New saber idea Need chassis help

[Avendale]

Well I want to try and construct another saber but a bit more challenging this time. I have a CF 6.5 and color extender. I will be using a 7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack as the power plant. The body will be a 6" Fluted double female threaded connector. I have a few questions.

1. Is the 7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack to long for the Fluted double female threaded connector with the use of a Activation box style 13 and a 12mm Anti Vandal Momentary Blue Ring Switch

2. Will the switch's /RICE and recharge port be to long for the battery? Would a Activation box style 12 give me more height?

3. If so what power set up would best support this build.

4. I want to use a chassis system for this build but I only see PC Chassis on TCSS. Does anyone make such a thing?

I want to use a PLI (Power Level Indicator) as well but I cant find any text on how to install it.

If I have left any information out or have missed anything I would love the input.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Why don't we start with a picture of the hilt. From the sounds of it so far, sounds like you have more "stuff" than you have "hilt".

[Avendale]

This is what I came up with on MHS builder

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/SaberBuilder_render-1.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/SaberBuilder_render-1.png.html)

[Silver Serpent]

You'll likely be using the metal chassis discs, modifying the acrylic discs yourself, or getting http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LASER-Services-P812.aspx if you want to build a chassis from parts here at TCSS. All are valid options.

I'm honestly uncertain if you'll have enough depth to support both the 18650 stick pack AND the various switches, ports, etc. The 18650 stick pack will take up the majority of that 6" DF (at least in length).

You mentioned a 12mm AV switch. Be advised that it won't fit in the AV switch hole on the activation box. I know it says "any AV switch" in the description, but that was written before Tim added the 12mm variants.

You've got a lot of cram-fu ahead of you if you intend to put all those parts into that particular saber. I'm pretty sure it can be done, but I don't know how difficult it will be.

[Avendale]

Is my hilt just to short? The 7'' Df flute does not have the lines going the full length of the hilt.
Should I go with a side by side battery?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Is my hilt just to short? The 7'' Df flute does not have the lines going the full length of the hilt.
Should I go with a side by side battery?

Yes, your hilt is too short, all of what you originally posted isn't going to fit inside that. Even if you use a side by side 14650 pack, and a 7" main body piece, that would get you most of the way there, but you still would't have room for the CEX. And where diid you want to place the PLI?

[Avendale]

Ok would the shop be able to make an 8" DF all fluted ? I wanted to put the the pli maybe 45 degrees from the switches. Maybe I should down the av to an switch 20 or 21 and move the recharge/ rice to another location. What is an average Length of hilt will all of this ?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok would the shop be able to make an 8" DF all fluted ? I wanted to put the the pli maybe 45 degrees from the switches. Maybe I should down the av to an switch 20 or 21 and move the recharge/ rice to another location. What is an average Length of hilt will all of this ?

I don't see why not, he did something similar for me on my Illustrious build. You just need to ask him, he'll quote you a custom price and go from there.

Regarding the PLI, it depends which one and how you plan on mounting it. 45 Degrees isn't going to happen. Objects inside hilts are a larger than they appear. Where you want to put things in a design can cause you all kinds of problems, so you really need to think carefully about where things go in a hilt, and how you're going to pull it's installation off.

[Avendale]

ok been playing with saber builder and I have come to the realization that I just have to designee my hilt like I want and then add the inside as I have room. I have a few questions. Activation box style 8 witch switches fit in there and how would I mount them?

If the box 8 does not work I guess I will go with box 17 with one Av and one smaller one. I want to add a box 15 for the recharge and the RICE.

so this is what I have come up with

MPS Pommel style 10
4" Double Female Grooved without holes
Ribbed / Choke Combo
Activation box style 8 (Over the back half of the Ribbed / Choke Combo)
Screw on LED blade holder style 25

This is just the hilt I know the internals are going to be tight. I have a CF6 but I am thinking of a PC 3 just because I could have at least 2 colors.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

ok been playing with saber builder and I have come to the realization that I just have to designee my hilt like I want and then add the inside as I have room. I have a few questions. Activation box style 8 witch switches fit in there and how would I mount them?

If the box 8 does not work I guess I will go with box 17 with one Av and one smaller one. I want to add a box 15 for the recharge and the RICE.

so this is what I have come up with

MPS Pommel style 10
Ribbed / Choke Combo
Activation box style 8 (Over the back half of the Ribbed / Choke Combo)
Screw on LED blade holder style 25

This is just the hilt I know the internals are going to be tight. I have a CF6 but I am thinking of a PC 3 just because I could have at least 2 colors.

I think you are missing some parts for your hilt. ;)

[Avendale]

Yep updated lol

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yep updated lol

Hmmm. Looks a little familiar :confused:.

My design critique is this: I don't know why you would be using the box 8 especially over a ribbed section. Ribbed sections have less room by definition. Also keep in mind that within a 4" section, there is only 3" of "usable space" - the other inch are the threaded parts at either end. I also don't know where you would put the RICE / recharge ports, ESPECIALLY if you use box #8. Boxes tend not to look that great over ribbed / V-groove sections. I think the other idea I gave you about modifying your original design would work lot better for you.

[bigkevin61]

I may be able to contribute to this conversation.
1) The Chassis Discs for the PC in the shop SHOULD fit a CF6 board. The PC2.0 dimensions are 48x23.5x7.5mm with 23.5mm being the "width". The CF6 dimensions are 53x23.5x7.5mm with 23.5 being the width. The CF is just longer, meaning you would have to space the discs out a bit more (to "lock" to the card at the "rough" bits on the sides). I looked into this for my CF7 board.
2) The Battery Pack you listed is also the one I purchased, and quite frankly, it is huge. I am also building a chassis from TCSS Parts, using a speaker mount for one end, and JUST that alone is a total of 6".

I ended up changing the length of my double female section to accommodate (just in case), as I am unsure if a reduction in inner diameter, transitioning to a ribbed choke section would interfere with where the battery is positioned in the chassis discs.

9886

[Avendale]

Ok I am just going with this line up

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/3F18E0F9-8412-48A3-9542-98ADFBBBC05A.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/3F18E0F9-8412-48A3-9542-98ADFBBBC05A.png.html)

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/A98A6FD5-7171-4064-9928-50D20DF5D65D.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/A98A6FD5-7171-4064-9928-50D20DF5D65D.png.html)

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/5051EF82-4223-4935-8B52-60FB7DA94849.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/5051EF82-4223-4935-8B52-60FB7DA94849.png.html)

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/93DC91D7-87B5-4919-A014-D902D7A196E2.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/93DC91D7-87B5-4919-A014-D902D7A196E2.png.html)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

When I mentioned the holes, both sets were supple to be up by the emitter. Something like this. The big box on top has the AV switch, small momentary - and the offset box (underneath) has the RICE port (approximately under the small momentary), and then the recharge port.

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k543/forgetfuljediknight/jonny_zps71e0bba2.jpg

[Avendale]

ok cool I don't know what happened to my picks but here they are again, I changed the Blade holder a bit I just did not like the top end.

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/saber2.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/saber2.png.html)

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/parts1.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/parts1.png.html)

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/parts2.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/parts2.png.html)

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/parts3.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/parts3.png.html)

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/avenda/parts3.png (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/avenda/media/parts3.png.html)

do I stick with the same battery or switch it out?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, you have the general idea now, the execution is all up to you.

[Avendale]

Is the PC V3 CeX that same as a CF Cex?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Is the PC V3 CeX that same as a CF Cex?

Yes it is.

[Avendale]

what is the ID of an 8 inch double female? I can t find it listed

[Starwinder]

It should be the standard MHS 1.25" ID

[Jay-gon Jinn]

what is the ID of an 8 inch double female? I can t find it listed All of the "standard" MHSv1 pieces have a 1.25" I.D. The ribbed extensions have a smaller 1.15" I.D.