Costume tutorials while building: SW: The Old Republic: Jedi Guardian (2014 Build)

[Echo4Delta]

Hello Ladies and Gents,

Here I will be building and showing my best attempt at a tutorial for making (My 1st Attempt sewing) a Jedi Guardian costume. The sections shall consist of:

Using Pepakura style modified files for foam and descriptions for the armor
Resources on where to get the materials (U.S. Territories)
Links to Videos where I learned
Photo's galore of my progress and to show examples.

Please be patient for this build will take a long time. CONSTRUCTIVE criticism is encouraged. Being a fan of making things I can appreciate a short thread. So, although I appreciate positive feedback, please keep it to a minimum and simply message me for questions. Please let visitors to this thread able to quickly scan the thread without having to click page after page of comments that could be directed through private messaging.

[Echo4Delta]

So here it goes.

Reference pics as I have found for details...

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[Echo4Delta]

What is Pepakura?

Basically there are really smart and talented folks out there who have rendered 3D virual images of your favorite characters. Master Chief, Storm Troopers yadda yadda... So, these fine additions to the human condition convert these images into a program called pepakura that allows you to print off paper (Usually Cardstock - Available at most office supply stores including Wal-Mart, I recommend 110lbs). You cut the peices out and glue them together (using a hot glue gun/sticks works best) and with some skill and imagination you can construct a real 3D model of your desired piece.

The website to download the "viewer" : http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/

The viewer allows you to manipulate the piece(s) but you cannot save the changes. The "designer" allows you to save the changes you make.

I suggest you check out these videos to better understand:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEX5n6iE2II

[Echo4Delta]

Here's another for sizing: VERY IMPORTANT!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_YIKeFX9P8

[Echo4Delta]

On this forum you can see (towards the bottom of the 1st page) how the foam or cardboard can be manipulated to get the lines, layers and or curves you want. Other than that I encourage you to simply type keywords like "foam, pepakura" into youtube and surf.

http://www.therpf.com/f24/jfcustoms-foam-files-148889/

[Echo4Delta]

Tools you'll need.

Various thicknesses of pens/pencils.
Card Stock Paper
Printer
Scissors
Hobby/X-Acto Knife or similar cutting tool - Keep in mind the thickness of the material you are cutting (Thick foam or thin paper)
Glue (Preferably Hot Glue Gun with High Heat Sticks)
Scotch Tape
(Spray Adhesive Optional)
Measuring tape (The kind that seamstresses use NOT the kind that carpenters use)
Foam: It can be various styles, thicknesses but this is what I'll be using...

http://www.sears.com/best-step-antifatigue-foam-floor-mat-black/p-00914118000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

and

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/12-x-18-black-eva-foam-sheet-3mm-288019/

**Mind you. You can do an alternative method that uses pepakura and cardboard or fiberglass resin with automotive body filler (Bondo). Again, youtube... this is a foam build tutorial for us cheapskates**

[Echo4Delta]

Now, onto the base layer...

As seen in the picture below we want to find the right fabric to match our bodysuit where the armor connects. Iv'e narrowed it down to two kinds thanks to the folks at the RPF.

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Fabric #1:

http://styletex.com/styletex/%28S%28dxng0y553fikpoipbs2tf4um%29%29/Product.aspx?ProductID=1452&&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

Fabric #2:

http://www.onlinefabricstore.net/brown-gabardine-fabric-.htm

I will try to see if local stores have any and when I settle on one.. I'll post pics and links.

[Echo4Delta]

I found a guy at the RPF.com (Firefek) who SOLD me the files for $55.

Example of what it looks like on Pepakura designer...

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I've learned that the more you can print or shape in fewer pieces the better.

This is what I have so far... The Chest Piece... no need to print out the whole thing... just one half and simply flip the paper to do the other side...

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[Darth Malus]

looks good so far

[Echo4Delta]

I forgot to mention. All the measurements in Pepakura viewer/designer is in Centimeter (Cm). So, when measuring yourself or whomever, use CENTIMETER. And do it before you even THINK about printing anything. Here's how you do the scaling...

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the measurements are in three digits. For example: If you measure 32 then you should type in 320... and so forth. If you feel the need to do a precise measurement by a tenth, then you can add the last digit to specify such need.

Click on "2DPatternWindow" then "Change the Scale of Development" then select "Specify Scale"

Measurements are from the highest to the lowest point and to the widest ends and depth, but you usually don't have to worry about depth. REMEMBER TO LOOK FOR THE ENDS. You can easily focus on the major pieces and overlook the edges that stick out and is factored in the 3/2D render. See the above video regarding scale for a good tutorial.

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Example of height.. simply 32Cm or "320"

REMEMBER...
If you do not have pepakura DESIGNER and you only have pepakura VIEWER you will not be able to save your changes, so cheat by writing down your measurements to use later!

[Echo4Delta]

This is the window that should pop up.

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[Echo4Delta]

With the cod I examined the 3D render on the PC and determined that there were three major parts for construction as seen here...

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[Echo4Delta]

I took into account of the valleys (shown below) and simply added it to the cutout template from the pepakura file to deal with later which I have a plan to use a 3mm layer to give it depth which I will show you later.

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[Echo4Delta]

Here you can see where I added extra paper to the valley to fill the gap...

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[Echo4Delta]

Here is an example of how I set the pieces together to do a fit test. Fit testing is important to do BEFORE you touch foam or cardboard. Simply use scotch tape and put the corresponding pieces together using the pepakura program as a template.

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[Echo4Delta]

Here is an example of the materials I used.

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[cardcollector]

I'm planning on building a costume like this, so am watching very closely. :) Thanks for sharing your progress!

[ShadowMystic]

If you want a more durable armor, look on the resource page of the 501st legion Vader's fist. There you can get stores that sell Stormtrooper armor which includes the bodysuit. You can then cut and refinish the armor to your needs.

[Echo4Delta]

Yes, you can purchase armor pieces from various places, but this a tutorial of my build using foam. I will post a link soon on how to make a cast of your foam armor to show you how you can go 'rigid'. With a little patients and skill development you'll be standing in your work area marveling at your creation from $150 that people sell online for 3 times the amount. But, the bodysuit for Stormtrooper can be easily purchased online by looking up wetsuits. For this build you'll want brown. Most wetsuits are black or neon. For a Sith Acolyte you can use black tee shirts and black pajama bottoms because their look is a lot like the Ring Wraiths from LOTR movies.

Luckily, the way this armor will work (at least I hope) it will be mostly out of the way and not be bulky. Whereas, if you were sporting a FULL body suit of armor, yes being more sturdy is important. See the pic below for my full suit I did for 2013 Halloween. The shin pieces weren't attached very well because I rushed the job and built the suit in 2 months. Which is why I am starting now and giving myself plenty of time for this year. Ha!

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[Echo4Delta]

I had to change my approach to the guantlets, but sometimes that happends. The original looked like this...

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Because I left the side pieces out the frame couldn't keep the curve and would lay flat. So, I decided to fill in the space and intend to add layers to show the gaps by painting it a darker color to let the top pop more...

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[Echo4Delta]

Ok, so I finished with the layers and forgot to delete some of the sections in the layers, but I guess I coluld just add them when I paint it. Here is the end result on the gauntlet build and ready for paint prep. Now I just have to do the other one. Pfft.

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And guess what the store just dropped off!?

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[dgdve]

As a fellow pep guy I have to say your doing a great job explaining some basic things (let's be honest it's not easy to explain the pep viewer to people).. And there are a few tricks to it you just have to learn as you go along. Right clicking objects and scroll wheeling.. As well as choosing the proper print type (as well as double checking pieces that jump around when you actually reach proper scale..)

So your doing great and making us pep talkers proud!

All in all I absolutely love pepakura for it's ability to be 100% accurate to scale.. And to be glassed and painted as one would do a true helm (Foam is not so much but is great for armor's)

I also have a project to post one sad far away day (read forever from now) so I always watch pep builds for any new tips or tricks I can pick up from guys I meet or I can pass on from guys I have met.

Keep up the great work on the tut! Your creating a path for someone else to follow, kudo's to that!!

[Echo4Delta]

As a fellow pep guy I have to say your doing a great job explaining some basic things (let's be honest it's not easy to explain the pep viewer to people).. And there are a few tricks to it you just have to learn as you go along. Right clicking objects and scroll wheeling.. As well as choosing the proper print type (as well as double checking pieces that jump around when you actually reach proper scale..)

So your doing great and making us pep talkers proud!

All in all I absolutely love pepakura for it's ability to be 100% accurate to scale.. And to be glassed and painted as one would do a true helm (Foam is not so much but is great for armor's)

I also have a project to post one sad far away day (read forever from now) so I always watch pep builds for any new tips or tricks I can pick up from guys I meet or I can pass on from guys I have met.

Keep up the great work on the tut! Your creating a path for someone else to follow, kudo's to that!!


I appreciate your comments. Yea, this method is like any other art, it takes time and learning what works for you and using tricks learned from trial and error and RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH! Kind of like, measure twice and cut once. But sometimes you have to just go with it and learn. It's taken me pretty much a year to figure things out and I still don't think I have everything. But, if it weren't for those guys who I refer to in this tutorial I wouldn't even have started this new and fun hobby. Not even mentioning all the help they give me and my constant questions, like Silver Serpent, who has helped me a lot on learning the saber stuff.

[Echo4Delta]

Guantlets Build: Completed

Now, mind you... I'm not making this costume to look EXACTLY like the Jedi Guardian but just trying to get darn close to it.

Since my first gauntlet turned out pretty good and I've exceeded the matching on the second one I will simply use both instead of making them exactly alike. Fortunately, after looking at the mini-movie at the begining of The Old Republic game the gauntlets aren't exactly the same but has differences on the inside collar. Meh... So, here is a few more photos and explanations of how I did it.

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Here you see the stencil, The base layer (Thicker anti-fatigue Mat) and the thinner (3mm foam matting from the hobby store).

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Here you see that I used pray on adhesive. This is the basic stuff but I suggest you get the medium stuff at a hobby store. I just had this can from when I was getting some fiberglass to stick to a interior of a helmet. I simply used scratch paper to protect the surface area, sprayed the thin foam matting and then transferred it to the base layer of the gauntlet.

[Echo4Delta]

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Here I used the hot glue gun and added the detailed pieces.

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On the top of the gauntlet I used the thicker 5mm hobby foam matting to do the detail pieces and another piece of anti-fatigue matting to do the wrist guard. I had to double up to do the oblong block in the center and cut diagonally to give the proper look. I suggest using a large box cutter knife to get nice straight cuts so the cut doesn't warp the edges. Sharper the knife... easier the job.

[Echo4Delta]

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If you note in the pictures in the previous post that the wrist guard looks weird. Its because it doesn't follow the contour of the gauntlet. So in here you see where I got a small strip of the thick foam and glued it on the inside... pulled in the edges and glued it to the inside of the gauntlet. Also, this closes the gap to the gauntlet and wrist for better fitting later.

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Before and After

[Echo4Delta]

Uh oh... its way too big... but the length on the forearm is right... what to do....

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Simply turn it around (where no one will really see it anyway) and cut the appropriate section size out. If you're kind of worried that you'll cut too much. Just cut a little at a time, squeeze it together on your forearm for a test fit. Use a SHARP hobby knife (I prefer to use a large retractable utility knife) and make a nice straight cut so the ends match up nicely.

If your gauntlet is too small. Just cut down the center put a strip of foam between it and glue it back together. If you mess up a bit and you think it looks crooked or ugly (too much glue) simply get a piece of thin foam and over it. Boom!

[Echo4Delta]

So, that's pretty much it. I will set it off to the side and let the curve hold. Maybe even put it on a contoured cup or someting to give it extra help in shaping until its time to seal and paint.

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Here is the side by side comparison of the two gauntlets. They are slightly different only people like you or I might see, but after I paint them to purposefully look different, I doubt anyone will care. By layering different thicknesses of foam or materials like this can save you a whole lot of detailed painting or enough detail on its own to make the observers think that you are a mastermind. Not to mention after you paint it that you're an armor smith. ha!

I'm thinking of adding LEDs to these bad boys to really make them pop. But if I do it, I promise to show you how I did that too!

[Echo4Delta]

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The Cod:

Again, Layers are your friend.

[Echo4Delta]

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[Echo4Delta]

Ok, here we have the need to do a slanted piece. It's located below the peck and attaches the rib guard.

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See how I cut the strip at an angle? It makes it easier to get closer seams.

[Echo4Delta]

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When attaching angled pieces its better to give yourself more room. See here where I marked the edge and gave myself more room to attach the strip.

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Layers. Layers Layers, babeh!

[Echo4Delta]

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That's better

[Echo4Delta]

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After taking those photos I realized that I missed a detail... added here.

[The Yin]

This is awesome. I've got a set of Jedi armor I made 2 years back as a Comic-con costume, and I plan on making another set this year, maybe for WonderCon, and I plan on using EVA foam for it. I'm bookmarking this thread so I don't lose it. Keep up the good work Echo4.

[Echo4Delta]

This is awesome. I've got a set of Jedi armor I made 2 years back as a Comic-con costume, and I plan on making another set this year, maybe for WonderCon, and I plan on using EVA foam for it. I'm bookmarking this thread so I don't lose it. Keep up the good work Echo4.

That's great! That is why I am doing this thread. So peeps who want to do the whole deal, lightsaber(s) and all can do it with very little money and skill. I'm working on the shins now and hope to have those up soon.

[Echo4Delta]

So, for the cloak I purchased 5 yards (prolly too much) of medium brown cotton flannel fabric for $30. I'm sure you'll be able to find cheaper someplace else.

For the body suit/under garment I purchased 10 yards of Brown Polyester Stretch Gabardine Fabric from hand****fabrics for $18. I plan on wearing something underneath like thermal underwear or moisture wicking compression top and bottom depending on the weather.

[Silver Serpent]

Photobucket is free, and quick to set up. :)

[Echo4Delta]

Photobucket is free, and quick to set up. :)

Yea, but setting it up is maddening on a phone. But, getting one set up soon then it'll be easier. Wish PMs let you send pics via SSD/HD/SD.

[Echo4Delta]

Here is my saber without paint.

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This is a stunt saber setup with a charging plug.

Inside:

Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (Royal Blue) w /1ohm 2w resistor
Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery
MWS Short Latching 16mm AV Switch (White Ring) w/ 20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
2.1mm Power Jack

I don't have the recharging plug ported out on the body of the saber yet because I wasn't sure where I wanted it.

Here is the schematic that Silver Serpent helped me with that I modified from Big_Furry_Oaf's post.

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[Echo4Delta]

Although I purchased the Pepakura files from someone on another forum, they aren't always accurate.

Here is what I see on the pepakura side for the shin...
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Here is what I see looking at the artwork...

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See how the inside of the ankle and the knee guard doesn't match? Well, I had to do some homemade crafts...

Remember I talked about measurements? I started at the bend of the ankle and gave myself a bit more room just in case. Took the number at the top of my kneecap (bent) to star off with. I eyeballed the details and started cutting some regular old printer paper and transferred it to the cardstock and taped it together...

[Echo4Delta]

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[Ty_Bomber]

Very cool tutorial, very cool saber.

[Echo4Delta]

Thighs...

They have two curves. One around your leg and one that contours over your thigh vertically between the hip and knee.

To achieve this look you'll need to apply heat to the foam. You can use a hairdryer or heat gun. Heat guns are about the same price as a blow dryer, but if you have a woman in the house... you have a hairdryer. I apologize guys if you are one of those lucky dudes who got to keep their long flowing locks for suggesting only women use them. Anyway...

Avoid burning the foam. If you start to see blackening... dime to adjust your heat level or distance. I prefer to concentrate my heating on the rough or diamond plate side. So, if I burn it.. you can't see it!

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Heat the material. Bend it, but remember that hot things burn skin too! You can use gloves!

I use my fists and knee to stretch out the material and blow on it to try to quickly cool it off and let the membranes set.

[Echo4Delta]

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I pinched the edges while trying to maintain the straight edges to avoid waves on ends. Cool and BOOM!

[Echo4Delta]

Added a layer to the base to give it a raised look and the two accent pieces. Also, I saw that there is a bracing piece on the inside. Later I will be putting straps on this and the opposing side to keep it on the leg.

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Of course there are lines on the thigh that suggest that the pieces are more numerous and seem attached together. I will achieve this by using a hot knife or soldering iron to trace the lines to give it a recessed look. I'll show you that later.

[Echo4Delta]

I put off the shins because I wasn't sure I had enough material to do them... but ... apparently one roll of anti-fatigue mat was more than enough. Had just enough to make one more whole leg if I messed up!

Remember, simple is best. In pepakura it suggests that you should cut a bunch of pieces out to form a multi-directional shape, like the thighs, chest and shins... blah blah blah...but in the end you can simply mimic with layers.

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Be mindful of the heat gun/hairdryer and the hot glue. You may overheat the areas you're working and it could fall apart.

[Echo4Delta]

For the hand guards I just used 5mm, 3mm and 2mm craft foam and layers baby!

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[Echo4Delta]

Well, that pretty much sums up the armor build. Now all that is needed is a way to wear it. I suggest you check out this....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zK4w1xdVeBI

The armor (before paint preping/seem etching):

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[Echo4Delta]

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Fabric color test... looking good IMO.

[Echo4Delta]

For the lack of a better explanation... the shield emitter on the chest...

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I cut out the oval and then used a strip of the 5mm foam to roll around it. Then, I cut out the plastic from the laminating strip and set it inside. I glued the plastic into the foam strip from the inside and used painter's tape to put some silver metalic enamel on the outside to give it that mirrored effect.

[The Yin]

Well done Echo4, it looks good.
When I did my Sintra armor, the chin guards where the hardest to shape and make.

[Echo4Delta]

Well done Echo4, it looks good.
When I did my Sintra armor, the chin guards where the hardest to shape and make.

Yea, I've learned that just taking time to plan and using a heat gun can help solve a lot of problems.

[Echo4Delta]

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Some Cotton Flannel from Hobby Lobby (Craft Store or any place that sells fabric)

And the tutorial from http://www.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36267

[Echo4Delta]

I cut a couple of strips left over from the cloak fabric to see if they could be a quick substitute for the belt pouches. Not too bad IMO. But, I think I want to use some faux leather when i can get my hands on some at the local hobby/fabric shop.

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I plan on using these to hold the battery packs for the LED inserts on the armor. I plan on running the wire through the belt and up the side of my torso and to the gauntlets. I will more than likely put a battery pack under the chest piece for those LEDs. Two 9V batteries should be plenty enough for the whole setup.

[Echo4Delta]

To add the ability to wear the armor I did this. You can come up with your own way like attaching snaps on your undersuit where your armor connects directly to it (Be mindful of lose fabric allowing the armor to swing around while you move).

I plan on doing a combination of belt strapping and direct to undersuit clipping such as on the thighs where it tends to slide down that I will show later when I have the bodysuit completed. For now here is how I did mine:

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How I attached mine was I estimated the amount by doing a 'dry run' by putting the armor on and using my tape measure I overlapped the area that I needed and boom... you have the length you need.

[Echo4Delta]

Then I suggest you perform a quality/fit/proportion test. Unless you put it all on you will not be 100% sure you're happy with it's results. I strongly advise doing this BEFORE you paint.

Mine is not attached to a bodysuit yet, so It will be a little off in areas, but I feel happy with the result. Pardon for the redeye, but hey... it's Star Wars.

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[Echo4Delta]

I know its been a while. Seems as money got tight and I'm just now getting the paint supplies. Bare with me. But, here's a little joy from the store!


http://youtu.be/dHZSKK7habI

[Echo4Delta]

Ok, another tip... Make your own bust...

1.) Get two old shirts you won't need.
2.) Put one on.
3.) Using duct tape, wrap it around yourself. (Having someone help you is better but not required) (Be sure to keep your back straight and don't suck in your gut because you'll want it to be accurate)
4.) Carefully draw a cut line down the front and use cross lines to use later to match everything up.
5.) Cut off the shirt carefully.
6.) Use the duct tape to reattach the cut lines using the cross pattern you stenciled to line it up.
7.) Using newspaper, ball sheet/page after sheet/page and fill in the inside of the duct taped shirt to fill it out.
8.) Don't forget to tape up the neck, arms and bottom to finish it off.

Note: This will not be an EXACT match to your body shape, but darn close. So, you can use it to mount your costuming chest/shoulder and upper arm pieces for quality checks and or display.

The second shirt is just to go over the duct tape bust to make it look clean and to prevent any sticky snags that may be present when manipulating your costume pieces later.

See Below:97429743

[Echo4Delta]

Here I will be explaining how to make your foam armor a little bit more rigid and or to try to keep a shape. This method could also be used to seal the foam if you're not using plasti-dip.

All you need are white craft/school glue or even wood glue. Think of the glue as a sort of primer/filler like in auto body work. Because foam is porous by nature for its flexibility, light material it also has a sort of memory (it will go back to a previous shape). As mentioned earlier you can use a heat gun to manipulate the membranes within and shape it as it cools to keep a general shape. However, the thicker the pieces the harder it is to keep a shape. Thus, which is why I will be using this method for the chest and waist armor pieces.

The purpose behind this use it two fold:
1.) The chest piece is thick. I want it to contour to my chest and upper abs to give it a fitted look.
2.) If I simply apply glue and or plasti dip as is (flat or unformed) when I bend it to fit (like the cod/belt piece) any paint I put on it will most likely chip, crack and even come off exposing the black/gray inner membrane. Thus, making the illusion of metal armor disappear to the person marveling at your creation.

How to apply:

What I'll use (Except I will want a bigger paint brush too)

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I prefer to use a bowl and take off the cap of the glue bottle and pour liberally so I can dip my brush in as needed to apply. The thicker (say just straight from the bottle onto the armor via brush) the likelihood that you'll have runs, blotches and so forth.

Using water to thin out the glue is the best option. Too thin and you'll have to apply numerous coats. Using water as a thinner will not harm the foam, as real thinners would, you can simply wipe off (with a damp rag) excess glue applications if it's too runny and so forth. But, if you wait too long it will gel up and it will be a pain to fix.

Here I suggest you make a practice piece that you can glue/seal and or firm up the foam and paint later to test for your color testing, rigidity and so forth.

Again, thicker use is to seal the armor for paint use. If you want to make the foam more rigid you should thin out the glue with water (Because when it evaporates the glue with harden in the membranes thus making the material more rigid and won't bend too much and chip the paint later).

You can use a heat gun or blow dryer to speed up the process, but I would advise against it until you're use to doing this method to prevent blotches, runs, and hurting the shape.

[Echo4Delta]

An example of what it looks like is below. The more layers of watered down glue you add the more rigid the piece will be, but eventually the foam membranes will seal and you will have a shine to it because essentially the glue is very thick and could break like wax if bent too much.

Note: Everything below has wet, drying or dry glue on it.

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[Echo4Delta]

Here I've applied two of 4 coats of plasti-dip (black) to seal the pieces for paint...

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[Echo4Delta]

Here I primed the armor for paint later. But, I began weathering options using two different metalic sprays and then watered down acrylic to tint/weather the metal colors to see how well it matched the reference pic. Later I will likely add browns to show tarnish and use a dry paper towel to score off the tint before it completely dries to show the metal underneath to weather/show use.

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[Echo4Delta]

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[Echo4Delta]

So far so good. Here you can sort of make out where I've taped off and painted two tones of metallic. Aluminum (Collar and heart guard) and silver satin.
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[Sidd]

I dont know if this has been covered but what thickness foam are you using?

[Echo4Delta]

http://www.sears.com/best-step-antifatigue-foam-floor-mat-black/p-00914118000P

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/12-x-18-black-foam-sheet-5mm-330415/

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/12-x-18-black-eva-foam-sheet-3mm-288019/

[Echo4Delta]

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Using a small brush and paper towels I brushed on the watered down acrylic and then dabbed with a damp towel a few times till I got the desired effect.

[Echo4Delta]

Eureka! I've found my bodysuit and won't have to sew it together. Or, rather learn to sew it together!

http://www.zentaizone.com/dark-brown-unicolor-spandex-uni***-zentai-suit-p-38.html

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They will even allow you to add your custom sizes, i.e. bust, waist, leg length and so forth in case you have a big belly like me or you're a woman and breast size may be an issue. They also take special order information such as giving you a crew neck collar like i got. I've already tried it on the color matches pretty close!

[Darth Ryo]

How could I miss this?
This is going to be quite a cool costume :D

And the detailed build log is very interesting ^^

[Echo4Delta]

How could I miss this?
This is going to be quite a cool costume :D

And the detailed build log is very interesting ^^

Thanks man. This is for those who want to, thought about it, or simply curious.

[Echo4Delta]

Saber is 98% complete. Just need to let the paint set a few more days and maybe change the clip.

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[Echo4Delta]

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Remember the thighs and shin pieces? Well, the sealing (palsti-dip) and plastic based primer has dried and time to start painting. You will want to do layers like anything else and paint the layer that is the most prominent, in this case its nickel or metallic/silver. Then you can start taping off the areas that you don't want painted when doing accent parts as shown in the next few pictures...

[Echo4Delta]

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On the belt I've started an accent piece and while it was still wet I balled up a piece of paper to apply scratches to dry as a 'weathered' or used armor look.

[Echo4Delta]

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The guantlets

[Echo4Delta]

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Simply copied the lines from the reference pics to give the thighs and cod/belt pieces detail. I plan on glazing over the metallic areas on the thighs with a satin paint layer to allow me to add the green layer as done on the breast piece.

[Echo4Delta]

I repainted the chest with the nickel and decided to do a green spray instead of using a wash. It turned out pretty good, although I think I went a bit dark. But, just be aware of wind because it can make your spray pattern go all haywire! After I got a good layer of green I touched up the highlighted areas on the chest (collar) back to sliver and then got the nickel spray and sprayed it into the top and grabbed a sponge brush to lightly touch the edges of the armor.

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[Echo4Delta]

You can use the same technique to add battle damage where it would give the viewer a sense that something hit the armor and scratched off the top layer of paint exposing the armor's metal. But, be careful with the brush. If you over saturate the brush you could get pain splatter/drops where you don't want it. Just dip you paint brush lightly into the paint and go slowly.

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If you look at the thigh pieces you can get the sense that there are separated sections of armor that make of the thigh armor as a whole. You can do this by using the same technique as the edges on the chest and re-drawiing the black lines to give the separated look. I still have to do the bottom section of the thighs, but I have to tape off the finished areas to they don't get messed up when I spray the metallic paint.

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[Echo4Delta]

The shin pieces. Remember I painted them two toned? Silver on top and nickel on the bottom.

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[Echo4Delta]

Okay, weathering some more! I simply purchased some cheap black poster paint that is water-based. So, if you mess-up you can simply wipe off with a damp towel/napkin.

Using a small paint brush I applied a generous amount in the creases where natural dirt buildup could occur. Here are some before and after pictures to show the areas...

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Also, you can put it directly on high shine areas (like the knee guards) to show wear/weathering.

[Echo4Delta]

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Here are the shin and chest sections and the overall look so far. The gauntlets and hand guards are still left to paint and Those pesky pouches.

[Echo4Delta]

Purchased some gloves from Walmart in the men's section. But, they are leather/poly fabric that I could paint with metallic sharpies to give it a metallic/sci-fi look.

Note: In the last picture you can see where I added silver paint to the stitched areas for highlighted effect.

I tried and tried to find some inexpensive brown leather gloves/gauntlets but the closest I could find were for motorcycle users for $25. These were $11.

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[Echo4Delta]

Again, I simply used layers to paint the guantlets and weathered them using black poster paint and wiped it off with a dry and then damp paper towel.

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[Echo4Delta]

The hand guards I just accented with silver and added weathering. Here is what it'll look like when it all comes together...

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I realized that I would have a easier time to just add a buckle to the back of the gauntlet so I could put on the glove and then the gauntlet. I simply used the exacto knife and cut a small slit into the gauntlet. I then ran the strap into the buckle and then into the slit I cut and glued it down on the inside of the gauntlet as seen in the photos.

[Echo4Delta]

Okay, remember that cloak? Yea, I finished it. I simply sewed the seams together and added a hood. Well, perhaps not 'simple' Took me hours to figure out how to set the sewing machine up. And that was WITH instructions! I suggest looking for a cloak on Amazon or online if you're weary about sewing. So, after that I couldn't help myself from doing a test fit and took some photos.

Note: I am trying to go the easy route and purchased some compass pouches online and they are still in the mail and I still have to put in the LEDs and center piece (on the chest). Also, the thigh pieces like to fall down and the forearm guards want to rotate in their own direction. So, I have some industrial strength Velcro and I plan on using it to keep things stuck where they are suppose to.

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[Sevinzol]

I used to build SCA Armor which is based off historical armor. Here are a couple suggestions. Hang the leg plates (cuisses (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuisses)) from straps attached to a belt (fastex buckles will look good) . Make sure the straps are in line (on your sides) with your hip join. Secure the straps so they don't shift to the front, otherwise the plates will slide up and down with each step. If things still droop then try attaching suspenders to the belt. For the armguards (vambraces), it Looks like you need a second strap at the wrist. Remember that your wrist is oval, not round. If you can stiffen up the lower part of the guard in that shape, then it should twist with your wrist.

[Echo4Delta]

I used to build SCA Armor which is based off historical armor. Here are a couple suggestions. Hang the leg plates (cuisses (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuisses)) from straps attached to a belt (fastex buckles will look good) . Make sure the straps are in line (on your sides) with your hip join. Secure the straps so they don't shift to the front, otherwise the plates will slide up and down with each step. If things still droop then try attaching suspenders to the belt. For the armguards (vambraces), it Looks like you need a second strap at the wrist. Remember that your wrist is oval, not round. If you can stiffen up the lower part of the guard in that shape, then it should twist with your wrist.

Yea, I've done the thigh pieces like that with my Iron Patriot armor. I'm gonna try the Velcro first because they feel like they fit perfectly before they slide down. Nice and tight, so I'm hoping it'll turn out well. Regarding the strap, I thought of that too. I will try to add the Velcro to the top of the glove and the underside of the vambrances' at the wrist and one at the top where it meets the forearm. If successful, I will photo document and post. Thanks for the help!

[Echo4Delta]

Now, this is a bit advanced for costuming, but considering its on a forum that deals with a lot of electronics...

Let there be light...

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[Echo4Delta]

Ebay purchased pouches. Military-spec compass pouch...

They were too big so, I just glued the edges as shown below...

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[Echo4Delta]

99% Done! Just need a few teaks on the boots and wiring and that's about it. Hope you all took away something form this 'tutorial'. Hit me up with messages if you have questions. Thanks for checking this out.

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[Ty_Bomber]

This was an etremely satisfying thread to watch. Love the green accents in the saber to go with the armor. It really was masterfully done.

Royal blue blade, yes? I don't recall what electronics setup you used.

[Starwinder]

Really awesome work!

[Echo4Delta]

This was an etremely satisfying thread to watch. Love the green accents in the saber to go with the armor. It really was masterfully done.

Royal blue blade, yes? I don't recall what electronics setup you used.

Yes, royal blue with Nano Biscotte and Blue ring momentary

[Echo4Delta]

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[Ty_Bomber]

Awesome pics man. That blade looks good too, even under direct lighting.

[cardcollector]

Great job, and as starting one of these myself, the pics are encouraging.

Question- though I may have missed it. What do you use for your inner body suit? Having trouble finding materials for that.

[Echo4Delta]

Great job, and as starting one of these myself, the pics are encouraging.

Question- though I may have missed it. What do you use for your inner body suit? Having trouble finding materials for that.

http://www.zentai-zentai.com/dark-brown-morph-body-suit-full-body-uni***-lycra-zentai-suits-products-495.html#.U0SIj1dNsbo