ronyim
10-20-2013, 05:22 AM
Hi Folks,
Well, this is my first attempt and incidentally my first post, so here goes...
First build: Double bladed tonfa with Hasbro sound card
I plan to use 2 blade holders, 1 hilt and 1 set of tonfa handle parts. I'll be using a Force Action Obi sound card as well.
MHS body:
Screw on LED blade holder style 12
Hilt Style 1
Tonfa pommel style 1
Tonfa handle style 1
Tonfa MHS adapter
MHS Blank Holder Style 2
1) Would the MHS parts all fit together?
Blade holder style 2 will be used as pommel. I plan to mount the tonfa handle to the pommel.
Hilt mounts and custom services from blade holder to pommel:
1 x Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) hole for blade retention on blade holder style 12
1 x 8-32 x 1/8" Set screw
2 x Drill & Tap Hole (M6x0.75 (accent LED's) on Hilt Style 1
2 x accent lights Dimensions: .56"L x .34"W x .25"H (2 x accent leds on the hilt, to the left, perpendicular to the av switch if feasible. Ideally forward most recessed av switch should be between the 2 accent leds.)
2 x Machine recessed AV switch hole (2 holes near the front and on top.)
1 x 16mm Anti Vandal (short) Latching Red Ring Switch (for speaker)
1 x 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Green Ring Switch (Main on/off switch)
Tonfa pommel style 1 has a recessed hole for guarded switch.
1 x 2.1mm Power Jack (kill switch on tonfa pommel)
3 x Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) on MHS Blade Holder Style 2
2 holes for tonfa (1 to hold it, 1 for electrical cables kill switch)
1 hole for blade retention
1 x 8-32 x 1/2" button head screw (to mount the Tonfa MHS adapter)
1 x 8-32 x 1/8" Set screw (blade retention)
2) Can I place a 2.1mm power jack at the tonfa pommel hole? Do I need any minor modifications ie use a washer/disk to mount the jack into the hole?
3) Is there sufficient space to squeeze in a 3rd recessed av switch? Would 3 av switches and 2 accent LEDs fit on the first 3" of the handle leaving about 3.5" to 4" for electronics?
4) Would a SPST Latching Guarded switch with silver button work as a kill switch?
Electronics:
I'll be using a Force Action Obi sound card, a 7805 5v regulator and a 5V relay.
I'll be getting the following:
1 x MHS speaker and 2 x AA battery holder (3.7v 14500)
2 x Seoul P4 white LED & MHS Heatsink Module
1 x BuckPuck 1000mA 6-wire driving the 2 p4
2 to 3 x 270ohm 1/4w resistor (av switch LEDs, connect to battery pack)
2 x 150ohm 1/4w resistor (Accent LEDs from sound card off the 5v regulator)
The general setup:
Batterys -> Power Jacks -> split to regulator and buckpuck
From 5v regulator -> sound card
Sound card powers speakers, accent LEDs, main LED routes to relay triggering the buckpuck
Buckpuck gets inputs from relay, triggering flashes and shimmers to the P4s. All negative power lines are common back to 5v regulator
5) Do I need capacitors for the 5v regulator? 100mF 25v from positive battery to input, 10mf 25v from regulator ground and .1 mf from the 5v leg to sound card?
6) I'm currently testing the sound card with 4 x AA 1.5v and would probably have to switch to 14500s to save space. The battery holder itself is 4". Which MHS part should I consider using if I need more room for electronics? I'd rather stick with the 1.5v as they have higher mAh, thus longer runtime.
Blades:
1 x LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
1 x Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tip with reflective disc
2 x 12 Colored Discs
I'll be cutting the blade into 6" for the pommel and 24" for the front with a bit extra just in case.
So what do you think? Did I miss out any parts or overlook a design/schematics item? How can this be improved?
43" of lightsaber should be pretty badass!
Thanks for reading and commenting!
Well, this is my first attempt and incidentally my first post, so here goes...
First build: Double bladed tonfa with Hasbro sound card
I plan to use 2 blade holders, 1 hilt and 1 set of tonfa handle parts. I'll be using a Force Action Obi sound card as well.
MHS body:
Screw on LED blade holder style 12
Hilt Style 1
Tonfa pommel style 1
Tonfa handle style 1
Tonfa MHS adapter
MHS Blank Holder Style 2
1) Would the MHS parts all fit together?
Blade holder style 2 will be used as pommel. I plan to mount the tonfa handle to the pommel.
Hilt mounts and custom services from blade holder to pommel:
1 x Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) hole for blade retention on blade holder style 12
1 x 8-32 x 1/8" Set screw
2 x Drill & Tap Hole (M6x0.75 (accent LED's) on Hilt Style 1
2 x accent lights Dimensions: .56"L x .34"W x .25"H (2 x accent leds on the hilt, to the left, perpendicular to the av switch if feasible. Ideally forward most recessed av switch should be between the 2 accent leds.)
2 x Machine recessed AV switch hole (2 holes near the front and on top.)
1 x 16mm Anti Vandal (short) Latching Red Ring Switch (for speaker)
1 x 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Green Ring Switch (Main on/off switch)
Tonfa pommel style 1 has a recessed hole for guarded switch.
1 x 2.1mm Power Jack (kill switch on tonfa pommel)
3 x Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) on MHS Blade Holder Style 2
2 holes for tonfa (1 to hold it, 1 for electrical cables kill switch)
1 hole for blade retention
1 x 8-32 x 1/2" button head screw (to mount the Tonfa MHS adapter)
1 x 8-32 x 1/8" Set screw (blade retention)
2) Can I place a 2.1mm power jack at the tonfa pommel hole? Do I need any minor modifications ie use a washer/disk to mount the jack into the hole?
3) Is there sufficient space to squeeze in a 3rd recessed av switch? Would 3 av switches and 2 accent LEDs fit on the first 3" of the handle leaving about 3.5" to 4" for electronics?
4) Would a SPST Latching Guarded switch with silver button work as a kill switch?
Electronics:
I'll be using a Force Action Obi sound card, a 7805 5v regulator and a 5V relay.
I'll be getting the following:
1 x MHS speaker and 2 x AA battery holder (3.7v 14500)
2 x Seoul P4 white LED & MHS Heatsink Module
1 x BuckPuck 1000mA 6-wire driving the 2 p4
2 to 3 x 270ohm 1/4w resistor (av switch LEDs, connect to battery pack)
2 x 150ohm 1/4w resistor (Accent LEDs from sound card off the 5v regulator)
The general setup:
Batterys -> Power Jacks -> split to regulator and buckpuck
From 5v regulator -> sound card
Sound card powers speakers, accent LEDs, main LED routes to relay triggering the buckpuck
Buckpuck gets inputs from relay, triggering flashes and shimmers to the P4s. All negative power lines are common back to 5v regulator
5) Do I need capacitors for the 5v regulator? 100mF 25v from positive battery to input, 10mf 25v from regulator ground and .1 mf from the 5v leg to sound card?
6) I'm currently testing the sound card with 4 x AA 1.5v and would probably have to switch to 14500s to save space. The battery holder itself is 4". Which MHS part should I consider using if I need more room for electronics? I'd rather stick with the 1.5v as they have higher mAh, thus longer runtime.
Blades:
1 x LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
1 x Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tip with reflective disc
2 x 12 Colored Discs
I'll be cutting the blade into 6" for the pommel and 24" for the front with a bit extra just in case.
So what do you think? Did I miss out any parts or overlook a design/schematics item? How can this be improved?
43" of lightsaber should be pretty badass!
Thanks for reading and commenting!