A newbie asking some questions!

[TheDarkPhoenix]

Hey guys, I have a few favours to ask you. First, a little bit about me..
My name is Matthew and I have been a long time Star Wars fan. I'm looking into a lightsaber that has all the bells and whistles (full sound, lights, recharge port, LED momentary switches) and I was hoping you could double check my parts list to make sure i have everything i need to start building. This will be a lightsaber that when built will be dueling with other custom sabers in the future. I am new to the wiring and electronics scene but i am in the middle of my first semester as an electrical engineer so the concepts are not entirely foreign to me, just a little advanced.

9783

Above is the image of what i would like the saber to look like. I know it's not very original but I want to make sure it will look good and I can wire a lightsaber up completely before i venture out and make more sabers. I would like some tips on how to make the activation box work properly as well, I'm not entirely sure of how the switch and the box work together. Here is the parts list:

MPS Pommel style 3 v2 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Pommel-style-3-v2-P90.aspx)
4" Double female threaded connector (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4-Double-female-threaded-connector--P123.aspx)
Ribbed grooved / Choke Combo (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ribbed-grooved-Choke-Combo-P524.aspx)
Screw on LED blade holder style 12 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Screw-on-LED-blade-holder-style-12-P294.aspx)
Activation box style 12 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-12-P690.aspx)
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (Green) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx)
Machined button for Covertec clip (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machined-button-for-Covertec-clip-P161.aspx)
16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Green Ring Switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Short-Momentary-Green-Ring-Switch-P585.aspx)
MWS Recharge Port (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Recharge-Port-P877.aspx)
LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (40'' Clear Bullet Shaped) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-TCSS-style-Battle-blade-1-OD--P155.aspx)
Petit Crouton Sound Module V3 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Petit-Crouton-Sound-Module-V3-P893.aspx)
Premium 28mm Speaker (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-28mm-Speaker-P77.aspx)
MHS speaker mount V3 - For 28mm Speakers (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V3-For-28mm-Speakers-P358.aspx)
Activation box style 12 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-12-P690.aspx)
Black momentary switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Black-momentary-switch-P558.aspx)
USB to 3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ cable (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/USB-to-35mm-RICE-cable-P656.aspx)
3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ Port Style 2 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/35mm-RICE-Port-Style-2-P659.aspx)

Which batteries and battery holders would I need to purchase? I live in Australia so I'll have to source the Li-ion Packs locally.
I think I've also left out a blade retention screw and other small things like that. I am intending to have TCSS service the saber with a drill and tap hole and the Recharge port hole service. Will I need the Machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole service if I am, using the activation box?

I'm sure there are questions I still haven't asked, thank you in advance for reading through this post and for all your advice! :grin:

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

First off, Welcome to the Forums.

The AV switch and the box you selected don't really work together. That box is typically used with small momentary switches and involve a lot of "creativity" for whatever switch solution you decide to try in it. I also do not see a second momentary switch in your list which would be useful to take advantage of all of the sound card features.

You may want to consider scrapping that particular box, and getting a different one that also accommodates the second momentary switch, AND the recharge port. With those boxes, you just order the matching hole service and you would be set.

Regarding the batteries, You don't seem to have a whole lot of room so a 2x14500 Li-ion pack would likely be your best bet.

[TheDarkPhoenix]

OK, thanks for that! I've updated my parts list above to include some suggestions. I've added the Activation box style 12 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-12-P690.aspx), the Black momentary switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Black-momentary-switch-P558.aspx), USB to 3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ cable (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/USB-to-35mm-RICE-cable-P656.aspx), 3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ Port Style 2 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/35mm-RICE-Port-Style-2-P659.aspx).

What does rice do? Does it enable me to make changes to the sounds without taking out the SD card?
Would this battery (http://www.batteryspace.com/li-ion14500battery74v750mah555whwithpcb.aspx) work? How about two of these batteries (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SB2305&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=997#3) in a holder?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK, thanks for that! I've updated my parts list above to include some suggestions. I've added the Activation box style 12 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-12-P690.aspx), the Black momentary switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Black-momentary-switch-P558.aspx), USB to 3.5mm R.I.C.E.? cable (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/USB-to-35mm-RICE-cable-P656.aspx), 3.5mm R.I.C.E.? Port Style 2 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/35mm-RICE-Port-Style-2-P659.aspx).

What does rice do? Does it enable me to make changes to the sounds without taking out the SD card?

It will allow you to make configuration changes only, but not change sound fonts. To change sound fonts, you still need to remove the SD card, reformat it (after saving the original contents), and then reloading it.

Hmmm, with that box, things may get very tight for you in that hilt. You would likely have to put the PC in the ribbed section and then hope the battery pack will fit underneath the switch and other ports.

[TheDarkPhoenix]

Would the PC move around in the ribbed section, would I have to secure it somehow? Would it be easer if the extension was 5'' instead of 4''?
What if i used the Activation box style 14 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-14-P688.aspx) instead? I would change the second switch to another av switch right?

Would I need a tri-rebel luxeon LED to make the blade different colours on clash and stuff like that?
Where would I install the kill key?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Would the PC move around in the ribbed section, would I have to secure it somehow? Would it be easer if the extension was 5'' instead of 4''?
What if i used the Activation box style 14 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-14-P688.aspx) instead? I would change the second switch to another av switch right?

Would I need a tri-rebel luxeon LED to make the blade different colours on clash and stuff like that?
Where would I install the kill key?

You would need to secure everything somehow. A 5" extension would make things easier. You could use that box, though I personally am not a huge fan of that box.

Yes, you would need something like a Tri-Rebel to make the blade different colors, and stuff like that.

The Kill let get plugged into the recharge port when the saber is not being used.

[TheDarkPhoenix]

Ok, I've taken a couple of days to really hash this out, update my design, look at other build logs, ask Tim a few questions and really understand how this is all going to fit together.

This is the updated design:

9829
9830

This is the updated parts list:

Pommel Section:
MPS Pommel style 3 v1 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Pommel-style-3-v1-P502.aspx)
MHS speaker mount V5 - For 28mm Speakers (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V5-For-28mm-Speakers-P887.aspx)
Premium 28mm Speaker (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-28mm-Speaker-P77.aspx)
MPS insert style 13 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-insert-style-13-P732.aspx)
3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ Port Style 1 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/35mm-RICE-Port-Style-1-P658.aspx)
2.1mm Power Jack (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-Power-Jack-P37.aspx)
MPS Clip (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx)
Kill plug style 5 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Kill-plug-style-5-P808.aspx)

Grip Extension Section:
4" Double Female Grooved (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4-Double-Female-Grooved-P454.aspx)
Machined button for Covertec clip (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machined-button-for-Covertec-clip-P161.aspx)
8-32 x 1/4" socket head (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-14-socket-head-P107.aspx)
Petit Crouton Sound Module V3 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Petit-Crouton-Sound-Module-V3-P893.aspx)
Stainless 4-40 all thread (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Stainless-4-40-all-thread-P770.aspx)
Stainless Steel 4-40 Hex nut (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Stainless-Steel-4-40-Hex-nut-P603.aspx)
Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 14500 side by side pack - S5 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-PC-20-and-14500-side-by-side-pack-S5-P774.aspx)
2AA Battery holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2AA-Battery-holder-P348.aspx)
2x Protected Sanyo / Panasonic UR14500P 800mAh 3.7V Rechargeable Lithium battery (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Protected-Sanyo-Panasonic-UR14500P-800mAh-3-7V-Rechargeable-Lithium-battery-/280880529849?pt=AU_Electronics_Batteries_Chargers&hash=item4165c8c1b9&_uhb=1) (I live in Australia)
Chassis Disc style 4 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Chassis-Disc-style-4-P793.aspx)

Ribbed Extension Section:
MHS ribbed extension v-grooved (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-ribbed-extension-v-grooved-P252.aspx)
Activation box style 3 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-3-P356.aspx)
Box 2,3,5,6 Mounting holes service (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Box-2356-Mounting-holes-service-P572.aspx)
MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Nickel (Green Dot)
MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Nickel (Green Ring) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Short-Momentary-16mm-AV-Switch-Nickel-P878.aspx)
2X JST female connectors with shared ground (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2X-JST-female-connectors-with-shared-ground-P824.aspx)
JST connectors (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JST-connectors-P360.aspx)
MHS Sleeve material (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-Sleeve-material-P468.aspx)
Red LED indicator (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-LED-indicator-P113.aspx)
Yellow LED indicator (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Yellow-LED-indicator-P496.aspx)
Green LED indicator (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Green-LED-indicator-P495.aspx)

Blade Emitter Section:
Screw on LED blade holder style 20 with MHS "new style" Heat Sink V3 (Tri-Rebels) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Screw-on-LED-blade-holder-style-20-new-style-P633.aspx)
Set of 4 short Graflex style electrical pins (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Set-of-4-short-Graflex-style-electrical-pins--P87.aspx)
Graflex Red Button Replica Thumbscrew (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Graflex-Red-Button-Replica-Thumbscrew-P68.aspx)
Graflex Glass Eye Replica Thumbscrew (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Graflex-Glass-Eye-Replica-Thumbscrew-P131.aspx)
8-32 x 5/16" thumbscrew (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-516-thumb-screw--P73.aspx)
Drill & Tap Hole (for the 8-32 x 5/16" thumbscrew and the LED Indicators) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Drill-Tap-Hole-P193.aspx)
Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (RBlue, Red, Green) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Tri-Rebel-Star-P777.aspx)
Luxeon 18deg Tri-Rebel Star Lens (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-18deg-Tri-Rebel-Star-Lens-P778.aspx)
Star thermal tape pad (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx)
LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (38in, Clear Bullet Shaped tip) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-TCSS-style-Battle-blade-1-OD--P155.aspx)
1" Hilt safety plug (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-Hilt-safety-plug-P571.aspx)

And these are my next questions:

For the Accent LED's, is the 20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/20mA-DynaOhm-Variable-Resistor-P847.aspx) a good option? The problem with the DynaOhm is that the yellow and green LEDs need more current than it can put out. I have worked out the resistor values for the green(44 ohms), yellow(40 Ohm) and red(65 ohms). The resistor I would get if i didn't use the variable one is the 82ohm 1/4w resistor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/82ohm-14w-resistor-P23.aspx) but there are no lower values with in that range unless is used two 150 Ohm or 82 Ohm resistors in parallel.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, first off, the Accents on the board only put out 20mAh, so that's the current you get. You would likely be better off with the individual resistors. You could try to source them in an electronics shop locally in Australia.

My bigger concern for you is the design itself - you are going to have a lot of wires (by my count 14) in a very small space, and that space will be small, and also you have to think about HOW you're going to secure those LEDs and not interfere with the switches and other stuff you have in the control box.

[TheDarkPhoenix]

Well, first off, the Accents on the board only put out 20mAh, so that's the current you get. You would likely be better off with the individual resistors. You could try to source them in an electronics shop locally in Australia.

My bigger concern for you is the design itself - you are going to have a lot of wires (by my count 14) in a very small space, and that space will be small, and also you have to think about HOW you're going to secure those LEDs and not interfere with the switches and other stuff you have in the control box.

Thanks!

How would you mount them? Could you link me to a lightsaber that has the LEDs mounted? What if I just didn't include the LEDs?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Thanks!

How would you mount them? Could you link me to a lightsaber that has the LEDs mounted? What if I just didn't include the LEDs?

It's not a question of how as much as it is where you have them. What you *could* do is either use a box #2 and maybe have Tim modify the recharge port to house one LED, OR you could mount 1 LED in line with the switches farther down (closer to the pommel).

What you wanted to do is fairly difficult, I know because I've done something similar, with handmade "one-off" stuff. It was tight and pretty difficult. You can look up my Illustrious build and check it out.

Otherwise you would just have to go through the gallery, which could take you a few weeks.

[TheDarkPhoenix]

Ok, I've emailed Tim about the custom activation box. Just another quick question,.. The batteries I've listed above, do they need a PCB? On the ebay page, it says they are protected but i'm not quite sure. If I get this smart charger (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74V-Li-ion-smart-charger-with-21mm-plug-P891.aspx) will I need to worry about it?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

If they are "protected" then the PCB is already in place. External PCB's are for "unprotected" cells.

[TheDarkPhoenix]

Ok, so Tim said that if I screw down the shroud with the Graflex screws then it should work. I think I'm ready to start purchasing, any last bit of advice?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Not really, just be prepared. This is an expensive and addictive hobby. ;)