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james3
10-18-2006, 10:44 AM
Well, I think my son's blade has taken it's toll with scratches and such so I started sanding the whole blade to get the frosted thing going on. I have been using 1000 grit and it has been working ok but I still have not gotten it the way I like, If any of you guys have seen Tet's beadblasted stuff y'all know what I talkin' about. Anyway, has anyone else played around with this? Have you used different grits? Do you add film? I am still trying to get a little more even look out of this thing.

What say you?

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/FrostedBlade002800x600.jpghttp://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/FrostedBlade003a.jpghttp://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/FrostedBlade004a.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/FrostedBlade008a.jpg

I just realized that he stilll has the old batteries in there too so I will throw some new ones in and see what I get.

Jedi Ranger
10-18-2006, 11:24 AM
I use window frosting spray. MUCH easier to get even, and WAY faster to do. Sure, it can scratch and wear off, but all it needs is a respray.

Firebird21
10-18-2006, 02:04 PM
I used Black Beauty on the inside.

The problem with doing anything to the outside is that as soon as you hit something, you F-up the texture. The inside doesn't get hit with anything.


Even after sandblasting I had to use Tim's defusor to get an evenly lit blade, otherwise it was real bright at the base and no light at the top.

james3
10-18-2006, 02:21 PM
What is black beauty? and how do you put it on the inside?

I have not had any problems with messing up the texture since I already did that by sanding the crap out of it.http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrinbounce.gif

I have thought of adding some film or something, I didn't like the standard diffuser in there to much, I think it was doing to much with both maybe it was just me.

I admit I am having fun with this but I personally still like the standard TCSS blade look better, more even across the length.

Firebird21
10-18-2006, 02:36 PM
What is black beauty? and how do you put it on the inside?


It's just a sandblasting medium...

This is the best pic I could find on a not so quick search...


http://www.readyblast.com/readyblast_systems_and_supply_co007011.jpg


It's one of the more abrasive mediums you can use.

Edit:
Here are some pics...
Please forgive the size, I wanted to show detail.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Blue1.jpghttp://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Blue2.jpg

Left: Sandblasted on the inside w/ BB

Right: Tim's stock setup. (with some use)

Lord Maul
10-18-2006, 03:04 PM
great pics firebird
don't know about you guys but i almost like the sandblasted blade better because there is no poly C line. that always kinda buggs me

xwingband
10-18-2006, 03:22 PM
Krylon matte spray... so much easier. Few light coats applied every few minute. That's what I do on my models and how I touched up my recent aquisition of the dual tube. In a sense that's exactly what this does too. It makes the second layer that catches color better.

james3
10-19-2006, 07:04 AM
Krylon matte spray... so much easier. Few light coats applied every few minute. That's what I do on my models and how I touched up my recent aquisition of the dual tube. In a sense that's exactly what this does too. It makes the second layer that catches color better.

You putting that on the outside of the tube?

I was going to give it a try so I am going to run and get some from Home Depot.

Figure WCS is I end up doing some more sanding right? :P

Oh and Firebird, More pics of that blade I like it. And for the new Sig...

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_laugh.gif

xwingband
10-19-2006, 07:14 AM
Yup, on the outside. The key is even and waiting. It's only a few minutes wait though since it's a matte finish. I see it all the time here on models. "Why is my matte spray spotty?"

My responce is always: "How many coats did you use and how long did you wait between coats?" In my experience 3-4 coats is pretty even and looks "frosted".

james3
10-19-2006, 07:24 AM
Yep, multiple light coats work better every time.

I know cause I have done it both ways and the glob it on method never works out as well :wink:

Thanks for that, now if I could just learn how to sew....

Firebird21
10-19-2006, 12:56 PM
What other pics do you want James?

It's not a complete blade, I lost the mirror for the tip, and I was waiting for my next order to get a sholdered tip w/ the reflective tape.

Those pics are a very good representation of what it looks like. Even down to the grain in the Blasted Blade.

DACOTA
10-23-2006, 09:36 AM
can anyone tell me what grit of sandpaper to use or maybe steel wool :?: ,and do you think i should do this to a darth maul fx,ya think it would look good.if so i'll do it.i rather use sandpaper though.

james3
10-23-2006, 10:14 AM
Did you not read the very first friggin post?

987654321a
10-23-2006, 02:53 PM
why not just use a normal diffuser? yea, its really hard and confusing.....

Yoiaholic
10-23-2006, 03:04 PM
If you are using a 3/4 inch led blade I recommend you do NOT frost it. I've had pretty poor results with one that was beadblasted compared to my others. It is MUCH brighter if only corbin's film is used.

987654321a
10-23-2006, 03:06 PM
hey yoia would using a 3 degree lens work perfectly in a 3/4" blade saber?

james3
10-23-2006, 03:22 PM
Countdown using a standard diffuser is fine unless your scratches are on the OUTSIDE. My boys blade has been used non stop for close to a year. It had a diffuser in it. It was time to play.

Just sanding gave good but not great results. Sanding and adding some of xwings matte has certainly help smooth it out a bit more. The blade looks nice with the extra width IMHO, I like the little Corbin style coring thing going on too but it isnt quite as detailed.

All in all, it is neat, I plan on trying some other things as well, like I said it's play time. I will keep puting up pics as long as the dang camera keeps working which is not certain.

Yoi, I too had an old 3/4" blade that I had blasted and it sucked for LEDs. I am willing to stay open minded on your setup since the pics have been very nice but all of my experience with 3/4" has not been favorable.

Also, a 3 degree or 5 dgreee is not going to make any difference in what we do. The blade diameter really does not change that.

987654321a
10-23-2006, 04:17 PM
yea but i thought that the tighter the beam, the more evenly lit the blade would be

james3
10-23-2006, 04:38 PM
It just doesnt matter for what we do. Like Ultra said several months ago, it makes a big difference when you use these as flashlights. :wink:

987654321a
10-23-2006, 04:39 PM
i guess.

Yoiaholic
10-23-2006, 11:19 PM
Not to nit pick James, but I think countdown is right for the 3/4 inch blade. The issue is that you lose a ton of light before you get to the tip with the smaller ID. With a 10 degree lens any blades longer than 36 inches are MUCH dimmer at the tip (not the dark spot) of the blade.

I tried a 5 degree lens and had better results with the narrower tube. Its like this count, if you don't want to go out of your way to get a 3 degree lens then the 5 degree is fine. If you can get the 3 degree its the way to go.

james3
10-24-2006, 04:49 AM
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_confused3.gif 10 Degree??? When did that come in to play? http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_crazyjump.gif

Now I'm confused Yoi, I thought we were talking 3's and 5's. http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_drunk.gif

Seriously, sorry if I wasn't clear on that. When I did my 3/4" blade tests a while back I noticed that a 10 degree did have some issues. I figure that 5's are in pretty much everyones toolbox ready to go and I am not sure that 2 degrees difference is going to be noticeable. Sounds like I need to give it a try. http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_3stooges.gif

DACOTA
10-24-2006, 03:55 PM
Did you not read the very first friggin post?

yes. i did but i asked a question, thank you very much :x

so should i do this to a mr darth maul or not :?: give your opinion or :idea: [whatever]

Ryma Mara
11-21-2006, 12:09 PM
What about that window etching stuff.

Thay make a kit where I think its a liquid type thing, what about diping the tube in that?

james3
11-21-2006, 12:26 PM
I think that works on glass.

Might be worth a try though.

Anyway, I used it with the 800-1000 sanded on the outside and used just a slight wrap of film inside. That is what you see when the boy has his Jedi costume and yellow blade. It was very nice and even with a tad of Corbin's core.

I am actually working on another blade and will throw that up when I get done. Other things of course have been a priority over that with the group we are going to have here in the next few days.

987654321a
11-21-2006, 12:54 PM
jeeze i tried sanding the outside as i dont have a dowel to put sandpaper on it and sand the inside but im such a retard that i could have kept my blade new and just used some cellophane from michaels or something, the diffuser broke just so you know. now my blade is worthless and all scratched up

james3
11-21-2006, 01:00 PM
What grit did ya use? It isnt worthless buddy, I have had some great effects with just sanded blades minus the diffuser.

Firebird21
11-21-2006, 06:30 PM
(This is the right Topic :wink: )

Here's a trick that may help you out a bit...


Disclaimer: I have not tried this myself. I just dreamt it up.



Get a dowel (whatever size will fit inside your power drill)

Take a piece of sand paper and cut it to 2”x4” ish.

Staple one 2” end of the sand paper to one end of the dowel and wrap the rest of it loosely around the dowel.

Put the other side of the dowel into the drill.

Insert the dowel into the PolyC and pull the trigger. The loose end should sand the inside of the tube for you. If it doesn’t seem to provide enough pressure, cut the paper longer. (2x6 or something)

Move the dowel up and down the tube slowly to get an even pattern.


If the dowel seems too long to work with you can always cut it in half and sand half the tube and switch to the other end to finish it.

Ryma Mara
11-22-2006, 09:51 AM
I would use body work sand paper that has the stickey adheasive side. that way your not gonna have a staple groving in the blade.

Dregan
11-22-2006, 10:45 AM
The staple would be covered by the next layer (or three) of sandpaper, thereby preventing a groove. It's a good idea. I think I might try it.

I would not use adhesive-backer sand paper, as you're most likely going to be sticking this on a dowel rod, it won't adhere that well, and fall off. (not enough smooth surface aread to stick to on the rod)

Ryma Mara
11-22-2006, 10:48 AM
they actually got a fair amout of stick to them, eather that or you can just glue them to the dowel or something, but I would be weary of putting something metallike a staple inside there when you have no control of the staple not rubbing thru things.

Even if its a one in a million chance of it happening I wouldent want to take that chance.

I have bad luck as it is anyway lol

Firebird21
11-22-2006, 09:36 PM
You're trying to scratch the inside of the blade. That's what sandpaper does.
Even if the staple does hit the blade I doubt it would be noticeable. Even so, wrapping enough paper on it to cover it in a couple layers of paper should protect it.

Swordlord
01-19-2009, 10:33 AM
Has anyone tried the following(?):

1 - Remove the tip and inner diffuser/wrap
2 - Plug the tip-end securely (cork, old tip, tape, etc)
3 - Fill the tube 1/3-full with small-grit playground sand
4 - Plug the large end securely, as with the tip-end
5 - Shake, rattle & roll (like a rain stick) until the inside is evenly abraded

It doesn't take very long, the abrasion is even and it's a helluva good tension release (especially if done while listening to favorite music).
Oh! It's also cheap.

*Edit* Remind self to check last-posting dates before replying...:oops:

DragonStar
01-19-2009, 12:54 PM
That's okay, it was worth it for your rain stick sandblasting trick!