Another "Check my parts" request thread

[IcyPhoenix]

Morning, late this year, early next year I am going to order a saber for a friend of mine and I need help getting the rest of the parts lined out, and the electronics squared away. So far this is what I have, what am I missing and what other ideas/recommendations would you make? Also, I won't be putting the saber together, another friend who has built several will build it, I'm just ordering the parts.

Hilt Style 2
MPS Pommel st. 8
MHS choke style 3
MPS insert 12
Blade holder 17

Luxeon Tri-Rebal star
Luxeon 18deg Tri Rebel star lens
Star thermal tape pad

MWS Guarded style latching
BuckPuck 700 mA 6-wire


Thank you for your help,

[Silver Serpent]

You'll want the MPS clip http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx to hold your pommel insert in place.

What type of battery pack are you intending to use as a power solution?
Also, which color Tri-Rebel are you getting? Depending on your color, it may be better for you to use the 1000mA buckpuck.

[IcyPhoenix]

You'll want the MPS clip http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx to hold your pommel insert in place.

What type of battery pack are you intending to use as a power solution?
Also, which color Tri-Rebel are you getting? Depending on your color, it may be better for you to use the 1000mA buckpuck.

Battery pack, I was thinking just a dual AA pack, with the NiMH rechargeable batteries.

The color would be the Red/Blue/Green, and would there be any way to change the color of the blade without re-wiring the saber?

[Silver Serpent]

Buckpucks require a minimum of 5v to operate correctly. 2x NiMH will only give you 2.4v, which will not be enough to run the buckpuck. A 2x li-ion pack will give you 7.4v.

The red die of the Tri-Rebel should be run at 700mA. The green and blue run best at 1000mA, although they'll work at 700mA.

I've wired up a Tri-Rebel with all three dice in parallel, each with their own switch and resistor. I can flip the individual dice on and off to suit my mood. It's certainly possible, but it can take up a sizable amount of room in your hilt if you have large switches. My setup would not work with a buckpuck, but it does with resistors.

So long as you're only running a single color at a time, you could install JST connectors on each of the 3 LED dice, and a single one to the buckpuck output. You'd then switch between the different JSTs to swap colors. It would entail opening the saber each time, but it would work with the buckpuck.

[IcyPhoenix]

Slight change of plan, instead of the Luxeon Tri-Rebel star, I will be going with the Luxeon Rebel Star - straight green using the module kit provided.

[Silver Serpent]

That's simple enough. You can use a single li-ion battery with no resistor (or a 1 ohm 2 watt resistor if you don't feel safe without one) and the saber will light up just fine. No need for a buckpuck. 3x NiMH would also do the job, but they'll take up a good deal more room for less runtime.

You could also use a battery pack of 5v or more and the 1000mA buckpuck. That would be a minimum of 4 alkaline, 5 NiMH, or 2 li-ion batteries.