My MHS Luke ROTJ project

[Firebird21]

Well I got my saber parts in, gave it a quick assembly just to light it up and marval at it...


But now I'm in a delema.

I want to put a recharge port on it, but after grabbing a size N Plug and stuff, I found out that there is almost no place to put it. It ether interferes with the location of the battery pack, (2 MHS Extensions) or just doesn't belong where the battery isn’t. (The ribbed section) Also, it will have a speaker in the pommel, so that's out.

I guess what I'm asking is, is there a better, smaller option for a recharge port, or setup, that would work for this?



Another problem that may arise is, does the MR S/B and Corbin's Driver fit into the MHS Ribbed section? Because this is the only place I'm going to be able to put it... So if it don't fit... That's going to suck. :cry: I haven’t gotten ether of these yet, but do plan on doing it in the near future.


I will try to get some pics up soon. I plan on polishing the aluminum and then Powder Coating probably the entire thing. I still have to check on prices and feasibility of what I want done.

I'm going to check on the availability and selection of Copper colors for the Emitter and I'm going to P/C the ribbed section black, polish the ribs (or give them a brushed look), then Clear P/C the rest of it for protection.

[Madcow]

Hmmm,
If it won't fit, consider using only the MR sound board. You can use it with a relay, to get full mA to a K2.
Can you do a recharge port in the switch box?

I'm doing my first rechargeable setup this weekend.

MC

[Firebird21]

Can you do a recharge port in the switch box?

MC


I had actually thought of that, but what I have for plugs just doesn't fit inside the box.

If anyone knows of a plug setup that would fit in there I'd love to put it on the back side of it!

[xwingband]

Well, I'm doing a funky little project today... I pulled apart and rewired a MR 3AA battery pack to have the 5 pins of a 6AA and a recharge port.

Really a jack is just for looks... and since it isn't really that important I wired a quick connect as the "port". Also any mono/stereo plug would work too. A 3/32" jack is pretty small.

As for other fit issues... Corbin's board will not fit in the ribbed extension as it needs sanding to fit in the normal section. You will probably need to use 4AAA and stack the boards above that.

[james3]

What LED ya puttin in there bud?

[Firebird21]

It's a 3w LED.


Well that stinks about the Driver...

[xwingband]

Why does it stink? Unless you bought the rechargeable pack in anticipation...

You should be fine with 4AAA in the first section then stack the MR with Corbin's in the second. The ribbed extension would remain empty unless you want to try a fifth AAA up there.

It'd be tight but doable.

[Firebird21]

Oh Crap! Apparently you can't charge the Battery Pack threw the resistor... :roll: Der...


I just lost some magic smoke. :cry:

Edit: The reststor got so hot it desoldered it right off! :shock:
What do you need that thing for anyways?


I already got the Pack, but I suppose I could just cram some AAA rechargables in my other Pack and put the new one in my old MHS.

[james3]

Dude, I would say you need to get your sound and battery up in the ribbed section. Do you have both the corbin and the MR boards?

[Firebird21]

Dude, I would say you need to get your sound and battery up in the ribbed section. Do you have both the corbin and the MR boards?

I don't have ether right now. Tim was (is) out of S/B's and I only had so much to spend at one time. But the plan is to have both of them.

[xwingband]

Tim is basically permanently out of soundboards too. MR has stopped selling out returns. That's the story as I've heard it... it's the reason people are srambling to find a solution.

I don't think batteries and sound is going to happen in the ribbed section. In my Qui-gon-ish one I gave up on the AA's and I had a lot more room.

Corbin's will have to be in the center so the batteries either have to get smaller or split up. If you're set on AA's then you could split it at 2 below and 2 up in the ribbed section. Since it is rechargables I'd go for 4AAA's.

[Strydur]

Use a lithium Ion and put it and the recharge port in the ribbed section.

[ryanlb]

Edit: The resistor got so hot it desoldered it right off! :shock:

Wow, that's cool!

[Firebird21]

Oops... I guess I fried the Resistor...


There is no resistance on it. I guess I fused the insides.

BTW: After inspecting the damage I discovered that there was a cut in the wire from a sharp hole on the hilt, so I was basically recharging the resistor with a dead short just before the battery pack.

[987654321a]

lol wow. why not just go with normal battery holders?
oh btw im making a double bladed luke.
oh and also firebird whenever you get the chance post up pics of the finished saber!

[Firebird21]

OK, I've got some good news!


I picked up some plugs at the local Hobby shop. They are for RC planes and cars and such.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke1.jpg


I'm going to install it into the back side of the Activation Box, like so...

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke2.jpg

It's a real tight fit, but I think it will work out very well. I can't wait to get started.

In case you're wondering, they are Futaba "J" plugs.



While I was there I spotted this little gizmo...

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/SwitchBox.jpg

It's an On/Off Switch, Recharge Port, and Battery Level Indicator all in one! And, other than the crappy switch, I think it will make for an awsome activation Box on my Old School MHS.

And that's a little door on it to keep crap out of the recharge port.

Edit: Here's another pic to show the back side and the Door open.
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/SwitchBox1.jpg

[james3]

edit-What the heck is up with my stuff.

Anyway, I like that all in one deal. where ya get that at?

[Firebird21]

I like that all in one deal. where ya get that at?


It's essentially just a glorified version of that other plug, it runs off the same plugs so you only need one charger (or charger adapter).

It was right in there with the rest of the wiring hardware. Check your local good Hobby Shop, they should have all this stuff.

[james3]

[quote=james3]Check your local good Hobby Shop, they should have all this stuff.

KEY to that was good :roll: :wink:

[Firebird21]

Got the Recharge port installed. A bit tricky, but I think it was well worth the effort.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke3.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke4.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke6.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke5.jpg

[james3]

Firebird, ya know I love it. Talk about wishing I had one too!

[987654321a]

im jealous

[GFORCE13]

Me Too that is Beautifully Done, Form and Function in totally syncronicity.
"Impresive most Impresive"

[Madcow]

Sweet work FB,
I start my rechargeable upgrade this weekend.

MC

[Firebird21]

Thank you guys, it's a real moral booster! http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_mel.gif


Talk about wishing I had one too!

Well the port itself costs $6.00. It comes in 2 pieces, (Male "J" Plug, and the Charge Receptacle) and each are $3.00. And the Receptacle comes with a dust cover. Luckily, the charger I got came with the correct adapter (they call it an RX adapter), but unfortunately I broke it, so I have to replace the end on it anyways. No biggy.


Next I have to decide on what I’m going to do for a speaker and sound so I can permanently mount the Pommel. Any ideas?

I was going to wait until Tim got some more MR S/B’s in, but I guess there’s some bad news there. http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_bawl.gif
Do you have anything planned in regards to Sound Boards Tim? Or should I focus on other means?

I was looking forward to the store’s S/B mostly for the fact that the speaker is made for that pommel and there would be much less modifications there. I really don’t want to resort to ebay mostly because I don’t have an ebay account, (a friend of mine does it for me) so I’ll use it as a last resort.

I also don’t want to use a Hasbro S/B on this project because I’m looking for quality, and lets face it, Hasbro ain’t it!

[Mi Gin Gonn]

I also don’t want to use a Hasbro S/B on this project because I’m looking for quality, and lets face it, Hasbro ain’t it!

Boy, you said it, Chewie. My Hasbro in the "Blingsaber" flat-out died in less than a week, and I wasn't even overdriving it.

hmmm...

If Ultra's boards come out when he said they're gonna then we'll all be in luck.

[james3]

There is where life gets frustrating.

I guess we will just have to wait and see what comes soon.

[DACOTA]

Nice job fb that is so cool! You did a professional job,it looks great.What battery did you use :?: I have a nitro R/C and i go to the hobby shop alot so I'm familiar with that stuff.

[Firebird21]

Nice job Firebird, that is so cool! You did a professional job, it looks great!
What battery did you use :?:
I have a Nitro R/C and I go to the hobby shop a lot so I'm familiar with that stuff.


I used Tim’s battery that he supplies in the store.

[james3]

Boy, you said it, Chewie. My Hasbro in the "Blingsaber" flat-out died in less than a week, and I wasn't even overdriving it.

I have found that the only way to keep the Hasbros alive is to run them at 3 volts, wrap them in bubble wrap, and get them in to a fixed position so they do not move at all. One setup I did was to make wood stops for the sound board. They worked out real well and had holes in the center for wire chase since I used my hole saw to make them.

[Firebird21]

Or you could just by-pass the fuse and beat the snot out of it...



That's all I've done to mine and, knock on wood, it's still going.

[xwingband]

Those bugger's do like to go. I have about as many fried as I do working now. :x

[Firebird21]

Well I polished the bottom 2 sections of the hilt tonight. I'll get some photos up as soon as I get back onto my own 'puter.

I still have to paint the Emitter and Ribbed section so I didn't bother polishing them tonight.

[Mi Gin Gonn]

thanks, james3.

as tight as the innards of that whole hilt were, 'tho, i'm surprised the hasbro board had any room to move at all.

i'm gutting the blingsaber this week and re-soldering everything. the lux still works (i've tested it), so i'll try my other soundboard.

[Firebird21]

Here's a quick pic of the polishing before I head off to bed.
This really doesn't do it justice because the flash is exaggerating even the slightest of scratches, so I'll try to get a better one tomorrow in better light.

After...........................Before
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke7.jpg

[987654321a]

hey firebird does it have sound?

[Firebird21]

hey firebird does it have sound?

Oh, Countdown... I expected more from you... http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_shake.gif



Next I have to decide on what I’m going to do for a speaker and sound so I can permanently mount the Pommel. Any ideas?

And no I have not solved this issue yet, and have made only marginal progress. http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sad2.gif

[987654321a]

:lol:

[Firebird21]

Well I brought my saber down to the Powder Coating shop to see if they could do what I wanted to do and how much.

Unfortunately the guy to talk to left for the day just before we arrived, but we spoke with his son and he seemed excited about it and welcomed the challenge. He also thought that his father may do it as a freebee because they're friends with my father. So I'll keep my fingers crossed. :wink:

We’re supposed to go back tomorrow to talk to the father and see what he says.


I also ran it by my father about copper plaiting the Emitter section instead of Copper Powder Coat. He wasn’t too confident that it was going to come out like I want it, (I’m very picky) and it’s not going to be cheap, usually $80 flat rate just to set up the machine, and I don’t want to spend that much plating ¾” of aluminum. But maybe something can be worked out there too. I told him to just slap it on a rack with some other crap, no one would ever know… hehehe

[james3]

Good idea bud. Just another piece in the bin to get done :twisted:

Hope all those deals come together for you.

[Firebird21]

Well i just got back from the P/C shop with some good and bad news.

It's going to end up being about $100 for all 3 colors. (Black, Copper, and Clear) As much as that is it's still pretty good for 3 colors. (well that's what I'll keep telling myself)

So this little project is starting to really add up! :cry:


Any idea what I could sell this puppy for? I may just have to make another to sell and try to offset the cost of this one. :roll:


It's a labor of Love. And I could do it much cheaper if I wanted to, but this is going to me my centerpiece. Yes, yet another "Trailer Queen". I want something to be proud of, not somthing I just put together a fast and cheaply as possible. That's what childhood was for.

[Madcow]

Dude, I know the feeling. I could stare at my sabers on display for hours... come to think of it, I do...
I need to get out more.
Anyways, I figure that sweet saber of yourn, done up without sound could fetch $200 on ebay. Look at "custom sabers" on ebay, watch a few and see what they're going for.

MC

[james3]

Firebird, if that is to be your main piece then pretend like you have no idea how much it is going to cost in the end.

Trust me on that one. :wink:

[supertrogdor]

best case scenario, Firebird, just don't add up your order totals from Tim... It catches one off guard at how much the hobby runs. Best to not think about the cost, just about how much fun it is to build and play with ones sabers.

[xwingband]

Firebird, if that is to be your main piece then pretend like you have no idea how much it is going to cost in the end.

Trust me on that one. :wink:

Amen! Or keep getting stuff until it's too hard to remember everything. :wink:

[Firebird21]

I'm just glad I can spread out the cost as far as I want.. err... need to. :wink:

[Firebird21]

I dropped off the Ribbed Section and the Emitter at the shop for Powder Coating.


Unfortunately I won't get it back till Monday or Tuesday http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_grr.gif

And I've got to do this twice... :roll:


Well, all good things are worth waiting for I guess...

[supertrogdor]

Ahhhhhhhh Firebird, we have all been there on the anticipation front... hopefully your weeks wait will be shorter than anticipated and this week will fly for you
If not... i feel your pain and empathize
cheers

[james3]

If it makes you feel better, as you know I got my Jedi costume last year, just got the boots last month, and it will be who knows when on the belt.

It sucks but like SuperT said, Good things worth waitin for and all. :wink:

[Firebird21]

I got the parts back from the PC shop.


There are some issues...

1. They weren't able to Clear the bare polished aluminum. I guess it did some less than spectacular things and they had to strip it.

2. There's metallic flake in the black.

3. They polished the ribs. And polished the black off the first rib... Not thrilled about that.

4. The copper is not that defined. You can see the aluminum under it.

5. It took a week.

I'm not quite sure how much of a stink I'm going to make of it yet, but since they are charging me $80 for the job, (that I found out after picking up the parts) I may discuss these issues with the owner when I see him.

I probably should not discuss this too much until the matter is resoved. Please don't take this as bashing the company. These are just things I feel should be addressed with them.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke10.jpghttp://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke11.jpg

[jjshumpert]

looks great, but did they goof? looks more gold than copper... maybe a burnt amber would get closer to the color your looking for, would at least match your activation box

[james3]

It doesnt read as a bash. It reads as a) They could have done a little better job and b) It would have been nice to have the price up front. I admit ignorance on the subject but it would seem high. Since it is somewhat to your field I guess you have a better judge on that.

With that said, it don't look bad. From talkin with ya I know it is not what your lookin for and so it should be addressed but if I were doing a non movie accurate Luke, that looks pretty cool.

[Firebird21]

I'm a perfectionist. I'm spending a lot of time and money to get this as close as possible. The little things bug the living snitz out of me. :evil:

(Ok, I was writing a rant and thought better of it. At least until the matter is resolved.)

[supertrogdor]

It is looking mighty fine Firebird, you should be proud of the progress. I understand about the perfectionist thing, however and hope you can resolve things peaceably.

[987654321a]

i agree with super, however the copper does look kinda....ehhhhhh.. you know. the ribbed section is awesome though.

[xwingband]

If you're going exact... don't settle. IMO the "copper" does seem weak and way too much of a gold.

[DACOTA]

I'm a perfectionist. I'm spending a lot of time and money to get this as close as possible. The little things bug the living snitz out of me. :evil:

I am exactly the same way.If you paid $80,I would certainly make them fix it,thats thier job and they should do it right!I cant wait till I make my own luke replica, i've been thinking about it for months but I cant right now,anyways besides the few mesups it looks great,you did a very good job!It looks :shock:.

[Firebird21]

I brought it back today and they are going to fix it.

There's not much I can do about the copper with out it costing me boco-bucks. I picked out the color myself, so I have only myself to blame. The do have a real copper looking PC, but it's $60/lb vs $12 for what's on there.


I may get it back on Fri. We'll see how it comes out.

[Ryma Mara]

I thik it looks pritty damn good.

If it was me in your shoes I would of been happy.

[Firebird21]

Well I got it back today. The guy said it was the hardest thing he's ever tried to PC. :D

I have to bring a piece of my other saber to him so he can experiment with the clear first. If that works out, then he's going to clear the whole thing for me.


http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke12.jpghttp://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke13.jpg


Side by side... Before and After.
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke10.jpghttp://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke12.jpg

Please excuse my finger prints... I'd take another pic but the battery in the camera died.

[Jedi-Loreen]

That looks a lot better FB. :D

[Firebird21]

Thanks J-Lo.


I still have some work to do on it. Mostly just polishing.

[Lord Maul]

hot DANG that thing looks good :shock:
those people did a great job fixing up the copper for ya firebird

[DACOTA]

:shock: Very nice.I like it much more. :D :D :D :D Its very 8)

[james3]

Well buddy, my two sides say...

Looks fantastic! They did a fair job of getting it done right for ya the second time. That looks more like a nice movie hilt. Of course I love it.


There was something pretty dang cool looking with their F-up though. More of a custom looks like it has been used alot, battle saber type of thing.


I have to admit, I would want one of each :roll:

[Do-Clo]

Very nice looking saber firebird :shock: :) 8)

[Firebird21]

Thanks guys...


Wait until I polish it. :twisted:

[Powered Convoy]

Looks awesome. The color adds a lot to it.

Randy

[Meridian]

Hey there
Nice Saber 8)

Do you have the futaba part numbers for the recharge ports :wink:

[Firebird21]

Do you have the futaba part numbers for the recharge ports :wink:


Not off the top of my head, but here's a good place to look for them... :wink:


http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-3.html

Thats a great looking hilt Firebird. I'm working on a MHS Obi-Wan and I can only hope it looks half as good as your Luke.

[Firebird21]

Thanks Fisto.

Now that the Holidays are over I should be able to finnish this thing up.

[Meridian]

Do you have the futaba part numbers for the recharge ports :wink:


Not off the top of my head, but here's a good place to look for them... :wink:


http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-3.html

Thanks 8)

[DACOTA]

You just got the Sanyo 2500mAh 4AA NiMH battery pack,right FB?

[Firebird21]

Yup.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/656.jpg (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-656-6-sanyo-2500mah-4aa-nimh-battery-pack.aspx)

[Firebird21]

Progress! Yay!


Thanks very much to Tim for custom making a pommel/adapter for me to better attach the MR Luke Pommel to the Hilt and to get that slight reduction in the hilt before the pommel.

Here's some pics. (They arn't that great because I'm too lazy to get the other camera.)

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke15.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke16.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke14.jpg

It also holds the speaker assembly in place and I will be using a set screw to hold the Pommel onto the adapter.

I also now have sound for it.

All that's left now is to borrow someone's soldering iron (mine crapped out on me) so I can finish wiring it, then finish polishing it. And maybe bring it back for the clear powder coating.

All the wiring will be done using the “J” plugs I used for the recharge port. That way I can interchange all the electronics without having to cut wires.

[vortextwist]

I hope Tim stocks some of those

[Lord Maul]

yeah, those things are sweet. i was wondering when you would finally get some work done on that baby :D

[elrond.406]

Progress! Yay!


Thanks very much to Tim for custom making a pommel/adapter for me to better attach the MR Luke Pommel to the Hilt and to get that slight reduction in the hilt before the pommel.

Here's some pics. (They arn't that great because I'm too lazy to get the other camera.)

[img]http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke15.jpg
[img]http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke16.jpg
[img]http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke14.jpg

It also holds the speaker assembly in place and I will be using a set screw to hold the Pommel onto the adapter.

I also now have sound for it.

All that's left now is to borrow someone's soldering iron (mine crapped out on me) so I can finish wiring it, then finish polishing it. And maybe bring it back for the clear powder coating.

All the wiring will be done using the “J” plugs I used for the recharge port. That way I can interchange all the electronics without having to cut wires.

I'll bet those things would really sell on the store! 8)

[Firebird21]

Thanks guys. Glad you like the setup.

Well it's all wired up! I may still cut some of the wires down, but only if they get in the way. Keeping them long gives me room to work, and there's plenty of room in there for them.

Here's an exploded view.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke17.JPG

Mostly Futaba's "J" plugs, however; I did use Tim's Quick connect for the LED and a "BEC" plug for the speaker. I was looking for something other than the J-plug for the speaker and that was on the rack next to them. So I used it.

You need a "Key" to use it. It plugs into the recharge port. Unfortunately I don't have a Key made for it yet. For the moment I'm just using 2 DIY J-plug inserts. Not very aesthetically pleasing and you could actually cut yourself on it. But at least I can use it.

The key just completes the ground cuircit for the sound board. There are 3 wires in the J-plugs. In the recharge port only 2 are used, so I put the ground wire from the S/B in the 3rd slot. Now there's no charging with the S/B hooked up, and I now have a master switch to save the batteries without further disturbing the look. :D

Edit: Here's a pic of the make-shift key...

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke20.JPG


Not that you can see it very well in the pic but it is polished.

Man, thats the best job of wiring that I've seen yet. Just awesome.

[Firebird21]

Man, that the best job of wiring that I've seen yet. Just awesome.


Thanks! http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_blush.gif

Just don't let Do-Clo see my solder joints... :wink:

If he saw mine I'd probably get slapped....... :oops:

[Lord Maul]

great work FB, now i want a pic of it all together and on :P

[DACOTA]

WoW! I love it! Could I use Tims quick change connector for making the parts such as:batt pack,switch,and sound module detatchable?

[Firebird21]

WoW! I love it! Except for the recharge port,I could use Tims quick change connector for making all the other parts such as:batt pack,switch,and sound module detatchable,right?


Are you saying you don't like the recharge port or that you can't use the Quck Connect for it?



Here's it assembled.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke18.JPG


It could stand to be polished a little more, but that pic makes it look worse than it really is.

Hey Firebird, in response to what you said the other night in the Cantina.......I think it was worth the money. It looks great.

[DACOTA]

Are you saying you don't like the recharge port or that you can't use the Quck Connect for it?
No.Its a backwards question.I love the recharge port,I asked the last part first then went into the question.But now can I have an answer?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

That looks great! I especially like the wiring job, with the "plug-n-play" aspect, it should make upgrading or changing something a snap!

[Firebird21]

Thanks guys.


And yes DACOTA, you can use any kind of plug for this type of setup. So Tim's would work just fine unless you needed more than 2 wires in the plug, as I did.

I don't think I'll build another saber without these plugs, and I'm rewiring my old MHS saber with them right now. That's why I asked Tim to stock them. The DIY plugs are awsome! You have to be carefull crimping them because they need to be perfectly straight and no wider than the plug hole, but once you get the hang of it they are indespensable!

Think of it as a Modular Wireing system! lol

In case anyone's looking for these parts, the part #'s are:
Female "J" kit: MPI MAXX Order No. 4122
Male "J" kit: MPI MAXX Order No. 4100
12" "J" Extension: MPI MAXX Order No. 3140
Speaker plugs "BEC": MPI MAXX Order No. 2832 & 2830
Y-Adapter: MPI MAXX Order No. 2160

[LordArgyll]

J-pin plugs are awesome for saber wiring. I scavenged a bunch of them out of a couple of dead PCs for use in my saber. Instead of buying a fancy DIY kit though I just picked up a PBC-mount 10-pin IDC and hacked it up to make a wiring harness. Since all my switches and stuff are in the foregrip and the guts in the lower part, it makes it easy to disconnect it all to access the electronics without having to mess with taking the switches out of their mount holes.

[Firebird21]

...it makes it easy to disconnect it all to access the electronics without having to mess with taking the switches out of their mount holes.


Exactly!


And say you want a certain saber to have a Sith board in it, but you installed a Jedi board already...


Just unplug it and swap'em! Just as if it were an LED. That's provided you wire all your sabers the same way... You really should sit down and really think about the best way to wire your saber. It's just as, if not more important than the saber its self.


Edit:
More pics!
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke19.JPG
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Luke21.JPG

[Lord Maul]

dang, that first pic with it on looked just like the MR. then i realized it was yours :D
great work firebird 8) 8) 8)

Maul, I think you should have said "dang, that first pic with it on looked just like the MR. then i realized it wasn't a piece of crap"......... haha. Just kiddin'. I like the MR stuff for the most part. Again, great job on the saber Firebird.

[Lord Maul]

the only thing really different is the space beetween the switch box and the pommel. i like it better that way though cause it gives you more room to grab on :D

[Firebird21]

It also helps the balance.


The center of gravity with Tim's blade is 1 inch from the emitter on the blade. If, for some dumb reason, I wanted to use an MR blade it would be about 1 inch into the hilt. Not too bad for not planning it. :mrgreen:

[vortextwist]

hey FB what is the length of that adapter for your pommel?

[Jonitus]

Firebird, I wanted to ask you:

Do you have the MR board mounted on top of your battery pack? If so, how do you get it to fit inside the MHS section? I have a AA NiMH pack, and it won't go in the MHS section with the MR board mounted on top. I hate to have to sacrifice more room mounting it someplace else, but I was wondering ow you solved the dilemma. Is that pack smaller than a standard AA 2+2 pack?

[xwingband]

It's not an MR board ( :wink: ) ... and the whole board isn't over the battery pack. It's sitting on it like a ledge. With the pommel adapter you can see it just fits there.

[Firebird21]

hey FB what is the length of that adapter for your pommel?


The overall length of this setup is 1-5/16" not including the threads. That's when screwed in.

[vortextwist]

cool thanks, FB

[kinchar bamin]

that luke rotj looks damn guid :D if you tell me how to post pictures i will send in pics of my luke rotj so we can compare the MR one to the custom made 1.

[xwingband]

We all can find pics of the MR luke... it's not like they're a super exclusive that only 10 in the world own. :roll:

I also told you to look in the FAQ... or even searching would yield the topic on pictures that came up in the first weeks of the forum. :evil:

[Firebird21]

that luke rotj looks damn guid :D if you tell me how to post pictures i will send in pics of my luke rotj so we can compare the MR one to the custom made 1.

Thanks!

I can tell you all that's inaccurate about it...

1. Not enough ribs.
2. Ribs are too fat.
3. Recessed groves are not supposed to be "V" shaped.
4. The diameter is small.
5. It's too long.
6. There's no ring behind the Activation Box.
7. The Pommel is not proportionate to the body.
8. The color of the emitter is wrong.
9. The emitter is incorrect (Tim has a more accurate one, but I like this one better)
10. It has a Recharge Port.
11. The silver ring between the Ribbed section and the Emitter isn't big enough and it's on the part. (It's on the emitter not the Ribbed section)
12. It has a movie accurate ignition.

And that's just comparing it to the MR version... But this is about as accurate as the MHS parts will get (excluding he emitter) and maybe closer than Tim might like. (But there's 12 reasons to tell the man to GFY :wink: )

But this is my pride and joy. Very expensive project that took a lot longer than I expected, but I now have a scratch built saber that I can be proud of and I am very pleased with how it turned out.


Edit: And by "the man" I don't mean Tim. If you don't know who I'm talking about don't worry about it.

[kinchar bamin]

I would find bigger ribs better than the MR fx ones because on the MR saber, the ribs hurt my hands if I hold it long enough and the activation box takes up most of the space on the hilt where you need 2 grip it so a longer hilt would be more efficient. infact, your hilt seems 2 be more efficient than the MR. is the blade detatchable?

[Firebird21]

I find this very comfortable to handle. And the added space at the pommel makes it easier to handle for both balance and hand grip area.

The biggest problem I have right now is that "Key". I havn't gotten around to making a good one yet so that contraption in the pics is what I'm still using and it can cut you if you're not carefull.

Yes the blade is detachable.

[kinchar bamin]

cool

[Lord Maul]

that luke rotj looks damn guid :D if you tell me how to post pictures i will send in pics of my luke rotj so we can compare the MR one to the custom made 1.

i already told ya how to post pics kinchar :evil:
and xwing told you how to as well :evil:

[elrond.406]

that luke rotj looks damn guid Very Happy if you tell me how to post pictures i will send in pics of my luke rotj so we can compare the MR one to the custom made 1.

Bad Slang! And really! Read the FAQ before asking how to do a basic something before asking how like a gazillion times!!! :evil: :evil:

(By "my luke rotj", do you mean an MR? ::sigh:: :roll: )

I am getting pissed by this guy/girl...

[Angelus Lupus]

maul and elrond getting annoyed? I've not been here that long, but even I know that's not a good sign. :)


Damn, I just realised this could be considered off-topic postwhoring... wont do it again.

[elrond.406]

maul and elrond getting annoyed? I've not been here that long, but even I know that's not a good sign. :)

:twisted:


Damn, I just realised this could be considered off-topic postwhoring... wont do it again.

Not really...

[LordArgyll]

Mmm... irony...

[DACOTA]

WoW!!! :!: Oh my gosh that hilt is pure Gold,absolutely 100% pure gold!
Awsome job Fb,that saber rocks even with the things that are not accurate.

[Ambo]

WoW!!! :!: Oh my gosh that hilt is pure Gold,absolutely 100% pure gold!
Awsome job Fb,that saber rocks even with the things that are not accurate.

That almost sounds like a sugar coated turd......

[Firebird21]

Thanks DACOTA.



I think.... lol

[Ambo]

WoW!!! :!: Oh my gosh that hilt is pure Gold,absolutely 100% pure gold!
Awsome job Fb,that saber rocks even with the things that are not accurate.

Translation:WoW!!! :!: Oh my gosh that hilt is pure Gold,absolutely 100% pure gold!
Awsome job Fb,that saber rocks even if you cant build an accurate saber.


Im messin with ya Dacota....

[Firebird21]

I think he was refering to this quote...




that luke rotj looks damn guid :D if you tell me how to post pictures i will send in pics of my luke rotj so we can compare the MR one to the custom made 1.

Thanks!

I can tell you all that's inaccurate about it...

1. Not enough ribs.
2. Ribs are too fat.
3. Recessed groves are not supposed to be "V" shaped.
4. The diameter is small.
5. It's too long.
6. There's no ring behind the Activation Box.
7. The Pommel is not proportionate to the body.
8. The color of the emitter is wrong.
9. The emitter is incorrect (Tim has a more accurate one, but I like this one better)
10. It has a Recharge Port.
11. The silver ring between the Ribbed section and the Emitter isn't big enough and it's on the part. (It's on the emitter not the Ribbed section)
12. It has a movie accurate ignition.

...


Not too worried. :mrgreen:

[Ambo]

yeah i know...just wanted to mess with D.....

D...i know u had the best of intentions...i just havn't ribbed ya in a while....no hurt feelings?

[DACOTA]

:lol: :lol: :lol: Oh no that was way too funny,thanks.

[Firebird21]

So, after 10 years it’s time to go through and upgrade this thing. The MR switch has had it, so I’m going to upgrade that to the (newer) one sold here. It’ll need to be completely rewired and the old NiCad is TOAST!

Speaking of toast, I don’t know what to do with the old school Erv’s Buttered Toast board. I just grabbed the v.9 and I’m blown away by the difference. Nice upgrades, Erv! I was intending on using the new one for a new saber, but now I’m not sure if I should use it in this saber instead. If so, what do I do with the old one? I think I’d rather keep it with the saber, but what Lithium battery is appropriate for it? Is there a holder for it and the new battery combo? I’m having trouble finding specks on both the battery and the board. I will continue to search tonight. I was just hoping someone knew where, in the last decade of posts, right where the info is.

I noticed none of my photo links work anymore, so I’ll try to post them again later for those of you who weren’t here 10 years ago for the build.

[erv]

Hey Firebird21 ! long time !
yeah, CFv9 and now CFX (v10) since a couple of month, time flies, still there, growing grey hair ;-)
Not in this place anymore as I do all the support on fx-sabers forums but I miss the place and the ERA !
Some memories from 2007 for you guys :-)

https://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Divers/SaberMeeting1.jpg