Yet another parts list from a first timer! Rejoice! *sigh* Seriously...thank you.

[Kagetora]

Ok, so I think I might have a handle on this after having a few questions answered in another thread.

I'm looking at a hilt along these lines (end-to-end):
--Blade holder (newer style for LED module), drill/tap for screw
--7" main hilt body (undecided on style right now) with drill/tap for switch box
--Activation box style 9 (AV switch, recharging port)
--MHS extension (male-to-female, 1.5")
--Double male w/slots extension
--Custom pommel (going to ask about a custom job, its about 2" long)

That give an overall length of around 14", with 9" of usable space between the blade holder and the slotted extension.

The electronics:
--Rebel Star LED and MHS Heatsink Module (Green)
--Nano Biscotte Sound Module V2
--18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB protected rechargeable Li-Ion battery module
--PCB for 3.7V Li-Ion battery
--1000mA Buckpuck 4-wire
--2.1mm Power Jack
--16mm AV short momentary green dot switch
--MHS Speaker Mount V6 with 28mm Speaker

So, the Speaker, Mount, Battery Pack, and Nano all form a single 5" unit that goes at the "top" end of the slotted extension (into the main body, which allows for good sound, correct?). That leaves about 4" for the Recharge Port, AV switch, and Buckpuck, before we get to the LED assembly. Assuming I wire/solder everything correctly, I should have a nice, bright green saber with excellent sound and about 2 hours battery life.

In reality, I am still working out the specifics of the bottom end of the hilt...basically, the part from the 1.5" m-t-f extension down. I'm not sure I want the slotted extension or something else, but that's kind of a moot point...regardless of what I put down there (even just a basic pommel and grill), I am left with the same "working space" of about 9".

So, now, the big question...

What did I screw up?

And thanks. :-D

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK, first off, with what you have electronics wise, you don't need a buck puck or the PCB, because the battery you selected is protected (means PCB is already included). A picture of the saber would be nice.

[Kagetora]

OK, first off, with what you have electronics wise, you don't need a buck puck or the PCB, because the battery you selected is protected (means PCB is already included). A picture of the saber would be nice.

And this is why I need help. To be honest, I have a degree in electronics, and spent 5 years as an ET working on Navy gear (HUD's, radios, radars, etc.). Microminiature soldering and the works. But the descriptions in the store leave a LOT to be desired. LOL.

So, if I understand your reply, the Battery has the PCB integral to it (one less part...yay!), and the Nano does the job of the Buckpuck? Or is there some other reason I don't need the Buckpuck?

I'll work up a pic of the hilt, but bear in mind...I'm just picking the smooth stuff right now, as I haven't decided on whether I want to wrap the hilt, have grooves/o-rings, powder coating, or what have you. Which is all irrelevant, since the main sections are all 7" long. I'll see what I can do. And thanks again.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

And this is why I need help. To be honest, I have a degree in electronics, and spent 5 years as an ET working on Navy gear (HUD's, radios, radars, etc.). Microminiature soldering and the works. But the descriptions in the store leave a LOT to be desired. LOL.

So, if I understand your reply, the Battery has the PCB integral to it (one less part...yay!), and the Nano does the job of the Buckpuck? Or is there some other reason I don't need the Buckpuck?

I'll work up a pic of the hilt, but bear in mind...I'm just picking the smooth stuff right now, as I haven't decided on whether I want to wrap the hilt, have grooves/o-rings, powder coating, or what have you. Which is all irrelevant, since the main sections are all 7" long. I'll see what I can do. And thanks again.

The NB does the job of a buck puck, more or less. Regarding the hilt, the frills are irrelevant, I just would like to see the actual parts assembled and I'll get the picture from there. ;)

[Kagetora]

An image of the bare-bones version. Blade holder, basic hilt, 1.5" of extensions (2 .75", since the 1.5" in the MHS builder was a different O.D.?), slotted extension, pommel stand-in for what I am going to ask to be made:

9885

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK. I'm not sure WHY you need the the 1.5" extension for, but I got the picture now. What are you going to use the slotted section for?

[Kagetora]

With what you have told me, I probably don't need it. I thought I needed extra room for the Buckpuck and PCB board. Its likely I can do away with the 1.5" extension.

As for the slotted section, it was to allow the sound to "escape" well. The pommel I was thinking about having made would end up being solid, with no opening/screen on the bottom, so I was thinking I needed the slotted part so I didn't muffle the heck out of it. I was basically planning on mounting the speaker on the right end of the slotted section in the image, where it connects to the main body.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK, but usually, the pommels have a hole at the bottom of them and with some type of pommel insert, they do a good job at getting the sound out. I'll be interested to see what the final product looks like.

[Kagetora]

And....so will I. LOL. In all honesty, if the custom-machined parts don't work out, I'll be falling back on a basic pommel with insert, so no harm, no foul. Other than that, the electronics part looks good?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

And....so will I. LOL. In all honesty, if the custom-machined parts don't work out, I'll be falling back on a basic pommel with insert, so no harm, no foul. Other than that, the electronics part looks good?

Yep, You're starting out pretty basic, which is a good thing. You should be able to easily handle this. I'm sure Silver Serpent (a.k.a SS) will also be by to look over your parts list tomorrow or something.

[Kagetora]

Thank you. I really appreciate it. All I'm looking for is a good, bright LED for a duelling blade, and decent sound. I don't really need the variable brightness, accent lighting, or custom sound SD cards, or anything like that. At least....not yet. I am sure I will get addicted at some point. :-D

[Silver Serpent]

I didn't notice anything important missing. Depending on how the switch LED is wired, you may or may not need a resistor for it. If you're hooking to one of the 3.3v pads on the NB, you should be fine without one.

If you end up going with a standard pommel/insert combo instead of your custom design, then don't forget the MPS clip to hold your pommel insert in place.

FJK covered the rest of it. I'd say you're off to a good start.

[Kagetora]

Thanks for your input as well, and the heads up on the clip and potentially needed resistor!