N00b here. Guys I read a dozen or two threads and I'm a little turned around. Help?

[MadeByMonkeys]

Hello Custom Saber Shop Forum! I hope I won't elicit too may eye rolls with my n00b stumbling. :) I did find a few step-by-step posts that were very helpful in getting the basic ideas, but they're also a little dated and I admit, I lost track trying to follow the updates and changes through the reply threads. So.. I could really use a little direct guidance. I'm pretty much clueless when it comes to electronics and I'd love for a saber to be my learning project.

Here's what my cart looks like right now:

* Machine Guarded style switch hole 1.5" from end
* Pommel style 2
* MPS insert style 13
* Double male with slots style 2
* Screw on LED blade holder style 23
* 1.2" Double Female
* Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
* MHS "new style" heat sink v2
* LED "Corbin style" show blade 1" OD (36")
* Heatshrink tubing (1')
* Luxeon Rebel Star (Amber)
* Star Thermal Tape Pad

I've already got some toggle switches at home I want to use that are pretty similar to what's in the shop. I know I need some kind of battery pack (and I think my pommel insert allows for a charging port?) I also need some sort of resistor or LED control circuit, right? Can somebody help me fill in the gaps in my n00b build?

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

[Silver Serpent]

I'm going to make an assumption that the "* Machine Guarded style switch hole 1.5" from end" is going into one of the main body sections? If so, that will be fine.

You'll want an MPS clip http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx to hold your pommel insert in place.

With that pommel insert, you can indeed put a recharge port in the pommel, as well as a R.I.C.E. port (used with the Petit Crouton sound board).

You will need a resistor with that LED. Which one you need will depend on the battery you choose. Since you can install a recharge port into your pommel, I'd recommend a single protected li-ion battery (3.7v). The Rebel Amber LED runs at 700mA with a forward voltage of 3.2v. You can plug those values into the resistor calculator in my signature, or you can do the math yourself using Ohm's Law.

You will want a latching switch with this saber, or a momentary switch with the Momentary to Latching Converter http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Momentary-to-latching-converter-25-70v-P928.aspx unless you like holding the button down all the time.

I have a *very* simple wiring diagram if you're using a latching switch.
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a464/Eremith/Sabers/th_diagram-1.jpg (http://s1038.photobucket.com/user/Eremith/media/Sabers/diagram-1.jpg.html)
A: Battery
B: Switch
C: LED
D: Resistor

[MadeByMonkeys]

Thanks for your help and advice!

Hmm yeah my cart only shows the description of where the switch hole will be drilled. Does that mean I don't have the part in my cart? Should it be two line items? I populated my hilt pieces using the builder app.

I have vandal proof latching toggles that I think will work.

I need to do a little research about driving multiple LEDs (in series?) because I'd like to try to build a crystal chamber in the cutout area with some "found" components...

[MadeByMonkeys]

OK so yeah the main body I wanted wasn't in stock so it just put the milling service in there. LOL. I picked another main body.

I found the recharge port (there seems to only be one) and it says that one end gets wired to the battery and the other to the soundboard or buckpuck. Do I need a buckpuck (rather than a resistor) if I want to use the recharge port? I'll start looking for more threads to read. :)

The charger product page doesn't mention the size of the jack, can I assume it fits the 2.1mm Li-Ion charger in the shop?

Thank you again, very much!

[Silver Serpent]

The recharge port wire that goes to the soundboard/buckpuck is just the wire that goes to your electronics, no matter what you're running. I just scratch out the words "sound board" and replace them with "stuff I want to power up."

The chargers sold in the store use compatible 2.1mm jacks.

Driving multiple LEDs in series will require additional voltage (and likely a more powerful battery pack), while driving them in parallel will just use additional current.

[MadeByMonkeys]

Thanks for the clarification about the charging port wiring, that is really helpful. I'm just worried about applying charging current to something that might not take kindly to it (again, very novice in electronics here.)

I read a few tutorials online last night that had specifically to do with LEDs and I think I understood the series/parallel distinctions, although I'm not super clear on what current is measured in (amps?). I've tried more generalized electronics primers and I just can't internalize it, need a practical application (like a lightsaber!)

The illuminated switches I have run off 12v, so I'll have to figure out a way to fit a 12v power source into my saber (or else find a different switch). Maybe A23s?

Thanks again for taking the time to enlighten a novice!!

[Silver Serpent]

You are correct, current is measured in amps. We tend to use milliamps (mA) in our calculations.

I would recommend getting a different switch than trying to put a 12v power source in your saber. For one, a 12v pack would take up a significant amount of room. For two, you'd end up wasting a lot of energy as heat while bringing the 12v down to the level that the main blade LEDs require.

Series wiring has everything done up in a chain, one after another. In series wiring, current remains constant, but required voltage increases.
In parallel wiring, it's like a multi-lane highway. Voltage remains constant, but the required current increases.

There are benefits to each method of wiring, and it mostly depends on what you want to do.

[MadeByMonkeys]

Yeah I ordered the switches a little too hastily. I wonder if I can get them open and replace the LED with something lower voltage without destroying them. :)

[Silver Serpent]

There are people in this hobby who have opened switches and replaced the LEDs inside, so it is possible. Depending on your personal skill level, you may or may not be able to do it yourself.

[MadeByMonkeys]

Well I'm not shy about going at it with some pliers or cutters. I'm mostly worried about whether the switch itself is going to endure my hacking. No way to find out but to do it! :)

Thanks again, you've been really helpful with my dumb questions! :)