]

This was planned for the existing hilt,

I am thinking about changing to the small bb style aux switch, and is it possible to mount the RICE and recharge without a bracket? Basically can Tim thread the holes that they go in so that I mount them flush to the hilt without a control box?

If I was going to go with a new one, I'd ditch the hilt all together and have Tim make me some custom MHS pipes with the proper button placements.

I'll change the battery, and if everything else checks out I'll place my order tonight.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

This was planned for the existing hilt,

I am thinking about changing to the small bb style aux switch, and is it possible to mount the RICE and recharge without a bracket? Basically can Tim thread the holes that they go in so that I mount them flush to the hilt without a control box?


Yes, BUT the real question is can you thread them in from the inside with all the wires pre soldered on? It's not going to be nearly as easy as you might think. A RICE / recharge port box might be in your best interest. ;)

[Private Browser]

Yes, BUT the real question is can you thread them in from the inside with all the wires pre soldered on? It's not going to be nearly as easy as you might think. A RICE / recharge port box might be in your best interest. ;)

I see your point,

I would love to mount the R.I.C.E., Recharge and AUX switch to Activation box style 1, because I think I could mount them and wire them, make sure they work, and then close up the box.

Do you think that box is tall enough to fit the recharge and RICE?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

And how would you be securing all that to the box, assuming it all fit in there? Depending on which switch you ultimately go with, I would suggest you have Tim modify say box 19 to handle a RICE port instead of the switch OR use a box 15 with the tiny BB switch (switch 22) separately because that would be more of a push fit into the hilt anyway.

[Private Browser]

And how would you be securing all that to the box, assuming it all fit in there? Depending on which switch you ultimately go with, I would suggest you have Tim modify say box 19 to handle a RICE port instead of the switch OR use a box 15 with the tiny BB switch (switch 22) separately because that would be more of a push fit into the hilt anyway.

New cart, with modified box 19, switches and new battery.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17584472/Padawan_Re-build_1_Cart.pdf

Also, what do you use to clear coat metal?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Did you check with Tim to make sure he could / would modify the box? You may want to invest in a little more wiring it goes by after than you think...

I personally have never clear coated my sabers. Never had a need to. If I've handled them a lot (or fought with them), I just wipe them with a cloth before I put them back in the case.

[Private Browser]

Do you happen to have Tim's email by chance? I will shoot him an email first.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

It's sales@thecustomsabershop.com

[Private Browser]

It's sales@thecustomsabershop.com

Email sent, hopefully I'll get a reply from him and hopefully is a fairly easy modification.