Custom made LED holder

[Sills]

Hi
Has anyone made an LED holder, and if so could they give me a few pointers?

Basically I have an Ultrasabers Manticore blade holder, which as part of my build I want to attach to a MHS ribbed section. At the top of the ribbed section where it meets the blade holder I want to install a small activation switch like Madcows Genesis sabers, so any of the pre made modules will be unusable.

I am thinking of installing it in a .75 male/female adaptor.

Any and all advise will be appreciated as always.

Thanks

[Ty_Bomber]

Hi Sills,

I wouldn't recommend a .75" extension, as you can see in the following pic, it is almost all threads, and could ruin the part if you decide to drill into it:

http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x444/HeroofEverything/manti_zps6e4e13f0.png (http://s1182.photobucket.com/user/HeroofEverything/media/manti_zps6e4e13f0.png.html)

You could possibly mount the switches directly in the ribbed extension below the threads, as pictured here:

http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x444/HeroofEverything/manti2_zps3b34759d.png (http://s1182.photobucket.com/user/HeroofEverything/media/manti2_zps3b34759d.png.html)

You would need something to mount the switches, of course, so I recommend the MHS switch rings from force relics. You can use the standard momentary switches available from TCSS, and the light from the LED should back light them nicely. You can also find illuminated tactile switches to go with the rings, but I won't link it here.

Switch rings can be found here: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=37936.msg517527#msg517527, though you may need to modify the standard MHS rings, as the ribbed extension has a slightly smaller inner diameter.

Hope that helps.

[Sills]

Thanks for your advise TY, I had already clocked the Force Relics switch ring, I can get them in the UK fron JQ Sabers, just trying to work out how to marry up the body and emitter as CSS LED's are secured in the emitter and US in the body, so I believe.

I am thinking about buying one of the new style heat sinks and removing the lip, then securing it inside the body via a small screw, that's were the .75 was going to come in.

Might be easier to bore out the emitter a little to take the CSS heat sink.