Colors mixing for Cyan

[M2P]

Hello there,

I've got a question before making another order. I'd like a cyan blade, and because I want FoC, I'll need a multicolor LED with PC or CF soundcard.
I already have a tri-rebel star, in RB/G/R ; I alway see that mixing blue and green would make a cyan, but is it a problem if it's royal blue and not blue ? Well, I know I'll have something like cyan, but I have to make a new order for tilt parts so I prefer to be sure not to have to take for exemple the LED Engin LZ4 10W Multi Color ?

Then, I understood that with the PC, on FoC, colors are added (I mean the color of the blade and the other wired for Foc). Is it possible with the CF to have a specific color for Foc by turning off the one for blade ? I'd like the RGBA for amber FoC on a Cyan blade ... Possible ? ;)

Another question about colimators. Is the one for tri-rebel is ok compared with the one for LED Engin which is smaller (because all the 4 color LED are closer than on the tri-rebel. With the tri-rebel, I wouldn't like to have a blade with blue on one side and green on the other !

So thanks for the answer, it will help me !

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You can use the Tri-Rebel you have to make cyan. Royal Blue and Green will work fine.



Then, I understood that with the PC, on FoC, colors are added (I mean the color of the blade and the other wired for Foc). Is it possible with the CF to have a specific color for Foc by turning off the one for blade ? I'd like the RGBA for amber FoC on a Cyan blade ... Possible ? ;)

Another question about colimators. Is the one for tri-rebel is ok compared with the one for LED Engin which is smaller (because all the 4 color LED are closer than on the tri-rebel. With the tri-rebel, I wouldn't like to have a blade with blue on one side and green on the other !


A PCv3 can add color , BUT it can also allow you to subtract colors. SO for cyan, you need rB and G - For an amber-ish color you would need G and R (you would have to experiment to get the shade you want). The manual shows you how to do it, and how to configure it for what you want. If you look up my Illustrious build, you will see that with the CF, I have several different main blade colors, and several different FoC colors, and ALL of them were done with a Tri-Rebel like you have

The Tri-Rebel lens works fine, as long as you make sure the main LED star and it are centered on the heatsink when you install them. Again, I have used them multiple times without issue.

[dgregory]

This is a tri reb with Rb and G for Cyan.

http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/q549/dgregory74/Color-Shifter%201/IMG_0508_zps6d7086b3.jpg

[M2P]

Thanks Forgetful Jedi Knight, it's all I needed to ear ! And I saw your Illustrious lightsaber, it's nice and well done. I like the differents blade colors.
Thanks dgregory for your pic ; your cyan is very nice and what I need !
I think I'll stay on the PC, without RICE, with this cyan, and a rBlue for FoC. rBlue Foc could be very nice on a cyan blade, as on your Artic Blue blade !
Thanks for your help.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

If you are not going to use RICE, you will want to set up and test your configurations before you even try to install everything.

[M2P]

That's right FJK. In fact, I'm really a newbie on lightsaber and electronic. I will perhaps use a RICE later, but for now, I think I'll go with a PC and only one color (Cyan with blue FoC), so doing like that won't be a pain (well I hope !) as making 5-6 colors like you done with your nice Illustrious !

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

That's right FJK. In fact, I'm really a newbie on lightsaber and electronic. I will perhaps use a RICE later, but for now, I think I'll go with a PC and only one color (Cyan with blue FoC), so doing like that won't be a pain (well I hope !) as making 5-6 colors like you done with your nice Illustrious !

Most who start out here are. You will need to really read through the manual and learn how to configure the PC, since you will need to constantly remove and edit the files on the SD card to get the saber colors to your liking.

Illustrious was done with a Crystal Focus V6 when they first came out in the summer of 2012.

[Ty_Bomber]

And to be honest, hooking up a rice port is much faster for color mixing than a constantly fiddling with the drive settings on the sd card.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

And to be honest, hooking up a rice port is much faster for color mixing than a constantly fiddling with the drive settings on the sd card.

But it can also be confusing for someone just starting out (like M2P is). And how exactly do you think we did things in the days before RICE?

[Ty_Bomber]

I haven't the slightest. I never had the courage to fiddle with the config settings without a visual interface.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I haven't the slightest. I never had the courage to fiddle with the config settings without a visual interface.

Yeah, well, that's what we use to have to do. And keep copies and manage config files on our computers as well.

[Yoshi-Taka]

For once, I'm gonna be useful and contribute to a thread. This is weird..

I actually was messing around with cyan last night, because I finally got to use it. While I haven't been able to use a RGrB yet, I have a normal RGB to work with and I figured I'd test out mixing cyan. So I have a set of pictures for you, as well as a teenie bit of information. I hope you find this helpful.

First, I wired the Green and Blue in parallel. This allowed me to use the cyan with a Nano Biscotte. No, I didn't use a resistor. I changed the Drive setting from 1023 to 940 (which you can do for blue and green) so it wouldn't overdrive. Parallel will cut the run time, but the battery I have is pretty big so it's cool.

https://scontent-a-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1/1900051_10152675622259922_759596039_n.jpg
https://scontent-b-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1/1891264_10152675622269922_1297769299_n.jpg

Pretty bright, yeah? It looks basically the same colour in person - a nice sky blue.
Now, the next two are the Blue and Green dice wired in series. While this does require more voltage, I was using it with a Petit Crouton V2.0 so I had plenty of battery to work with.

https://scontent-a-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1902723_10152675622239922_1565617169_n.jpg
https://scontent-b-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1/1654045_10152675622264922_1939720199_n.jpg

Unless my vision is that poor (which it might be), those two shades of cyan are exactly the same. And I'm fairly certain it would look exactly like this in a stunt as well. I'm not sure if this will help you draw any conclusions, but mixing to get cyan is a lot more reliable than hoping for the right bin of a cyan when you buy. I really hope this actually contributes to the thread, lol.

And no, I haven't been able to test out FoC, so my usefulness on the topic is more or less expired. Best of luck to you!

[M2P]

Thanks for your help. And nice cyan Yoshi-Taka ! Love it !
Right now, I'm waiting the PC v3 from PlecterLabs, and the hilt (and many other stuffs) from TCSS ; ordered 1 week ago but still in process, hope it will be sent soon (Can't wait ;) ).

[jedimastergarcia87]

I'd like to see a full recent Rebel Cyan blade and in a stunt set up if possible. Been curious to see if its still that mint green color. I think that would be cool to have. Plan on using a Rebel Cyan for a stunt build.