Help with saber planning/concept

[Wilbur]

I am working on planning my first lightsaber and am having a hard time putting together a functional concept that I find appealing. What I am wanting to do is build a saber between 9 and 10 inches long with sound (probably a NB) and in-hilt recharge, that doesn't look like a plain tube?You know, some curves ;) yet relatively simple and functional. I feel a problem I seem to be running into with a smaller saber like this is internal space and the useable area the part threads take up. In addition, despite looking around, Im not quite understanding the Nano Biscotte's LED driving capabilities. Using the NB, will the LED dim as the battery runs out of juice? Thank you for your input and I appreciate any other info that may help.

[Yoshi-Taka]

Heck yes, design questions! Finally, my time to shine!
I've found Choke 3 is great for adding curves. The Main Body parts are a good way to add detail with little work. In tandem, they make 9.5" before the pommel and blade holder. The pommels can be short and if you use a choke, the blade holder will feel more like an extension of the blade.

If you use Speaker Mount 4, it can slide right into most (if not all) pommels and save a ton of grief. The 7" main bodies can house the NB, a battery, switch, and recharge port (the latter two are made easier if you use an activator box like box 9). The tricky part of cram-fu is using only as much wire as you need, even less if you use JSTs like I do. The chassis discs will protect the NB and battery while stacking them on top of each other, saving even more space.
It's all about customization and there's very little you can't with the MHS system. Measuring components and knowing internal dimensions will save you a lot of time, money, and stress.

I can't answer your last question, as I've never gone that long before recharging my saber.

[Wilbur]

Thank you so much for the input Yoshi! I do plan on doing a chassis and probably using box #9. Though I used the word "curves", the word texture may have been more appropriate. Stuff the breaks up the super uniform cylinder shape like shrouds, or chokes, or varying diameters. Greeblies so to speak. Stuff that makes it look more believably like a lightsaber and less like a flashlight. Ill include some MHS build photos to give some idea of what I've been tinkering with.

BTW that is a good point about the whole charging thing. I guess I never really thought of it like that. Any other input on the NB?


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[Yoshi-Taka]

If you dig through my threads [shameless plug], you'll see some ideas of what the MHS system can grant you. Or just go through the Gallery forum for ideas and use what looks cool.
I have lots of input on the NB, but I'll restrict it to this - zomg best board evar. Really though, I absolutely love it and would be more than happy to use it exclusively forever and ever and ever.

As for your designs, don't forget to use the "Internal View" option. The inner diameters (or, ID) of parts is crucial for determining what parts you can use, where you can use them, and where in the hilt itself you're going to jam all the electronics. At the end of the day, most sabers are going to look like just fancy tubes. But to me, the most important thing is functionality and if it's comfortable to handle for your dueling style (assuming that's what you're building these things for), that's what matters. Style comes second, if you ask me.

[WookieeGunner]

I've also been looking at doing a short saber. Somethings I've found. Most of your blade holders are 2 inches, though the shortest is 1.69 inches (holder #19). Also, rumor is that you can put a NB under your switches.

One thing I've thought about doing is using Choke 3 Long as the base of the handle with a 3" extension between it and the blade holder for the control box. Use the low profile heat sink so you don't have it butting up against the switch. Haven't gotten the parts together to verify this, but it works in theory.

Another thing to make sue you look at is the Trim Rings. They aren't recomended for between the blade holder and it's connector piece and the pommel and its connector piece (if you are using speaker mount 5) but help to break up the "tube". You can find them here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Adapters-Misc-C55.aspx

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I've also been looking at doing a short saber. Somethings I've found. Most of your blade holders are 2 inches, though the shortest is 1.69 inches (holder #19). Also, rumor is that you can put a NB under your switches.

One thing I've thought about doing is using Choke 3 Long as the base of the handle with a 3" extension between it and the blade holder for the control box. Use the low profile heat sink so you don't have it butting up against the switch. Haven't gotten the parts together to verify this, but it works in theory.

Another thing to make sue you look at is the Trim Rings. They aren't recomended for between the blade holder and it's connector piece and the pommel and its connector piece (if you are using speaker mount 5) but help to break up the "tube". You can find them here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Adapters-Misc-C55.aspx

@WookieGunner: Ummm, yeah... sticking an NB under AV switches isn't a good idea for several reasons.

Your using the long choke and a 3" extension will work, if you use the right box (A/V + one other item), and try not to stick too much stuff in there.

@Wilbur: The LED should dim a little as near the end of the charge and then everything will just die out on you. The battery should give out an even discharge until it really can't and the PCB gets tripped. ;)

As far as designs go... GENERALLY SPEAKING - typical hilts tend to run anywhere from 10-12" range. If you stick around in the hobby and progress, the more advanced boards allow you to do more advanced things (provided your skills can keep up). There are MANY things that can break up the "Super Uniform" cylinder. Though sometimes the super uniform cylinder isn't a bad thing. One of my more recent build is mainly a super uniform cylinder. Most of my other builds aren't.

[Wilbur]

At the end of the day, most sabers are going to look like just fancy tubes. But to me, the most important thing is functionality and if it's comfortable to handle for your dueling style (assuming that's what you're building these things for), that's what matters. Style comes second, if you ask me.

I actually plan for it to be more of a display/cosplay piece, though I did actually take some fencing classes in high school. I checked out your sabers and out of what I saw I believe the one you named "Vinyl" struck a chord with me. Relatively sleek and simplistic with a little texture to give the saber some personality

[Yoshi-Taka]

Ahh, Vinyl. That saber was the forerunner for ever saber I've built since. I wish I could build her again.. then again, Luna is basically the same saber too.....

If you're just make static and stunt hilts, you can afford to go a bit crazier on design than a saber with sound. Bear in mind, though, that you'll eventually want to add sound or make the saber practical for dueling. I used to think I'd be satisfied with just a stunt saber.. and then I successfully finished a saber with sound and the rest is history. I think the best way to come up with a design is to have a purpose in mind (cosplay, dueling, etc), and just go nuts in the MHS builder. That's how I've done ever saber for the past two years. Of course, you'll notice most of my sabers have wound up having a sort of style they all share but mostly because I'm extremely biased toward my personal dueling styles (Makashi and Soresu). None the less.. play around, see what you like. It's your saber, after all, so yours is the only opinion that matters on it....... well, other than the obvious advice others will give in terms of granting you enough space to work with.

Personally, I recommend starting with a large hilt (like... 13-14 inches total) and getting used to the cram-fu. That's how I started and my sabers now average about 11-12 inches, I think. But I have big hands..