Checking in and saying "Hi"

[philittlewood]

Been lurking around the forums for what seems like way to long slowly trying to collect the parts and pieces I need/want for my first saber build. So I finally decided to make a post and introduce myself and try to obtain advice on what I should do. Like I said I have been reading the forums for over a year now and they have been more than helpful in how I want to do things in my first (and hopefully not my last) lightsaber. I do have a few questions on things that I am unsure or don't completely understand, but I am trying to find the right threads and topics to figure it out for myself. I'm wicked excited to actually get started and bring my ideas on what I want to an actuality. Thank you in advance for your time and patience and I truly hope I don't abuse or waste it.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums! We'll be happy to clarify things for you once you get started.

[dgdve]

Welcome!!

I guess the best way to start for you since you've spent some time lurking would be to go ahead and post any renders or mhs builder templates you may be thinking about. By doing this you can gather feedback or criticism in regards to your planned layout, which can be immensely helpful, timesaving, life saving, as well as save you some money frustration's down the road. (forget your resistor.. blow your LED.. so you end up eating a $20 LED because of something so minor as a 0.50 resistor)

That's why I suggest throwing your idea's, sketches, and checklists out there for a quick double check by the wonderful TCSS membership (and mod staff). They've never let me down so I know they wont let you down!

Again, Welcome!

[philittlewood]

Thank you ahead of time for all the help I know will be given. I have collected a few parts over time and honestly since I started a few things have changed. I had always planned on using the Petit Crouton, when I started it was the v2 now its the v3 so yay for upgrades! I must of read the manual for the v2 at least 3-4 times tryng to learn everything I can about wiring it into my lightsaber. Now with the v3 I've read it of course as well I think I understand most of it, but you know what the say when you think you understand something you might not understand it at all.

I have a few wiring diagrams drawn up, unfortunately they are still on paper and not digital yet, but I plan on getting those online soon so I can make sure everything is right. I've been trying to go off of a few out of the P.C. manual and others that other members have posted in the forums so i'm 90% sure I'm ok.

Honestly the hardest part i'm having is trying to figure out what my lightsaber should look like. It's supposed to personify you someone should be able to look at your lightsaber and know that's yours. (At least in my opinion.) I have always had it in my mind that my lightsaber would be a double with a quick release in the middle to enable a duel wielding ability. Obviously that's a little expensive, but in the end it's what I would like to do. I saw in one of the posts that their was at on time a quick release adapter is that still available at all? Designing the hilt has been a nightmare for me everytime I think I like how it looks I just shake my head and delete it not liking what I've done. Finally after the umpteenth time I came up with this and I Like it:

9648

My idea for the electronics is for the battery speaker and soundboard to be in the fluted part of the handle while the top part is reserved for the switches and electronic ports. I'd like to add a crystal chamber too, but i'm willing to accept the idea not being possible at this time.

For switches I have a 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch, 16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch, 2.1mm Power Jack and a 3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ Port Style 1

My first idea was to have all of them placed in the activation box 14, but after thinking about it over and over I didn't like that. Now I have the thought of putting the main switches "on top" with the number 18 box and putting the two ports 90 degrees to either side with box 15. I know that the latching switch is very long and i'm aware the the switches and ports might come in contact inside any suggestion on where would be a better location? I'm trying to keep the fluted area free of anything getting screwed into it so I can easily get inside of the hilt.

For the LED I'm planning on using a G/G/W Tri-Rebel. I think, for most part, from what I have read I think I understand the wiring I want to use for that. (Though what guage of wire I should use I'm not to sure about.) Once again I'll post the diagram when I get the chance to draw it digitally.

As of right now that's all I got. No huge problems and probably with a little more digging I can find everything I need. I just figured I'd put out there what I have. Questions, comments, statements, hugs and violent outbursts are always welcome. Thanks again!

[dgdve]

I like that design you've come up with! (great eye!) Its going to look great with some paint and a mega bright GGW

Your correct the quick release (as far as I remember) was never released to the public.. I could be wrong as it was awhile ago.. so don't quote me

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As far as chassis I suggest this TCSS chassis disc set (to help you save space)

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-PC-20-and-14500-side-by-side-pack-S5-P774.aspx

+

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V4-P661.aspx

As for the switches/ports I agree you've most likely run out of space but don't let that hold your design back OR force you to make it any longer then it should be.. With Tim/Tcss you have alternatives and that's the true beauty of the MHS system exposed.. (blah blah)

My standard suggestion would be to use a shorter box and mount the recharge in the pommel, BUT.. I'm assuming you want to eventually use a coupler to have a dual saber? (So that wont work in this case)

So to keep all the ports & switches in the forward section you could maybe ditch your AV switches altogether for something much more flush mounted and still use a box for the ports? And to break up the flat lines of the saber (like you suggested, could look really cool as well)

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-double-tactile-switch-ring-P897.aspx

+

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-15-P694.aspx


This keeps all your switches and ports all confined to the same space on the forward section of both sabers and allows the use of a center coupler without potential incident to any your wiring at all (as well as saves some needed space wires and for the other x6 wiring that goes up to the main Tri Rebel LED).. And you can alternately switch them back to pommels and dual wield just as quickly (and safely on your wiring) ;)

Just a suggestion that would still allow you the use of 1 box for aesthetic purposes (and yeah a sweet saber if Ive ever seen one!)

[philittlewood]

Thank you Dgdve for the feedback it is very much appreciated!

To bad about the quick release I was really excited about it.

The suggestions you gave me for the chassis is exactly what I had planned so thank you for confirming that it can work. The only question I have with it are all the wires going to that area around the PC board it already looks tight, how tight is that combination going to become when the wiring is placed (shoved :confused:) in there?

And now that I'm thinking about wiring you mentioned 6 wires coming from the tri-rebel on some of the wiring diagrams I have seen where the two main LEDs are bridged together so there is only one positive wire in and one negative wire out (not including the FoC LED) which of course would make 4 (2+ and 2-) correct? Actually now that I think more about it I guess I have more questions about the FoC and main LEDs...sigh... If there is a post I missed anywhere that I have missed please point it out to me if you're tired of repeating yourself. Lol I apologize.

With the main LED I can bridge the two main colors in this case i'm using the G/G/W Tri-Rebel. So I can bridge the two greens and return the wires to the main led pad on the PC without using a resistor PC v3 says: Power supply : 5.5 to 11 V / 2.5A (with the High-power LED) so my two green LEDs run at 6.8v/2A together. Correct? (Been out of shop class way to long)

The FoC LED, the white one (3.1v/1A (Yes?)), requires a resistor and if I mathed correctly I should use the 4.7ohm 5w resistor for that. I saw another post about that resistor being large and bulky and to bridge the two pads on the bottom of the PC and use the power extender to allow your FoC to go longer than the 10 seconds... I understood it at the time, but it's been a few days and after thinking about it I don't think I need to worry about that. If I'm wrong please let me know lol. Anyway if that is all correct then I'm happy (sorry I still don't have my diagram up yet)

To continue on I really like your suggestion on using the tactile switches instead of the AV switches. A few questions though regarding them. I noticed in the store there are only momentary tactile switches, how do the momentary ones work when being used as a main switch? Do you have to be holding it constantly to keep everything on? It just seems really inconvenient.

The style 17 switches that the ring is for ( http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-double-tactile-switch-ring-P897.aspx ) <-- that one. They seem to stick out very far (could be just me) is it possible to sand them down closer to the hilt or do they become hollow partway down the shaft?

Also how does that ring stay in place? epoxy? or do the switches help keep it from moving?

Like I said I love that idea and is now a very perfect option, but just want to get a couple of concerns out.

One of the last things I have thought about is adding a rumble/feedback motor is it really worth it?

Wow I guess I have more questions in my mind than I thought....

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

See my replies in yellow:


Thank you Dgdve for the feedback it is very much appreciated!

To bad about the quick release I was really excited about it.

The suggestions you gave me for the chassis is exactly what I had planned so thank you for confirming that it can work. The only question I have with it are all the wires going to that area around the PC board it already looks tight, how tight is that combination going to become when the wiring is placed (shoved :confused:) in there?

Probably very tight. it depends on how good your wiring skills and cram-fu are.

And now that I'm thinking about wiring you mentioned 6 wires coming from the tri-rebel on some of the wiring diagrams I have seen where the two main LEDs are bridged together so there is only one positive wire in and one negative wire out (not including the FoC LED) which of course would make 4 (2+ and 2-) correct? Actually now that I think more about it I guess I have more questions about the FoC and main LEDs...sigh... If there is a post I missed anywhere that I have missed please point it out to me if you're tired of repeating yourself. Lol I apologize.

You can bridge the two greens together, though as you correctly pointed out, they take up more voltage. and there would only be 4 wires.

With the main LED I can bridge the two main colors in this case i'm using the G/G/W Tri-Rebel. So I can bridge the two greens and return the wires to the main led pad on the PC without using a resistor PC v3 says: Power supply : 5.5 to 11 V / 2.5A (with the High-power LED) so my two green LEDs run at 6.8v/2A together. Correct? (Been out of shop class way to long)

Correct.

The FoC LED, the white one (3.1v/1A (Yes?)), requires a resistor and if I mathed correctly I should use the 4.7ohm 5w resistor for that. I saw another post about that resistor being large and bulky and to bridge the two pads on the bottom of the PC and use the power extender to allow your FoC to go longer than the 10 seconds... I understood it at the time, but it's been a few days and after thinking about it I don't think I need to worry about that. If I'm wrong please let me know lol. Anyway if that is all correct then I'm happy (sorry I still don't have my diagram up yet)

You should use the external resistor, if for no other reason than it will help keep your sound card "cooler".

To continue on I really like your suggestion on using the tactile switches instead of the AV switches. A few questions though regarding them. I noticed in the store there are only momentary tactile switches, how do the momentary ones work when being used as a main switch? Do you have to be holding it constantly to keep everything on? It just seems really inconvenient.

No, all you have to do is to set the PC to work with a momentary switch and your problem is solved..

The style 17 switches that the ring is for ( http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-double-tactile-switch-ring-P897.aspx ) <-- that one. They seem to stick out very far (could be just me) is it possible to sand them down closer to the hilt or do they become hollow partway down the shaft?

Yes.

Also how does that ring stay in place? epoxy? or do the switches help keep it from moving?

They are designed to be very tight. the switches help prevent them from moving around.

Like I said I love that idea and is now a very perfect option, but just want to get a couple of concerns out.

One of the last things I have thought about is adding a rumble/feedback motor is it really worth it?

No, I've never used one if all the build I have done through the years.

Wow I guess I have more questions in my mind than I thought....

[philittlewood]

You sir are fantastic! Guess it's time for me to complete my purchases and build this elegant weapon.

[dgdve]

Sounds like your well on your way to an awesome saber my friend!

FJK as always is correct and I would only add (or clarify) that YES you can sand/file off the switch as to be closer to flush (they are not hollow they are solid inside) I've done this a few times to those switches ;)

mtfbwy

[philittlewood]

Finally found a circuit wiring program that I liked.

Here's what I have for my wiring:

9652

I added in a spot for the feedback motor and a power on LED as you can see I haven't put in a resistor for either yet (1) because I don't know if they will make it to the final build and (2) I haven't figured out what resistor I need yet. :rolleyes:

Any of the usual questions, comments, concerns, hugs and/or violent outbursts are welcome! Thank you!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The diagrams look pretty good from what I can see. However, I can't clearly read all the text.

[philittlewood]

I know, I apologize I can't figure out how to make the image larger.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Get a photobucket account, and post the links from there. At least we'll be able to go over to it and enlarge a (hopefully) bigger size picture.

[philittlewood]

Alright let's try this again lol

http://i769.photobucket.com/albums/xx339/philittlewood/LightsaberWiringdiagram_zpsa4d28cf4.png

[Silver Serpent]

I would move the blue wire on the RICE port to the shared negative on the recharge port instead of connecting it directly to the battery negative. That way, you can be sure all your electronics are completely isolated from power when the kill key is inserted.

[philittlewood]

Thank you I missed that. here's the correction

http://i769.photobucket.com/albums/xx339/philittlewood/LightsaberWiringdiagram_zps2b9edfdd.png

[dgdve]

A tool you will use on every saber you build from now until death... yw my friend ;)

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

[philittlewood]

Well at almost 2 months later I am back and very happy to say that I finally have all of my pieces order and most have arrived I am only waiting on the sound board and the blade to come in. As I have been waiting (sometimes patiently) I've been doing a few dry fits just to make sure of where things are supposed to go and how I will make them fit and that's where I have run into the problem and so far the only real one I have encountered (hopefully). As dgdve suggested I am using the spst tactile momentary switches for my main and aux switches and I am using the double ring to mount both of them. This thing --> http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Tactile-C65.aspx The problem I have is installing it. The switches are long, I have sanded them down to just barely stick above the hilt and are much shorter now, but still kinda get in the way when trying to put the ring in. Is there some special way I should be doing this? or is forcing it in the way to do it? Forgetful Jedi wasn't kidding when he said they were designed to be tight.

I'm super excited to finally finish my first lightsaber and when I finally have all the pieces I'll make sure to take pictures of the before, during and after.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome back. Here are a few tips:

#1 - On the side that you do not have wires soldered to, make sure the leads are flat and level with the base of the switch.
#2 - The center section is "removable". With that said, you need to have both switches pointing down (let gravity help you) put the main ring on and then try to get the locking piece back in. Hopefully (for you) these switches aren't too far down the hilt, or you will need long tweezers, and a load of patience.
#3 - You also need to be very careful, it is easy for wired to break free of the switch leads.

Have fun!!!

[philittlewood]

Haha...yeah....That's exactly what I was thinking the answer was going to be. Nothing is ever easy but at least in the end it will be worth it.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Haha...yeah....That's exactly what I was thinking the answer was going to be. Nothing is ever easy but at least in the end it will be worth it.

And the Padawan's education continues... :D

[philittlewood]

Update time!!! I finally got the soundboard and blade in and have been working on wiring everything together went great! Actually a lot easier than I expected, but now that i'm done wiring and I'm 100% sure everything is wired as I had designed in my diagram I'm running into a few problems...

1. How do you set the damn thing to turn off with a momentary switch?!? I run the R.I.C.E. program and set it to momentary it does the confirm beep turns off and turns on i hit the switch to turn it off let go and it comes back on again.... I can't even charge it because the power just stays on.

2. I wired the white led for the FoC. Well it doesn't FoC... it doesn't Flash at all.

Any advice at what I might of possibly done wrong?

Also when I do have the charger plugged in the connection seems bad. The battery is very low because it wouldn't turn off, but while I have it on the charger if you move it just a little it dies. I feel like i'm in some horrible catch 22 I don't want the saber on, but i'd like it to charge so I can turn it on and figure out what is wrong with it.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Update time!!! I finally got the soundboard and blade in and have been working on wiring everything together went great! Actually a lot easier than I expected, but now that i'm done wiring and I'm 100% sure everything is wired as I had designed in my diagram I'm running into a few problems...

1. How do you set the damn thing to turn off with a momentary switch?!? I run the R.I.C.E. program and set it to momentary it does the confirm beep turns off and turns on i hit the switch to turn it off let go and it comes back on again.... I can't even charge it because the power just stays on.

2. I wired the white led for the FoC. Well it doesn't FoC... it doesn't Flash at all.

Any advice at what I might of possibly done wrong?

Also when I do have the charger plugged in the connection seems bad. The battery is very low because it wouldn't turn off, but while I have it on the charger if you move it just a little it dies. I feel like i'm in some horrible catch 22 I don't want the saber on, but i'd like it to charge so I can turn it on and figure out what is wrong with it.

1. Set the Switch setting to 2. Also make sure you have the APOP turned off.

2. it's starting to sound to me like you might have a short somewhere, I suggest you remove the SD card and make your changes manually for the moment.

[philittlewood]

Thank you for that it's such a relief to have it off and not have to hold the button. Now I guess my question is how do I keep it on without holding the button? Is there a setting for that or because I have a momentary switch i get one or the other?

I can't see any spot in my wiring that could of caused a short, I'm going to pull it apart a little more and take a closer look, but I don't even honestly know where there could be one

[philittlewood]

And I got it!! I just forgot to bridge the FoC pad on the board simple fix and it works amazing now! Pictures soon