First build for Guardian

[Guardianofwinds]

Here are the two sister sabers I have been planning since I found this awesome forum in 08. There are still alot of things I need to learn and p,an on doing with these sabers. For instance I'm seriously considering getting a brass weathered shroud for the first. These two were assembled using they MHS saber builder. Please any ideas, thoughts, critiques, and etc are welcome and needed.9618





I'm currently thinking for LEDs one being a white rebel with an Oklahoma yellow color disc, while the other I'm not sure, any suggestions to pair up?

I'm planning on putting a NB in both , I have most of the tools necessary to set up. I will post the parts list later .

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Those look good for starting out. You should easily be able to do both of those with NB's. I'm not a huge fan of using color filters, but other than that, Good Luck!

[Ty_Bomber]

I agree with FJK on the filters. There are already way too many possibilities for getting the right color without filtering your precious, precious lumens.

Great sabers though. Extremely elegant.

[Vazan Maceu]

I'm currently thinking for LEDs one being a white rebel with an Oklahoma yellow color disc, while the other I'm not sure, any suggestions to pair up?

I also agree with what Ty and FJK said. The store provides plenty of color options already assembled in a heatsink module right here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx). I?d give a try to the amber luxeon if you?re set on yellow, and put a green on the other one. If you want 'exact' colors, that involves using a Luxeon Tri-Rebel star (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Tri-Rebel-Star-P777.aspx), which has three colored leds you can mix in order to get the shade you want, but that requires fiddling with potentiometers or resistors.

As I said, plenty of options and a truckload of available information around this forum :cool:

[Yoshi-Taka]

I guess I'll chime in an echo the anti-filter sentiment. I've used filters once. Never again. Colour mixing is pretty easy, even on an NB. It'll cut the run time but it's worth it if you really want that a more natural looking variant of the colour (a mixed RGB makes a much better and brighter yellow than a filter ever could, I promise you. I just did one a couple days ago).

[Guardianofwinds]

I didn't realize I had options. There was someone on the forum who built a swing themed, they had a reeeeaaaaaaly nice yellow hue. I'm planning on putting either an AV switch or momentary in both, possibly in the pommel. I don't know anything about color mixing yet. I have seen some amber less, and they just don't do it for me. I like the idea of green, but what hue? At first I was thinking veridian if I could swing it. Also debating different materials for the chassis sled. I was thinking PVC or something like it surrounding by a foam luke substance.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You may not be able to put A/V momentaries in the pommels you have, and have space for the speaker. You can also use chassis parts sold in the store ;)

While very basic color mixing is "possible" with a NB, you would probably get better results with a PCv3.

Veridian Green is Green + White. Yellow is Red + Green

[Johannes Huber]

On a "yellow" or "gold" blade, another LED color you may want to look at is the Luxeon Warm White 2775K. I used it in a tri rebel setup with an NB and it works very nicely with both the lith-ion 18650 and the Nimh 4.8 volt battery setup. If you want a look at the blade color, you should be able to find some pics in the thread for the saber I built last with it. Just search "Illumination" and it should bring it up. Gold/yellow doesn't seem to work well with filters (that was my first idea when I built that saber but the results were... unsatisfying.). Good luck on the build and make sure you post some pics when you're done.

[Guardianofwinds]

I saw it. I really love that shade of yellow. So lemme get this straight, so I. Gonna need to go with a tri rebel set up, with a warm white 2775k. What other two colors am I gonna need to blend. It's a three led set up,on a star correct. I still have alot of reading to do to figure out how I'm going to pull this off , btw you are right, the blended looks better than the filters. Waaaaay better

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Just because there are 3 dice, doesn't mean you need to use all 3. You only really need to use to to mix a color effectively.

[clahey83]

if you decide not to put the switches on the pommels (I find it to be a rather odd place for the switch in most sabers) then you can opt for the module Tim offers in the store just for NBs. all you need is:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V6-P892.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18650-Single-Cell-Holder-P886.aspx

after that, pick a speaker and a 18650 cell, and get a NB. you will need to source some tube guard for T8 lamps, it is extremely cheap.

this setup including a NB will cost you about $100 after shipping.

[Guardianofwinds]

Thank you. That is going to simplify my build and wires a tad. I'm going to need to buy a new heatsink. I got the blade holder already thinking I could get what I needed with a simple rebel star. I have the v2. I need the v3 for tri rebels. Yoshi-take was right . I completely forgot that the speaker was going to take up the pommel. I need to figure and easy way to get to the batteries unless I can macgyver a recharge port on the side.....not sure how that's going to work or if I'm just over thinking it. I'm convinced I going to go with the soft white led mentioned earlier, but Tim doesn't carry it, does he?

[Yoshi-Taka]

Yoshi-take was right .

I was? O.o

You're going for a Nano Biscotte build, right? You're using a li-ion setup for it, I'm assuming. Why not use an activator box. It'll cost a bit more, but it'll make building and management much easier. It'll also allow you to very easily install a recharge port, especially use Activator Box 9 for example. And it won't detract from the overall design too much and lets you use an AV switch. No need to MacGuyver anything then. I do it all the time; it will all fit, including the speaker into the pommel (speaker mount 4 will slide right into the pommel without any issue, plus give you plenty of room between it and the box/recharge port for the Nano and battery).

[Guardianofwinds]

Absolutely lov, love, love the idea. It says its meant to house the dpsd switch right? I'm looking for it and I can't find it. Do they they. Mean the anti vandal momentary switches? I'm sorry I'm such a newb. Now I was thinking number six. It would fit everything snug . Not sure how I'm going to puta recharge port in that, or do I make the box the recharge port. That would be wizard

[Yoshi-Taka]

If you use Activator Box 9, then you can use any switch from this page here - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/AV-Style-Short-C81.aspx
Pick a switch, any switch my friend, any of them will do. They're all momentary switches and are perfectly suitable for the NB, with or without the accent/indicator LED. They're also short so you can use the Activator Box 9 without problems.

This is activator box 9 - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Activation-box-style-9-P626.aspx
The recharge port screws into the box in the back, the AV switch screws into the front. It all slides onto the hilt and is held in place by the center screw (any 4-40 screw will work, which you can find in the store). You should be sure to add the service to get the box mounting done - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Box-910-and-17-Mounting-holes-service-P627.aspx

This is all just my personal preferences. The boxes make installation easier and less time consuming. It also makes things a bit more sleek and easier to fit into your hilt.

[Johannes Huber]

Sorry to take so long getting back about the tri-rebel warm white (had 3 computers in the house all go down and had to fix them all..). What I did is run all 3 tri-rebel dice with the Warm white 2775K LED. It is quite doable with the single 18650 Lith-ion battery and a Nano-biscotti. I've done my last 3 builds using an NB and tri-rebel setup running all 3 LEDs and so far no problems. Wire them in parallel with resistors for each LED and you're good to go and will get a nice bright blade. Note: Remember that the NB can take about 2000mA worth of current going through it so each LED should be getting somewhere around 600-700mA current by using resistors ( I've gone past this limit by... a bit, in testing, but I would certainly understand if it voids any warranty on the board or cooks it. Incredibly tough and forgiving little piece of circuitry: Yay, Plector! Now if we could just get a new NB 2.0 to go with the new CF 7.0, PC 3.0 and CS 2.0... hint, hint)
The suggestion of an activation box is definitely a good idea, it makes installation a lot easier. Looking forward to the final result.

[Guardianofwinds]

Emitter, hilt , misch parts, act. Box 9 ordered